Potted flowers and plants

Diseases of orchids and their treatment


Phalaenopsis - unpretentious plants that with proper care will never get sick. Otherwise, fungi, bacteria, insects can hit the flower.

If the symptoms of a lesion are not detected in time, the flower will begin to grow poorly, develop, stop its flowering. In the most difficult situations, the plant dies.

What are the signs of the most common diseases of orchids? How to treat and prevent their reappearance - read on.

Features of the plant

All phalaenopsis are elifits. They grow in nature on large trees, stumps of plants as a support. The flower has one stem, no branching. Its height reaches 10-100 cm. Orchid leaves grow slowly, like the stem. For the year may appear only a few green leaves. They are formed during the flowering period. It lasts 3 months. First, upper buds bloom, while lower ones are still forming.

How are diseases different from pest damage?

Each of them has its own symptoms, allowing them to be distinguished from pests. Most often, when a disease is affected by a flower, the leaves darken almost instantly, dry out and disappear. And when insects visited the plant, the whole process takes place gradually: the leaves become stained, slowly fade and only then disappear. This allows the grower to react in time and save the flower.

The most common in the flower

The most common diseases of phalaenopsis include:

  1. Rot. Various factors can affect it. The main of them remains high humidity. If there are black soft spots on the stem or on the base, they indicate the presence of rot. All affected areas are carefully cut off and then treated with charcoal. Plant transplanted to a new soil.
  2. Mealy dew. This disease is characterized by the appearance on the leaves of white plaque. It is a fungal disease that slowly kills a plant. Affected plant pour a solution of colloidal sulfur.
  3. Bacterial spots. This disease is easy to recognize. Dark spots are formed on the leaves. Over time, they dry and the leaves are covered with wounds. To solve the problem, cut off the affected areas and powder with activated carbon powder. If after a while the spots appear again, then you will need to purchase special preparations.

How to determine what happened?

The difficulty in making a correct diagnosis is that some external signs are similar to the symptoms of the influence of pests. So that To make a final diagnosis, you must carefully examine the flower.

If not only the symptoms of a lesion were detected on it, but also insects, then most likely, they are the cause of the problem. In addition, you need to know the main symptoms of common orchid diseases. Then it will be possible to understand for sure, it is a pest or a disease.

Characterization of problems, photo and treatment

View photos of each disease and its description.

This is a fungal disease that is formed due to high humidity and stagnant water. As a result, burns form on the leaves of the plant.

To combat the disease, it is necessary to remove all the affected areas to healthy tissue.and then powder them with ashes. If the lesion is massive, then the plant will have to fully process the drugs Mikosan. Orchid set in a dry place and constantly drain the water from the pan.

The main cause of the development of the disease is care errors. The lesion is applied to the leaves of the plant.

To combat the disease, cut off the diseased areas, sprinkle the areas cut with activated carbon powder. For disinfection, you can use a 20% alcohol solution. If the lesion is too extensive, apply Mikosan, Skor or Ridomil.

Mealy dew

High humidity and temperature can affect this disease. Recognize the disease can be whitish on the leaves.

When detecting the first signs, carefully water the orchid, and after 2 hours process the solution with colloidal sulfur using a spray bottle. You can also use herbal medicine. They spray leaves 3-4 times with an interval of 10 days.

You can use folk remedies, for example, soap and soda solution. To prepare it, take 25 g of soda, 5 g of liquid soap, 5 liters of hot water. First, dissolve the soda in water, and only then add soap. As soon as the solution has cooled, spray it once every 7-10 days.

Black (black) mushrooms

This disease affects the leaves of orchids, which become sticky. The resulting black coating does not allow the leaves to receive sunlight in the required amount, so that the plant weakens.

For treatment use the drug Mikosan, Ridomil, Topsin-M, Skor. Folk remedies are powerless here.

It is one of the most common. The first manifestations of the disease are observed 12 hours after the lesion. Most often young sprouts suffer. They become black and covered with a sticky bloom.

The transmission of a harmful fungus occurs through contact, so that the treatment is difficult. The essence of it is that you need to remove the affected areas, and cut off the cuts with cinnamon or sulfur. After they dry up, they are treated with a fungicide.

Watch a video on how to cure Phalaenopsis from a fungal infection on the neck:

This is a bacterial disease that is formed at high humidity and temperature. The orchids begin to darken and rot roots. The leaves at the same time acquire a specific brown shade.

Resuscitation of the roots should be started by treating the plant with a fungicide solution and removing the affected areas. Processing is exposed and soil. To do this, use Fundazole or Topsin. Processing is carried out at least 3 times with an interval of 2 weeks.

We told about the treatment of this root disease, take a look at how this problem looks in the photo:

it the disease is the result of violation of the rules of care. With the development of gray rot spots appear on the flowers. They are dark in color, and then covered with gray bloom.

The treatment boils down to removing the affected areas and treating the fungicides. If after the first treatment there is no positive result, then it is impossible to use a similar drug, since the gray rot pathogen has acquired resistance to it.

How to save?

Here is a detailed plan of how to reanimate the orchid yourself:

  1. Rinse the roots, remove the affected.
  2. Prepare a container, pour claydite to the bottom, and carefully peat steamed and peeled sphagnum on top.
  3. Moisten the mixture well.
  4. Lay a sheet rosette and until the plant has a root length of 3-5 cm, it should be kept under cover.
  5. For orchid resuscitation it is necessary to observe the following conditions: temperature 22-28 degrees, humidity - 70-100%. Lighting should be 12-14 hours a day.

Preventing the appearance

In order for the orchid to bloom and please with bright colors for a long time, and the disease never hit her, the florist will have to observe the following preventive measures:

  • Lighting. The plant wants to be in a place where there are dissected sunlight. In winter, you can extend the duration of daylight using spectral lamps.
  • Temperature. For an orchid, temperature values ​​of 25–30 degrees in summer and 20–25 degrees in winter are considered optimal.
  • Air. Ventilate Phalaenopsis regularly, but avoid drafts.
  • Humidity. It should be between 60-80%. To increase it, it is necessary to place a container with water near the pot with a flower.
  • Watering. Perform moisturizing only after the bark is completely dry. To do this, set the pot in a container with water for half an hour. This time is enough for phalaenopsis to absorb the required amount of liquid.

Phalaenopsis is a type of orchid that, when fully maintained, is disease resistant. But you should not relax. The color grower should regularly inspect the plant, and in case of deviations, immediately begin treatment.

Phalaenopsis orchid: diseases, care

Hybrids of tropical beauty specially bred for cultivation in room conditions. Observation of daytime temperatures ranging from 20 to 24 degrees Celsius, night temperatures from 15 to 18 degrees Celsius will be required. Often the conditions of the room do not allow to observe this parameter exactly. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a difference between day and night temperatures, which should be at least two or three degrees. Sufficient air humidity is 50 - 70%. Place the plants on the windowsills of any light, protected from drafts and access to cold air.

Particular attention is paid to the ground. Choosing the wrong one can lead to orchid disease. As a soil, use a special composition:

  • bark substrate - 3 parts,
  • sphagnum - 2 parts,
  • charcoal - one part.

Orchid plant pots should provide good soil aeration. It is better to use special transparent plastic pots designed for growing these plants. Proper watering will prevent diseases of domestic orchids.

With particular attention to plant feeding. Excess fertilization can lead to orchid disease. At home, after the acquisition of the plant will require minimal feeding. An oversupply of fertilizers can cause the plant to not bloom, and the leaves can dull and break.

Phalaenopsis Orchid: Diseases and Treatment

Houseplants are subject to various ailments. Orchids are no exception. Diseases affecting these plants can be divided by the type of pathogen:

Each of them can affect different parts of the plant. Diseases are manifested in the form of: rot, blotches, raids. Depending on the type of pathogen, certain timely treatment is applied.

Fungal diseases

Diseases of orchids can be provoked by a strong overwetting, violation of temperature and ventilation regimes. In this case, favorable conditions are created for the intensive development of fungi. They are a source of disease. Fungal diseases cause root rot. This disease can lead to the death of orchids. The root system, affected by rot, decomposes, and the leaves and stem of the plant dries out completely.

No less dangerous are fungal tracheomycosis. Orchid diseases caused by this pathogen affect the plant's vascular system. At the same time, the lower leaves of the orchid gradually turn yellow and the lower parts of the stem, neck and roots rot. Growth ceases overall. The disease is almost incurable and leads to the death of the plant. All sorts of spots cause diseases of orchid leaves. These include: powdery mildew, rust, anthracnose, septoria, stangosporoz, phyllostiktosis, cricosporosis. Also these diseases afflict flowers.

