Planting gooseberries in the spring is a very important matter. Many inexperienced gardeners are afraid to plant seedlings at the site because they do not know how to do it in spring. Planting seedlings should be properly, carefully choosing a place. Yield depends on the right choice of a place for planting in the spring, when the seedlings will turn into a large spreading shrub.
How to plant gooseberries in the spring? So that he felt comfortable. For more than forty years this shrub can quietly grow in the same place, without taking nutrients from the soil, therefore a lot depends on the right choice of a place for planting seedlings. It is also very important to choose the right seedlings for planting gooseberries. Planting shrubs is easy, but this business requires a certain dexterity and skill.
Those who decided to plant this plant in the garden will never regret it. With proper care, this shrub will surely delight the gardener with delicious large berries that are so good in the famous “royal” jam. You can plant on the site, not even one, but several varieties of this wonderful berries.
Planting seedlings in the spring: how to choose a place to plant
Choose a place to land with the mind. It belongs to those plants that can grow for decades in one place, while the yield and taste of the berries do not suffer. When choosing a place to land, consider the following:
- Many gardeners plant it with red, white or black currants, because the care of these shrubs is about the same. However, this is not recommended. Currants and gooseberries have common diseases and pests, such as aphid and powdery mildew. If a currant suffers from diseases and is affected by parasites, a healthy seedling can become infected with it later, and vice versa. Joint planting of currants and gooseberries significantly complicates the fight against pests, parasites and fungal diseases,
- Berry loves lighted places. Many gardeners are accustomed to plant berry bushes "in the old fashioned way", along the perimeter of the backyard. However, for him this is not the best option. On the contrary, it is better to plant it in the center of the plot and, if possible, on a small elevation,
- Unlike its currant cousin, this shrub has thorns that make harvest harder. In this regard, you need to plant a bush so that to him from all sides there is a free passage,
- It is not necessary to plant seedlings in the shade of spreading fruit and berry trees (cherries, plums, apples, pears, black chokeberry), because with their shadow they will obscure the sun, and this will negatively affect the productivity of the gooseberry bush.
How to prepare the soil
Shrub loves well-fertilized and fertile soil. In preparing the land for spring planting of seedlings, the following should be kept in mind:
- Before landing, it is necessary to put manure or humus into the ground. Peat is also suitable. You can pour into the pit, intended for planting shrubs, a little ground egg shells, because it contains useful calcium,
- It is necessary to plant the seedlings in the spring during the day when the earth is already warm. In the morning, when it is still cold, and in the evening after sunset, when the earth begins to cool, the cold soil can become an additional stress for the seedling, and it will not take root. The same rules must be observed when planning a planting in the fall. An ideal day for planting - not hot, but sunny,
- If the day is very baking, it is better to move the landing for the evening, as under the scorching sun tender seedlings can wither. It is not necessary to plant a bush on a rainy or foggy day, since the increased air humidity during planting is one of the reasons for the rapid spread of fungus and rotting of the plant’s root system,
- Many gardeners do extra work, digging up whole trenches for currants and gooseberries, like trenches during World War II. This is a common misconception: it is believed that in the trench the shrub will feel freer. In fact, it is enough to dig an ordinary hole for a seedling. The main thing is that it is sufficiently deep and wide, since it has a developed root system.
The place where the bush will grow, it is desirable to fence. If the site often children, it is advisable, if possible, to build a small wooden fence around the thorny bush so that the restless young people of the summer community do not inject themselves by picking berries.
How to choose and prepare seedlings for planting
It is best to purchase seedlings in specialized stores or nurseries. Before you go shopping, a novice gardener must decide which sort of gooseberry he wants to plant on the site. Varieties are different: early ripening, mid-ripening and late. The plant is often called the "northern grapes", and there is some truth in this: its ripe berries really resemble grapes. In some varieties of gooseberry, ripe berries have a yellow color.and some pink. According to their taste, they are about the same.
Deciding on a grade, you can purchase seedlings. When buying, you should pay attention to the following important points:
- The seedling should have bright green leaves, without brown and white spots,
- If the leaves are deformed or twisted into a tube, most likely the aphid has already “worked” over this seedling - a dangerous pest,
- A healthy seedling should have a strong and resilient stem,
- If the roots have a whitish or gray patina, this is a sign of a fungal infection. Most often, those seedlings that were stored in the wrong conditions, for example, in a room with high humidity, are infected with a fungus.
Purchased planting material must be properly prepared for planting. Many amateur gardeners complain that gooseberry cuttings do not survive well and grow very slowly, despite the sunny, well-lit landing site. Indeed, the young gooseberry develops very slowly. To solve this problem, domestic agrochemical plants for many years produce special solutions - "growth stimulants". Before planting, soak the roots of seedlings in such a solution. Knowledge of this little secret will help accelerate the growth and development of young shoots in a new place.
Growing gooseberries from seeds is not worth it, because it is quite troublesome.
When buying seedlings, an inexperienced gardener can easily confuse a gooseberry with a currant, because the cuttings of these plants are very similar. However, if you look closely, there are already visible rudiments of characteristic thorns on gooseberry saplings. It is on this basis that one plant can be easily distinguished from another.
Those who want to save money on the purchase of seedlings can borrow them from the neighbors of experienced gardeners. However, in this case is great the likelihood that the sapling will be infected with aphids or powdery mildew, because these diseases and parasites are found in every second household plot. A gardener who has decided to purchase gooseberry saplings from a neighbor should certainly visit his neighbor and inspect the shrub that the cuttings were from. If the shrub looks weakened or infected with an infection, and there are aphids on the leaves, it is better to politely refuse the proposed seedlings.
