Like any beautiful plant, peony has centuries of cultural life in gardens and flower gardens, and its past is covered with legends. The Chinese, the greatest admirers of garden luxury, attribute the origin of the peony to the hand of a skilled gardener, who eclipsed the vanity of the evil prince with the beauty of delicate buds. At the end of the legend, the flowers turn into beautiful girls, and it is no coincidence, because the peony is the same rose, but without thorns. How to plant a peony so that every spring “brides” in lush dresses adorn a reviving garden?
Autumn and spring planting
Reasonable gardeners prefer to plant peonies in early autumn. When the plants are planted in advance, they manage to adapt to changes in temperature, successfully survive the winter and in the spring, on the first warm days, they already look out of the ground with dark red shoots.
Peony is considered a passion flower, a symbol of love that suddenly appeared. What to do when the dream of a flowering bush comes unplanned, with the spring wind? In this case, you can try to plant it in the spring: many varieties of peonies are extremely unpretentious.
Peony planting methods in spring
Garden peonies are propagated by dividing a bush, buying seedlings in a nursery or writing out by mail. For planting pions in the spring in the soil, the last two options are better suited, since the root of the transport package is in a dormant state. Having received a sapling (rhizome with a part of a dry stalk), it is necessary to place it in the ground as soon as possible. Otherwise, in room heat. buds can grow and subsequently break down when disembarking.
The first spring heat is usually replaced by new frosts, which will certainly destroy the awakened shoots. Freezing is the most common cause of lack of flowering. To avoid this, the seedling is placed in a three-liter pot filled with garden soil, and left in a cellar or on a warmed balcony without access to the sun's rays.
Young peonies planted in spring have time to increase the root mass necessary for wintering. At the same time, the divided old bush, which has already started sprouting, may die or fall behind in development during the spring transplant.
Planting time of pions in open ground
As soon as warm weather is established, the seedling, along with a clod of earth, is placed on a permanent place. For the middle band this is the middle of May., in southern latitudes, you can land in early April, if the air warms up to +10 at night. Requirements for the landing site are:
- lack of draft
- good illumination
- neutral, loose soil,
- Q1 m. on one bush.
If the risk of frost returning is preserved, then the landing site and the escaped shoots carefully cover for the night by building a frame covered with foil.
There are cases when lazy gardeners dig a hole “on the bayonet”, bury the rhizome in it and by the summer a good bush grows from it. If the view is unpretentious enough, and the place was chosen successfully, after a few years it already gives up to a dozen flowers and a developed root system, which, if necessary, is very difficult to destroy.
This option is suitable if the sapling was presented by a neighbor, getting rid of a boring bush of an unknown variety. If for purchased in the kennel rhizome future handsome paid a lot of money, it is better to pre-study how to plant a peony.
One week before disembarking:
- prepare a pit 60 cm deep
- at the bottom lay a drainage of rubble or expanded clay,
- dug up the earth mixed with humus and ash,
- fill the pit and leave the ground to settle.
In the absence of the required week, it is possible to “lay siege” to the ground, pressing it down with your hands or pouring water over it. This is necessary to comply with the correct depth of landing.
The prepared seedling is added so that the buds are under a layer of soil no more than 4 cm thick (the growth buds are at the base of the dry stem). The best soil is weakly alkaline. Frequent watering is not required., but loosening is required. Fertilization starts from the second year of life.
Varieties for planting in the spring
There are more than 5,000 varieties of peonies. Several hundred of them are designed specifically for cultivation in the cold Russian climate. They can be safely planted in the spring and the next year to wait for a good flowering. They are resistant to droughts and diseases. Here are a few favorites of the gardening public, the price of which is from 500 to 1500 rubles for a sapling:
Anastasia - pale pink flowers on strong stems up to a meter. It blooms in June for about a week, grows well, is compact and well preserved in cut form.
Her brighter sister Barbara - dark pink terry flowers with a faint odor. At the end of flowering continues to decorate the garden with a dark green mass of leaves. The underground part of the plant successfully winters even at -40.
Very pale, but fragrant Edens Perfume. Suitable for the middle band. Small cream and pearl flowers.
Red Charm - large spherical, bright red flowers on dense, resistant peduncles. He has a gold medal from the American Peony Society for the optimal combination of decorative and unpretentiousness.