For the treatment of fungal diseases used fungicides. It is advisable to use biologics, which are less toxic than chemicals.

Diseases of bacterial origin

Prone to weakened injured plants. Diseases of orchids are caused by bacteria that invade tissues. The root rot at the same time quickly affects the entire plant. During the week the plant dies. Bacterial spots affect the leaves of the plant. After the ingress of pathogenic bacteria, the disease rapidly develops. Oily spots appear, the diameter of which reaches two centimeters. Bacterial diseases of orchids are destructive, and their treatment does not provide for special preparations that can prevent them. The use of synthetic antibiotics is proposed. Symptoms of bacterial and fungal diseases are similar. And if it is difficult to accurately determine the nature of the damage to the plant, it is advisable to use fungicides and antibiotics together.

Viral diseases

At home, these diseases can not be determined. This requires laboratory tests. Diseases of orchids appear in the form of various spots of various configurations. There are viral infections that can make a plant suffer for several years. Others cause the rapid development of the disease. These infections are practically not treated. First of all, weakened orchids are infected. "Care - diseases" - this relationship is directly related to the state of the plant. In case of viral damage, it can be saved from death by changing the conditions of detention. Very often it is the external conditions, and not the condition of the plant itself, that are the cause of the occurrence of orchid disease, and their treatment must begin, first of all, by eliminating unfavorable conditions.

Preventive actions

Diseases are easier to preempt than to cure. To favorite plant is not depressed, should strictly follow all the rules of care for him. A strong orchid is less susceptible to infection. New acquisitions are kept in quarantine for a month. If the first signs of the disease appear, the plant is isolated. During the period of treatment it is kept in a dry room and does not make fertilizer.

Falenopsis orchid is fabulously beautiful. Diseases and pests overshadow the cultivation of this plant. Unfortunately, there are a lot of both. They affect primarily weakened plants. But it happens quite often that even with good care, pests will appear on tropical beauties surrounded by attention and care. At the same time isolate affected orchids. Diseases and pests can spread to other, uninfected plants. Quarantine will last until complete cure. When pest control is necessary to be able to identify them and have information to combat take off.

Shchitovka (Coccidae) and pseudo shield

Houseplants are damaged by various pests. And many of them are equally dangerous for different flower crops. Orchids are most often affected by scythos and false guards. These pests have the same external data. Orchids are most often affected by the palm shield. Oval-shaped pests reach a diameter of one or two millimeters. Scutellum is covered with white wax hairs. They multiply rapidly and cover the plant completely. Shippers are sucking insects that feed on plant sap. When mass resettlement, they are able to destroy the orchid.

Diseases and pests of orchids. Features of treatment

Therefore, in order not to turn up the beauty like troubles and avoid disappointments, it is important to correctly follow all the rules of care and quickly respond to any signs of flower damage by diseases and parasites. The effectiveness of dealing with such problems may depend on timely diagnosis. To do it at home, it’s important to know what it looks like. symptoms of various diseases.

Comfortable conditions for full growth of phalaenopsis

It is known that orchid phalaenopsis prefers well-lit places with nutritious soil and moderate humidity. Under natural conditions, such colorful creatures grow on trees, which is why light passing through a thick crown becomes diffused. Based on this feature, it is better to have a luxurious beauty on the eastern sill. Focusing on the southern windows, control the intensity of the radiation so that there is not too much light.

It is important to understand that excessive exposure to direct UV rays can have a detrimental effect on the orchid. A good protection against such contact can be shading windows with reflective foil, paper, or pieces of wallpaper. It is known that a flower can reach for the light, therefore, in order to preserve the beautiful shape of the crown, it must be rotated periodically.

Orchids placed on the north or west window-sills bloom badly. The fact is that normal flowering is seen only at 12-15 hours of daylight. In the latter case, the intensity of flowering will be maximum. As for the temperature, it should be moderate. In the summer period, the figures vary between 25-28 degrees, and in winter - 12-20 degrees Celsius.

It is important to take into account such a feature that the orchid has practically no pronounced rest period, therefore care must be intense in winter.

To successfully plant flowers, the plant needs lower temperatures at night at 5-7 degrees. However, if the temperature drops by 10 degrees, it can worsen the condition of the root system and their ability to absorb nutrient moisture. As a result, the orchid begins to intensively translate the metabolic processes to the consumption of accumulated reserves for survival. The roots begin to atrophy, the leaves lose their attractiveness, and in a short time, the phalaenopsis completely dies. Often, a similar reaction appears with uncomfortable watering. At the same time, the lack of moisture is transferred much better than an overabundance.

An important feature of care is to regularly ventilate the room, which is a good prevention from various diseases and pests.

Diseases of orchids and their treatment

Можно выделить большое количество болезней орхидей фаленопсис, которые приводят к самым непоправимым последствиям, в виде пятен, налёта, увядания, вплоть до гибели культуры. Very often dangerous fungi, bacteria, viruses and waste products of parasites become sources of various problems.

Among the most dangerous diseases, it is important to highlight rottenness. There are many forms of this problem, so the symptoms and features of treatment may differ from each other. Very often, trouble occurs with improper care, due to uncomfortable humidity, irrigation or temperature control. In most cases orchids phalaenopsis exposed to such putrid diseases:

  • root rot,
  • black rot
  • brown rot
  • gray rot
  • fusarium rot,

Most serious diseases quickly manifest themselves in the form of characteristic symptoms on an orchid leaf. If you take drastic measures in time to detect strange changes in the color, structure and density of the leaves, you will be able to avoid many irreparable consequences.

Among the most common diagnoses:

  • powdery mildew disease
  • anthracnose,
  • sheet spotting

If your flower was attacked by some viral disease, unfortunately, it is already impossible to cure it. We'll have to eliminate the culture by burning in an isolated place.

Pest Orchid Phalaenopsis

The activity of parasites can have a detrimental effect on the normal development of the lush beauty at home. Like many other indoor flowers, phalaenopsis exposed to dangerous insectsincluding:

  • spider, root and other ticks,
  • whitefly,
  • slugs,
  • sucking parasites

Another very dangerous scourge is aphid. Various viral and fungal diseases develop in the pest’s vital activity, which can lead to irreparable consequences. It is important to quickly respond to the symptoms of the disease and take a number of comprehensive measures. Sometimes, the problem can be eliminated by using good fungicides and powerful medicines, and sometimes it is necessary to eliminate the flower in order to prevent infection of other specimens.

Treatment and prevention of orchid diseases

Given the tendency of the orchid phalaenopsis to different diseases, it is important to seriously think about flower treatment methods and choose the most effective.

Among the most common problems, especially often putrid formations. They are associated with increased moisture-loving flower, inappropriate quality of the substrate and long-term differential temperature range. In rare cases, viral diseases are transmitted with other indoor plants.

Effective treatments for brown or black rot are virtually absent. If the problem is at an early stage of its development, it is possible that the orchid can be saved by applying a series of “surgical” interventions. Enough cut the affected area with a sterile knife, trying to be extremely careful not to damage the healthy part. After successful completion of such a procedure, the cutting sites should be treated with coal dust or Bordeaux mixture. The substrate is replaced, the pots are sterilized and cleaned.

When carrying out rehabilitation activities, it is important to provide the flower with comfortable conditions for quick recovery. They include: the minimum allowable change in temperature, regular humidification and air circulation in the room, the absence of drafts.

If there are other orchids near phalaenopsis, they are treated with Bordeaux mixture or any other copper-based preparation. The best way to effectively prevent diseases is to thoroughly ventilate the room, comfortable moistening, competent watering and lighting.

Diseases of orchids. The main methods of treatment

If you notice that your orchid has been attacked by root rot, you should take immediate action faster. These include the removal of the substrate and the drying of the pot. The roots are cleared of rot and lesions, after which they are treated in a special solution based on Topsin or Fundazole. To maximize the effect of such treatment, it is better to immerse the rhizome 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Transplantation is carried out in a clean, decontaminated substrate.

Prevention of root rot necessarily consists of a comfortable mode of hydration and watering. It also includes monitoring the state of the substrate and its timely replacement.

The defeat of the orchid Fusarium rot can be explained poor air circulation and unbalanced irrigation. As a result, rot can attack different parts of the leaf and young shoots, as a result, they will begin to curl, turn yellow and lose rigidity. Often, fusarial decay leads to the formation of spots and plaque of fungal origin. Large-scale defeat can not be cured. If it is at the local stage, phalaenopsis is treated with Fundazole solution, repeating the procedure 2-3 times a day for 10-14 days. At the same time, the whole plant is placed in the solution, along with the pot. Many growers believe that Fundazol is one of the most effective drugs for treating orchids.