Planting gooseberry seedlings in spring: a general description of the process
When the seedlings are prepared, you can start planting. The sequence of actions will be as follows:
- You need to take a shovel and dig a neat hole,
- Garbage and small stones must be removed from the pit,
- Next, the gardener with one hand holds the sapling at the base, and with the other hand gently places it in the pit and sprinkles it with earth. You can also add to the pit of peat and egg shells ground to powder.
- When the hole is filled with earth, the soil around the gooseberry must be tamped down. The soil should be loose enough to pass air and moisture well. In no case should not tamp the soil to a solid state,
- After planting the seedling is watered. It is necessary to water from a watering can, having directed its nose down, but not from a hose, because from the strong pressure of water a tender seedling can bend or even break.
After the seedling has taken root, it is necessary to carefully care for him. Young shoots of gooseberry require regular watering. They also need additional nutrition.. For feeding, you can use mullein, diluted with water, and complex mineral fertilizers for berry bushes, which are sold in specialized stores. With proper care, the sapling begins to develop intensively and soon turns into a full-fledged bush. Winter-hardy gooseberry varieties do not need shelter for the winter. But the more southern, thermophilic varieties for the winter must necessarily cover. If the gardener does not have time to come up with a shelter for the gooseberry, it is better to initially acquire varieties that are resistant to frost and rapid temperature changes.
Domestic breeders Recently, new gooseberry varieties, possessing strong powdery mildew immunity, have been actively developed. Saplings of such varieties have a rather high cost. However, planting these varieties can significantly increase the yield of gooseberries, and also allows you to avoid a long struggle with powdery mildew. Therefore, if there is an increased humidity on the plot, and the place for the gooseberry is selected in the lowland, it is best to purchase just such a variety.
Those who have ever planted gooseberries on their plot know that this shrub is quite picky about running. However, many gardeners traditionally treat planting of berry crops with disdain and try to plant them in any free space.
For example, gooseberries are often planted where there is nothing to simply "fill in the empty space." So you can not do. Any berry bushes, including gooseberries, should grow in a designated place.
One of the corners of the garden plot should be taken under the berry. So it will be more convenient to care for the bushes and harvest.
When group planting gooseberry bushes must be kept at a sufficient distance from each other. So it will be easier to feed the plants, water and loosen the soil. In addition, the gooseberry feels much more comfortable in the open. Recommended schemes for group planting of gooseberry bushes can be found on the Internet and in specialized literature for gardeners. There you can also tell about the distinctive features of various varieties of this berry bush, and there are a great many varieties of these. Most often in the Russian middle zone in areas you can find gooseberries with dark pink large berries, this variety is called "Pink Giant". However, gooseberry bushes with yellow fruits are also not uncommon.
Planting gooseberries on the plot is undoubtedly worth it, because its berries are very tasty and healthy. You can make a wonderful “royal” jam from green, unripe berries, and pink gooseberry fruits with a delicate sweet-sour taste can be eaten fresh. Gooseberry is very rich in vitamins. Children and adults with great pleasure eat ripe berries gooseberry. And if the gooseberry and currant grow on the plot, you can make a very tasty compote from these berries.
In order to properly implement the planting of gooseberry seedlings, it is necessary, first of all, to carefully study the basic needs of this berry bush. There are very few of these needs: space, sun, good lighting and no shadow, proper organization of the drainage system. If you take into account these needs when choosing a site for planting, the seedling will successfully take root and will long delight summer residents with their wonderful fruits.
What is it - the best place for the growth of gooseberry
Weakly acid loose soil is an ideal place for planting gooseberry in spring with seedlings. The plant feels comfortable in loamy and sandy soil. However, when landing in loam, the landing technology provides for an angular inclination of 45 0. This planting is necessary for additional root formation and strengthening, because the plant roots are hard to break through the clay layer.
Gooseberry loves the sun, but at the same time, the bush needs protection from direct scorching sunlight. An excellent screen-protection from the sun will serve the plant seedlings of fruit trees, planted at a distance of 2 meters.
To plant bushes of this plant can be along the fence, and near buildings, and even on the border between the neighbors. It seems that they, too, will not mind eating delicious fruits in a neighborly way.
Bad neighbors and good
Before proceeding to planting gooseberries in the spring with seedlings, it would not hurt, to know better about its morphological relationship.
Surely, before planting gooseberry saplings in the garden, there was something on this spot. So, take note:
Gooseberries are not planted in the place where raspberries or currants grew.
There are several reasons for this:
- these cultures have common enemies: weevil, sawfly, spider mite, aphid and moth,
- cultures are subject to the same diseases - chlorosis, powdery mildew, mosaic, septoria,
- the planned landing site has already been exhausted by raspberries and currant bushes, it needs rest.
An ideal place for planting cuttings of currants will be the former vegetable garden, where roots or legumes used to grow.
Planted alone gooseberry seedling
What pests are dangerous for shrubs
The growth of this crop in the garden can be prevented by various pests. We will tell you about the most common ones in our strip:
- the emergence of bare branches on the bush provokes a glutton caterpillar sawfighter,
- a gray butterfly causes irreparable harm
- folded, skinny leaves - this is the work of a leisurely aphid,
- in rusty spots on the leaves to blame rust rust.
Obzhorka - pest gooseberry
How to prepare a hole for planting gooseberry cuttings
Proper planting of gooseberries provides a whole range of preparatory work, ranging from the choice of variety and ending with the digging of the pit.
Before digging a hole, it is necessary to clear the space for it, removing creeping weeds. Cleaning the soil from weeds is mandatory for the following reasons:
- after weeding after planting the shrub, you risk tearing off its delicate roots, pulling out the grass,
- weeds eat mineral dressing, and it does not get to the destination,
- after thorough cleaning, the subsequent weeding will take away a minimum of time.
