Fruit trees

Planting and care for cherries in spring, summer and autumn

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Planting cherries is easy, but in order for the tree to grow strong, healthy and give a rich harvest, you need to properly care for it. The care of cherries in the spring is very important, and it consists of several stages that will ensure the correct development of the tree and obtaining an excellent harvest.

Planting cherry

First of all, it is necessary to determine the place where the tree will grow. Cherry is demanding of sunlight, so you need to choose a well-lit area on an elevation, protected from the cold wind. The tree does not tolerate the transplant, so you need to be very responsible when choosing a place for it.

Planted cherry in April, until the buds are full. Light loamy or medium loamy soil is preferred. To begin with, a planting pit is prepared, the optimum depth of which is 40-45 cm, diameter - 50-60 cm. A peg is placed in the middle on which the tree will rest. In the center an elevation is made of the soil mixed with fertilizers (humus, superphosphate - 30-40 g, potassium chloride - 20-30 g and 1 kg of ash). The seedling is installed strictly vertically in the pit, sprinkled with earth and compacted. Around the tree you need to make a hole for watering and pour into it two or three buckets of heated water. The land around the seedling is mulched with humus or sawdust.

If there is still a need to transplant the tree, then cherry transplanting in the spring will be the most successful option, because over the summer the seedling will have time to get used to a new place and get well acclimatized.

Many gardeners are interested in the question of how to feed the cherry in the spring to add strength to the tree and get a good harvest?

The first dressing produced before flowering. Effective use of ammonium nitrate or urea, which must be applied to the soil in liquid form. Spraying does not bring much benefit, since it turns out that the branches are processed, and not the leaves, through which the trace elements are absorbed.

During the flowering period, top dressing is carried out by the root method using nitrogen-containing compounds. You can also use green manure or chicken manure. In order not to harm the root system, you must try not to exaggerate the dose of chicken manure.

After the cherry blossoms, fertilizing is done with organic matter: manure, compost or special organic mixtures. This ensures high-quality harvest.

Pest control

Caring for cherries in spring includes pest and disease control, which are activated at this time of year. Serious damage to your tree can cause cherry aphid, cherry moth, weevil, slimy sawfly.

The first processing of cherries in spring is made in late March or early April, until sap flow begins. Thus, all pests that survived the frost in the ground or in the tree are destroyed. In the shops you can find a lot of effective and safe means of pest control, the main thing is to follow the instructions in order not to cause harm to the tree.

Treatment of cherries in the spring for the prevention of fungal diseases is performed using copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. Means are safe for both people and fruits.

Whitewashing the trunk

In the spring, dry grass and garbage are harvested around the trees, and the soil is carefully dug up so as not to damage the cherry roots.

Care for cherries in the spring is not without whitewash. This procedure is necessary to protect the tree trunk from parasites, rodents and excessive exposure to sunlight. In addition, the whitewash prevents cracking of the bark during temperature changes, creating a protective film on the surface. It should be remembered that young plants that have smooth bark should not be whitened, since gas exchange is disturbed in the pores filled with whitewash, which hinders the normal development of the plant.

Spring whitewashing is done before the arrival of heat and the appearance of pests. It is best to do this in mid-March or early April. You can not whiten the trees in cloudy or rainy weather. Before whitewashing it is necessary to inspect the trunk of the cherry tree, clean off the old bark and moss from it. You can not use knives and brushes for this, so as not to damage the bark of the tree. Existing damage is smeared with garden pitch, after which the barrel is whitened using a spray gun or a wide brush.

Cherry pruning

Such care for cherries in the spring is necessary for the proper formation of the tree, increasing yields, improving the taste of berries. In addition, pruning is an additional protection of the cherry from pests and prevents the spread of disease. Cut all dried and damaged branches or pests. For convenience, when harvesting, pruned and branches that grow too high. In addition, the dried bark is also removed.

Cherry pruning rules

  • Pruning cherries should be done the next year after planting, this ensures the correct formation of the crown and prevents its thickening.
  • It is necessary to cut off all the branches that grow inward.
  • The young shoots appearing on the trunk must be broken off in the summer or cut off in the spring of the following year.
  • The pruning procedure is done before the kidneys swell. Removed dry and damaged shoots. After that, it is necessary to cover every wound with garden pitch.
  • Bush varieties need pruning for branches longer than 50 cm.
  • To form the correct form of the crown, as the tree grows, side shoots are left on the main trunk. An adult tree should have about 15 branches.
  • When pruning old cherries, do not remove too many branches at a time.

Pruning a young tree

The scheme of cutting the cherry in the spring is as follows: 4-5 developed branches should be left, removing the remaining growths and smearing the wounds. The branches that remain should be located at a distance of ten centimeters from each other and look in different directions. In the future, it is necessary to monitor the correct formation of the crown. Shoots that go inside must be removed. It is necessary to carefully trim the sapling to avoid yields in the future.

Pruning adult tree

The pruning of an adult bush cherry is made in order to rejuvenate a tree and increase its productivity. This procedure is performed when fruiting is reduced. The scheme of cutting the cherry in the spring is as follows: they reduce the number of branches and shorten them by a third or half the length of the shoot. In addition, it is necessary to remove skeletal and semi-skeletal branches, but not in one year for the tree to bear fruit. It is not necessary to make the removal of annual increments.

In the old tree cherry need to slightly shorten the annual shoots. This rejuvenation is necessary when the skeletal branches become bare at the base and the growth of shoots slows down (less than 15 cm per year).

When pruning old trees, it is necessary to remember that it is not recommended to immediately get rid of a large number of branches, rejuvenation should be carried out in stages, over several years.

Cherry is not a capricious plant. But to get a good harvest, you need proper care for cherries in the spring, as well as throughout the year.

Cherry tree - description

Shrub or tree with gray-brown bark in height can reach ten meters. It has petioled, pointed, elliptical leaves up to eight centimeters long. On top of the leaf plates are dark green, and their lower part is lighter. Depending on the region in which the cherry is grown, it can bloom in March, April, May or even in June. It has umbellate inflorescences, which form two or three pink or white buds. In summer, sweet-sour, juicy, spherical drupes mature on the site of faded flowers.

Whitewash booster

This procedure will protect the tree from pests.who have wintered in his bark. Whitewashing will not allow insects to get out, which, with the onset of heat, reach the surface, multiply and spread throughout the site.

Before whitewashing, you need to carefully inspect the trunk and, if any moves are found on it, treat it with insecticidal preparations. After this shtamb can whiten.