The tool is in great demand due to the rapid impact on various types of rot, including fusarium. In addition, it effectively localizes powdery mildew and prevents the further development of fungal growths. The drug contains benomyl, which suspends the vital processes of pathogenic microorganisms, as a result of which they die. If systemic preventive measures are carried out with the help of Fundazole, a significant part of putrefactive and fungal diseases will be eliminated.

When treating orchids for diseases and pests, seasonal spraying is better to stop.

Diseases of fungal origin

If spots appear on the sheets, this is most likely due to the defeat of the plant by a fungal disease. Symptoms can manifest as multiple localized damage, represented by dark spots on the sheets. Symptoms may resemble small dents with a characteristic dark shade. With anthracnose lesions, it is important to review the moisture regime. Very often the problem causes water stagnation in the bowls of young leaves and at the growth point. If the plant is affected very intensively, it is better to eliminate it, otherwise the disease will progress.

If there are not so many affected areas, you can simply cut them off, treating healthy tissue with ashes. As a good sterilizing and healing agents using conventional activated carbon, which is pre-crushed. The soil composition in the pot is replaced, and the pot itself is thoroughly cleaned. The entire rehabilitation period includes complete isolation of the orchid from other similar flowers growing in the room.

Prevention of fungal diseases includes mandatory compliance with a comfortable mode of humidity and watering. It is important to prevent water from entering the growth point and sinus of young shoots of the culture. Room air should have a humidity in the range of 40-70%. Also, the room must be regularly ventilated.

With the disease powdery mildew symptoms may be more pronounced. Both white sheets and buds and inflorescences are covered with white bloom. The rate of development of the disease is very high, so the lack of proper treatment quickly leads to the death of a beautiful plant. The intensity of the lesion can be determined by temperature and humidity indicators. If the temperature and humidity are too high, the problem will develop much faster.

Of the effective treatment methods, it is necessary to single out the treatment of the plant with colloidal sulfur, Fundazole, Topchin-M and Scor.

Preventive measures include periodic spraying with Fitosporin.

Viral diseases

As for viral diseases, which often appear after infection with dangerous pests, they virtually incurable. And although the problem is not as common as the previous ones, its presence indicates the rapid death of the plant. If you notice characteristic patches, plaque and other strange symptoms, as soon as possible, isolate the plant from others so that the infection does not spread to healthy individuals. Burning orchid is needed along with the pot.

As for prevention, it consists of observing the necessary regimens of the normal life of the flower.

You can restore the natural attractiveness of the sheet and relieve it of stains, plaque and other unwanted defects by using resuscitation.

By following these recommendations, you can bring phalaenopsis orchid back to life in a short period of time.

Optimal conditions for phalaenopsis orchids

Orchids of this type are suitable for rooms well-lit by diffused sunlight. In nature, phalaenopsis grows on trees, and the sun's rays on the way to them have to overcome the crown. The eastern arrangement of windows is considered ideal. If they are oriented to the south, in summer control the intensity of solar radiation. Prolonged exposure to direct rays is detrimental to the plant. Protection will serve as shading windows with paper, reflective foil, pieces of wallpaper. Phalaenopsis tends to reach for the light. In order to maintain its stability and aesthetically pleasing appearance, it needs to be rotated periodically.

Healthy Phalaenopsis - the best decoration of any room

In plants placed on the north and west windows, the intensity of flowering will be less. For proper development and flowering Phalaenopsis requires a 12-, and preferably 15-hour light day.

The temperature regime required for this orchid species does not contradict what usually happens in most residential premises. In the summer, it is +25, +28 degrees, in the winter - enough and +18, +20.

One of the main features of these orchids is the almost complete absence of rest periods.

For laying flowers phalaenopsis requires a decrease in temperature at night by 5-7 degrees. Such a temperature amplitude is usual or quite possible in houses and apartments.

But lowering the temperature to +10 degrees can lead to the loss of the ability of the roots to absorb moisture. The plant transfers the metabolic processes to the consumption of previously accumulated reserves, which is fraught with rapid deterioration of the life support system. The roots gradually atrophy, the leaves frown, and the plant dies. Sometimes this reaction to a lower temperature is confused with insufficient watering. And the increase in the amount of moisture in such a situation further aggravates the situation.

Phalaenopsis needs fresh air. Frequent airing is very useful for the plant, but it must be protected from drafts, otherwise the plant may get sick.

When the plant is not depressing, phalaenopsis looks great.

This type of orchid is quite moisture-loving. For its normal vital activity, it is necessary to maintain a constant humidity of 60–80%.

If during the cold season the room is heated by electric convectors or other devices that dry the air, the orchid should be additionally moistened with a spray gun. At the same time it is necessary to moisturize the root system, rather than the leaves.

Defeat rot

A separate large category in this list are various types of rot. The list of possible symptoms is very wide and depends on local conditions, air humidity, intensity of irrigation and temperature in the room. We list the most common and pronounced cases:

  • brown rot
  • black rot
  • root rot,
  • gray rot
  • fusarium rot.

What does a limp, blackening sheet

Some common phalaenopsis diseases manifest their symptoms on plant leaves. Prompt changes in leaf color, structure and density will help to prevent the most disastrous consequences.

The black on the leaves eloquently says that a serious danger looms over the plant

The most common diagnoses:

  • powdery mildew,
  • anthracnose,
  • leaf spot.

In the case of the diagnosis of viral orchid disease, it, unfortunately, can not be treated and resuscitation. Such a plant must be eliminated. The most effective way is to burn the orchid.

Ticks, scale insects, aphids and other parasites

A very detrimental effect on the plant has the vital activity of parasites. Like many other indoor flowers, orchids are at risk of damage by various insects.

The most common pests are:

  • spider weeds, root and other types of ticks,
  • whitefly,
  • slugs (may be in the substrate),
  • sucking parasites (aphids, scale insects, worms),
  • thrips.

A separate type of danger is the development of viral and fungal diseases in the places where aphids accumulate. Such places themselves become breeding grounds for disease.

What to do when the plant starts to rot

Treatment of diseases such as brown and black rot in advanced stages (more than 30% of the plant is affected) is almost impossible. If rotting captures a smaller area, you can try to save the flower. For this you need to conduct a kind of operation. Carefully cut the affected areas with a sterile knife, trying to minimally damage healthy tissue. After the operation, sprinkle the cut points with coal dust and treat with Bordeaux mixture. The substrate should be discarded, the pots should be sterilized, and a clean, healthy substrate should be poured into them.

During rehabilitation, the orchid needs to create the most comfortable conditions: the minimum allowable air temperature drop (amplitude 5–7 degrees), stable moistening, air circulation in the room, but without drafts.

If other orchids are located in close proximity to the affected plant, they should be treated with Bordeaux mixture (another preparation containing copper can also be used). The best prevention of such diseases - careful adherence to the modes of ventilation, moisture, watering and lighting.

With strict observance of irrigation, lighting, airing modes, the plant will not have to be rescued.

If root rot is found in phalaenopsis, urgent measures should be taken immediately. Remove the substrate, dry the pot. Remove rot from roots, remove affected areas. After that, the root system must be processed in a special solution (0.2% Topsin or Fundazole). For the maximum beneficial effect, the roots are immersed in the solution 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Replace such an orchid should be in a decontaminated clean substrate.

Root rot prevention is the careful observance of the regime of moistening and watering, as well as monitoring the state of the substrate, its timely replacement.

The defeat of an orchid with Fusarium rot is most often associated with poor air circulation and a violation of the irrigation regime. Such rot affects all parts of the leaves, as well as young shoots. The leaves turn yellow, curl, become soft. Sometimes the process of fusarial rotting is accompanied by the appearance of a raid of fungal spores of a pink hue. With large-scale lesion treatment is impossible. In case of local infection, the orchid should be processed in a 0.2% solution of Fundazole. This procedure should be performed 2-3 times a day for 10-14 days. In this case, the whole plant can be immersed in the solution together with the pot. Fundazol is the most effective fungicidal agent in the fight against Fusarium rot.