Agronomists recommends preparing a seat 3 weeks before disembarking. It is necessary to let the ground settle. The procedure of early preparation also prevents the possible deepening of the bushes during planting, watering and soil compaction.
When digging holes recommended to adhere to the following parameters:
- depth and width in equal proportion 50 * 50 cm.
Pay attention to the composition of the soil, the poorer the ground, the deeper and wider the pit.
When the seat is ready, it is necessary to fill it with 2/3 nutrient substrate. Mineral fertilizers are used as a substrate in the following proportions:
- 10 kg. humus,
- 100 grams of superphosphate,
- 40 grams of potassium salt.
Regular wood ash can be used instead of potassium salt.
Tips of experienced agronomists: Gooseberry seedlings are planted vertically, if at the site loose soil and obliquely in loam. When planting neatly relate not only to the taproot, but also to the "overgrowing" - they feed the bush.
Feed roots can not be removed
Preparing gooseberry cuttings for transplanting into the ground
The question of how to plant a gooseberry in spring with seedlings is of concern to many gardeners. Before proceeding to transplanting, carefully consider the selection and inspection of planting material. Ideal for planting - plants up to two years old.
The older the shrub, the longer and harder it takes root.
The following criteria speak about the quality of planting material:
- developed root system - at least 3 skeletal roots,
- an impressive bunch of thin "feeding roots,
- light shade on the root cut,
- shoot length of 30 cm and a thickness of not less than 50 mm.,
- wet buds.
If you purchased in the nursery seedlings of fruit bushes with an open root system, carefully examine them and remove the torn fragments of roots. If this is not done, the process of decay will not pass the future bush.
It looks like healthy roots gooseberry bushes
What should be alerted when choosing saplings:
- dark cut root - says that the plant is not viable,
- dark spots of shoots - we are talking about such a disease as mealy dew.
Before planting, gooseberry seedlings must be treated with a growth biostimulator. There is a sufficient range of products on the market - Kornevin, Sodium Humate, Zircon.
In addition to the stimulant, experienced agronomists dipped the rhizome into a clay mash. This further protects the roots of the plant from drying out.
Possible landing patterns
Planting gooseberry spring seedlings from the container is carried out by three methods:
Разреженный метод базируется на схеме 1,5*2 м, где 1,5 – это расстояние в ряду, а 2 – ширина междурядья.
Суть комбинированного метода сводится к высадке растений с двухразовым прореживанием. Кусты высаживают на расстоянии 75 см. друг от друга, оставляя около метра в междурядье. Через год прореживают кусты через один, спустя год прореживание снова повторяют.
The interrow method is based on planting bushes between fruit trees. When the crowns of trees begin to close, gooseberry bushes are transplanted. The adult bush is dug, trying to dig around it in a circle at a distance of about 30 cm from the center. Then take out with a lump of earth and transplanted to a new place.
How to plant a gooseberry - step by step instructions
When planting this culture, only two stages are observed - preparatory work and direct landing in the ground.
At the preparatory stage, the following actions are performed:
- Marking plot with a peg and cord.
- Digging a hole.
- The distribution of excavated land is upper for subsequent works, lower in the aisle for mulching.
- The top layer of the earth is mixed with fertilizer.
- Fill the pit for 2/3 with nutrient compost.
- Pour one bucket of water.
Planting gooseberry seedlings with closed root system
10 days after the preparatory work proceed to the second stage - landing. Within this stage the following actions are carried out:
- Compost in the pit is formed in the form of a mound.
- A mound sprinkled with ordinary earth.
- Lightly moistened, not to the extreme swamp.
- In the center of the pit is placed a peg-support.
- Lower the seedling on a mound, straighten the roots.
- Sprinkle roots with compost, slightly shaking the seedling.
- Condense earth around the plant.
- Formed around the circumference of the hole, and pour in about 10 liters of water.
- Conduct mulching with compost.
- Next, the trimming procedure - the branches are shortened to 20 cm, leaving no more than 2 buds on them.
Recommendations for the care of planted gooseberry bushes
Some time after planting, weeding, loosening and timely watering are required. Loosening is carried out at a depth of about 4 centimeters. During the season it is recommended to water the bush no more than 5 times.
Spreading varieties require additional garters or installation of props.
Standard gooseberry on the support
In the fall, sanitary pruning is carried out with the removal of dry and diseased branches. In the second year after planting, soil is cultivated and fertilizers are applied in the form of ammonium nitrate. After collecting the fruits, the shrubs are sprayed with fungicidal solutions. You can buy saplings of fruit bushes in an assortment of varieties now. Take care of the diversity of fruit crops in your garden now!
Planting in the autumn
Basically, it is this time of year that is the most favorable for planting the seedling in open ground.
- The root system of a plant survives better during this period of time. New processes that the root starts up develop better at low temperatures.
- During winter, the soil is well compacted around the root in the process of sedimentation.
- The plant has time to adapt, and in spring the bush begins to actively bloom, and in summer, the first berries may appear.
If you decide to plant a gooseberry bush in the fall, then the best time will be from the second half of September to the first decade of October.
Planting gooseberry seedlings in spring
- At this time of year, landing is much less common. And there are reasons for this: root processes develop much more slowly. As a result - the possible lack of harvest in the current year.
- Usually, this method is used when planting of saplings in the fall for some reason did not work out.
- It is advisable to wait until the snow melts completely, and the soil dries a little. At the same time, it is not worthwhile to delay the planting time too much, until the seedling process begins.
- When choosing a planting date, first of all you need to focus on the climate and weather conditions of your region. In the fall, planting takes place about a month and a half before the onset of the first serious frosts. This time is needed to adapt the seedling.