Cherry treatment for diseases and pests

In spring, pests, all kinds of viruses and fungi, which can not only harm, but also destroy the plant, renew their vital functions. Therefore, as a preventive measure, shrubs are treated with special solutions. Such treatments are carried out several times:

  1. Before blooming the kidneys, the drug Chorus 75 WG or Aktara 25 WG is used. Solutions of them will protect the plants from monilial burn, cedar, aphid, weevil.
  2. During the budding period, trees are sprayed with a solution prepared from a mixture of Horus and Angio preparations.
  3. Insecticidal drugs will help against the cherry fly. You can use "Aktelekom" processing which is carried out ten days after flowering.
  4. Trees affected by coccomycosis are sprayed with Topaz 100 EC, Hom or Teldor.

In the spring, it is imperative to carry out all the treatments listed, otherwise trees will be attacked by pests, and be affected by various fungi or viruses. This will affect the yield of cherries and the growth of the plant as a whole.

How to care for cherries in summer?

In hot weather, fruit trees should be watered abundantly.. At a time you need to use this amount of water to soak the soil about forty centimeters.

The first watering is done after flowering. At the same time, the trees feed up. The second time the plants are watered at a time when the berries are poured. If the weather is hot and there is no rain, then one bush may need up to six buckets of water.

In summer, when caring for cherries, it is necessary to take care of the tree circle, removing weeds regularly. After this, the soil must be loosened, so that air can flow to the roots.

After part of the ovary has subsided, you need to feed planting nitrogen fertilizers. A month later, potash and phosphate fertilizers are applied.

During the period of fruit growth, it is recommended to treat trees with the preparations “Fufanon” and “Copper Oxychloride”. The first will protect plants from pests, and the second from diseases.

In the middle or end of June, fruits ripen in early varieties of cherries. You can pick berries from mid-season varieties by the end of July. And in August and September, the fruits will ripen on cherries of late varieties.

Cherry care in the fall

As the leaves turn yellow in the trees, the soil around pristvolny circles is dug up, and at the same time mineral and organic fertilizers are introduced. Around the fruit-bearing bushes, digging is done to a depth of twenty centimeters, and around young plants - to a depth of ten centimeters.

At the same time, podzimny irrigation and preventive treatment of diseases and pests are carried out. In the autumn, the plants should be watered so that the soil is soaked to a depth of seventy centimeters.

In October you need whitewash the trees and spread them around the bait with the poison from the rodents. When the soil is frozen, pristvolny circles are cleaned from the fallen leaves and sprinkled with peat. The trunks of young plants are wrapped with spruce branches.

Cherry reproduction

Most often, gardeners use cuttings for breeding cherries, which are cut from trees in the second half of June. From three to five years of bush, upward and well-developed shoots are selected. They need to be sprayed with water and cut off the top with immature leaves. The branch is cut into pieces with a length of ten to fifteen centimeters. Each shoot must have from six to eight leaves. The lower section should be located a centimeter below the node, and the upper one immediately below the kidney.

For rooting cuttings tanks with a depth of ten to twelve centimeters are being prepared. From the bottom they should have small drainage holes. The boxes are filled with a mixture of coarse sand and peat (1: 1). The soil is first watered with a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then with plain water.

The lower leaves are removed from the cuttings, after which the segments are stuck into the ground to a depth of two to three centimeters. The distance between the cuttings should be about eight centimeters.

For better rooting a wire frame covered with film is installed on the container. A greenhouse will be obtained, in which the moisture necessary for the formation of roots will be maintained.

Rooting cuttings should be in a well-lit place, but without direct sunlight. An indicator that the lengths of the root were turgor restored on leaves. At this time, the plants will need to be accustomed to the open air. In the autumn, the cuttings should be prikopat in the garden on a temporary bed, and in the spring to plant in a permanent place.

When growing cherry in the garden It is very important to follow all the rules of care. Timely watering, timely feeding and treating trees from pests and diseases will guarantee a good harvest.

Care of young and old trees

When starting to care for cherries in spring, it is necessary to take into account several key points: the age of the planted tree, the state of the plant, and the weather conditions. Young trees, after planting in the spring, require minimal maintenance, enough good watering on hot days (4-5 buckets of water in May or June), preventive measures against diseases and pests.

After planting and before collecting the first berries, young cherries are an excellent feeder for harmful bugs and insects. Thin bark is not able to fully protect young saplings from mites and aphids. It is necessary to provide full and proper care in the spring and summer days, to protect the young growth by all available methods (well, whiten the stem, spray it with copper sulphate emulsion or bordeaux liquid).

For the preparation of a solution of vitriol it is necessary to dilute 3 tablespoons of the drug in 10 liters of water. Fighting with aphids, loving young succulent shoots, is helped by spraying Phytoverm (2 ml of product per liter of water), Inta-vir (tablet on a bucket of water), from the popular methods used tobacco infusion.

When caring for old cherry trees, you need to constantly clean, burn dead bark, whiten, rejuvenate pruning. Mature trees can begin to start shoots close-standing shoots, this fact indicates an elderly cherry. With the growth rate of the undergrowth at the base of the trunk, the viability of the tree is shortened. Cut dry, diseased, damaged branches, remove shoots.

Works in spring, summer and autumn

Young cherries need to be looked after from the moment of planting, it is necessary to mulch the near-stem space with compost, rotted sawdust. Mulch helps to retain moisture, prevents the formation of earth crust, improves the access of oxygen to the roots.

In the first two years, fertilizers are not applied if the cherries were fertilized at the time of landing on a permanent place. With a bad increase (less than 0.3 meters) in the fall, feed the cherries with superphosphate. Young planted trees need periodic loosening (in the absence of mulch), removal of weeds, watering.

With the onset of the ability of the cherry to bear fruit, tree care changes. In the active period of growth of branches, flowering, fruiting it is necessary to water the cherry, watering is carried out at the rate of 3-4 buckets per plant. In late September, water recharge irrigation is performed (5-6 buckets of water per tree). In the rainy summer, the cherries do not irrigate, in the fall they give only necessary supplements (phosphorus-potassium).

Many gardeners are concerned about the question, how to feed the cherries in the spring, if the plant is an adult? The first dressing is carried out in early spring before the onset of flowering, using calcium nitrate (2 tablespoons) or urea (50-70 grams), dispersed in a pristvolnom circle and loosen. Fertilization promotes active growth of trees, good flowering.

During the flowering period, cherries are fed with mineral compounds containing nitrogen. At this point, you can apply organic fertilizers (cow dung, bird droppings). Cherry care after flowering (after 7-10 days) involves spraying with urea (40 grams per 10 liters of water), after 14 days the procedure is repeated. Non-root spraying improves plant nutrition, positively affects the safety of ovaries before the berries finally ripen.