Fluffy pink varenka - domestic variety with amazing linden aroma. Very beautiful June flowers.
Katyusha is a similarly cold-resistant domestic variety, in the shape of a flower it resembles a wild peony: two rows of extreme pale petals surround the broad stamens gathered in a bun. Such a crown shape has recently become fashionable for florist decorators. The smell is weak.
There is no garden area, but only an apartment with a small balcony? In this case, fit dwarf (patio) peonies created for growing in pots. Of course, you can calmly drop them off in early spring and, if necessary, just deposit them in the room overnight. The names of varieties are easy to remember: Moscow, Madrid, Rome, Oslo, London and other European capitals. Patio peonies are afraid of excessive soil moisture.
More about peonies
Heat-loving peonies are found in whole thickets in some regions of the Far North: pos. Khongurey (Nenets Autonomous Region), North Timan and the most extreme zone - Kanin Peninsula in the Barents Sea.
Peonies can be grown from seeds, although this is more like a sport. Seeds are planted only in the fall, they spring up, and begin to bloom only in the fifth year. Since most of the beautiful varieties are hybrids, the result of growing from a seed is unpredictable. However, lovers plant flowers “Without rules” has accumulated a lot of material on how to plant peonies by seed.
Properly planted peony bushes Gardener will delight 5-10 years. It is a pity that the period of flowering of these delicate plants is very short. It takes a whole year to work for a few evenings to enjoy the magnificent peony at times.
How to choose peonies for spring planting
First of all, you need to pay attention to the peony tubers are healthy, juicy and always with live buds. Dry roots, rot or growths on tubers are not allowed. Delenka, cut off from the main bush, is harvested and stored in the fall. It should have 2-3 roots not less than 5 cm long.
The label contains all the information necessary for the grower when choosing certain varieties:
- Peony name,
- A brief description of,
- The number of bushes in the package
- Quality Control Mark,
- Rules for planting flowers.
How to save peonies before planting in the spring, if you prepare the material from the fall yourself?
- To do this, you need to dig a bush, divide it into pieces of 2-4 roots (delenki).
- Sections should be sprinkled with ashes to prevent the development of various fungal diseases.
- After drying in an open area, the delenki are folded in a box, wrapping each into film.
- Store in a cellar or basement, observing humidity. Planting material should not dry out, but excess moisture is also not allowed.
Planting peony in spring in open ground
If you have enough quality planting material, you can plan it to plant in the ground. Practice has shown that peony root suckers begin to grow actively in August-September and in spring-April-May. It is on such dates that we need to start planting new varieties and renewing old bushes. It is necessary to hurry with the work, if the heat comes, because the plant for rooting requires a moderate temperature and sufficient humidity.
A place to land pions should be well lit and protected from the wind. Peonies practically do not bloom in the shade. They do not like a strong wind during the flowering period, as large flowers on the bushes fall apart and fall to the ground.
Preparation of the hole. The top layer of fertile soil is removed and folded separately. The pit should be more than half a meter deep, the same width so that the peony roots fit freely.
A drainage layer is created at the bottom of each pit so that the root can breathe. To this end, fine rubble, sand, expanded clay, etc. are poured into the level of 10–15 centimeters.
Then, on top of the drainage, place the soil not less than a bucket. For its preparation, fertile soil is taken, removed when digging a hole, a bucket of humus or peat is added, and fertilizers are applied (up to 200 g of superphosphate and 300-400 g of ash). The soil with an excess of clay should be diluted with sand, and in the sand to add clay.
The rest of the fertile soil is poured onto the ground mixture poured into the pit. To the edges of the pit should be at least 10 cm.
The prepared peony root is placed in the middle of the hill and covered with earth so that the buds go deeper by 5-7 cm. Bury the roots of the peony is not worth deep, as this will affect its flowering. Tamper them, too, can not, so as not to break the processes of the future bush.
It is necessary to make a small depression around the planted bush, where pour at least a bucket of water. If the loose earth at the same time settles, it is necessary to pour it.
To protect the roots from drying out, it is necessary to mulch the ground around the bushes, adding peat mixture, humus or straw.