- In spring, it is advisable to wait until the last snow melts. But to have time to plant a shrub sapling until the buds are swollen. In this case, the landing can not be carried out.
- Varieties and types of gooseberries that have an open root system, experts recommend planting only in the autumn.
- When saplings are planted, the distance between them must be at least several meters in order for adult bushes to have sufficient distance for growth and development. If the gooseberry variety is dwarfed, then the distance can be slightly reduced (to about 1 m).
- Before planting, regardless of the time and period, pruning should be carried out in such a way that no more than 5 healthy buds remain on each shoot. This will help the bush to grow in width, and, subsequently, increase yields.
Soil preparation and site selection
When choosing a permanent place for the bush should consider several requirements.
- The place should be well lit by the sun, and near shading tall trees or barriers. On the shady side of the gooseberry will be extremely low yields.
- In order not to take nutrients from the root system of the bush necessary for growth and active development, it is not recommended to plant large shrubs or tall trees near the plant.
- The place chosen for landing should be well ventilated and protected from drafts and sudden gusts of wind. The northern side of the plot and the shadow can simply destroy the seedling.
- If the groundwater flows too close to the soil surface, then it is recommended to plant the plant on a specially constructed small knoll. Otherwise, the root system may start to rot and the bush may die.
- Gooseberry loves fertile soil rich in organic elements. If the soil is poor in composition, it is required to fertilize it before planting. You can make rotted manure, compost and vegetable humus
- Do not be afraid that fertilizers will be too aggressive for the root and the plant as a whole. Organics perfectly feed the gooseberries and contribute to better yields and growth.
- In each case, you need to look at how and in what quantity the soil should be fertilized. If necessary, some gardeners additionally contribute urea, superphosphates or potassium chloride. The latter also protects the bush from fungal infections.
Planting seedlings in open ground
There is nothing particularly difficult in this procedure. Perform all actions in order.
- Before planting, it is required to clean the soil from weeds, debris and dig a planting hole. Depending on what the root system of your gooseberry seedlings, and the hole should be the appropriate size. Usually enough depth and volume of about half a meter.
- When digging the planting pit, layers of soil should be separated, since they are different in composition and the level of fertility is also different.
- The composition of the soil mixture is quite possible to prepare yourself. To do this, take a bucket of humus or compost, about 300 grams of wood ash, 200 - 300 grams of superphosphate, if there is no ash, then you can add 60 grams of fertilizer, which contains potassium. The composition also adds a little lime. The whole mixture is thoroughly mixed.
- Next, one bucket of the prepared mixture is poured into a prepared pit.
- On the sprinkled fertilizer on top, a layer of earth is poured, laid aside. The thickness of this layer should not exceed about 10 - 12 cm. The soil should be poured with a small hill on which the seedling is installed.
- The root system must be very well straightened and set the bush in such a way that it stood exactly in the center. It is recommended not to allow the seedling to tilt.
- On top of the root system, you need to pour the lowest layer of soil that you extracted when digging the hole.
- Before filling the next layer of earth should moisten the soil. In total on landing of each sapling about 10 liters of water are used.
- After filling each layer, the soil needs to be slightly compacted so that no voids form in the root system.
- The root neck of the seedling should be 5 cm deep into the soil. After that, the soil is moistened again. At this landing process should be considered complete.
Caring for seedlings after planting
There are some rules, the implementation of which will allow the bush to settle down and adapt after the planting procedure. The amount of the harvest depends on compliance with the recommendations.
- When the seedling is already planted, then you need to mulch it. For this, humus and peat are used, but it is also possible to use dry earth.
- After a few days, be sure to carefully water the young plant. Water can be used a little more than when planting.
- Then you also need to grind the soil. This procedure should be done every time you water a seedling, as well as after heavy rainfall.
- after planting the seedling in open ground, it is recommended to cut off the shoots to 4 - 6 buds. This will allow the plant to grow and grow shoots. Only in this case, the gooseberry has enough strength and nutrition for active growth.
- In the following years pruning is a regular procedure. It will help to correctly form a bush.
- Immediately after planting the seedling in the soil and then several times in a season, the plant should be fed and fertilized. Potassium chloride, superphosphate, nitrate is used as components, and the basis should be either humus or rotted compost.
- The gooseberry is practically not exposed to diseases, infections and attacks of pests. However, some insects can still attack a sapling. To do this, under the root system of the bush need to pour solutions of baking soda, karbofos, wood ash or vitriol.
- It is not recommended to process the root system without growth stimulants, because most likely the sellers have already done this procedure when buying. Overdose can destroy the plant.
- Experts do not advise planting young plants near or among vegetable crops. They are able to take most of the nutrients, which leads to low yields and poor development.
When is it best to plant gooseberries?
In the best way the gooseberry fruits in the first 12-15 years, and then the yield drops noticeably. Therefore, it has to be updated from time to time. There are many types of gooseberries with and without thorns, of all sorts of colors and flavor characteristics, so the choice of varieties will not cause difficulties. But when it is possible to carry out the procedure of landing?
According to experts, the gooseberry can be planted only in the dormant period - in the autumn after the leaves fall completely or in early spring. In the autumn, not everyone is at risk of carrying out the procedure, yet the plant may not endure strong frosts, fail to take root, take root poorly, with the result that it is necessary to repeat the procedure in spring. And this is not only a waste of extra energy, but also of funds. Therefore, if the climate is cold, it is not worth the risk, it is easier to transfer work to the early spring.
In the spring gooseberries can be planted before he wakes up from winter. Since the plant is awakening early, then in early April all work must be completed.
How to prepare a sapling?