After harvesting, in the summer, treatment is carried out against pests and the spread of disease. In the summer of particular danger is coccomycosis, you can resist the disease by treating cherry trees with Bordeaux mixture (1% solution), with strong development, spraying is repeated after 21 days. The final spraying is carried out in early September. The gardeners' summer task is to preserve foliage in the trees for good wintering.

Preparing cherries for winter begins in the fall, you need to prune, feed, implement preventive measures. Pruned cherry trees should be at rest, but before the arrival of frost. В зависимости от региональной принадлежности, временной интервал начинается со второй половины сентября и заканчивается в конце ноября. Удаляются больные, поврежденные, сухие ветви, места срезов тщательно замазываются садовым варом. Учитывайте, войлочная вишня имеет свои особенности обрезки ветвей.

Осенью все ранки, трещины зачищаются и обрабатываются. Приствольный круг очищается от опавшего мусора, рыхлится. It is necessary to feed the cherry for the winter, fertilizers based on phosphorus and potassium are applied, nitrogen fertilizers are not used in the autumn period. A good additional protection from rodents in the winter time is whitewashing trunks (you can add clay or mullein to the lime).

If you know how to care for cherries, a wonderful tree will surely please its owners in the future season: in spring a beautiful snow-white garden will be filled with wonderful aroma, in summer - with a tasty harvest of beautiful berries.

Adding an article to a new collection

Autumn cherry care comes down to a few important rules. We will talk about them in our article.

Cherry is a reliable, cold-resistant, drought-resistant crop, but this does not mean that it does not require care. During the summer season, be sure to fight diseases and pests, water the trees in a drought, feed them. Cherry requires care and in the autumn period, for this next year it will bestow a good harvest on you, will delight you with lush flowering and elegant green foliage.

Rule 1. Dig the soil in pristvolnom circle

Remember how in the summer we took care of the area near the trunk? Loosened the soil, removed the weeds? In the autumn, you need to sum up a peculiar result - dig the soil to a depth of 15-17 cm (but not deeper, otherwise you can damage the roots) and properly loosen the ground with a rake. If in the process of digging you find parts of the rhizomes of weeds, then be sure to remove them.

Loosening the soil in a circle is an important component of care.

Rule 2. Water the trees well.

Conduct water recharge irrigation of cherries can be immediately after dug up and loosened the soil around the trunk. Such a preliminary tillage will allow moisture to penetrate deep into the ground, and, as you know, wet earth freezes through much more slowly than dry.

But in order to wet the soil as deeply as possible, at least two buckets of water should be poured under each tree. It is desirable to use water a few degrees warmer than the air temperature on the day of irrigation. In order to prevent irrigation water from spreading over the area, the zone of the circle of the trunk circle can be limited to a trench with a depth of 10-12 cm.

Rule 3. Feed the cherries

It is desirable to combine fertilization in the autumn period with irrigation. So they quickly fall into the soil to the horse system. Well, if you have time to feed the cherries at the very beginning of autumn, because later the tree will literally hibernate and take advantage of fertilizers only in early spring, which, in essence, is not bad either.

What to use as autumn fertilizer? Anything. The main thing is that there is no nitrogen in the top dressing, which can activate growth processes and reduce the winter resistance of the plant. If there is compost, you can use it (for trees from 1 to 7 years old - 1.5-2 kg per 1 square meter of tree trunks, for trees over 7 years old - 2.5-3 kg), mineral fertilizers will also work. Ideal - phosphorus plus potassium (for young trees - 2 tablespoons superphosphate and 1 tablespoon potassium chloride per 1 sq. M, for fruit-bearing ones - 3 tablespoons superphosphate and 1.5 tablespoons potassium chloride. ).

A rich harvest is not obtained without the correct supplements.

Rule 4. Get organized in the garden

Preventive measures in the garden are obligatory, especially for cherries, which have many pests and diseases. You should not be limited to one thing, it is better to do the maximum amount of work - cut off diseased, broken and damaged shoots and cover up the cut areas with garden pitch, cover up or clean up all the cracks on the bark, as well as wounds from which the gum flowed during the season, remove foliage, fallen fruits and leaves (even if they are behind the limb).

Cherry is processed immediately after the first frost. The best option is to spray a 4-5% urea solution. Despite the fact that this nitrogen fertilizer, getting into the soil, it will not wake the trees, but will bring them considerable benefit by destroying wintering pests and pathogens.

Rule 5. Insulate and whitewash

Everyone knows that cherry is a winter-hardy culture, but it is still worth protecting it from surprises. And there are different surprises: the climate in the middle lane is so changeable that even before the snow falls, it can unexpectedly hit the frost, and for young trees this almost always means that the fabrics will freeze.

Therefore, shtaby 2-4-year-old cherries should be wrapped with sacking, newspapers, tied with spruce fur twigs or any other breathable material. It is advisable to wrap the base of the trunk with a plastic net that will protect it from rodents.

The trunks of adult trees should be whitened. Whitewashing will not only protect the bark from the harmful effects of the scorching sun in winter, but also scare off rodents, especially if you add iron sulphate to it. The main thing is not to whitewash the stumps too soon, otherwise the autumn rains will wash away all the whitewash.

Whitewashing will protect the cherries from the sun and rodents

Do not neglect these simple rules. After all, a few hours spent on autumnal care will help the cherry trees to move through the winter with minimal losses.

Fertilizers and watering cherries

If the increase is weak, then in the fall it is necessary to add superphosphate. It is necessary to periodically loosen the soil, remove weeds and water the trees. At the beginning of fruiting care is required different. Increase the number and volume of irrigation. In the summer - 3-4 buckets, but at the beginning of autumn they carry out moisture-charging irrigation (5-6 buckets). With an abundance of rain, it is not necessary to water, it is only necessary to add fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus.

There are some questions about the correctness of prikormok adult trees in the spring season. First make minerals before flowering - urea is buried dry in the soil around the trunk. This will increase the activity of flowering. Nitrogen is added during the flowering period. A mullein or chicken litter will do. A week later, sprayed with urea, and after two weeks, repeated. Foliar nutrition will help keep the ovary.