Planting is completed and the period of courtship for peonies begins. In the spring, one should not forget about daily watering for the speedy survival of the roots and the growth of the bush. Peonies planted in April are not developing as fast as those that grow in a flower garden since autumn. But with proper care and watering, you can achieve the desired result. Young bushes will delight you with their flowering.
Tree peony planting in spring
Unlike common varieties, tree peony looks much sleeker. He is a garden survivor. May decorate a flower garden 50 years or more. The plant is light-loving, but does not tolerate the direct rays of the sun. And this kind of peony should be planted in a place protected from the wind and where the groundwater is deep.
When planting a tree peony, it is necessary to make a drainage and add bone meal, lime or superphosphate to the ground. Shrubs grow widely, so they are planted at a distance of 1.5 - 2 m.
For planting bushes of tree peony, the autumn period is suitable. But more often they are planted in the spring, because cuttings go on sale in February - March. This type of plant is usually brought from China, which is the historical homeland of the tree peony. There is interesting information that 500-year-old peony bushes have been preserved on Chinese soil, protected by the state as monuments of nature.
Prepared seedlings with an open root system are ready for planting in the ground.
- It is necessary to dig wide and deep holes (70x70 cm), create a drainage layer up to 30 cm (sand, expanded clay, crushed stone).
- Pour the soil mixture from above onto the drainage: fertile soil with the addition of humus (or compost) and superphosphate (can be replaced by ash).
- When installing the seedling in a prepared pit, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck is level with the soil.
- After the roots fall asleep, the ground is slightly compacted and watered abundantly with water.
- Place around the seedling mulch with peat, humus or straw to stop the sharp drying out of the soil during the spring warming period.
Unpretentious plant, planted by all the rules, quickly take root in the area. Over the next two years, tree peony bushes do not require any maintenance, except for watering during the drought period. Only in the third year will need fertilizing bone meal, which fall asleep under each bush, abundantly pouring water.
Among flower growers and gardeners there is an opinion that every flower has a soul. Therefore, it is necessary to love and cherish, the only way to reveal the natural beauty. Without amazing peonies, any flowerbed loses its presentable appearance, pomp and variety of colors. Planting peonies in the spring has become a must-have, changing the floral world for the better!
There are many varieties of peony, so they are divided into groups:
- No terry peonies. Their petals are located in 1-2 rows, the flowers themselves are large and in the center are stamens. Leaves can have the usual form or corrugation.
- Semi-double flowers. The plant is characterized by light and large flowers with stamens in the center and in other places between the petals, the petals themselves are arranged in 7 rows.
- Japanese. The stamens of this group of pions are collected in the center by one pompon, and the petals are located in one or several rows.
- Mixed variety or differently anemic was obtained by crossing Japanese flowers with terry. The flower turned out to be unusual with wide lower petals, located in 1-2 rows. The flowers themselves are tender and large.
- Spherical terry or hemispheres. Flowers form a hemisphere, and when they open, it turns out a beautiful ball.
- Ball shaped crown. Flowers are arranged in three rows, and the upper petals form a ring. The lower petals can be of the same color, but the upper ones are a little bit lighter or darker.
- The arrangement of the petals in the form of a rose. The petals are round and all are the same size. They are wide and large and resemble a rose when blooming.
Planting and growing peonies is an easy task, the main thing is to choose the right plot in this case so that they do not replant. For peony, this is important, because its root system is powerful and the roots quickly go deep into the ground by 1 meter.
For planting should choose sunny place. Perfect plot, where the sun will warm it in the morning. And also in the neighborhood with a peony there can be low trees or bushes that it was under protection all the time. Choose a lowland for planting so that the roots do not rot. Soil may be suitable for soil, but clay soil undesirable. Before planting the plants need to make a mixture of peat, sand and humus in the ground. When sandy soil is necessary to make a nutrient mixture of humus and peat. And if the soil is peaty, then organic fertilizers, wood ash and sand should be added.
Planting in the fall
The best time for planting and transplanting plants is the end of August. 7 days before landing should prepare a place. The pit should be 60x60 in size with a distance of 10 cm between the holes. Drainage from coarse sand and fine crushed stone should be laid on the bottom. Then comes the turn of the nutrient mixture of superphosphate, humus, lime, compost, potassium sulfate and wood ash. All components should be well mixed and laid a dense layer of about 30 cm. Then fill the remaining space with earth and leave for a week.