It is not enough to know how to plant gooseberries in the spring, it is necessary to know and how to choose the seedlings. The plant can be bought or taken from someone, but not any sapling can be taken - only a 1-2 year old gooseberry will quickly take root in a new place. It should have a couple of stiff, the main root is not shorter than 15-20 cm, as well as well-developed lateral roots. The ground part of the plant should consist of 1 or more branches 40 cm long. When inspecting, it is desirable to pay attention to the quality of the pagons and roots, they must be healthy, strong, and free from damage.
After purchase, all dry branches or rotten roots are removed, if any. It is desirable that they were not already at purchase. It is important not to leave the roots for a long time without water or earth, they quickly dry out and become unviable.
Preparation for landing is very simple. In fact, it is necessary to let the roots get drunk by dropping them into cool, but not icy, water. If desired, the roots can be treated with growth biostimulants. Any means, for example, “Kornevin”, “Zircon” or “Appin” will be suitable for this.
How to plant a gooseberry in the spring
Gooseberry grows compact bushes, up to 120–130 cm high. Stems are covered with folded bark and many spines. Leaves outwardly inexpressive, rounded elongated shape. Flowering occurs in May, and fruiting - in July - August. The berries are round, measuring 12–15 mm, with visible streaks of white or green. Fruits can be red, light green or black color schemes. Grown in different regions, but not everywhere ripens.
Novice gardeners are interested in how to plant gooseberries in the spring and care for them. After all, the success of the whole event depends on it. It should be noted that it is right to plant the seedlings immediately to the place of their constant growth. With proper care, berries can be enjoyed for 30–35 years.
Selection of a plot for planting gooseberry
Gooseberry grows better and bears fruit on well-lit areas protected from gusting winds. There should not be a close flow of groundwater. It prefers free space, so you should not plant bushes close. The optimum interval is observed in 1.5 m, which greatly facilitates the care of him.
With regard to the composition of the soil, there are no special claims, only in an acidic and marshy environment it withers.
From the autumn you need to take care about a place for planting gooseberries. Poor soil composition is required to saturate with all necessary. Digging holes in the ordinary sequence. Their size depends on the condition of the land; the worse it is, the bigger the hole. Ideally, the depth is 60 cm, and the diameter is 35–40 cm. At the bottom they fall asleep: superphosphate, potash salts, and organic. This may be compost manure. The excavated upper layer returns back, and the lower layer is scattered over the territory. Then enough water is poured in and left until spring.
Selection of seedlings
It is advisable to purchase seedlings at the age of 1-2 years, with a well-developed root system. The main thing to pay attention to:
- Roots should have a fibrous-fluffy structure. Be sure to have several main rhizomes, a length of at least 15 cm and many small branches.
- Healthy color at the roots - yellowish-whitish, without any darkening.
- The aboveground component is 2–3 strong shoots with a height of at least 40 cm and without obvious damage.
- When buying in autumn, the state of the foliage is clearly visible. It should be green, without yellowness.
In the spring, without a certain experience, it is difficult to determine the quality of seed. Most try to plant seedlings in the fall. Then the roots take root better and the yield is much higher.
The roots die quickly in the open air, so Immediately need to move to planting gooseberries. Before this, they are processed by any growth stimulant, and the shoots are sprayed with a biological adaptogen. Aloe, zircon or epin juice is used. While making all the manipulations, the roots are wrapped in polyethylene, so as not to dry.
With the onset of spring heat, buds immediately begin to swell. For this reason, plant very early and quickly. Roughly, this is in April. In hot and arid weather, the plant may not settle down.
Before landing, gooseberry branches are selectively pruned, leaving the strongest. Shortening the roots is necessary if they do not fit in a prepared pit. Inexperienced gardeners, they regret cutting off the shoots, planting them entirely. As a result, multiple buds, when blooming, take a greater amount of moisture and nutrients from the roots. Therefore, they can not grow in full for a long time. Then the flowering and fruiting, significantly, will be postponed in time.
It is common for the gooseberry root system to form additional roots that give additional nourishment to the whole plant. Because of this, they plant it much deeper than in the nursery. This planting on sandy soils leads to activation of growth. If the soil is heavy clayey, then the lower layers warm up for a long time. Weak roots still die in such conditions. The kidneys have to feed on young, superficial indigenous processes. This is not enough for them and there is a slowdown in development. To exclude a similar outcome, saplings are planted at an angle.
To increase the yield from one unit, several bushes are placed in one well. It is advisable to keep a distance of between 15–20 cm.
Spring Gooseberry Planting Technology
Step-by-step actions that must be followed:
- The starting point of growth, usually located at the junction of the base of the stem and the roots, is determined. So, this mark should not be burrowed. But too overestimate it is not recommended. Then the young shoots start to dry quickly and die.
- At the bottom of the hole poured a hill on which the seedling is installed. Roots neatly distributed throughout the inner space. It is more convenient when one person holds the shrub at the top of the head, while another engages in burying
- When falling asleep with the ground, the roots periodically shake without lifting. This will help better seal the ground.
- Lacking to the very edge, we do a lot of moisture, and bring the rest of the earth.
Finally, wait until the moisture is completely absorbed, and cover the surface with mulch. This may be peat, sawdust or sand.
Многие высаживают крыжовник и забывают, что за ним требуется ещё уход. Молодым посадкам крыжовника противопоказано прямое воздействие солнечных лучей. У них не хватает сил противостоять такому напору. В этом случае сооружается небольшой полог из светлой ткани.
Один раз в семь дней осуществляют полив. А вот при осенней высадке, этого не потребовалось бы. In the first 2 years, no additional fertilizing is necessary. The plant feeds by mixing into the planting well. In the future it is supposed to fertilize 2 times a year: before flowering and with the onset of fruiting. Humus is used in large volumes, with a small admixture of mineral additives.