How to help cherry grow

  1. Sunny plot. Graft trees require a large amount of carbohydrates formed in the leaves at the stages of photosynthesis under the rays of the sun. They should fall from the morning hours to the middle of the day, but it’s very good if it continues until the evening.
  2. Limestone in the ground. In past years, it was believed that all that was needed for this tree was a mullein. It makes the soil less acidic, and calcium in its composition helps cherry blossom in cold climates. And nowadays application of manure gives a good harvest. In the absence of the mullein add lime, scattering it in the area of ​​the tree trunk.
  3. Pollination. The ovaries of these trees come from the pollen of a tree of a different sort, but it is not always possible to know which one. It is advised to find old cherries in the wilderness and take shoots from them. The greater the number of seedlings planted, the greater the chance to guess the pollinator.

Interesting advice - when planting a seedling in the hole put pieces of concrete. And they do not plant deep, as cherries do not like soaking the root collar or freezing it.

Baits should be soft, for example, humus from grass. It is brought to a small depth. Fertilizers should also not give an acidic reaction.

Cherry neighbors

Cherries prefer to grow plants that have a beneficial effect on it - rose, calendula, raspberry, strawberry, grapes. These species are planted near the tree instead of weeds.

You can also plant crops that are not harmful, but are not particularly useful - lilac, corn, beets, cucumbers, lettuce. Not advised to plant a number of apples, tulips, parsley.

As for pruning, gardeners rarely carry out this procedure. Places of sections overgrown for a long time, and infection can penetrate into the tree. Typically, pruning begins at the age of 20 for rejuvenation. But the cut must be sure to cover the garden pitch.

Content

  • 1. Listen to the article (soon)
  • 2. Description
  • 3. Landing
    • 3.1. When to plant
    • 3.2. Planting in the fall
    • 3.3. How to plant in spring
  • 4. Care
    • 4.1. Spring care
    • 4.2. Summer care
    • 4.3. Autumn care
    • 4.4. Treatment
    • 4.5. Watering
    • 4.6. Top dressing
    • 4.7. Wintering
  • 5. Trimming
    • 5.1. When to trim
    • 5.2. How to trim
    • 5.3. Spring cropping
    • 5.4. Pruning in the fall
  • 6. Reproduction
    • 6.1. How to multiply
    • 6.2. Seed propagation
    • 6.3. Graft
    • 6.4. Reproduction green cuttings
    • 6.5. Reproduction root shoots
  • 7. Diseases
  • 8. Pests
  • 9. How to deal with cherry
  • 10. Grades

Planting and care for cherries (in short)

  • Landing: in spring, when the soil has already warmed up, but the buds on the trees have not yet opened.
  • Bloom: depending on the variety from the end of April to the end of May.
  • Lighting: bright sunshine.
  • The soil: sandy, sandy or loamy, neutral reaction, in the area where the groundwater lies deep and the water does not stagnate.
  • Watering: during the season 3-4 times: after flowering, during the formation of ovaries, after harvesting and in autumn, until October 20.
  • Top dressing: 3 root dressings in spring: 1st — before flowering with liquid nitrogen fertilizer, 2nd — during flowering with herbal “tea” or chicken litter solution (1:10), 3rd — after flowering with compost or other organic mixtures. In the summer, they conduct two foliar nutrition with nitrogen-containing preparations: in the middle of July and 3 weeks later. Cherry is processed by leaves and solutions of missing microelements. After fruiting, nitrogen-containing organic fertilizers are applied. In the fall, the soil in the wheel circle is saturated with full mineral fertilizer, and in the winter - only with potassium and phosphorus.
  • Pruning: in spring, in March, before the start of sap flow, and in autumn, at the end of the growing season. Sometimes in the summer, after completion of fruiting.
  • Breeding: seeds, cuttings, root processes, inoculation.
  • Pests: plum moth, cherry and bird-cherry weevil, slimy, social and pale-footed sawflies, subcortical moths, cherry aphids, haws.
  • Diseases: brown spotting, blooms, cherries and mosaic ringing, dying off of branches, scab, fruit rot, coccomycosis, moniliosis, root cancer, gem treatment and witches broom.

When to plant a cherry

Cherry is planted in the spring, and it gives the seedling enough time to take root and grow. Cherry blossoms are planted when the soil is already warm enough, but the buds have not yet opened. Based on these requirements, the best time to plant a cherry is mid-April, and the most appropriate time of day is after sunset.

Cherry in the fall after planting is unlikely to have time to take root before the onset of cold weather, because you can not know in advance exactly when the autumn frosts come. Therefore, the best seedlings harvested from the fall prikopat until spring.

How to plant a cherry in spring.

When planning to plant cherries in the spring, it is better to purchase saplings in the fall, and then store them until spring, as just described. When buying, give preference to two-year-old trees with a stem about 60 cm high and a stem diameter of 2-2.5 cm. It is desirable that the skeletal branches of the cherry should also be not shorter than 60 cm. Before planting, inspect the roots of the seedling, and if you find damaged or rotted areas, cut them to healthy tissue and treat the wounds with crushed charcoal. Hold the plant's roots for 3-4 hours in the water before planting so that they can smooth themselves and get saturated with moisture.

Soil on the plot for the cherry, too, is prepared in the fall. Cherries like places well lit by the sun, drained sandy, sandy or loamy soil of a neutral reaction. You can not plant cherries in places where ground water is close to the ground, or in lowlands where melted water stagnates in spring. If the soil is acidic, scatter dolomite flour or lime over it at the rate of 400 g per m² and dig the area to the depth of the spade's bayonet. Do not add organic matter simultaneously with lime; add compost or rotted manure to the soil at the rate of 15 kg per m² a week later than you have added a deoxidizer.

In the case of planting several trees they are located at a distance of 3 m from each other. If your seedlings are cross-pollinated, you will have to plant at least four varieties in close proximity to each other, placing them according to the 3x3 m scheme, if the varieties are tall, and 2.5-2 m, if the cherries are low. Self-pollinated varieties of cherries do not need pollinators.

The landing pit should be about 80 cm in diameter and 50-60 cm deep. The upper, fertile soil layer should be removed and mixed with humus in equal amounts, while adding 1 kg of ash, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of chloride to the soil mix. potassium. In the clay soil make more and a bucket of sand. Beat a high peg into the center of the pit so that it protrudes 30-40 cm above the surface of the site. Place a soil mixture with fertilizer on the bottom around the peg with a cone, put a seedling on the hill from the north side of the peg so that the root neck of the tree is 2- 3 cm above surface level. Straighten the roots of the plant and, adding a small amount of soil to the pit, tamp it down so that there are no voids left in the ground. After planting, make a hole around the sapling at a distance of 25-30 cm with a roller of earth, pour a bucket of water into the hole, and after it has been absorbed and the root collar is level with the surface of the plot, mutilate the trunk circle with peat, sawdust or humus, and tie the seedling to the peg.

