Pests and plant diseases

How to quickly get rid of weeds in the garden and destroy the grass


Weeds are unwanted plants in the garden and every person knows about it. They take from the soil nutrients that are intended for commercial crops. Quickly growing weeds do not allow other plants to develop normally. Because of this, the destruction of plant pests is a problem for all summer residents.

Weed control is not an easy task, and some methods of control lead to the fact that the grass multiplies even faster. Weeds can get to the dacha also from neighbors, for example, if they are propagated by roots. Seeds can fly with the wind, and when you consider that the emergence of weeds can persist for years, weeding with a chopper of the land plot seems ungrateful work. But there are ways to fight.

Annual weed control

Better way than mechanical removal of weeds, nothing has yet been invented. But chopper can not always give the desired result, it all depends on the type of weeds. Effective weeding will be only if it is necessary to remove annual weeds on the plot. In this case, it is easiest to cope with those specimens that did not have time to develop the root system and the aboveground part. Weeding the area is desirable after rain, to make it easier to pull the roots out of the ground.

Peat weed control

Weeding of perennial weeds will not give the desired results, on the contrary, the grass will begin to multiply and grow much faster due to shredding and damage to the root system with a hoe. To such plants include wheat grass and sow thistle. They grow very much and can even pierce potato tubers with their hard roots.

To fight with wheatgrass and chaff, it is necessary to dig the ground with a fork to a depth of at least 30 centimeters. Only in this case, you can pull out the whole rhizome of the plant without damaging it. This method of dealing with perennial weeds is very effective, but a piece of the root can still remain in the ground. Tillage should be done regularly, and only then after a few years, these two types of weed will be able to completely withdraw.

Another "cunning" and dangerous weed is to sony. For a long time, some two stunted leaves may stick out of the soil, but at this time the plant develops a powerful root system underground. This weed is propagated by seeds and a piece of root. Weed and dig up the soil as much as you like, but it does not help. This is because the roots go down to a depth of 40 centimeters. You can restrain sleep only by digging 20 cm deep into the ground around a plant some obstacle, for example, a garden tape. Completely get rid of this weed can cover the land with cardboard or film.

It is difficult and long to make the fight against the woodlouse. During the season it can sprout up to several times. This weed is a kind of indicator, and appears only where there is stagnation of water and acidic soil. The weed is very hard to weed out, since a new plant can grow even from a leaf left on the soil. It is important not to let the woodlouse bloom, it should immediately be cut with a flat cutter. To completely get rid of this weed, when digging in the fall, it is necessary to add ash or chalk to the soil. This will reduce the acidity and create unfavorable conditions for woodlice.

Common Weed Control Techniques

Covering is the most common way to control any kind of weed. Suitable for these purposes, cardboard, black film or mulch. Weeds will not sprout, but in applying each of the materials you need to know some tricks.

It is necessary to mulch the soil under the bushes of trees, between the rows of crops. Sawdust, straw, chopped wood bark or hay will suit this quality. The layer of mulch should be at least 5 centimeters, only then it will have an effect. Bark and sawdust can not be used in garden crops, because they have a lot of tannins. Therefore, they can be strewed only under trees and bushes. Cardboard and film can cover a large plot of land. This will not allow any weeds to grow. Often, black foil is used by strawberry growers.

Use of chemicals

Herbicides will help to completely get rid of weeds, but it is necessary to handle these tools with extreme care. When buying chemicals, it is important to make sure that they are suitable for use on agricultural land, otherwise you can make the soil unsuitable for growing any plants for several years. Always with chemicals is instruction, it is necessary to follow it strictly. If it is said that the solution is applied to a sheet of a plant, then this is exactly what needs to be done. Most herbicides can affect all plants indiscriminately and destroy them. And other herbicides are intended only for certain weeds.

The use of any herbicides harms the soil, so resort to this method of weed control should be the last thing. For example, if the plot has not been processed for several years and the whole plant has been planted with perennial plants with a powerful root system.

Why do we need to get rid of weeds

It is impossible to imagine a summer resident who has never weeded his garden in his life. Weeding is one of the most important activities for the care of garden crops. Weeding beds with vegetables and herbs is necessary, because:

  • Grass abundance negatively affects yield vegetable crops
  • Any weeding, carried out according to the rules with the use of garden tools - it is also loosening the soil, that is, "dry watering",
  • A weed-free land better absorbs top dressing and moisture,
  • And, finally, neatly weeded beds look beautiful and create a positive reputation of the summer resident in the eyes of neighbors. Neighbors will be more willing to communicate with the summer resident, who always has clean beds and no weeds, and also shares seeds, advice, and fertilizers.