Before the first winteringThe bushes are covered with special material and sprinkled with spruce branches. Then you can get by throwing snow.
Gooseberry plantations are particularly susceptible to powdery mildew. This fungal disease spreads furiously throughout the aerial. A clear sign - a white patina, gradually transforming into a dark brown color. All that is affected by this fungus, soon dries and dies.
In order to avoid this, in early spring they sanitize the bushes with copper sulphate. Intensive spread can be stalled. It is necessary to spray with an aqueous solution of soda salt. Opponents of chemistry, it is recommended to use The following organic compounds:
- The rotted manure is poured with three liters of water, insisting for several days. Then dilute it to 10 liters. This spray plants three times a week.
- Whey with water, in a ratio of 1:10.
Similar procedures are carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening.
Under no circumstances is soil being tamped. after planting gooseberry. Even the slightest pat can be disastrous for young roots. Enough poured water that berёt over the sealing function. In the near-foot zone, in a circle, earthen bumpers rise. This technique will greatly facilitate watering and feeding. All content falls strictly according to its intended purpose, and does not spread to the sides.
Planting soil should be loose and well pass oxygen. The clay structure is diluted with peat, humus and sand. The presence of any weed is unacceptable, since all residues will grow with the gooseberries. This will require frequent loosening, which is undesirable at the initial stage.
Do not make fresh manure or rotted compost. The first - will quickly burn the roots, the second - will absorb all the nitrogen from the earth.
It turns out to plant a gooseberry is not so difficult, and further care is not labor-intensive. At first you have to invest in full, but then you can enjoy ripe and healthy berries. With the right agrotechnical activities, a decent harvest will not keep you waiting long.
Where the gooseberry will be in place
Gooseberry feels good on slightly acid loose soils. For example, in sandy soil the bush develops harmoniously - the root system and the crown are balanced. On heavy loam roots, it is difficult to break down; food is supplied by superficial roots. In this case, an inclined landing at an angle of 45 ° is practiced, thanks to which additional roots — support and nourishment of the bush — are formed on the shoots sprinkled with earth.
In the south, the place for landing is chosen sunny, but at the same time protected from the scorching rays. The open shadow of ornamental or fruit trees that grow at a distance (about 2 m) will become a remarkable translucent screen. And from the strong and cold spring wind the trees also protect perfectly. If the aisles in the garden are wide enough, this will be an ideal place for gooseberries. Beginning from the Middle Band and further in the direction of the north, the lightest places are selected for the gooseberry. Gooseberries are also planted along the walls of the house, a fence, 1.5 m away from the object, so that it is convenient to harvest and preserve good neighborly relations.
In terms of water, the gooseberry likes a middle ground, although it can withstand some discomfort in the form of a “moderate” drought. But the stagnation of water is categorically contraindicated to him, so it can not be planted in temporarily flooded lowlands or where rainwater stagnates. The groundwater level should not exceed 1.5 m. If the site for planting is suitable in terms of lighting, but after the rains remains damp for a long time, it (bed) can be raised. To do this, a sand or gravel pad 15–20 cm thick is arranged on the bottom of the pit, a nutrient substrate is poured in from above and the gooseberry is planted in the usual manner.
Forerunners good and bad
It is unacceptable to plant gooseberries after currants and raspberries, which are in morphological relationship with him, for three reasons:
- The cultures have common pests (gray bud weevil, red currant yellow sawfly, spider moth and bud mite, currant and gooseberry fireweed, aphid).
- They suffer from similar diseases - powdery mildew, scaly rust, septoria, chlorosis, mosaic.
- Because the soil in this place is a priori depleted.
But the vegetable garden after legumes, root crops (potatoes, beets), sideratov, strawberries - will be just right.
Before planting, it is necessary to clear at least 1 m 2 of land under a bush from creeping weeds (bindweed, wheat grass), this needs to be done for several reasons:
- During weeding, the hard rhizomes of the weeds are pulled along behind them, the thin delicate roots of the gooseberries growing close to the surface of the ground are torn off.
- All subsequent weeding will take a minimum of time.
- So that top dressing is not “eaten up” by weeds, but reached for the intended purpose.
- In order to avoid painful scratches (creeping roots are inconvenient to choose manually, and to avoid injuries under thorny shoots is problematic).
The pit should be prepared in advance. Opinions differ on this issue - some advise doing it in 7–10 days, others in 3-4 weeks, but the key word remains “in advance.” It is necessary to give time to the substrate to settle down in a natural way so that the seedling does not deepen excessively after planting, watering, and mechanical compaction of the earth. If the gooseberry planting is scheduled for spring, dig a hole in the fall and fill it with a nutrient substrate to the brim.
The depth and diameter of the pit, respectively, 50 x 50 cm The poorer the land, the larger the pit should be (for example, 70 x 70).
The removed upper layer of the earth is mixed with organic matter and fertilizers. On one pit will need:
- 8–10 kg of humus or rotted manure,
- 50 g of double superphosphate for any soil or 100 g of superphosphate for sandy and podzolic soil,
- 40 g of potassium or 1.5 tbsp. wood ash.
For planting use plants no older than two years - the older the plant, the harder and longer it takes root. Quality gooseberry sapling has:
- a developed root system - 3 skeletal roots (thick, weakly bending) at least 15 cm long and an impressive tuft of fibrous thin roots,
- the light color on the root cut, brown and black mean that the root is dead,
- 1-2 shoots 30–40 cm long and at least 0.5 cm thick,
- wet kidneys - for this one kidney break off and knead with your fingers.
A sapling with an open root system carefully examines and removes torn, flattened fragments, which in the first place will be subject to decay, fungal lesions. Shoots should have a smooth color without dark spots, and if the leaves have already appeared, they should have a smooth color (whitish plaque may indicate defeat with powdery mildew).