Cherry care in the summer.

In summer, the main task of the gardener is to ensure the nutritional and moisture requirements of fruit trees, as well as protection from pests, weeds and diseases. Do not forget to water the trees, especially in the very heat. Cherry in the summer drops part of the ovaries, and as soon as this happens, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizers for cherries, and in 3-4 weeks to feed the fruiting trees with phosphorus and potassium.

In the summer it is time to harvest the cherry. Early varieties ripen by mid-end of June, mid-ripening - by the end of July, and late cherry ripens in August and even in September. Cherry is harvested as the fruit ripens.

Processing cherries.

In the spring, before bud break, it is best to treat the cherry with a seven percent urea solution, which will destroy the pests that overwinter in the bark or in the soil under the tree, and feed the cherry with nitrogen in one. However, if you do not have time to do this before the start of sap flow, then it is better to process the cherries with a three percent solution of copper sulphate or Bordeaux liquids, since urea can cause burns of buds. Two weeks later, when the daytime temperature rises to 18 ºC, treat trees and shrubs from ticks and other overwintered insects, as well as from powdery mildew with colloidal sulfur or Neoron in accordance with the instructions.

In the summer, during the growth of fruits as a preventive measure, cherries are treated for pests by Fufanon, and for diseases with copper oxychloride.

In the autumn, before the beginning of leaf fall, spray the trees with a 4% solution of urea, both as a disease control and as a last dressing.

Watering cherries.

Watering cherries is carried out in such a quantity of water that the soil in the near-ground circle is wetted to a depth of 40-45 cm, however, the soil should not sour. The first time the cherry is watered after flowering, simultaneously with top dressing. The second watering is needed during the filling of berries. From 3 to 6 buckets of water are poured under each tree - the exact amount depends on the weather and the presence or absence of rain during this period. In October, when the leaves fall, cherries are satisfied with podzimny water-recharge irrigation, the purpose of which is to moisten the soil to a depth of 70-80 cm. The podzimny irrigation feeds the soil with moisture, which the roots will need to acquire winter hardiness, and the wet soil freezes more slowly.

Young, still non-bearing trees are watered every 2 weeks, and in extreme heat - weekly.

Top dressing cherries.

Organic fertilizers feed the cherries once every two or three years in the autumn, bringing them under the digging. At the same time, the site is fertilized with mineral fertilizers - potash and phosphorus in the amount of 25-30 g of superphosphate and 20-25 g of potassium sulfate per m². Nitrogen fertilizers are applied at the rate of 15-20 g of ammonium nitrate or 10-15 g of urea per m² plot twice a year - in early spring and after the flowering of the cherries. It is important that fertilizers are not applied to the near-stem circle of each plant, but throughout the whole area with cherry trees. Before fertilizing the cherry, the site is watered.

In addition to fertilizing the soil, it is possible to conduct foliar top dressing of cherries with a solution of 50 g of urea in 10 l of water 2-3 times with an interval of a week in the evening, however, before feeding the cherry, wait for the sunset.

Wintering cherry

An adult, fruiting cherry is able to endure even severe frosts without shelter, and yet it is necessary to protect its roots from freezing. For this purpose, a snowdrift of snow is thrown on the near-trunk area and sprinkled it with sawdust on top. Do not forget to whitewash the trunk and the bases of the skeletal branches in the fall with a solution of lime, adding copper sulfate to it.

Young trees after whitewashing the trunk tied for the winter pine spruce.

When prune cherries.

The first pruning of cherries is made in spring, in March, before the buds swell. If you are late, and the sap flow has already begun, set aside the pruning, otherwise the branches trimmed with shears may dry out. Sometimes cherries are pruned in the summer, immediately after harvest. Autumn pruning is carried out at the end of the growing season. Sanitary pruning, requiring the immediate removal of diseased branches, is carried out at any time of the year.

How to cut a cherry.

Planting and caring for cherry does not cause much difficulty, but here is pruning. Many novice gardeners, as soon as it comes to pruning cherries, panic and prefer to pretend that the tree does not need it. But pruning greatly affects the quality of the crop. Давайте попробуем разобраться в этом действительно сложном вопросе.

With the saplings planted in the current year, everything is simple: they form 5-6 the strongest branches (it is permissible to have up to a dozen developed branches), and the rest are cut out on the ring, leaving no stumps. Sections are treated with garden barb. You need to leave branches directed in different directions and growing from the trunk at a distance of at least 10 cm from each other. From the second year, the formation of a cherry is carried out in this way: branches and shoots growing inside the crown are cut, and shoots appearing on the trunk are also removed. In cherries, tree-growing varieties shorten fast-growing branches, otherwise it will be difficult to harvest from them. In bush-type cherries, shoots are shortened to 50 cm. As the trees grow, new skeletal branches will appear at an approximately equal distance from other branches. As a result, the adult tree should be 12-15. For sanitary purposes, also cut dry, diseased and damaged branches and shoots.

How to propagate cherries.

Cherries are propagated by seeds, cuttings, root processes and grafting. Seed breeding method of cherry is rarely used - this is an occupation for breeders. However, even an amateur gardener can grow cherries from a seed pit, since the rootstocks for grafting are grown in this way. In amateur gardening, cherries are propagated vegetatively, and vaccination is best recommended, a method suitable for all sorts of cherries, while only root-rooted plants can be propagated by root shoots.

Seed propagation of cherry.

Bones of cherry sown in the open ground in the fall. The shoots that appeared in spring are thinned out according to the 20 x 20 scheme and are grown until autumn, taking care of them like young cherries: watering, feeding, loosening the soil around them and removing weeds. Next spring, when the buds begin to swell, they will be ready for replanting a cultural graft.

Grafting a cherry.

How to grow a cherry of one variety, using the root system of another? Inoculation method. But before planting a cherry, it is necessary to grow a stock from a bone of a winter-hardy variety, to which a stalk of a cultivated cherry variety is planted. It is best to use roots of felt cherries that do not form root shoots for growing rootstocks. We have just talked about how to do this. There are several ways of grafting grafting on the stock:

  • - improved copulation,
  • - in the trench,
  • - in the side cut,
  • - under the bark.

Cherry disease

Cherry diseases and pests could be the subject of a separate article. Cherry can be affected by the following diseases: brown spot, clyasporiosis, cherry mosaic and mosaic ringing, branch dying, scab, fruit rot, coccomycosis and moniliosis, root cancer, gem treatment and witch's broom. We will tell you about those diseases that occur most often.