In a week, the soil will already subside, and it will be possible to plant peonies along with the roots, with a little tamping down with soil. They do not need to be deeply deepened, because otherwise the peony may not bloom in full flowers. It is worth noting that in the first year the plant does not bloom and does not look very nice. Do not be afraid, this is normal, when the flower reaches maturity, it will rise and only then the flowering stage will begin.
Landing in spring
Professional gardeners believe that planting a grassy peony in the springtime is best not to do. But it happens that it is at this time that an excellent planting material comes across and for him to pick up a small pot of up to 3 liters.
Peony should grow there until such time as a favorable time for landing in the ground. The flower is best grown in a dark basement and all the time to maintain the soil in high humidity.
When it becomes warm, then the plant, along with the pot, is buried in the ground in a sunny place and does not touch it until autumn.
Such cultivation will help in the fall to transplant the plant into the prepared soil and not to harm it.
At different times of the year, grassy peony requires different care:
- In the autumn, during planting and replanting, peonies should be gradually prepared for the winter period. Young plants should be ground out or covered with spruce leaves. And the snow will protect the lower shoots from the cold. If the plant is already adult, then be sure to remove from it dry leaves and pruning unsuitable stems. All trash should be burned to get rid of bacteria and diseases. The plant is treated with ash, and before the first frosts a little prune. It is not necessary to cut low stalks to leave shoots above the ground.
- In spring, the plant should be watered abundantly, but not too often. Each bush should be watered with three buckets so that the soil is moist. With the onset of spring, peonies need moisture for the period of budding and flowering. Spring care also includes loosening the soil during watering. When watering should ensure that the leaves were dry, and all the water leaves the roots.
- Summer flower care is reduced to a minimum. Когда цветение закончилось, растение нужно только поливать и рыхлить почву. А также не стоит забывать об уборке сорняков.
В уход за пионом входит также подкормка удобрениями. Весной почву следует полить раствором марганца. When the period of shoot growth begins it is better to feed the bushes with ammonium nitrate solution. When the budding of the plant begins, and this is somewhere in the middle of May, you need to feed it with mineral fertilizers. Once a month in the evening make a nutrient mixture until the end of August. As soon as the peonies ottsvetut, in two weeks, make a mixture of water 10 l, superphosphate 10 gr., Potassium salt 5 gr. It is necessary to alternate mineral fertilizers with organic.
There are two ways of breeding pions:
Seed reproduction with the help of seeds cannot always become a qualitative method. For gardeners, this method is considered long, because the first flowering should be expected only after 5 years.
Flower reproduction by dividing or cuttings is the best way to get new bushes. The procedure must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. The plant should be dug, shaken off excess clay, and the roots washed with water. The division should be done carefully, and the damaged roots removed. Then process all sections with activated charcoal.
Herb peonies are not immune to gray rot. In mid-May, the disease can strike the plant. The disease is caused by the predominance of nitrogen in the soil. This happens when too rainy weather and planting bushes close to each other. To combat the disease, it is necessary to cut and burn the affected areas, and then spray the plant with copper sulfate. And also garlic water per 1 liter should be added to the care and treatment. It is necessary to add 10 gr. garlic in shredded form. At the same time it is necessary to process both a plant, and the soil.
Peonies can still become powdery mildew - a fungus that infects the leaves. They appear white plaque, and you can fight it with soapy water with the addition of vitriol. On one bucket should add 20 grams. vitriol and chopped piece of soap.
Planting and growing peonies does not take a lot of time and effort, even for novice gardeners. Leaving peony also requires a slight, but if everything is done correctly, the plant is able to please with its lush and beautiful flowers. With proper care, the peony grows up to half a century. Magnificent flowering plants can make from any garden a real paradise. The plant is non-capricious and is friendly with any neighbors, therefore it is ideal for garden style.
Rules early spring planting peonies in the garden
In the spring, peony delenki are planted in the open ground as soon as the ground thaws (it does not warm up, but it thaws!). The earlier in spring the peony is planted in the ground, the more successfully it will develop further.