On the eve of planting, a sapling with an open root system is soaked in a growth stimulant solution (Sodium humate, Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Zircon, Ribau extra) prepared according to the instructions. Before you lower the seedling into the pit, you can dip it with its roots into a clay mash, diluted to a creamy consistency. A clay layer, even thin, will additionally protect the roots from drying out.
The choice of a particular planting pattern is influenced by the area of the cultivated area and the diameter of the adult bush. For example, the Ural Emerald variety, Hinnonmaen Punainen, has a slightly sprawling crown. And the Black Negus seems to be a real giant compared to other varieties, and the crown is spread out over a diameter of 2 meters or more.
The essence of this scheme is reduced to planting, followed by a two-time thinning. Initially, gooseberries are placed on a bed in 75 cm increments, leaving 1 m of free space between rows. When the crowns begin to close, planting thin through one bush. A year later, the thinning is repeated. Dug out bushes planted in a new place, implement, share with friends.
Between the rows
The average row spacing of the orchard is about 4 m on average, which makes it possible to plant gooseberries on this strip. After the tree crowns are closed, the bushes are transplanted.
To transplant an adult bush, it is digged in a circle at a distance of about 30 cm from the central shoot, chopping thick roots. With a special piety should treat the fibrous root vegetative roots. The bush is taken out with a lump of earth and transferred onto a mat, polyethylene to a new place.
The lack of space can lead to an original design decision - a single gooseberry planting. On the “will”, the crowns of some varieties are scattered up to 2 m in diameter - such a bush will be a great decoration of the garden and grass lawn.
Step-by-step instructions for planting gooseberries
Actions are divided into 2 stages - made in advance and directly landing.
- If several bushes are planted, mark the site first. Stakes are driven in along the edges of the plot, a cord is pulled between them, and lighthouses for bushes are driven in along it.
- Dig a hole.
- The upper layer of the earth is to the left, the lower one is distributed among the rows or used in compost heaps. If there is a shortage of mulching material, lower ground can be used.
- Fertilizers and manure are mixed with upper shovel ground on the ground or in a vessel of some kind, or in a pit.
- The pit is filled for 2-3 prepared nutrient substrate.
- Poured half a bucket of water.
Stage two (after 10 days or a month, depending on when the pit was prepared):
- Fertilized land in a hole raked into a mound (the seedling will be located at the top of the hill and after watering and compaction of the earth, it will not fail).
- Nutrient mixture lightly sprinkled with earth without fertilizer, so that the roots do not get burned.
- If the ground is too dry, the contents of the pit are moistened with water. It is moistened, and not poured to the state of the swamp.
- If the stem gooseberry is planted, a peg-support is tied into the hole, ahalthecin tied to it: 11.12.2017, 13:41
Features planting gooseberry are, by and large, in the presence of an artificial support from the trunk. Therefore, the "features of landing" a separate item is not highlighted.
'> will not warp.
- The seedling is lowered into the fossa, the root neck is kept 5–7 cm below ground level. (With greater depth, for example, 15–20 cm, if new roots do not grow on the shoots, the plant usually dies for 1–2 years).
- Spread the roots with a hand on the slopes of the knoll in the direction of their growth - it is unbecoming for them to bend upwards.
- Holding the sapling with one hand, sprinkle the substrate with the second hand in portions. During the procedure, the seedling is slightly shaken, or rather, pulled, so that lumps of earth would wake up into the voids between the roots. Inconvenient to act with one hand? Call the assistant.
- The earth is compacted with a foot along the radius, making sure that the seedling is not twisted.
- Formed around the circumference of the groove and poured over a watering can, dipper from a bucket. Up to 1 bucket or 10 liters of water is spent on the pit.
- After the final absorption, the trunk circle is mulched with compost, peat, dry grass without spikelets, covering material, and ground.
- The branches are shortened to a height of 10 to 20 cm with 2–3 buds on each shoot. The question is, why shorten healthy shoots, if they already had nice leaves on them? And in order for gooseberries to be rooted first. An undeveloped root system will not be able to “feed” long shoots with a large number of buds, so the plant will grow frail. But the shortened branches in the second year will actively grow, forming sturdy fruit (branches on which the berries grow). If 5–6-year-old bushes are transplanted, pruning is done seriously - only part of 1–2-year-old shoots are left, which are shortened by half.
Planting gooseberry in summer
Relatively recently, the sale of gooseberry seedlings in containers — a cellophane tube, by itself or placed in a cardboard box with a picture on it — began to gain momentum. On the one hand, like buying a cat in a bag, on the other hand, packaged seedlings are the only ones who will endure the summer planting on the garden bed. It will be more likely not even planting, but a transshipment in which the plants are not under stress, but simply continue to grow.
Photo Gallery: Packed Sapling
A certain proportion of the risk when buying a gooseberry in a box is that you can get to a fake or careless seller who kept the seedlings wrong. And, if no one is insured against fakes, then by purchasing a container in a store, you can check it. If an earthen room is easily removed from it, then the gooseberry is planted recently, has undeveloped roots and will not survive the summer planting. And the low cost of such a sapling should also alert.
If the earthen room is rather dry, it is immersed in water, which is absorbed into the ground through perforations. Roots sprouted through these holes are not removed (except for damaged ones).
Planting gooseberries in a box has no significant differences from the usual:
- The polyethylene shell of the container is cut from the side and bottom.
- Take out the earth com neatly so as not to destroy it.
- If the small roots are crushed, run their fingers along the coma, "ruffling" them.
- A sapling is lowered into a ready-made landing pit, and it is poured, watered, compacted and mulched in the usual manner.