Brown spot it is manifested by the formation of brown, yellowish or reddish spots on the leaves of cherry, with or without a border, on which with the development of the disease appear in the form of black spore points of the fungus. In places of spots the fabric of a sheet plate dries and crumbles, holes are formed. Affected leaves fall. The treatment of cherries from brown spot is carried out by cleaning the tree from diseased foliage, and then the cherry and the soil under it are treated with one-percent Bordeaux liquid in three stages: at the beginning of bud break, immediately after flowering, and two or three weeks after the second treatment.

Klesterosporia, or perforated spotting not only cherry trees are affected, but also other stone trees - sweet cherry, plum, apricot and peach. The signs of the disease are light brown spots up to 5 mm in diameter with a reddish border, which two weeks after the appearance begin to crumble, causing holes to form on the leaves, the leaves dry and fall prematurely. Fruits are covered with depressed purple spots, increasing to 3 mm in diameter and acquiring the appearance of warts, from which gum begins to flow. The branches form cracking bright spots with a dark border, flowing with gum, the kidneys affected by the disease turn black and look like lacquered. The affected branches must be cut down and destroyed, the wounds should be disinfected with a one-percent solution of copper sulphate, and then rubbed with fresh sorrel leaves three times with an interval of 10 minutes, then treated with garden pitch. The tree is sprayed with one percent Bordeaux liquid in three stages as it is done in the treatment of brown spot.

Coccomycosis can be identified by small red dots appearing on cherry leaves that are covered with a pink bloom on the underside of the leaf. Affected leaves turn brown and dry. Especially often the disease affects cherries in areas with a humid climate. The fight against coccomycosis is carried out after the petals of flowers fall off: cherries are sprayed with a solution of 2 g of Horus in 10 liters of water, then the procedure is repeated 3 weeks after flowering and a third time - three weeks after harvesting.

Dying off branches begins with the appearance on the bark of small warty light pink growths, arranged in groups and singly. In addition to cherries, the disease affects the apple tree, currant, cherry, plum and apricot. The diseased cherry branch is to be removed, and the cut is treated with a one-percent solution of copper sulfate, and then covered with garden pitch.

Scab It appears velvety spots of olive-brown color on the fruits and leaves of the cherry. On ripe berries, cracks form, green fruits stop growing and shrink. Since scab is also a fungal disease, it is disposed of by the very Bordeaux fluid in three stages, as described earlier.

Infection monilioz, or gray rot leads to the fact that the cherry dries - the branches and shoots wither, have the appearance of burnt, the fruits rot, on them, like on the bark, gray, small, randomly located growths are formed. This is the only difference between moniliosis and fruit rot, in the disease of which the growths on the berries are arranged in concentric circles. The branches crack, gum flows from them, forming nodules. The cherries are also cured of sulfur and fruit rot by the same Bordeaux liquid, although, as in cases of defeat with other fungal diseases, such preparations as Nitrafen, iron and copper sulphate, Olecoucrit, copper chlorine, Captan, Phtalan and Kuprozan copes well with them.

Gum curing, as a rule, is a sign of various diseases of cherries and is manifested by the release of light, solidified in air, thick resinous substance from cracks in the bark of trees. Most often, cracks appear in the bark of frostbite or sunburned trees, as well as specimens that have perforated spotted spots. If the process is not immediately stopped, the branches from which the gum flows start to dry, and as a result the whole tree may die. The edges of the lesions in the bark must be cleaned with a sharp tool, then the wound should be treated with a solution of 100 mg of oxalic acid in 1 liter of water or soaked with a paste of fresh sorrel, and then covered with damage to the garden pitch.

Witch's broom - A fungus that parasitizes fruit trees and forms a multitude of thin, sterile shoots. The leaves on the diseased trees become pale and slightly reddish, gradually shrink, become brittle and frown. By the end of summer, a gray patina with fungal spores appears on the bottom of the leaf plate. Remove the affected branches, on which thin shoots have formed, and process the tree with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Root cancer - A bacterial disease that causes the appearance of small soft growths on the roots of fruit trees, which with the development of the disease increase to 10 cm in diameter and harden. As a result, the roots become weak, grow poorly on sandy soils, their root growth does not form its roots. It is hardly possible to cure an adult plant, but if you find cancer on a seedling, cut off all the small formations with a formalin solution with a tool and disinfect the roots with a one-percent solution of copper vitriol.

Mosaic disease and mosaic ringing - viral diseases. The mosaic is manifested by the formation of clear yellow stripes and strokes on the leaves, which are located parallel to the veins, and from this the leaves curl, turn red, turn brown and fall prematurely. When the disease is ringed, whitish circles appear on the leaves, at the place of which the sheet plate begins to crumble up to the formation of holes. Unfortunately, viral diseases can not be treated, so you have to destroy the affected plants - uproot and burn.

Cherry pests

Of the pests, the most dangerous for cherries are the plum moth, cherry and bird-cherry weevils, slimy, social and pale-legged sawflies, subcortical moths, cherry aphids and hawthorn.

Plum moth dangerous in the form of a caterpillar, which damages the fruits of cherries, feeding on both the kernels of the seeds and the pulp of the berries. With timely detection of the problem, abundant and thorough processing of cherry and plum trees and areas under them with such preparations as Tsitkor, Ambush, Rovikurt, Anometrin is effective.

Cherry weevil - a bronze-green bug with a raspberry shimmer, emerging from the pupa in the second half of May and feeding on buds, buds, ovaries and cherry leaves. The female beetle, laying its eggs in the shell of the bone, can damage up to two hundred fruits, and the larva that emerges from the egg eats away the nucleus of the seed. Damaged little faces berries peel off. How to handle cherry from cherry weevil? Immediately after the flowering of the cherry, and then again after 10 days, the tree is sprayed with Ambush, Rovikurt or Aktellik at the concentration indicated in the instructions.

Bird cherry weevil - a gray-brown bug that behaves approximately the same as a cherry weevil. He appears at the same time, and the harm from him is the same. And they get rid of this pest with the same preparations as the cherry weevil, but the first treatment must be carried out before flowering, and the second, if needed, is carried out after the cherry has faded. Of these drugs, it is preferable to use Actellic.

Everything sawflies, despite external differences, they eat the leaves of the cherry, sometimes leaving only the skeleton of the veins. With total reproduction, they can destroy up to 70% of the foliage, which will adversely affect the productivity and hardiness of the tree. Sawflies are destroyed immediately after flowering by the same Aktellik or Karbofos.