If you tighten the spring with the landing of the peony delenka, waiting for the warm May days, the rhizome will begin to grow above-ground shoots to the detriment of rooting. In turn, the growing young and juicy peony shoots will begin to draw the last vitality from the rootstock. And there was nothing for the planted rhizome to feed on - the young plant had not yet managed to form for this the young suction roots.
The logical result is usually a bad experience of spring planting of pions. After all, if the depleted rhizome of the delenka does not die, then for a long time it will not be able to form a normal root system and plant flower buds.
There are two options for planting peonies in early spring in open ground:
1. If you plan to buy peonies in advance in early spring, then in the fall, prepare landing pits for them. In this case, in the spring you can quickly put the purchased delenki in ready pits, immediately to a permanent place.
2. If the early spring purchase of peonies was not planned, and the landing pits are not prepared in the fall, you will have to dig up the dumplings in a temporary place. As soon as the earth thaws, you must immediately prikopat bought peony delenki (in any seedling bed-flowerbed) until autumn. During the summer, landing pits should be prepared, and in early September, excavated dumplings should be dug out and planted in a permanent place.
Spring planting of peonies in the pots
Once again I emphasize that in early spring, peonies must be planted in the cold ground.
If for some reason you cannot get into your garden in early spring, then you can plant the purchased rhizomes of peonies in pots and keep them in these pots until August-September. But the temperature regime for these plants needs to be created about the same as it would have been when planting peonies in open ground. That is, for them the change of day and night temperatures is obligatory. Moreover, night temperatures are desirable not higher than + 5 ... + 10, and daytime temperatures are not higher than + 14 ... + 20 degrees.
For the rooting of peonies in pots planted in early spring, unheated terraces and loggias are suitable.
The window sill in the room is not suitable, in any case, do not keep in a heated room containers with peonies spring planting!
In the summer, put pots of peonies in partial shade in the garden, water the soil as it dries.
Do not be afraid that you are not always in the country, and the earth in pots with peonies can dry up. Peonies can stay for a long time without watering, although the complete drying out of the soil in pots is undesirable (but this is better than overmoistened soil in a pot).
If, according to weather forecasts, only hot and dry days are expected ahead, then put pots with peonies in strong shade and thick grass. And if they promise cloudy and rainy weather for a long time, then it is better to put pots with peonies in an open place.
In the photo: grassy peonies of the “Coral Charm” and “Coral Beach” varieties
Preparing the pit for planting peony
Peonies can grow in one place up to 25 years. Although after 10-15 years of cultivation in one place the overgrown peony bush is still worth sharing. After all, on very old bushes of peonies the flowers become much smaller.
Landing peony should not be flooded with spring waters.
For peony, full sun is preferable, but partial shade is also possible. The soil should be rich, well drained and loose.
Properly prepared planting pit - the key to success in growing peony.
Planting pits for peonies are always prepared in advance (for autumn planting - in July, and for spring planting - in autumn). By the time the pions are planted, the soil in the pits should settle and become slightly compacted.
If you plant rhizomes of pions in the pits that have just been made, then it is likely that the pions will continue to sink deeper than necessary, along with the settled soil. And this will adversely affect the flowering of pions.
To plant a peony, I dig a hole 60 cm deep, 60-70 cm in diameter.
When planting several pions in a row, it is better to dig a trench. The distance between the centers of neighboring peony bushes must be at least 70 cm.
The upper cultivated layer of soil extracted from the landing pit is set aside for planting, and the deeper-lying marginal land is not suitable for planting.
If there is heavy soil in the garden, it is necessary to pour a layer of drainage (from broken brick, rubble, expanded clay) to the bottom of the planting pit.
The lower part of the landing pit, approximately to the middle of its depth, is filled with a mixture of humus (rotted manure or compost), peat, part of the top fertile land, and mineral fertilizers.
150-200 g of superphosphate, 150-200 g of potassium sulfate are recommended to be added to one plant pit for peony. And on loams it is also customary to add hydrated lime in the amount of 150-200 g.
I don’t particularly bother with grams and fertilizer names. I usually use those fertilizers that are currently at hand. The main thing is that these should not be nitrogenous, but phosphate-potassium fertilizers (it is possible to use complex flower dressings). A handful of this, a handful of this fertilizer, buried manure of rotted wood, bucket riding land, sand of sand (mother has clay in the garden!), Fermented peat, mixed everything in a wheelbarrow - and into a hole. Be sure to lightly tamp the substrate.