What is dangerous weeds on the summer cottage

Weeds in the garden are not as harmless as many think. The most dangerous weeds are traditionally considered:

These herbs have very long roots that go deep into the ground. A rare summer resident has the patience to dig them out completely. Therefore, harmful herbs multiply again and again. The most dangerous is the loach, in some regions of Russia this weed is still affectionately called “birch”. A vyun, or "birch" is a climbing plant with small ovoid leaves and white or pink flowers that resemble small gramophones. Loach has the ability to twist around cultivated plants. For example, the loach often twists around potato lashes. If the summer resident is faced with such a phenomenon, it is not worth it to panic. It is necessary to carefully disentangle the loach, without damaging the potato tops, take it aside and carefully dig it out with the root.

There are less harmless plants that are dug out very easily, for example, quinoa and woodlice. However, any grass poses a danger to future harvest, because:

  • Weeds remove all nutrients from the ground, interfering with the normal growth and development of cultivated plants,
  • Dangerous pests and parasites like to live on vegetables are very fond of living
  • Cultivated plants can become infected from weeds by fungal, viral and bacterial infections,
  • Some herbs have the ability to slow the growth of cultivated plants.

If you do not weed the garden, he quickly will come into a neglected form, and cultivated plants will die, "crushed" by weeds. Those who do not smile at such a prospect, should make a lot of effort to fight the "uninvited guests."

Secrets of perfect weeding

Weeding is the most reliable means to help destroy grass in the summer cottage. Of course, there are other folk remedies for this scourge. Seasoned gardeners who like to use the “grandmother's” methods often prepare various solutions that inhibit the growth of the herb, according to recipes from newspapers, the Internet and specialized literature. However, all these folk remedies, unlike weeding, do not destroy weeds, but only slow down their reproduction. Industrial herbicides that actually kill off excess grass on a plot often have a destructive effect on cultivated plants.

Single method, which will help to really destroy the grass - this is a well-known weeding. Of course, folk remedies also help, because the grass begins to grow more slowly, however, we can’t get rid of weeds without weeding.

Of course, you can do the same as the hero of the old dacha anecdote - the summer resident, who planted potatoes every year and complained that the weeds were drowning her. The unfortunate gardener tried all the weed products: he treated the area with herbicides, prepared various weed solutions using “grandma's recipes”. And, finally, desperate to get rid of the unfortunate weeds on the plot, the hapless gardener decided: “Next year I will not plant potatoes in the garden. I will do the opposite: I will plant weeds in the garden, and then the potatoes will drown him for sure. ”

But it is better to pick up the hoe and weed. The best way to get rid of weeds in the area simply does not exist. Here are the secrets of perfect weeding:

  • We need to weed the plot regularly, otherwise there will be no sense from this procedure,
  • Before weeding, it is advisable to water the bed, and then wait a little for the soil to be slightly damp. Digging out weeds from moist soil is much easier than from dry,
  • It is necessary not to pull out the toppers, but to dig out them. If you tear it with your bare hands, the roots will remain in the ground, and after a while the weeds will grow again like mushrooms,
  • In no case should not leave the grass in the furrow or throw right there on the garden, because it will multiply from seed again. The most convenient way is to put it in a bucket and put it on a compost pile. Faded weed - fine fertilizer. If there is no compost pile on the plot, you can burn the grass or take it to the nearest forest.

Weeding tools

Seasoned summer resident will never tear weeds barehanded. There are plants whose roots go very deep into the ground. These roots must be dug out, otherwise there will be no point in weeding. In order to start a victorious and rapid war with grass, a novice gardener will need:

  • Pair of cotton gloves. Many gardeners complain that working in them is uncomfortable. However, it is impossible to work without gloves, because any small wound on the skin of a person who works in the ground can become infected, and this will lead to a dangerous disease - tetanus,
  • Easy plastic bucket. It is convenient to put weeded weeds into it,
  • Tool for work. Many gardeners use small garden spatula - a miniature copy of a large shovel, only pointed at the end, to make it easier to dig in the roots. But it is better to purchase a more convenient tool. It is a wooden rod, at one end of which there are miniature rake, and at the other end - a small spatula. Such a versatile tool is very convenient to simultaneously carry out weeding and loosening.