And a little about the nuances of landing from the container:
- When the pit is filled up with earth, the seedling is not shaken - during the stay in the container the roots came into full contact with the ground.
- The root neck is not buried.
- Planted in open ground after July 1, and in some regions later, when the threat of recurrent frosts is completely over.
Care for planted gooseberries
Weeding, loosening and watering are produced in the radius of the crown, because the roots of the gooseberry do not "go" far beyond the edges of the shoots. Loosen the ground to a depth of about 4 cm, so as not to tear the thin growing roots, most of which are closer to the surface (5 cm). In normal weather, seedlings will need 3-5 irrigations per season, depending on the vagaries of the weather, the number of irrigations is adjusted.
If the variety has a spreading crown, in the future it will require garters or supports - this will keep the rows between the fields free and the harvest clean, because the branches, burdened with an abundance of berries, tend to the ground, get dirty.
Remove radical shoots, if not scheduled reproduction. Sanitary, thinning and forming (for standard grades) pruning is carried out in the fall. On shtambah shoots removed from the stock. Dry, diseased and gnarled branches are removed to the ground.
From the second year, the soil around the bushes is cultivated, especially if manure wasn’t used for planting: 25–30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1m 2 is brought under digging. In the future, 60–80 g of ammonium nitrate are added to each bush every year, 60–100 g of superphosphate, 40–50 g of potassium chloride every 2 years.
After harvesting, preventive spraying of the bushes with fungicides is carried out, in the fall, sick branches and fallen leaves are raked out from under the bushes, where pests can spend the winter, and burn them. To make the plant winter comfortably, in the fall they are feeding (for this there are “thematic” fertilizers - Weaving Autumn, Autumn, Bona Forte autumn) and moisture-charging watering followed by mulching.
How to save planting material before disembarking
There are many objective reasons that prevent planting seedlings on time in open ground: the postal parcel did not arrive on time, they were looking for the right variety for a long time, or it was bought at an agricultural fair that was too early, or even the weather would be expensive. The term of forced stay of a sapling in the house may take several months.
For a short time (several hours or days), the gooseberry is kept in a container with water, immersing the roots in it to the level of the root collar.
Save planting material in the house or apartment, it is convenient:
- In the refrigerator - for this:
- put one in one several plastic bags,
- put on the roots
- a special substrate for seedlings is poured in, shaking the bag to avoid voids between the roots,
- moisturize the contents of the package,
- the upper part is tied at the root of the neck, on the bottom they make several ventilation holes,
- put the container in the vegetable compartment, packaged seedlings are stored unassembled, but covered with shoots with damp paper or a rag, an inspection is regularly carried out to check for mold,
- On a glassed-in cold balcony, loggia, a veranda at a temperature of + 2-3 o C and diffused lighting, planted in a pot (bucket, box). This method cannot be called the best, because the buds will start to grow, but the planting will not be traumatic if the plant can be carefully transferred into the planting pit. To the seedling is not exhausted, the shoots are pruned, leaving 3 buds. It remains to monitor the humidity of the earthy coma and the absence of pests, such as thrips.
Купленные осенью саженцы можно хранить до весны, невзирая на скачки температуры:
- под снегом, если толщина слоя не менее 15 см:
- саженцы опускают в воду на 3–5 часов,
- удаляют (обламывают или срезают) листья,
- в снегу копают яму, траншею по длине саженцев,
- на дно кладут широкую деревянную планку, лапник,
- укладывают подготовленные саженцы побегами на планку (или целиком на лапник),
- the roots are covered with a layer of dry peat or earth,
- from above the plants are completely covered with spruce branches, burlap or spunbond,
- fall asleep with snow,
- from above, a layer of sawdust is 8–10 cm thick (it is possible to go beyond the boundaries of this area), which will not allow the snow cover to melt prematurely,
- shelter is marked with poles,
- in prikop - so seedlings are saved, if the snow cover is small or winter is snowless:
- leaves are removed from the shoots
- find a shaded dry place protected from the wind, if there is none, dig a shallow trench,
- the seedlings are laid, the roots and part of the shoots are filled with an earthen layer 20-30 cm thick,
- planting material is covered with spruce branches, spunbond, to preserve moisture.
How to plant gooseberries?
Planting gooseberry seedlings
In order to understand how to plant a gooseberry in the spring, you should not watch a large number of videos or learn from other gardeners. The principle of planting is similar to planting currants, raspberries, or even any tree.
At the bottom of the pit is piled on 2/3 of the harvested land, then it is poured abundantly to make something like dirt. Seedling set at an angle of 45 degrees, straighten the roots so that they do not break. The root neck is buried no more than 2-5 cm. Now the plant, all in the same position at an angle, begins to sprinkle with earth and tamp it down so that the germ under its own weight does not fall.
After that, the gooseberry is watered and pruned shoots up to 20 cm. At the same time, there should be about 4-5 buds on them. Due to the fact that the bush is located at an angle, this will stimulate the root system to grow and form new, radical shoots.
What is care?
Caring for a young gooseberry bush allows it to quickly develop and grow, so they should not be neglected.
- Like any plant, gooseberry requires regular watering, loosening the soil and cleaning the weeds.
- Sometimes gooseberry bushes are mulched with straw, peat, sawdust, humus or something like that. Due to this moisture evaporates less, the roots are created most comfortable for growth conditions. And the cleaning of weeds will not take a long time.
- It is very important to monitor the condition of the plant while it is young, so that it will not be attacked by pests or diseases. Most often the gooseberry suffers from powdery mildew. You can cope with it by any available method: spraying with 4% solution of copper sulphate, tincture of manure or means of serum with water. It is worth noting that there are varieties of gooseberry resistant to powdery mildew: "Mysovsky 17", "Five-Year Plan", "American Mountain", etc.