This lower layer of the substrate in the planting pit is a nutrient reserve for the future when the peony bush grows and its roots reach the depths.
I prepare the substrate for filling the upper part of the landing pit in approximately the same way as for the lower part, but mineral fertilizers should be added three to four times less. Sometimes it is advised not to add mineral fertilizers to the upper layer of the pit at all, but I add.
I fill the planting hole to the top, with a small hill, with the shrinkage of the soil in the hole, this hill will be equal to the surface of the flowerbed.
In the center of the landing pit, I will definitely insert a sturdy peg tag (according to the excavated trench, we mark with pegs all future pion landing sites).
It doesn’t matter when you plant a peony - in spring or autumn - but remembering exactly where the center of the landing pit is located is sometimes difficult, and if a peg sticks out of the ground, you will not be mistaken.
If the summer is dry, then the prepared landing pits should preferably be watered so that the land in them settles and thickens.
By the time the pions were planted, these prepared pits were ready, survived.
Processing and landing
Before planting, it is advisable to treat a peony delender with any antifungal drug (Maxim, Previkur, etc.). And also process the rhizome with any drug to stimulate the formation of roots (Kornevin, Zircon, others).
The rhizomes of peonies are rarely even, mostly delenki are raskryachёnnye crooked. How to properly arrange in the planting pit this raskoryaku?
No matter how the rhizome of the peony lies in the ground, it is important where its buds are located. Since the peony buds during planting should be at a depth of 3-5 cm from the soil surface, I twist the rhizome in my hands and look for the most convenient location of the buds in the pit.
If you can not find the optimal location of the rhizome, in which all the buds will be in the right plane, then I am guided by the topmost kidney.
It is necessary to strive to ensure that exactly the part of the rhizome with buds appears in the center of the planting hole, and the long asymmetric parts of the pion delenka can be shifted to the edge of the pit.
I also note that when planting a peony, it is better to place the rhizome horizontally, rather than stick it vertically (even if the delenka has the appearance of a long vertical "carrot" with buds at one end).
I dig a recess in the center of the landing pit to the size of the rhizome of peony.
I plant a delenka, falling asleep the rhizome of the earth that has just been dug out of a hole (nothing needs to be added to the ground, all the food for the plant is already in the hole). It is usually not necessary to water the planted rhizomes of peonies only if the weather is very dry.
Early spring planting and shelter of sprouted peony delenka
When early spring planting of pions is often the case, even before planting in the ground, the delenka began to germinate, and the rhizome already has quite long young shoots. How then to plant the awakened peony?
Likewise: in the cold land, despite the possible last snowfalls and return frost.
First, when planting delenki note that the peony buds should be 3-5 cm below the soil surface.
In the case of the already sprouted peony delenka, I lay off 3-5 cm from the base of the sprout, and the rest of the sprout can appear above the soil surface.
Secondly, I am building a shelter above the sprouts of planted peonies planted above the ground.
The best cover option: peony sprouts covering a greenhouse built from a plastic five-liter bottle (with a cut off bottom, without a cork), slightly pressing it into the ground. Over the greenhouse bottle I cover a white agrospan, the ends of which I press to the ground with stones. Under such a reliable shelter, young peony sprouts will feel quite comfortable.
In my opinion, the planted peony delenki do not require any specific care. We care for peonies in about the same way as for all other garden plants, but there are some minor features.
Properly planted peonies have almost no need of nitrogen fertilizers. Adult peony bushes can be fed in the spring with a divorced mullein (but in very small quantities, and only in May).
But mineral phosphate-potash fertilizers should definitely be supplied with peonies - both in spring and in autumn.
Of course, it is more correct to pre-plant mineral fertilizers in water or to close them dry in the root top layer of soil. But I always have no time to do it (measure the grams of fertilizer on a bucket, dilute it with water, etc.), so I spend feeding peonies differently.
In the spring I scatter complex fertilizer with the note “spring” around the bushes of peonies (approximately a matchbox per bush). In autumn, I bring in a similarly “autumn” fertilizer. During the summer, if possible, I feed with wood ash, also scattering around the plants on the soil surface.