How to get rid of weeds in the garden: other options

Another proven folk remedy for the destruction of weeds in the area is that empty areas of the garden, in which nothing grows, but many weeds, are covered with a dark film. This is a fairly effective way, because weed grass under a black film quickly disappears and suffocates, especially in hot weather. However, this method cannot be used directly on the bed, where weeds and cultivated plants grow in alternation. Cover with a black film can only be between the aisles, the aisles and empty areas of the garden.

You can also use industrial herbicides that promote the rapid and effective destruction of weeds. However, the use of herbicides is permissible only if the roots are processed - plants whose fruits are in the ground (potatoes, turnips, carrots, beets). The use of herbicides is unacceptable if the fruits or greens of cultivated plants suitable for consumption are on the surface of the earth. If you get herbicides on edible greens, zucchini fruits or pumpkins, berries, you can get a serious poisoning after eating these fruits in food.

Many gardeners never weed off between the - the border between their own and the neighboring plot. But, weeding is very important in weed control. Most often, weeds begin to spread precisely from the middle and inland of the plot. Therefore, if you reliably “protect borders”, armed with a chopper, you can significantly reduce the number of weeds in the area. Also, weeds, which are on the boundary, can get into the garden by pests and parasites from the neighboring plot, so a clean intersection is the key to a clean garden. Weed grass at the border does not grow as fast as on the beds, because the land is well-grafted, so there is no need for private weeding. Two or three times per season is enough.

How to destroy weeds and not lose health?

Weeding is hard physical labor. In order not to undermine the precious health, it is necessary to pay great attention to compliance with safety regulations. It is necessary to work in gloves and in closed clothes. The ideal option is a tracksuit. It is recommended to apply a protective cream or a balm against mosquitoes and other bloodsuckers on the face and hands. If it is a hot day, it is necessary to cover the head with a kerchief or Panama.

Do not weed weeds, bent over "in three deaths". Those who stand in such a position for a long time risk making radiculitis, osteochondrosis and other serious diseases of the spine. Squatting is also not very comfortable, and you can quickly get tired. It is best to carry out weeding the beds, kneeling. In order to avoid overcooling of the knees, you can buy protective knee pads in specialized stores: suitable for sports knee pads, as well as those made specifically for gardeners. You can make the protection yourself.

It is not necessary to carry out weeding barefoot, because there is a high risk of cutting yourself on a sharp stone or scratching your leg on a sticking root. The tool should be comfortable so that no calluses appear on the hands. During the weeding, you should not reach far behind the weed, because this way you can lose your balance and fall. It is best to approach the inaccessible weed on the other side of the garden bed. Weeding is best done early in the morning or in the evening, when it is light, but there is no scorching sun. Gardeners working in open clothes should apply sunscreen on the face and body to avoid burns.

All these little tricks will help to quickly get rid of weeds and turn weeding into pleasure. Nothing pleases the tributary so much as the kind of neatly weeded beds with carrots, beets, potatoes and other important garden crops. However, in order to bed was beautiful and clean, you have to work hard. Weeding is the best method to get rid of weeds. The main thing is to carry out this procedure according to all the rules, then from weary and tedious work weeding will turn into an exciting fight against weeds. And vegetables and greens will finally be able to breathe freely.

Method 1 - traditional

With the fact that the soil needs to be dug, today many are arguing. We will not argue - not about that now, not about how to cultivate the land. For those who are interested in this issue, I recommend reading the article Dig or Not Dig? That is the question ... and numerous comments on it. And to combat perennial rhizome weeds, digging and plowing remain one of the most effective methods.

Yes, this is quite a laborious process, and it has its drawbacks. But now, let's say, I have a plot where two years ago nothing grew except wheat grass, nettle and sleep. How can one quickly recapture the land from them without digging, if its entire upper layer consists entirely of roots alone? I have not found the answer to this question yet. Therefore, digging, carefully selecting the roots by hand.

Digging - a way to control weeds. Photo author

There are different variants. For example, digging with a shovel, not with a pitchfork, is so much less likely to damage the rhizome, to cut it into pieces, from which new weeds will later grow.

You can plow virgin soil with a cultivator, motoblock or tractor (if any). In this case, it will be more difficult to choose the roots, but I will say from experience: such processing helps to get rid of wormwood, burdock and similar plants with a very powerful and deep root system in just a year or two - you will torment them with a spade.

Method 2 - chemical

I myself do not like this method and never use it. But it is possible that for some situations it turns out to be the only acceptable one, although in the garden I would not recommend using it under any conditions - the poison, which are herbicides, is poison. In addition, on some plants (for example, the same hogweed Sosnovsky), these drugs have virtually no effect.