Fundazol is used to treat various types of rot, in particular, fusarium. And also suitable as powdery mildew prevention. The main active agent in this preparation is benomyl, which inhibits the vital processes of pathogenic cells, as a result of which they die. Systemic preventive measures with the use of Fundazole will help prevent most of the putrefactive and fungal diseases of orchids. The proportions for the solution are as follows: 1 gram of Fundazole per 1 liter of water. It is possible to apply solution by means of a sprayer. The solution is watered the soil, wipe the leaves. After the solution dries, white scurf will appear on the plant. Rinse off is recommended only in a day. This is quite a toxic substance, so it should be used in protective equipment. In many countries, Fundazole is banned due to toxicity. It is not recommended to contact with him pregnant.

During treatment, spraying water should be stopped. Direct drafts against the plant should not be allowed, while airing is necessary.

Fundazol - effective systemic (penetrating) fungicide, protective and therapeutic action

As in the previous cases, the best prevention of Fusarium disease will be unconditional adherence to the regimens and rules for the care of phalaenopsis.

The fight against gray mold involves the removal of the affected areas with the subsequent processing of healthy tissues with preparations containing fungicides. With extensive damage (more than 50%), the plant will have to be eliminated and all the surrounding indoor flowers should be treated with fungicides.

Fungicide is a substance (of chemical or biological origin) that inhibits the development of fungi.

Prevention of gray mold is similar to the actions described above.

Another danger - fungi

Leaf spot and anthracnose are fungal diseases. Their symptoms are manifested by multiple localized damage to the leaves of a dark color. Such damage is more like a dent. Phalaenopsis is affected by anthracnose mainly due to high humidity. Ещё одной причиной может быть застаивание воды в чашах молодых листьев и в точке роста. Обширно поражённое растение лучше ликвидировать. Если же участков поражения не особо много, их можно срезать, а здоровые ткани обработать золой. Подойдёт и толчёный активированный уголь. Субстрат следует поменять, а горшок простерилизовать.During the entire period of rehabilitation, the plant must be isolated from other similar flowers.

This phalaenopsis flower is affected by a fungal disease, anthracnose.

Prevention of fungal diseases - this is a strict adherence to the regime of watering and moisturizing, as well as the exclusion of water entering the growth point and sinuses of young orchid shoots. Room humidity should be between 40–70%. Airing is quite frequent, depending on the season.

A disease such as powdery mildew has pronounced symptoms. They are characterized by the appearance of white bloom on the plant. Moreover, such a scurf appears on all parts of the plant, including buds and inflorescences. Such a disease develops quickly and leads to the death of the orchid, if the necessary measures of treatment are not taken in time. More rapid development of this disease contributes to increased temperature and abnormally high humidity.

The treatment method involves soaking the plant in a solution of colloidal sulfur. Preparations intended to combat powdery mildew are called Topsin-M, Scor, Fundazol.

Prevention includes periodic spraying of phalaenopsis with Phytosporin.

Dropped buds, sticky spots - look for shield

The shield is located on the leaves of the plant in colonies. Individual individuals are only a few millimeters long. It is a sucking parasite that feeds on plant sap and releases viscous waste products that block normal photosynthesis. In the end, this leads to the rapid depletion and death of orchids.

The treatment involves the manual collection and destruction of all flap. At the initial stage of development, the parasite has more delicate covers, rather than an adult formed individual with a protective shell of wax. Young flaps can be removed with a cotton swab moistened with an insecticide, with older adults will have to work harder. The easiest way is to clean the plant with a soft toothbrush. It is not recommended to clean the plant with alcohol, kerosene and other flammable liquids. So you can harm the flower. An orchid after collecting parasites is treated with Fitoverm, repeating the procedure again a week later. The substrate must be replaced and the pot sterilized. During the manual removal of the shield insets, one must be extremely careful, as only a few of the missing individuals will nullify your work.

Prevention will be washing the leaves every 4–5 days.

The use of insecticide Fitoverm for orchids provides the following proportions: 2 ml of the drug per 50 ml of water. Spray the solution from the spray need to the whole plant. It should be clarified that Fitoverm affects only adult scale insects that are able to feed on their own. Therefore, the treatment is always carried out repeatedly in 5-7 days. Floterm can not be used in conjunction with other insecticides.

Fitoderm is of low toxicity to humans.

Phytoverm is a fourth generation biological product, the basis of which are the waste products of soil microorganisms

How to save from mealybug

Adult formed individuals, located in the form of colonies, create a white vatoobrazny structure in the attachment to the plant. These parasites, like scutes, are practically immobile, but do not have a protective wax shell, which greatly facilitates their manual removal. If an insect is noticed, take action immediately. The chervets can hide in the axils of young leaves, in dried leaves, in the root system.

Powdery Mealybug Plant Treated with Phyto ferm

Isolate the pest infected orchid from other plants. Remove the mealybugs with a cotton swab. Carefully inspect the place where the flower stood. Mealybugs can inhabit surrounding objects. Treat the plant with Fitoverm in proportions similar to that in the fight against the shield (2 ml of the drug per 50 ml of water). Treatment is done 3 times with an interval of 10 days. Remove dried bulbs, leaves and roots - this is an excellent prevention of the occupation of the plant by insects. If the flower at the time of detection of the cheeks is in the flowering phase, then, no matter how sorry, the buds and flowers should also be removed. The parasite that has settled in the buds can be saved there from the action of an insecticide.

White pest on yellowing leaves

The whitefly is dangerous with its larvae. They suck nutrients from orchid leaves. In this case, the plant itself turns yellow, loses its shape and may die. Determining whitefly is easy. These are insects of a distinct white color similar to ordinary indoor blackflies. Hiding from the back of the sheet.

The fight against whitefly involves washing the leaves with a solution of soap (the proportion of solution: 1 to 6), spraying the flower and the substrate Actellic. Rinse the leaves with clean water every 4–5 days.

Aktellik is a reliable protector of indoor plants from larvae of the whitefly, aphids, thrips and other parasites. It is a high power insecticide, but toxic enough for humans. It is better to use it last, when other drugs did not give the expected result.

For orchids, 2 ml of Actellica is diluted in 100 ml of water, followed by bringing the volume of the solution to 1 liter with pure water. It will be suitable for use within 24 hours. Spray the solution from the sprayer over the entire area of ​​the plant. Repeat the procedure after 7-10 days. Do not spray insecticide indoors and must apply protective equipment.

Actellic - very powerful intecicide

Combating parasites such as thrips and aphids provides the same measures as in the case of the whitefly.

Careful observation of plants, timely replacement and careful selection of the substrate will serve as a good pest control.

Root mite - the cause of root damage

Root mite infects the root system of a plant. High humidity contributes to its rapid reproduction. The tick lives in an uncleaned substrate.

Control measures include the removal of affected areas, their disinfection using coal dust, the replacement of the substrate and the disinfection of the pot. The roots themselves are also disinfected, for which purpose a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate is used.

Prevention will be a careful selection of the substrate, its timely replacement and the absence of waterlogging.

Disinfection of pots and substrates

To disinfect the pot, it can be treated with boiling water, sterilized under a stream of water vapor. But such methods can deform the capacity of poor-quality plastic. The best way is to soak the pot in a solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. When preparing the solution, be guided by its color, which should be pale pink, in no case not bright and certainly not purple. Then dry the pot, it will not be superfluous to rub it with alcohol.

This should be the color of the potassium permanganate solution for disinfection.

To disinfect the substrate, place it in a container with clean water and simmer for 15 minutes, then dry on a clean towel.

Wither and fall leaves

A plant with faded leaves is enough to provide the necessary conditions for normal life activity: first of all, observe the correct modes of moisture, watering, lighting and ventilation.

If the orchid has lost the leaves, then in addition to the above, it is necessary to feed the plant. For this fit nitrogen fertilizers. But it is necessary to monitor the concentration of nitrogen, since its excess can lead to even worse consequences.

Examples of popular fertilizers for orchids with a normal nitrogen concentration:

  • Greenworld for orchids,
  • Kemira Lux,
  • Cameleon
  • Oasis,
  • Bona-forte.

Complex fertilizer Kemira Lux is quite suitable for feeding phalaenopsis, lost leaves

Most professional growers recommend using fertilizers in slightly smaller proportions than indicated on packages. Phalaenopsis can also be immersed in a container with a solution of fertilizers for 15–20 minutes. After that, the flower must be dried.

Resuscitation method of phalaenopsis that has lost its leaves:

  1. First you need to inspect the root system. If it is abundantly affected by rotting processes (more than 50%), then the plant is practically doomed. If most of the roots are elastic and clean in appearance, they should be left, the rest should be removed and the cutting sites should be treated with coal dust.
  2. To prepare the prepared root system with Fundazol solution. (Proportions and method of use are indicated above).
  3. Substrate and pot sanitized.
  4. After that, place the root system in a pot with the treated substrate, and the pot itself - in a plastic bag. The package should be spacious, creating a kind of greenhouse.
  5. You need to tie the package immediately after sprinkling the plant with water. It is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse often; fresh air should be run into it once a day.