Subcortical moth lays eggs in June in the cracks of the bark on the shtamba or the branches of the cherry, and the caterpillars hatched from them gnaw through the passages under the bark. In the struggle with the subcortical leaflet, a fifty percent solution of Actellica or a ten percent solution of Karbofos is used, treating the trees during the flight of butterflies.

Hawthorn - large white butterfly. Its caterpillars with a black head and two golden-yellow stripes on the back, reaching 4.5 cm in length, appear from the spider nests in late April or early May. Despite the fact that they are eaten by birds with pleasure, even a small amount of caterpillars can cause significant damage to your garden. In the fight against the hawthorn, good results are obtained by treating trees at the time of the appearance of the caterpillars of Aktellik, Rovikurt, Corsair or Ambush.

Cherry aphid - a small insect causing serious trouble. As a result of its vital activity, young shoots bend and stop growth, leaves curl, blacken and dry, cold resistance is reduced in young trees, and they freeze in winter. In addition, if you have aphids, expect an invasion of ants that feed on aphids. Fight against the pest begin in early spring, to prevent him from breeding. Suitable for processing plants from aphids Karbofos, Aktellik, Rovikurt or Ambush. After spraying the trees with insecticides, regularly inspect the cherries, and if you again find at least a few individuals of aphids, immediately rerun.

How to deal with cherry

Cherries very often produce root shoots, which take away nutrients from the mother tree, and this has a bad effect on fruiting. Wait until the new cherries begin to yield, will have a long time, and the mother cherry in the meantime will wither. To avoid the sad development of events, it is possible to suggest the following ways of dealing with a new growth:

  • - if you want to radically clean the area from cherries, cut down the tree from which the young are growing, drill into the surface of the saw cut holes, pour saltpeter into them and cover the stump with roofing paper. For several months, the stump will rot, and you will have to uproot the growth,
  • - treat the shoots twice within a month with herbicides like Regent, Hurricane, Secateurs, Glyphos or Tornado, and not only the shoots will die in the area, but also the tree from which this shoots come,
  • - if you want to save the tree, you will have to dig up each process to the place where it moves away from the root of the cherry, and cut to the root, leaving no stumps.

We recommend that you gradually get rid of cherries that give shoots, planting instead of them seedlings on seed stocks that do not give shoots. Currently, purchase such seedlings is not a problem. If you are not sure that new cherries will not grow for half a day, dig within 50 cm radius around the seedling to a depth of 50 cm pieces of slate or roofing material, and since the cherries are formed at a depth of 30 cm, this measure can prevent the overgrowth of the garden with cherry plants.

Varieties of cherries for the Moscow region.

Cherry varieties for the Moscow region should have certain properties: increased winter hardiness, resistance to diseases such as coccomycosis, and high yields. Proceeding from this, the best cherry for Moscow region:

  • Lyubskaya - The oldest, high-yielding, self-fertile cherry variety, reaching a height of 2.5 m, which greatly facilitates the harvest. The crown is spreading, the bark is gray-brown, the berries are dark red with sour-sweet pulp,
  • Apukhtinskaya - self-fruited late shrub type cherry up to 3 m high with dark red large berries in the shape of a heart, with a sweet-sour taste and a weak bitterness,
  • Youth - high-yielding winter-hardy variety up to 2.5 m high, bred when crossing varieties Vladimirskaya and Lyubskaya. May have both bush and tree form. The variety is resistant to fungal diseases. The fruits are juicy, dark red, sweet and sour in taste,
  • In memory of Vavilov - self-fertile winter-hardy tall variety with bright red fruits of sweet-sour taste,
  • A toy - high-yielding hybrid between cherry and cherry with bright red fleshy berries of refreshing taste,
  • Turgenevka - popular in the suburbs high-yielding and coccomycosis resistant cherries up to 3 m high with a crown shape in the form of an inverted pyramid. The berries are large, burgundy, heart-shaped, sweet-sour taste. Disadvantage: pollination requires the presence on the site of pollinating varieties such as Molodezhnaya or Lubskaya

In addition to those described, varieties such as Diamond, Generous, Crystal and Shubinka are suitable for cultivation in the climate of the Moscow Region.

Early varieties of cherries.

Of the early varieties of cherries ripening by mid-late June, the most famous are:

  • Oryol early - winter hardy, resistant to coccomycosis with medium-sized red fruits,
  • English early - old variety of English selection, moderately winter-hardy, tall, fruits are dark red, juicy, sweet,
  • Consumer Goods - small cherry with dessert, large, juicy and sweet dark brown fruits with a barely noticeable sourness,
  • Memory Enikeeva - srednerosly samoplodnoe tree up to 3 m high average yield and the fruits of universal purpose,
  • Expectation - high-yielding variety with dark red, almost black fruits, used both fresh and processed in the form of jam, compotes and liqueur,
  • Early dessert - ultra early variety with fruits of yellow-red shade.

Medium varieties of cherries.

From mid-ripening varieties of cherries, the following have proven themselves better than others:

  • Robin - srednerosloe winter-hardy, productive, self-infesting tree with dark-red fruits of sweet-sour taste. Such varieties as Shubinka, Lyubskaya, Vladimirskaya, Bulatnikovskaya are suitable for pollination. The variety is resistant to coccomycosis,
  • Chocolate girl - samoplodny, winter-hardy, drought-resistant undersized variety with dark red fruits,
  • Freezer - medium strong drought-resistant and winter-hardy cherry with bright red sweet dessert fruits. The variety is self-infertile, resistant to coccomycosis,
  • Vladimirskaya - tall, self-sterile cherry with medium-sized, flat-rounded, slightly flattened fruits of dark red color with a sour-sweet taste,
  • Rossoshanskaya black - fruitful, winter-hardy, drought-resistant srednerosly variety with large maroon, almost black fruits of sweet-sour taste,
  • Chernokorka - srednerosloe, winter-hardy, samobozplodnoe tree with almost black sweet fruits, characterized by a barely noticeable sour.

Late varieties of cherries.

The most popular late ripening varieties are:

  • Belle – урожайный морозостойкий сорт со средней величины плодами темно-красного цвета с нежной, сочной мякотью сладко-кислого вкуса,
  • Плодородная Мичурина – урожайный, зимостойкий, среднерослый сорт с раскидистой кроной и среднего размера округлыми блестящими плодами ярко-красного цвета. Недостаток сорта – плохая сопротивляемость грибковым болезням,
  • Норд Стар - self-fertile, low-growing, resistant to fungal diseases, cherries of high winter resistance with dark red fruits,
  • Memory - high-yielding winter-hardy variety with large dark-red berries of sweet-sour taste,
  • Rusinka - bushy self-fertile, high-resistant cherries up to 2 m in height with dark-red, almost black fruits of sweet-sour taste,
  • Erudite - recently bred variety with large dark red berries.