Sosnovsky's hogweed is a weed resistant even to herbicides. Photo author

Говорят, правда, что появился гербицид нового поколения — Агрокиллер, способный уничтожить даже таких «монстров». But I am always tormented by the question: what will happen to the soil in which the drug falls? with insects or other living things that may accidentally stumble upon a treated plant.

Method 3 - Biological

In order to live and develop, plants (both cultural and weedy) need light. In the dark, life processes in plant tissues slow down or even completely stop. Over time, this can destroy not only the shoots, but also the root system, which does not receive the nutrition it needs.

Cover the ground with any dense opaque material (black film or mulching agrofibre, cardboard, roofing felt, boards and so on), we deprive the weeds of the conditions they need for life, and they die. However, it is necessary to have patience: one season is sometimes not enough for this. In addition, a layer of earth gradually accumulates on the surface of a similar cover (especially nonwoven fabric), into which the seeds fall - and everything begins anew.

Covering the soil with dense opaque material, we make life difficult for weeds. Photo author

However, the choice of material for soil mulching should be taken very carefully. So, under the black film, the earth can overheat, the ruberoid is able to release resins, the harmlessness of which is a big question - and so on. These nuances are important to understand and take into account.

A good alternative to synthetic shelter is organic mulch. Only need to fill it with a thick layer (5-10 cm minimum). Sawdust, mowed grass, and tree bark are suitable - we have already talked about different types of mulch, more details about its use are described in the articles Successful types of mulch for a garden and a vegetable garden and 6 popular variants of autumn mulch for every taste. And in the next video you will see how you can combine materials: in this case it's cardboard plus wood bark.

Method 4 - replacing

Where do weeds appear? That's right - where there is a free, empty land. On the soil occupied by plantings, weeds are usually few, and it is more often annuals, which are much easier to handle. What is the conclusion? Empty areas should not be!

Part of the problem solves the mulch, which was mentioned just above. But there are other options. For example: a bed has been freed after early greens or onions harvesting - we sow it with green mans or carry out repeated summer crops of fast-growing vegetables.

Phacelia - an excellent siderats and weed remedies. Photo author

Sealed landings are also a solution. Of course, it is necessary to condense wisely, so that the plants are not crowded, and the harvest does not suffer. But with the right approach, you can get beautiful beds and get rid of weeds - they simply will have nowhere to grow.

The details of this method and its visual demonstration can be found in our publication Weeds: a video about a substitute method of struggle.

Method 5 - alcohol

The birthplace of this method is America, where it was first tested in the 1930s. Its essence is very simple: about a month before the start of the sowing season, it is treated with a 6% solution of ethyl alcohol (in our conditions it is 150 g of ordinary vodka per bucket of water). Alcohol stimulates the germination of seeds, and the weeds sprout together, after which they gently weed out. Claim that the effect of such processing is maintained even more than one season! I don't know, I haven't tried it myself yet. Maybe someone checked? Tell us about the impressions!

Method 6 - Fiery

Another exotic way is a domestic invention. Many have noticed that in the beds, where tug-like crops are planted (parsley, carrots, or dill, for example), weeds appear much earlier than cultural crops sprout. Our summer residents have figured out how to quickly destroy these shoots: they take a blowtorch and pass along the bed, treating it with a sliding flame. The most important thing here is not to linger in one place, otherwise you can burn everything, including sown vegetables. After processing, the soil must be cooled by watering it. I don’t know how to use a blowtorch, so I don’t plan to try this method in practice.

Method 7 - debilitating

In a plant, as we know, the root system and the above-ground part are interdependent: if one is damaged, the other may suffer. So, if we carefully cut off all the leaves and shoots at the very surface of the soil, then in order to grow new ones, the plant will have to expend a supply of vitality and nutrients from its roots. And what happens if we carry out this procedure regularly? Most likely, one day there will come a time when stocks just run out, and the plant will die.

Agree, it sounds very convincing. And for many types of weeds, this method is effective. But not for everyone - that should also be understood. However, there is probably no universal way to control weeds at all. Meanwhile, such processing takes much less time and effort than digging, and therefore it deserves attention.

According to my observations, it will not be possible to completely remove the weeds with a "shave" - ​​the place of those who cannot withstand execution is simply taken by more enduring species. But if sodding suits you perfectly between rows or under trees in a garden, this method is suitable, perhaps, better than others.