Young peony bushes (of the current year’s planting or last year’s) must be periodically processed with Epin-Extra or Zircon. I use both of them, alternating processing. I spend spraying the solution of the drug on the foliage of peonies, according to the instructions. These drugs contribute to more rapid rooting, increase the resistance of young, fragile plants to various diseases, viruses and adverse weather conditions.
Peonies do not like constantly wet soil, so in the Moscow region they often have enough rain without additional irrigation. But, if the summer is very dry, the peonies will need watering.
I water the peonies rarely (no more than once a week), but in large quantities. I usually do this: I just put the hose on a flower bed with peonies (for a couple of hours every two weeks), and periodically move the hose around the flower bed. At the same time, the water does not lash, eroding the soil, but flows quietly and is absorbed into the ground, without forming standing puddles. Naturally, such irrigation is possible only on very loose soil. If the ground is heavy, then it is better to pour 2-3 buckets of water directly under each peony bush.
Prevention of diseases in pions
In my garden, I did not notice any terrible sores, leading to the complete death of plants, to the spread of infections from a particular place throughout the garden (for different types of plants, for plants of the same species).
Yes, plants often get sick after planting in the garden, especially if it is greenhouse plants that are transplanted into the open ground.
Also, peonies do not always feel good after dividing the bushes.
Many plants react poorly to a sharp change in temperature (when very cold and rainy weather comes after prolonged heat, due to watering with ice water in the heat, etc.).
Usually, after the rooting of the plant in a new place, its immunity is strengthened, the plant begins to grow and develop normally.
I believe that if the pre-planting treatment of seedlings and the soil is carried out correctly, to stimulate the strengthening of immunity and the early rooting of a young plant, then possible diseases recede - they do not touch healthy and strong plants.
Of course, there are exceptions: initially weak, sickly varieties that no matter how much heal, they will still hurt (apparently, this is genetically inherent in them, they do not know how to resist diseases). Such plants can sit for years (just sit, not grow) in the garden and hurt, but not die. Many gardeners do not want to mess with them - they quickly remove such underdeveloped plants from the site and forget about them.
But there are also many gardeners who are ready to constantly treat some kind of weak, but very favorite variety, and often they manage to get a good result - after all, plants also feel love and care.
It is possible to eliminate the appearance and reduce the spread of diseases in pions by simple preventive methods:
- do not plant bushes of peonies too often, thickening of plantings promotes the spread of viruses,
- observe the mode of watering, in no case do not water the peonies in the heat with ice well water,
- if the place of landing of peonies is low, close to the groundwater, provide the bushes with very good drainage or refuse to plant peonies at all in the unfavorable part of the garden.
In the photo: grassy peonies varieties "Celebrity" and "Etched Salmon"
Neighborhood peonies with other plants
Peony bloom peak occurs at the very beginning of summer. Peony bush after flowering looks quite decorative due to the beautiful carved foliage, but you want bright colors all summer!
For example, if a peony bush is located in a mixborder or on a flower bed next to other plants, then there is no problem - one plant has faded, and the other blooms.
But the flower beds, consisting of some peonies, most of the summer are just green. I advise such flower beds to “dilute” with tall perennials that are not prone to strong growth, blooming in the second half of summer. Against the background of thick green foliage of peonies, plants with bright flowers look good.
I tested many plants as neighbors of peonies. In my opinion, lilies and phloxes cope best with this role.
The advantages of using lilies in peony plantings:
- The conditions for growing lilies and peonies are very similar: they do not require frequent watering and nitrogen supplements, they are afraid of vyprevaniya,
- You can easily pick up high varieties of lilies with different flowering periods, so a flower garden with peonies and lilies will always be flowering.
Phlox paniculata bloom long and magnificently. Choose high varieties of phlox with different periods of flowering work will not be.
Although phlox agrotechnology differs from peony agrotechnology, their proximity is still quite possible. Since phloxes are rather moisture-loving, watering a flower garden with peonies and phloxes will be more frequent. Но на пионах это не отразится отрицательно, поскольку флоксы очень быстро «откачают» воду из цветника.
Флоксам по весне необходимо чуть больше азотных подкормок, чем пионам, и необходимо окучивание по осени. Но если флоксы подкармливать и окучивать точечно, то на пионах это тоже не отразится.
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