Keep the orchid in a greenhouse until new leaves appear. After their formation, the plant should restore the normal mode of irrigation and spraying.

Mini-greenhouse - good help in the resuscitation of plants

Do not give completely rot root

Necessary care can even help a plant that has lost most of its root system.

Actions for reanimation of the phalaenopsis root system:

  1. First of all, the plant must be removed from the substrate and rinsed well in warm running water.
  2. Then you should dry the orchid. Within 2-3 hours, it should lie on paper or a towel at room temperature.
  3. Inspect the remaining young roots and assess their condition. Usually they have a light green color in Phalaenopsis. The structure they must be elastic. The roots are slippery and soft, must be removed.
  4. Remove all dead and suspicious roots. The cuts should be treated with coal dust or special antiseptic preparations. Young root shoots, having a healthy appearance, for a day should be placed in a strengthening mixture, which is sold in flower shops in the form of ampoules, powders, and liquids. By the way, experienced growers recommend the procedure of strengthening once a month, especially during the change of seasons. Orchids are watered by immersion in an aqueous solution, where such mixtures are added according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  5. After that, the plant must be placed in a vessel with water. Leaves should not come into contact with liquid. The water in the vessel is changed once a day.
  6. After sprouting young roots to a length of 3-4 cm, transplant the orchid in the prepared soil.

Often there are recommendations to place orchids in a sugar solution (1 teaspoon of sugar per 1 liter of water).

There is a process of regrowth of the roots

Often in a new pot you have to fix a flower. This is necessary for the better engraftment of the root system.

While reviving the plant support ribbon

Reviews of lovers of a beautiful flower: to help grow and bloom

I recently noticed a small white creeping dot in a phalaenopsis pot. The insect is very small, round, white or yellowish, unlike all common pests. She began to look in other pots and to one degree or another found them in all the pots of phalaenopsis (they were visible because the pots are transparent). They crawled out for a while on the leaves of the plants and back into the bark. There were bites on the leaves. They appeared after buying from the hands of the Taiwanese "Leopard Prince".
She processed all the plants with Aktaroy - the insects did not react at all, continued to creep and frolic on the orchids. Along the way, I read various forums and tried to determine who it was. To no avail.
Has processed all plants Fytoverm - again nothing! they continued to crawl cheerfully. And now I don’t remember on which site I found the description of the onion tick - the hit turned out to be 100%! It turns out that he is very dangerous, and the saddest thing is that he loves orchids very much!
One girl advised me to take large garbage bags, sprinkle Dichlorvos inside, put an ear on it, tie a bag and leave it for 10-12 hours. Honestly, it was scary! Initially, I decided to process one plant in this way and see what happens!
After 12 hours of finding phalaenopsis in a package with dichlorvos I did not find a single tick in a pot. The plant looked vigorous. A few days later I processed all the other plants in the same way. Ticks disappeared!
But! Treatment should be done 3 times every 5 days (I was told so). The agent is smelly and poisonous. I processed the plants in the bathroom and by the end of the procedure I was practically like a tick.
Two times I have already etched them, the last test remains. But no matter what you do for the sake of your favorite flowers! This is the story ...
Good luck to everyone in the fight against creeping filth!



Girls, I will write here, who can help my experience. I received a phalaenopsis with a completely rotted growth point, or rather, on arrival only the central leaf fell out, but the rot went further. First of all, Maxim tried to fill in, but since he was liquid, it played a role: the rot did not stop but went further. I had to clean everything with cotton swabs and pour it, ramming antibiotic tablets into growth points. Rot stopped. Roots almost gone. One sheet is the bottom and that's it. Now, after 1.5 months, I still have the same leaf, and something else climbs - whether the root, or baby, is not yet clear. For myself, I concluded: if the rot is at the growth point, then only the tablets are in powder form.



Use cinnamon, it is the strongest natural antiseptic. And non-toxic to the environment. Does not break (does not burn) the cellular layer of tissues. And always there at hand.
I will give my own example. Growth point on the orchid with a young leaf rotted. I took out the sheet, he separated himself easily. Scraping nothing, not stripping, generously covered with cinnamon. After 2–4 weeks, a new leaf from the same growth point began to move. The new sheet is completely intact and not rotten.



This year I took into account my mistakes last year. Summer orchids stand on my open balcony. Last year I brought them into the room and did not process them from the tick, he went for a walk. I had to process several times with pure alcohol, from the sprayer not only the plants themselves, but also pots, frames and window sills. This year I carried the pot with the plant right into the bath, sprayed it with non-greedy spirits, and only then put it on the windowsill. So I treated all the plants, I have no hairy ones, they cannot be processed with alcohol. Everything is clean, all plants are alive, without any consequences. And, of course, there will be no Aktara in my apartment!



Undoubtedly, caring for such a fastidious indoor plant as phalaenopsis requires certain skills. This is an understanding of the life processes of the orchid, and a timely assessment of the symptoms of possible diseases, and a sufficient orientation in the world of pests of indoor plants. But the beauty of this flower for true connoisseurs covers any time and money spent on its care.


This dangerous type of pest strikes precisely orchids. The pest itself is like a small, fluffy lump of oblong shape, which has long antennae. It usually lives in the axils of the leaves near the ground. The pest feeds on plant sap. Because of this, orchid leaves begin to turn yellow, and all parts of the flower become sluggish. Home flower is immediately separated from other plants, otherwise all indoor flowers will be amazed by this pest.

To get rid of this insect, you must carefully examine the whole flower. All damaged leaves must be removed. If these pests of phalaenopsis orchids are found, they are worth collecting and destroying. Orchid need to dig and inspect the roots, and remove all damaged roots. All the old substrate to destroy. The new substrate must be treated with a fitoderm, it is used according to the instructions. If the leaves are damaged, then it is worth treating them with soapy water. For the solution you need to prepare warm water and dissolve in it a small amount of rubbed soap.

The flower is kept in quarantine for a month, and every day it is necessary to carefully examine the plants.

Gallery: homemade orchid (25 photos)

Shchitovka and false shield

This pest has an oval shape and is covered with white hairs. Its size reaches 1-2 millimeters. At first the shield looks like a dot. And if the pest is not noticed in time, the leaves are completely covered with parasites. The shield feeder feeds on the sap of the leaves, so a large number of pests can ruin the whole plant.

To combat these parasites, it is necessary to inspect the plant and collect all the bugs. The roots must be inspected, cut off all affected, cut with charcoal. The pot and the substrate can not be reused, they are thrown away. New pot filled with fresh substrate. After that, all the leaves and roots of the orchid can be treated with special chemicals to combat the shield. The plant should be re-treated after a week or 10 days. And for the prevention it is necessary to wipe the orchid leaves with a special solution.

Spider mite

Infection with spider mites can be determined by white bloom on the leaves of the plant. White spots on orchid leaves first have a small diameter, but then turn into one large spot. The mite feeds on the orchid's cellular sap. Перед опрыскиванием растения специальным препаратом необходимо вручную удалить большинство вредителей. Можно счистить их влажным ватным тампоном. Субстрат необходимо заменить, а сам горшок тщательно промыть.

Специальными препаратами стоит обрабатывать растение дважды.

Butterfly whitefly

This pest has the appearance of a small white butterfly. It can inhabit all parts of the plant. The larvae are deposited on the roots or leaves of the orchid. They all feed on the sap of the plant, which leads to weakened orchids. A weakened orchid begins to fall ill with various diseases.

Larvae and adult butterflies can be destroyed with the help of a soap solution. A large amount of soap is dissolved in water. You can also use the drug Fitoverm.

Trips: features

These pests often settle before the acquisition of the plant. The thrips are small black beetles that inhabit the substrate. But they feed on young roots and leaves. They move quickly, catching them by hand is not easy. Therefore, immediately after purchase, you must get rid of them. A pot with a flower must be dipped in water. Thrips can not live in water, so after 10 minutes they get to the surface.

Pest Control

To destroy shchitovki apply special drugs. Before using it, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the entire plant from pests. To carry out wet processing. After this, the substrate and orchids are sprayed with special preparations. When fighting with the shield, the use of "Fitoverin", "Aktelik" or "Aktara" is recommended. Processing is carried out strictly according to the instructions attached to the drugs. It will be necessary to re-treatment, which is performed in a week or ten days. The treated plant is transplanted into a new pot filled with fresh substrate. As a preventive measure, leaves are rubbed at intervals of five days.