From the omnipresent slyti not so easy to get rid of. Photo author

I was able to noticeably reduce the number of discharges at the old cottage by this method. Regularly cut off her shoots by hand (it was not possible to use the tool - the weed lived in the thickets of viburnum) and used the torn grass as mulch. Perhaps two more years - and it would be over with dreams ... But I left, and the experiment was interrupted. But with the Hogweed, already mentioned in this article, this method is completely useless to fight - it grows even after repeated mowing.

For those species that can be depleted by mowing, the most important thing is not to touch the roots. Therefore, it is desirable to use a flat cutter or sickle (hoe) here will be less convenient.

Method 8 - Preventive

We often sow weeds in the garden with our own hands. This happens if you use fresh manure (it often contains a lot of seeds of malicious weeds). This happens when composting mature grasses with seeds and then applying unripe fertilizer. In the correct compost heap, the temperature is usually high, and the seeds that fall into it “burn out”, lose their germination. But on the surface and on the edges of the raw material may not be warmed enough.

Output - avoid all that is capable of causing a problem. Use only rotted manure, form the compost correctly and mow the grass in time, not allowing it to set seeds.

Method 9 - psychological

Finally - partly as a joke, but partly and seriously - one little advice. Many have heard, probably, the popular phrase: “You can’t make a difference — change your attitude towards it.” So with the weeds about the same. No, I do not call to put up with the "jungle" in the garden. But I think, in the struggle for the cleanliness of the garden, we sometimes get too carried away, trying to achieve the ideal. And if you allow yourself and your dacha some imperfection, stop killing about the fact that “there, the grass came out again at the fence,” you can save a lot of strength and nerves.

For example, I have a friend, who is not allowed to live in peace, weeds in between the rows and on the sides of the beds. She spends a lot of time and effort to get rid of them - and they grow again and again ... How else - nature does not tolerate emptiness ... There is no end to this confrontation, because you will not be able to get rid of grass completely anyway. Do you need such persistence, is it worth the result of the effort and nerves? I'm not sure…

The cuff is a weed, but how beautiful ... Photo by the author

By the way, many weeds (which are often “politically correct” called wild plants) have very valuable properties: they can be used to control pests of a garden and vegetable garden, be used as a healing raw material, and even a food product. And some are just beautiful. But this, however, is already a topic of a completely different conversation - if you are interested in it, have a look at our publications:

  • What benefits can weeds bring
  • Spring vitamins to the country table and for the future
  • "Praise song" to weeds.

Tell us how do you manage to get rid of weeds in beds and flowerbeds? What methods do you use? Which tried, but rejected, and why? I really look forward to your comments and opinions on this burning topic.

Adding an article to a new collection

Weeding beds and flower beds - the occupation is not the most exciting. But even with such a boring job it is easy to cope if you find the right approach to business.

There are, almost, 10 ways to get rid of weeds in the area. These measures will help make life easier for summer residents and protect landings from aggressive "neighbors."

1. Immediate soil tillage method

Weed control should begin at the stage of preparing the beds for planting. Supporters of organic farming today are actively using the soilless soil treatment method. When it digs up the ground only once - at the time of primary processing. The rest of the time they only loosen the ground.

Loosening instead of digging is the basis of the soil-free method of tillage

What good is this way? When it weed seeds are not carried to the surface and therefore do not germinate. At the same time, seeds brought to the site by the wind are not capable of causing serious damage to cultivated plants.

So that the soil in the garden beds does not settle, low fences of boards, bricks or tiles can be installed around them. Paths can be sprinkled with mulch (gravel, bark, wood chips) - then the weeds can not grow even here.

By the same principle, it is possible to protect land-covering plants that grow in rockeries or on alpine hills. We need to weed a flower garden, cover the soil with a film or cardboard, and from above pour a layer of earth into which the plants will be planted. Next, the space between cultures must be filled with gravel, expanded clay, chips, or bark.

2. Mulching

One of the most reliable ways to get rid of weeds is mulching. A layer of mulch deprives the weed seeds they need for light to grow.

A variety of materials can be used as mulch: humus, compost, peat, pine bark, straw, hay, mowed grass, fallen leaves, nuts and eggshells, and paper. However, you need to pick them wisely. For example, if you use peat or pine bark as mulch, they can increase the level of soil acidity. And in such a soil can not grow every plant.

Bark mulch will protect against weeds, but may acidify the soil.

In addition, together with mulch in a garden or a flower garden it is easy to bring in weeds .. This can happen if you use humus, peat or immature compost. So take note of the fact that weed flowers should not be put in compost.

How to check the compost for the presence of weed seeds? In the spring, pour the compost pile (or humus) with water and cover with foil. If in a couple of days shoots appear on it, it means that it is clogged. You cannot use such compost as mulch - you need to give it a ripen. EM drugs can help in this.