What does complete tree care include?

Caring for cherry trees is easy even for novice gardeners. The main activities that need to be carried out annually in the garden, where cherries and sweet cherries grow, are regular and moderately abundant watering of trees, their pruning and protection from diseases and pests, as well as the removal of weeds and soil nutrients.

In order to achieve good fertility rates, you need to know about the intricacies of care that old and young plants need, as well as the months in which these or other activities are best carried out.

Cherry trees are particularly in need of regular watering in the first years after planting in the country. It is believed that in one season the plant should be watered, on average, 12 times. In doing so, one should be guided by weather conditions and, depending on them, increase or decrease the frequency of irrigation.

After passing the calendar year, the first watering should be done after the tree has flowered, the second - at the time of pouring berries.

The amount of moisture should be such that the soil is moistened to a depth of approximately 40 centimeters. For watering each tree requires about 3 to 6 buckets of water. To determine exactly how many times it is necessary to water the plants, it is necessary to take into account the amount of natural precipitation.

In the autumn, after the leaves fall, podzimny irrigation is carried out, during which the soil is shed to a depth of 80 centimeters. Thanks to this moisture, the root system prepares for successful wintering, and the ground freezes through not as fast as dry.

To harvest a good harvest from a cherry tree, it must be fed regularly. Like other greens in the garden, these plants need mineral and organic fertilizers.

Work begins on fertilizing in early spring, even before flowers bloom on the tree. Urea or calcium nitrate is used as a top dressing. 60 grams of urea or 2 tablespoons of saltpeter are scattered over the entire surface of the stem, then the soil is loosened. Such procedures are correct and favorable for growth and flowering.

When the flowers appear, it is time to apply nitrogen and organic fertilizers, for example, bird droppings or cow manure. After completion of flowering cherries can be sprayed with urea. To do this, 40 grams diluted in 10 liters of water. Such spraying helps preserve the ovaries and improve the nutrition of the trees.

Pruning helps to make cherry growth more intense. The first time this procedure is carried out after the swollen buds appear on the tree. If you miss this point, it is better to cancel pruning at all, so as not to injure the plant. In the spring, first of all, the removal of frozen shoots is performed. After it should be cut.

Shoots that are less than 40 centimeters in length do not need pruning. In order for the crown not to be too thick, it is enough to eliminate the competing branches, and also to get rid of the shoots directed vertically. Kronoform pruning can be carried out in the summer months, after picking berries.

Pest Control

Cherries, like most other members of the Pink family, are prone to many diseases. Most often, the tree affects fungal and bacterial diseases. Therefore, care involves the regular use of insecticidal and fungicidal preparations.

The basic rules for the prevention of cherry diseases are:

  • whitewashing trunks in the spring,
  • several treatments for protection against diseases during the season,
  • compliance with sanitary standards.

Seasonal nuances

For cherry trees care must be taken, starting from the moment of planting. At the same time during the season the nature of the work varies. Each period has its own subtleties.

The cherry care activities carried out in the spring help to get a rich harvest. During this period, trees are pruned, getting rid of:

  • dried or frozen branches,
  • too long shoots
  • damaged by pests and diseases of parts.

In March, the trunks of the cherry must be whitened, and the wounds on the bark should be treated with copper sulphate. This provides protection against parasites and bark damage.

In the circle of the trunk should remove the dried grass, dig the ground so that the root system receives oxygen. And, finally, the mandatory point of spring care is fertilization.

The peculiarities of summer care are connected with the fact that berries ripen at this time, gardeners harvest. The trees of the early varieties bear fruit in June, other representatives of the species are pleased with the harvest in July. In the same month and in August, the time of the highest sun activity begins. Therefore, plants have an increased need for moisture. They must be regularly irrigated.

In addition, for the prevention of drying of the soil, gardeners resort to mulching. This prevents the evaporation of moisture, and also prevents infection by various diseases and pests.

Autumn is the time when cherries need to be prepared for wintering. Caring for her is pruning and feeding, disease prevention.

You can prune before the onset of the first frost. But only after the tree enters a period of rest. It aims to remove dry or diseased shoots. All cuts, cracks and wounds should be treated. The soil in the wheel circle must be cleaned and loosened. During these events, it can be enriched with potash and phosphate fertilizers. To protect against rodents, the trunks can be whitened.

For young seedlings

In the first year after planting, saplings need careful watering. During the hot months, each cherry needs 5-6 buckets of water. In addition, plants need protection from pests. Their bark is very thin, it cannot serve as reliable protection from harmful insects.

In order to prevent the spring and summer cherries should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulphate.

Fruiting cherry

In order to get rich harvests of berries from a fruiting tree, during the period of their formation one should adhere to the following care tips:

  • in a rainy spring, spray a cherry with a solution of water and honey - this will help attract insects to the garden area,
  • in a drought, it is necessary to provide the cherry with plenty of moisture,
  • monitor soil acidity in order to preserve the ovary,
  • after the end of the harvest, at the end of September, pour over the cherry plentifully, pouring 8-10 buckets of water into the tree trunk,
  • in the fall should be applied potash and phosphate fertilizers,
  • it is also necessary to monitor the condition of the crown, thinning it from time to time,
  • during the growing season to prevent the reproduction of pests.

Collecting a harvest from a fruiting cherry, it is worth remembering that the picked berries do not ripen and remain sour and tasteless.

Old tree

Caring for old cherry trees includes cleansing, burning dead bark, whitewashing and pruning branches. Age of cherry gives the appearance of coppice shoots. The more they grow, the lower the plant's vitality becomes. This growth must be removed regularly. Diseased, dried and damaged branches should also be disposed of.

How to prepare a tree for winter

Cherry refers to frost-resistant plants. Nevertheless, protection from frost, in most regions, is necessary for it. Prepare for winter is necessary in advance. To this end, in autumn, the ground around the trunk can be covered with straw or sawdust. This will protect the root system from freezing. The pre-winter strait of soil serves the same purpose. After it, the soil is mulched with peat or manure.

Experienced gardeners recommend, in anticipation of the winter cold, "wrap" the trunks of young cherries with pine spruce branches.

The cuts and wounds remaining after pruning should be treated with garden pitch. And to protect the trunks can be used woven materials. This prevents rodents and other animals from damaging the bark. Knowledge of the basic rules of care and their timely use will allow you to enjoy pinkish hats of flowering cherries in your own garden in spring and the harvest of fragrant berries in summer.

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