Pest control methods

If an insect lesion has been missed and its presence has been noticed after orchid disease, a thorough examination of the affected parts of the plant is carried out. Dried leaves and roots are removed. The affected areas are treated with water with the addition of soap. Insects are removed with pointed sticks. The substrate is treated with a special preparation "Fitoverm". It is used in accordance with the instructions. Three-time processing is carried out with a weekly interval. Within a month, the plant should be in quarantine. During this period of time carefully examine the orchid.

White fly

A small butterfly with a white color is an orchid pest. The whitefly and its larvae feed on the sap of the plant. It becomes weakened. As a result, various diseases of orchids can occur. Pests move freely. Larvae are located on the leaves and roots. The affected parts of the plant gradually dry out.

Spider mites

Among the pests of orchids are considered the most dangerous mites. They are quite small. They can be determined visually by external signs of plant damage. This is the appearance of silver plaque.

Nutrition of ticks is the cellular juice of the orchid. Intensive reproduction of these pests can lead to a significant damage to the plant.

Fight against spider mites

Apply mechanical and chemical methods. First of all, you must manually remove the pests from the plant. The pots in which the orchid grows should be washed. It is placed in a container with water. It is also necessary to pay attention to the place where the flower was located. Conduct a double spraying of the substrate, with a weekly interval, the solution "Fitoverma".

Nematodes: description, methods of control

Numerous pests of orchids include roundworms - nematodes. Small worms penetrate the stem and roots. They feed on the juice and nutrients of the orchid. Diseases and pests are interrelated. As a result of the vital activity of nematodes, the plant weakens and is subject to various diseases. The combined effect of disease and pests leads to the death of the plant. To eliminate the pest process the substrate. Prepare a solution of drugs "Decaris" or "Levimisil" at the rate of 1 tablet per liter of water. They shed the substrate. A more effective action is the soaking of the whole plant, which is previously removed from the pot, in the prepared solution.

Trips: detection, remedies

Quite often, pests can be found in acquired plants. The first action after the purchase is the detection of unwanted surprises that may be hidden in the substrate. Identifying insects is easy. It is necessary to prepare a small container of water for bathing plant pots. Insects caught in the substrate within ten minutes will leave it.

Thrips are black tiny bugs that can move quickly. They live in the substrate of orchids. Tiny insects affect almost the entire plant. They feed on its juice, as well as young roots and leaves. Save the flower can timely detection of insects. Affected orchid is isolated from other indoor plants. It is thoroughly washed with warm water. Damaged areas are removed, leaving only healthy tissue.

Aphids: damage sites, methods of struggle

You can detect this dangerous pest with the naked eye. Whole pest colonies affect almost all parts of the plant. The underside of leaves, buds and flowers, shoots discolor if damaged. The plant becomes very weak, stops growing normally. This leads to orchid disease. The whole plant is covered with sticky insect secretions.

When a pest is detected, it is mechanically removed. Heavily affected areas of the orchid are removed. After that, carry out a double spraying with a weekly interval with special preparations. For the destruction of aphids recommended the use of drugs: "Decis", "Aktelik", "Fitoverm".

What conditions are required for Phalaenopsis orchids

Most often, orchid's poor state of health is signaled by its leaves: they begin to turn yellow, wither, dry out. It does not always mean illness. Beginning amateur growers face, rather, with a violation of the rules of care.

With good care Phalaenopsis orchid will delight you with abundant flowering

Orchid owners should be mindful of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis each year loses one or two lower leaves.

The yellowing of the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid may be due to natural processes in the plant.

Required lighting level

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct sunlight, but at the same time like good lighting. Therefore, the best place to place them will be the windowsill on the east or west side of the room.

On the southern window, the orchid of this species must be pritenyat, removing from the glass or covering the screen from the source of direct light.

Do not forget that proper growth and healthy development are possible with a day length of 12-15 hours. From mid-autumn and throughout the winter, install additional lighting over orchids, such as fitolampa. This light source is the best option, it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves are darkened, become soft and elongated, this indicates a lack of light.

For the winter, install additional lighting for orchids.

External factors: temperature and humidity in the room

Orchids are tropical flowers, they need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, it is necessary to maintain the temperature of the room within 20–25 ° C. The minimum allowed for an orchid (and then in certain cases, for example, during a dormant period) is at least 12 ° C.

The ideal level of humidity for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator throughout the premises, and besides, it is not very useful for people. The best option would be regular airing of the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis can not tolerate cold drafts) and increasing the humidity in one of the following ways.

    Spray an orchid from a spray bottle three times a day without touching the buds and flowers. Note that by night the moisture on the leaves should dry out. If there is a risk of direct sunlight, move the orchid pot to a more shaded place, otherwise the water drops will act as a lens, causing burns to the leaves of the plant.

Spray the orchids from the spray bottle to provide the desired level of moisture.

Correct watering

For Phalaenopsis orchid it is better to use water:

  • rain
  • defended at least a day,
  • boiled
  • skipped through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in gauze, put this bag in 10 liters of water and leave it for a day, it will soften the water.

  1. Remember that from cold water orchid roots can rot. Heat water to a temperature of 30–40 ° C.
  2. In order not to overflow the plant, moisten the substrate only after it has dried. The pot should be light, without condensation on the inner sides of the walls. Excess water should immediately flow out of the tank through the holes in the bottom.

Water the orchid after the substrate dries.

If the problem is clearly beyond the allowable limits, and is not associated with aging or care errors, you will have to look for the cause of the disease and the effects of pests.

Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

  • natural aging orchids,
  • insufficient watering
  • wrong content in a dormant period.
  • powdery mildew,
  • fusarium rot.
  • spider mite,
  • red flat mite,
  • whitefly.
  • aphid,
  • spider mite
  • bacterial spotting,
  • powdery mildew.
  • the room temperature is too low
  • frostbite of the leaves under the influence of cold,
  • In the fall and winter, the orchid is placed on a cold window-sill.
  • mealybug,
  • spider mite,
  • thrips.
  • insufficient watering
  • low air humidity
  • lack of light
  • untimely watering in summer.
  • bacterial spotting,
  • fusarium rot.
  • red flat mite,
  • aphid,
  • whiteflies.
  • too frequent or abundant watering,
  • for irrigation cold, undisturbed water is used.
  • insufficient watering
  • low air humidity.
  • whiteflies,
  • aphid,
  • shchitovki.
  • excessive watering at low temperature
  • water entering the leaves at low temperature.
  • thrips,
  • whiteflies.
  • direct exposure to sunlight
  • low air humidity in the room
  • The temperature in the room is higher than the set.
  • red flat mite,
  • spider mite
  • whiteflies,
  • aphid.
  • low air temperature in combination with high humidity,
  • excess fertilizer containing nitrogen.
  • powdery mildew,
  • gray rot
  • spider mite,
  • mealybug,
  • thrips.
  • mealybug,
  • whitefly.
  • watering too often
  • high humidity.
  • aphid,
  • whitefly.

Fight against orchid diseases Phalaenopsis

Most often, the appearance of an orchid Phalaenopsis suffers from inadequate care. If you notice this in time and begin to correct the situation, the plant will get stronger quickly and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is lost, then fungal, viral and bacterial diseases will spread over a weakened flower, which can very quickly destroy orchid.

Consequences of breaking irrigation rules: why leaves become sluggish and fall

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high indoor humidity. Many novice growers are trying to compensate for the lack of moisture by frequent and abundant watering. This is fundamentally wrong: Phalaenopsis from this relationship leaves the leaves of turgor and crumble.

If this happens during the hot season, do the following:

  • wait for the substrate to dry and continue to water the flower every 2–3 days,
  • maintain the required humidity
  • In the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2–3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and airing, open the windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Edema: the root system can rot

Low temperature in the room, abundant watering and the ingress of water on the leaf plate can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, the roots begin to rot over time. In the cold season, remove the orchid pots away from the window sills, reduce watering and do not forget to remove excess water from the pan.

Leaf edema may occur due to prolonged contact with water.

Exposure to low temperatures: why do dark spots appear

In winter, Phalaenopsis orchids need special care, as they do not belong to cold-resistant ones. Keep the plant warm (at least 16 ° C) and regularly ventilated; eliminate spraying. Otherwise, the leaves will be covered with dark spots of fungal origin.

Phalaenopsis orchid leaves may die from exposure to low temperatures.