From inorganic materials, black geotextiles can be used as mulch. Most often it is used when planting strawberries (garden strawberries). But you can use it to mulch other crops that love to grow in heat.

Black film not only suppresses the growth of weeds, but also warms the soil.

3. Use of herbicides

If it is impossible to cope with weeds on its own, it is necessary to resort to the help of chemical preparations that can destroy aggressive weeds. Many of these tools are broad-spectrum herbicides - aimed at the destruction of many types of weeds. One of the proven drugs is Roundup.

When applying any of the herbicide preparations in your area, remember that this is a chemical agent that must be handled with great care. Observe safety precautions and follow the instructions on the packaging.

4. EM drugs

If you do not want to use chemicals, you can try to get rid of weeds with the help of bacteriological preparations. Weeds need to be cut with a sharp hoe, and then you should water the area with a solution of EM-drug. For these purposes, suitable, for example, Baikal EM-1. The tool must be diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 100. As a result, the weed root system remaining in the soil is quickly reprocessed.

This site treatment is best carried out in the autumn, when the beds are free from major plantings.

5. Mixed landing

Mixed cultivation of vegetables, berries and herbs on one bed (flowerbed) helps significantly reduce the number of weeds. This is necessary so that minor plants perform the function of mulch, leaving no room for the growth of weeds.

This method of planting is great for flower beds, where spring bulbs or annuals can be planted around underdeveloped perennials.

Mixed landings are very unusual, but practical.

6. Sowing sideratov or re-sowing vegetables

Weeds appear primarily on empty land, so it is important to ensure that the beds are always occupied by plantings. Close the "gaps" in the garden partly helps the mulch. But its use is not always justified, especially if you have several free beds at once after harvesting early greens or onions.

In this case, it is worth thinking about planting siderats or fast-growing vegetables. Do not leave the beds empty. In addition, the more densely the crops grow, the fewer weeds can squeeze between them. But keep in mind that compacted planting should not interfere with the vegetables themselves to develop normally.

Oilseed radish - one of the siderats, which will protect the garden from weeds

The main types of weeds

In order for weed control not to turn into a waste of time for you, it is necessary to remove them taking into account the peculiarities of the root system structure. Everyone knows that it is the roots that cause great harm not only to the soil, but also to the cultivated plants themselves - they dehydrate the soil, reduce its mineral and nutritional composition, and even block out from the sun. Not every gardener knows the reason for the constant reproduction of weeds - if one species grows quickly thanks to the seeds, then the other grows well after the partial destruction of the leaf part.

  1. Dandelion field. Despite the fact that this wild plant has many useful properties and is widely used in traditional medicine, all gardeners are against their settlement on their site. The dandelion root system has one main root, so if you destroy the seedlings before the “air” seeds appear, you can greatly reduce its distribution throughout the garden.
  2. Starfish or woodlouse. Just like dandelion, a popular element for traditional medicine recipes, however, the worst side of wood lice - can easily grow in all weather conditions and greatly increase in quantity, due to abundant sprinkling. The mokrita has surface roots, so most of the nutrients from the soil picks up this weed.
  3. Nettle. A very useful plant, however, despite its remarkable properties, causes great harm to cultivated plants. Usually, in the gardens nettle grows next to the fences, has a widely branched root system, propagates by seeds and roots.
  4. Bindweed. One of the most hated weeds, which causes great harm not only to the cultivated plants in the garden, but also to agricultural crops. The bindweed cannot be removed completely - neither stretching nor cutting help - the root of this weed is so deep that sometimes it is located 3-4 meters underground. This greatly complicates its destruction, however, due to the fact that the weed wraps its stem with succulent shoots of useful plants, the latter stop growing and die.
  5. Horsetail, as well as other types of weeds are very annoying with their presence on the beds, even despite the fact that it brings many benefits to the body when used in traditional medicine. Ivy breeds shoots and grows mostly in the shade, in wet soils.

Tillage in late autumn

This method requires special attention, even despite the fact that it is not so common among gardeners because of the monotonous work. Land in the garden and the garden, to prevent the emergence of weeds need to dig up in late autumn, when the air temperature is not less than -0 degrees Celsius. Such a tough condition is necessary so that all the roots, pulled out of the ground, die in the cold. This will be a guarantee that their reproduction will stop and the garden will be at least a little released due to the prevalence of harmful weeds.

In order to dig the soil and pull out all the unnecessary roots from the ground, you need to use not a shovel, but a pitchfork. On sale there are special installation to facilitate digging the soil, they will not only help you to quickly cope with the work, but also carefully remove weeds. When digging, the main thing is not to be lazy, but to collect all the big roots from the ground, all the garbage that can spoil the look of your garden. Если вы видите, что на отдельном участке полно мелких сорняков, их удалить можно с помощью тяпки. Стоит заметить, что положительный результат от проделанной работы будет полностью зависеть от приложенных усилий – если вы не будете лениться, то на следующий год получите чистый огород.

Физические методы борьбы с сорняками — прополка

Among all known methods, the most popular and easiest is regular weeding. Its indisputable efficiency has been proven not for one decade, but for several centuries. In order for weeding to bring the maximum amount of benefit and save you from further tedious work, you need to pay attention to the following rules:

  1. The most optimal time for tillage of pesky weeds is the beginning of summer, the end of spring. This period is characterized by the fact that together with planted tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetable and fruit crops, weed sprouts begin to appear. During the beginning of growth to pull them out does not provide much difficulty, all wild plants are removed along with the root. Such weeding will help remove 80% of all available weeds.
  2. The evening after the rain is the best time for weeding. If the ground is dry, it is impossible to pull out the plant from the root, but when the soil is wet, it becomes loose and it is not so difficult to pull the weed out of the ground.
  3. If you don’t want to “bow” to weeds for the whole summer, it is necessary to thoroughly remove all roots already during the first weeding. Do not leave the remains of plants near the beds - collect in one bucket, and then use for compost or just burn.
  4. Mokritsa - a weed, which by its intrusiveness takes the second place, after the omnipresent bindweed. In order to get rid of this plant, it is necessary not only to carry out weeding before the seeds begin to fall, but also to create conditions that are hated by the weed — to prevent overmoistening and shade.

Chemical methods to help rid the garden of weeds

If your garden is already completely covered with weeds, or for some reason you have failed to produce spring weeding, you can use the help of chemicals. Now buyers are ready to offer a large number of solutions that are able to completely destroy weed plants, leaving no reason for their further growth. But are chemicals so useful or is a “time bomb” hidden in them?

Everyone knows that everything that is created in a test tube, bears in itself not only benefit, but also evil. The same applies to weed products. If you want to protect your food and leave it natural, you must either completely abandon the use of chemical solutions or use herbicides as carefully as possible, it is better to spray it on each plant separately. This method is not suitable for use in gardens, where there are beehives in the neighborhood - bees, eating chemical poison, can die immediately, and this will happen in just a few days.

Note! Herbicides are a toxic drug that not only destroys the structure of weed plants, but also completely destroys the fertile soil layer. In addition, chemical solutions can change human genetics - this is the same product that causes genetic abnormalities in humans and animals. If you care about your health and that of your relatives, do not use herbicides in your garden. It is better to weed several times or get a small crop, but all the collected fruits of fruits and vegetables will be 100% natural.

Folk remedies in the struggle for a clean garden

In order to help gardeners to cope independently with the dominance of weeds, it is necessary to describe the folk methods used for several centuries in a row and bringing visible benefits.

    Root pruning This procedure is very familiar to all gardeners - the usual weeding with a hopper. Loosening the earth in this way, you not only saturate it with oxygen, but also cut the roots of weeds. To ensure that wild plants do not disturb you as long as possible, carry out this procedure as often as possible.

In order for the work in the garden to bring only positive emotions, it is necessary to work hard at weed control. Remember, only regular work on the site can save you from the unpleasant dominance of weed crops.

Use of herbicides

The use of potent chemicals provides an immediate effect, is the most effective way chemistry manages to destroy strong weeds. In the agrochemical market there are various herbicides suitable for certain varieties of shoots growing in the garden, in the garden. Buyers are offered two types of pesticides:

  1. Systemic pesticides: put on the stems, leaves, poison penetrates everywhere. This causes the death of weeds, the root and aerial parts die.
  2. Contact compounds can only have a local effect. Only the place of localization of a poisonous substance is affected.

I was able to get rid of ARTHROSIS AND OSTEOCHONDROSIS PER MONTH! Operations are not needed. Read more here.

Herbicides are divided by the spectrum of action, they are:

The difference is obvious. Substances of continuous action will destroy all the plants in a row, including cultivated plants planted by gardeners. The use of such herbicides justifies itself, if it becomes necessary to obtain a completely free area, which is completely devoid of even a blade of grass. These poisons allow you to overcome dangerous strong weeds like Hogweed.