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid in a store and brought it home in the autumn-winter period, you may face another problem. The flower is hard to adapt in the cold season, its leaves are frozen and covered with white spots. Cut the affected areas to a healthy tissue and sprinkle the slices with crushed activated charcoal.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white scurf appear on the plant

Most often, we owe the development of fungal diseases on the orchid to improper watering, non-compliance with the temperature regime and excessive humidity. Phalaenopsis is most susceptible to powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, and less often rust.

  1. High temperatures and humidity result in powdery mildew. As soon as you notice the first signs of illness, water the orchid well, and after 2 hours, treat with a solution of colloidal sulfur with a spray gun. Another good remedy is Fitosporin, spray them with the leaves of the plant 3-4 times every 10 days.
  2. Due to high humidity and stagnant water, orchid is affected by anthracnose. To get rid of it, cut out the problem areas to a healthy tissue, dusting the cuts with ash. If the damage is large, complete treatment with Mikosan will help. The orchid should be moved to a drier room and regularly drain water from the pan.
  3. Gray rot occurs due to violations of irrigation and temperature. Having found a lesion, treat the whole plant with an Immunocytophyte from the base of the stems and leaves to the very tops.

Rot hits orchid due to improper watering

Ways to control Phalaenopsis pests

When you buy an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately put it on the window, where there are already other flowers. On the plant and in the substrate can be insects, and often dangerous.

  1. Pot with orchid dip into the water above the "shoulders", leave for 10 minutes. If insects hide in the substrate, the flood will drive them out. These can be spiders, centipedes and woodlice.
  2. Fully inspect the orchid, especially the inside of the leaves, buds, roots. Most often, you can get rid of pests found by wiping the plant with soapy water.

Many insect pests can hide in the substrate, causing damage to the root system.

Pest phalaenopsis orchids can affect the plant itself or the root system.

Trips: who leaves the bright paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown in a room with a high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is not more than 2.5 mm) also like heat, so they gladly settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that detecting insects is difficult: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is indicated by black dots and silver tracks on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the whole plant: they suck the juice out of the leaves and stalks, and lay the larvae in the roots.

Finding traces of thrips, hold such activities:

  1. Orchid, substrate and all the plants that were nearby, process with Actellica or Fitoverma solution.
  2. Repeat treatment 3 times every 7-10 days.

Flags and false guards: where did the sticky spots come from

As soon as you see characteristic tubercles of brown or yellowish color on the stems and leaves of the orchid, you should know: the plant is affected by a false shield. Such plaques are not always visible immediately, but they are the “house” of an adult female insect.

The larva of the false guard crawls around the plant in search of a suitable place, after which it sticks to it, pulling out the juices, and eventually becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on flower saps and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Shchitovka also often found on Phalaenopsis. Her carapace cover is denser than that of a false shield, rounded convex and covered with a wax coating. The impact on the plant is almost the same.

Flags and false guards resemble each other, and affect orchids equally.

Mealybugs: What Causes Leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can significantly suffer from mealybugs, as it is not easy to detect this pest. A small white insect with an elongated body covered with a fuzz is hidden at the roots, bases of leaves and in the places of their connection. The buckworm sucks the juice from the plant, leaving behind a powdery powdery liquid. You can definitely notice them when the flower leaves dry.

What to do to get rid of mealybug

  • completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid,
  • carefully examine all the hidden areas of the plant, select all the found pests using toothpicks,
  • Every day, examine the orchid for new worms,
  • wipe all affected areas regularly with soapy water
  • process the substrate 2-3 times with an interval of a week using Fitoverm,
  • Inspect the orchid all month. If you do not find new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whitefly: why leaves have dried up

Phalaenopsis orchids are also harmed by the tiny white butterflies and their larvae. Because of their impact, the flower weakens, the leaves dry. Adult individuals lay larvae in roots and on leaves.

To fix the problem, you need:

  • wash the orchid and the substrate with soapy water,
  • spray the plant with Fitoverma solution, repeat in a week.

Aphids: for whom it is difficult for the plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not so much dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The excreta cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the breath of the plant and becoming a comfortable medium for bacteria and fungi.

The remedy is as follows:

  • wash the plant with soapy water
  • process the plant and substrate with Fitoverma solution.

Ticks: who entangled the web buds

Orchid can become infected with ticks both at home and in the greenhouse. There are 3 types of spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous leaf punctures through which they suck the juice. These traces are clearly visible on the sheet plates, which begins to dry, turn white and discolor. Buds fall.

Resuscitation of a flower without roots

You can simply grow roots from the neck leaf. For this you need a nutrient fluid, consisting of:

  • boiled and cooled water
  • activated carbon
  • means for the development of roots - Epin, Zircon or Kornevin.

Even from one leaf of an orchid it is possible to restore a plant.

Step-by-step process

  1. Carefully cut the top of the orchid with a growth point with a knife. Put the cutting for two hours in a warm shaded place so that the cut-off area is drawn out.

Put the orchid cuttings in the shade

Place the sprout in the water and place in a warm place with diffused light.

Roots can appear even if the cut does not touch the water.

Sprout with strong roots can be transplanted into the substrate

Resuscitation after insufficient irrigation

With a lack of moisture orchid roots begin to dry, and the leaves fade. If improving irrigation does not help, you need to use the following method. You will need:

  • sphagnum moss,
  • cellophane package of the desired volume, preferably with a horizontal lock,
  • boiled water of room temperature
  • any B vitamins (you can use succinic acid).

Process description

  1. Dilute 1 ml of vitamins in 1 liter of water, hold the plant in this solution for 30 minutes. Orchid will be saturated with the necessary amount of moisture. Remove it from the solution and soak the sphagnum in it for 2 minutes. Wait until excess liquid is drained from it - the moss should be slightly damp.

Sphagnum moss and orchid must be kept in a vitamin solution.

Regularly air the greenhouse with an orchid

Nematodes - root dwellers

These small worms live inside the roots and stems, feed on juices. The plant loses vital substances and gradually dies. If the nematodes are few, then you can soak the pot or water the plant with a solution of the drug Decaris or Levimisil. But if the damage is strong, then you should pull the plant out of the pot, clean the roots of the substrate and soak the whole plant in this solution.

Leaf Pest Aphid

These pests are not hard to notice. First, they settle on the backs of the leaves. They multiply rapidly and fill the whole plant. In places of settlement aphid leaves sticky discharge. To get started is to remove all pests with your hands. If parts are severely affected, then these areas are removed.

Then the whole plant is treated with the drug Aktelik or Decis. Re-processing is necessary in a week.

Orchid diseases and their treatment

The plant may be subject to various diseases. They require different treatments.

Diseases of phalaenopsis orchids and their treatment:

  • Bacterial. Most often such diseases affect injured plants. Synthetic antibiotics are used to treat them.
  • Fungal. These diseases can appear due to improperly selected temperature and water regimes. It is the increased humidity that leads to the reproduction of fungal organisms. Treatment is usually carried out with the help of fungicides.
  • Viral. Usually appear under adverse conditions of growing orchids. It is extremely difficult to determine such phalaenopsis diseases at home. The treatment is carried out by changing the growing conditions.

Phalaenopsis can be affected by various diseases, most often they occur due to the general weakness of the plant. Most often phalaenopsis orchids are affected by diseases due to:

  • Irregular watering.
  • Inadequate airing.
  • Pest damage.

Fusarium rot

Phalaenopsis orchid is most commonly affected by this disease. Fusarium appears if the plant is contained at high humidity, but ventilation is difficult.

Orchid leaves first turn yellow, then begin to curl, and a pink patina forms on the surface.

How to treat an orchid? If orchid fusarium is suspected, treatment should begin immediately. It is necessary to use the drug Fundazol. He is bred according to the instructions and process the orchid. You can immerse the plant completely in this solution. For full recovery you need to process the orchid daily for two weeks. Also it is necessary to ensure that the roots are ventilated.

Root rot

This disease occurs when high levels of humidity, low air temperature, when using the wrong substrate and too abundant watering. First of all, it is necessary to use a light substrate, if it is too dense, then the ventilation of the roots becomes difficult and the roots experience discomfort.

The disease begins with blackening and rotting of the roots. It is quite easy to detect the onset of the disease through a transparent pot. The roots completely rot, the flower lacks nutrition and the leaves become brown.

The treatment begins with an examination of the roots. All black and damaged roots are removed. And the remaining roots should be treated with a solution of fungicide. Substrate better to take a new, high-quality. But if you have to use the old substrate, then it must be treated with a solution of Fundazole. The whole pot is completely immersed in the solution for 10 minutes. The plant itself is treated three times. Between treatments it is necessary to maintain an interval of two weeks.

Gray rot

Gray rot appears due to the large moisture inside the pot and low temperature in the room. The flowers appear dark spots, and the whole plant becomes sluggish. The disease develops rather quickly, and the orchid dies.

A good prevention of gray rot is the use of Kendal. It enhances the immunity and protective function of the flower.

The flower should be sprayed with a solution of fungicide. If the gray mold recurs, then the previous drug cannot be used. It simply does not work, gray rot is resistant to such drugs.

Anthracnose disease

First of all, small specks appear on the leaves of the flower. Then the spots on the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid become larger and merge into one spot. The stain becomes black. An infected flower should be isolated from the rest, otherwise the disease will spread to all plants.

To prevent disease, it is necessary to ventilate the room well, create air humidity in the range of 50–60% and ensure that water does not stagnate in the leaf axils.

Large damages are cut with a sharp knife. The rest of the plant is treated with a solution of fungicides. And it may take several treatments.

Bacterial spotting

With the defeat of bacterial disease of orchids leaves become sluggish, and cracks appear on their surface. Wet black spots and spots may also appear on the leaves. This disease is easy to cure.

First you need to remove all damaged areas and stains. To do this, use a sharp knife and carefully cut the damage. All cuts should be treated with a disinfectant. For example, alcohol tincture of iodine or charcoal. Some experts recommend using cinnamon or ground pepper, they also disinfect slices, but do not harm the flower.

If the damage is strong, then it is worth using a fungicide solution. If the bacterial blotch does not appear within two weeks, then the flower can be considered healthy.

Disease prevention

In order for the plant not to be affected by pests and diseases, it is necessary to correctly organize the conditions and care. It is more difficult to cure a disease than to prevent a home flower.

Disease prevention conditions:

  • After acquiring a new plant, it is necessary to keep it about one month apart from other plants, otherwise all the flowers will hurt.
  • Periodically it is necessary to inspect the plants, check for pests, damage to the leaves and flowers, the condition of the roots. At the slightest suspicion, the flower should be placed in a dry room separately from other plants.
  • Orchid Phalaenopsis loves high humidity, with insufficient moisture the plant can get sick.
  • Lighting should be long lasting. In winter, you can increase the length of day with the help of fitolamps.

The Phalaenopsis orchid is a very beautiful and spectacular plant, so it is worthwhile to properly care for it. Moreover, that competent care will help avoid the appearance of pests and diseases.

The orchid does not bloom

In order not to worry about the flowering of the orchid, even during the purchase it is necessary to clarify what kind of variety it is and what period of flowering it has. The fact is that different types of flower bloom at different times. But it happens that the expected flowering does not occur, while the green mass continues to grow. The main reasons for the lack of buds are the following:

  • sudden changes in temperature
  • improper watering
  • rest violation,
  • lack of light.

The lack of light is indicated by the color of the leaves: they turn bright green, while their natural color is light green. If the leaves turn yellow, it indicates an excess amount of ultraviolet radiation, that is, excessive light. Control measures: the flower must be placed in a more lighted place or removed in partial shade.

Another common problem in the absence of flowering - root diseases. It is difficult to determine. Sometimes, even when the roots are rotting, the orchid continues to bloom.

But if it didn’t please the flowering for a long time, and the lighting is OK, you should check the root system. Most often, it begins to rot due to excessive watering.

In this case, plant transplantation and the removal of damaged parts of rhizomes will help. Periodic transplantation is basically beneficial for its development.

Orchid buds fade

As a rule, in this case, the problems are the same as described above. But there may be additional reasons. First of all, the orchid very sensitively reacts to the change of residence. If you recently bought it and brought it home, it is not surprising that orchid buds wither and fall.

In addition, there may be problems with hypothermia orchids. These are very thermophilic plants, so you should make sure that in winter the temperature in the room does not fall below 22 ° C. Please note that the humidity of the air must be at least 70%, otherwise the flowers will also begin to fall.

Orchid loves good air circulation, but does not tolerate drafts. She also reacts sharply to the presence of a number of different foods, especially fruits and vegetables that produce ethylene. It provokes accelerated ripening of buds, which can wither and fall off without even revealing.

Another reason for wilting buds can be pests. In particular, the mealybug feeds on their sap, leading to the premature death of the bud.

Do not forget that wilting and flowers fall off is a natural process. The duration of flowering in different varieties is also unequal. Some please with motley flowers for several months, others for several weeks. It is likely that you bought the plant after flowering.

Dark spots on the flowers

Sometimes they are not caused by disease, but by due to mechanical damage during transportation of the plant. Such spots do not spread along the flower, they dry up, they have uneven edges.

However spotting may occur due to moisture getting on the petals during irrigation or condensation when the plant is transported in a package. Because of this, the flowers can not only become stained, but also fall off.

If at the same time the plant is still in the sun, then a burn may occur in the places where water gets on the petals - the water will work as a lens.

Brown Bacterial Rot

The plant appears watery light brown spots on the leaves. Mostly young. After some time they darken, grow, gradually merging with each other. Moreover, the lower the ambient temperature, the more abundant the watering, the faster these processes occur.

If you just discovered these signs of orchid disease, you can still help her, cutting out damaged areas with a sharp instrumentby grabbing some healthy tissue. Cut edges should be treated with a preparation containing copper, or crushed coal.

If these manipulations cannot be done, the flower cannot be saved. It is better to get rid of it before the disease has spread to other vases.

The most common types of orchid such as pafiopedilum, cymbidium, cattleya and phalaenopsis are most commonly affected by brown bacterial rot. Prevention of such diseases consists in spraying the plant with a solution of copper sulfate once a month.

Black rot

A fungal disease occurs when the flower is in a too cold room. Especially if the plant was sick or survived the attack of pests before. In this case, the spots on the leaves of the orchid are removed with a sharp and sterile instrument, and the trimmed edges are treated with Bordeaux liquid or charcoal.Next, the plant must be transplanted into another pot or in the same, but pre-sterilized. It is planted in a fresh sterile substrate, and it is necessary to get rid of the former. After transplantation, the plant creates the necessary conditions.

Frequent patients with a similar diagnosis are orchids of the Cattleya and papiopedilum varieties.

Leaf disease: symptoms, prevention and treatment

Orchid diseases can have a viral, bacterial or fungal character and manifest themselves in completely different ways: in the form of raids, stains, rot. Accordingly, for each disease has its own method of treatment.

Most often, this fungal disease affects the leaves of a plant. Tiny, but clear round brown spots appear on them, which increase, connecting with each other. Large affected areas turn black, forming dips. If the plant has been ill for a long time, a pink or yellowish patina may appear on these areas.

The reasons: stagnant water in the leaf axils and high humidity.

Treatment starts with trimming the affected areas. Sections should be treated with ashes or activated carbon, and the plant itself - with preparations containing copper. Processing is carried out three times with intervals of ten days. In this case, it is necessary to reduce watering and completely abandon feeding.

To prevent fungus it is necessary to ensure that the air humidity does not exceed 70% and does not fall below 40%, while regularly and well ventilate the room. Monitor the presence of water in the axils of the leaves and pseudobulb. If she is going there, in time, remove with a napkin or cloth.

Orchids of phalaenopsis, papiopedilum, oncidium, miltonia are mainly susceptible to this disease.

Leaf deformation

Kinks on the leaves can cause ordinary mechanical damage. However, in some cases, they indicate insufficient watering of the orchid or its strong supercooling after watering.

Also pay attention to fertilizers. If they contain too much nitrogen, it can also cause deformation of the leaves of the plant: thickening, cracks, cracks, discoloration to dark green.

To get rid of the problem, it is enough to refuse fertilizer for some time. It is also recommended to wash the roots of the plant and transplant it. Please note that after this procedure, an orchid for some time may be stuck in growth - this is a normal process.

Leaf burn

This kind of damage appears on plants usually in spring and summer. When the sun activity increases. Orchids need light in large quantities, but diffused, and the direct rays of the sun for it, as a rule, are destructive and cause burns.

They provoke similar effects and the remaining droplets of moisture on the leaves and petals. In this case, the water, multiplying the force of the sun's rays many times, contributes to the burning of the leaves - on them appear discolored areas with brown edges. Over time, they dry up, forming holes.

The affected plant should be applied, paying particular attention to watering, but not flooding the flower. Heavily damaged areas should be removed by processing the edges of the slice. Feeding during this period is better not to use.