Herbicides of continuous action are drugs:

  • Antiburyan,
  • Tornado bau,
  • Agrokiller - with a high content of active ingredient.

They completely eliminate weeds in the area that is allocated to create a lawn, and the land on it is intended to cover soft green grass.

Herbicides selective action is also very useful in lawn care. Sometimes the grass grows on the lawn, dandelion. But there is always the opportunity to find an effective means, the use of which in the necessary concentration will solve all the problems, but will not harm the cultivated plants. Chemicals of this type are very diverse, the choice is quite wide:

  • Lazurite removes weeds on plantings of potatoes and tomatoes,
  • Lontrel-300D - for the destruction of weeds on the lawn,
  • Deimos - for a lawn,
  • Hacker - for weed control on the lawn.

The use of such tools according to the instructions helps to remove weeds. without weeding, and cultural plantings do not have any negative impact.

Watch the video! Instructions for use of herbicides

Mechanical methods for weed removal

Mechanical influences consider:

  • digging up,
  • pulling out
  • cutting of weeds without chemistry.

To remove a weed completely completely turn out, but a lot of time will be spent, it is necessary to make considerable efforts. Weed purslane garden has a rather weak root system. He easily pulls out their soil. This is the easiest option. Pyrey or Thistle to remove with your hands is extremely difficult.

Tip! Mowing weeds does not bring anything good, they only grow stronger.

Rhizome left in the ground, sooner or later come to life, the plant will gain even greater strength. It is necessary to mow at least 3 times, so that the root is completely dried, and the weeds have never sprouted.

A significant disadvantage of this method is a large expenditure of time and effort. It is important to consider that different weeds have different germination times, which requires regular weeding. In addition, this method is completely unsuitable for a lawn, because weed mowing inevitably leads to the destruction of ornamental grass.

The merits of mulching

An excellent method of weed control is land mulching. It is really effective, but there is no hope for a complete solution of the problem. The essence of the action is as follows:

  • the ground is covered with available material; black plastic film, sawdust, leaves, rubble are allowed;
  • mulching deprives the soil of sunlight. Without sunlight, photosynthesis is impossible, even a strong plant will inevitably die.

The method has the necessary effect, almost devoid of flaws. But it takes a lot of time. Weed in this way Location on removed for a long time. It should be covered in early spring, it can only be removed after a year. The result will be convincing, but the annual expectation requires maximum patience.

Planting strawberries, potatoes can be covered with paper, plastic wrap. Every plant should have a hole. Weeds slowly die, but the strawberry feels great because the film retains moisture and heat.

Salt application

A solution of the well-known table salt in the soil stops the growth of weeds. This technique has been used for a long time, it perfectly removes weeds. Its frequent use is due to the cheap method. The soil was abundantly watered with a strong salt solution. Sometimes the salt just poured out on the site at the rate of:

Salt will dissolve precipitation and morning dew, so it will penetrate into the soil.

But too high salt content makes the soil unsuitable for growing plants. It makes sense to use salt if you need to organize the paths. Salt perfectly cleans them from unnecessary vegetation. For landings, this method is not very favorable.

Vinegar application

Vinegar will perfectly replace expensive herbicide, will relieve of an unnecessary vegetation. The tool is easy to make at home, using affordable raw materials that are in any kitchen. Using vinegar can achieve complete weed control.

For the preparation of natural spray will require:

  • 2 glasses of water
  • 2 glasses table 9% vinegar,
  • a bag of citric acid,
  • 2 tsp detergent.

The components are well mixed, poured into a container equipped with a spray. You can begin the destruction of weeds. It is necessary to exercise maximum caution. The solution will destroy the weeds, but will not spare the cultural plantings.

Important! The alkali contained in vinegar, detrimental effect on any plant.

Weeds are the eternal concern of gardeners, gardeners, gardeners. There is no way that perfectly solves the problem, eliminates weeds for sure. It is important to choose the best course of action, work hard, maintain order on the site.

Mixed landing

All methods have certain advantages. Safe is the way that is mixed growing berries and vegetables in one garden and herbs.

It is unlikely that it will be possible to completely remove the harmful growth, but secondary plants will perfectly fulfill the role of mulching, displacing the weeds from the bed. Especially good way to work on flower beds. Perennials are planted with annual plants, spring bulbous crops.

Risk can be avoided and preserve health, if you use traditional means of weed control. It is better to use time-tested techniques, this will help to achieve the best result.

Watch the video ! How to destroy weeds on your site

7. The use of vodka

This method was invented in America. Its essence lies in the treatment of the soil with a 6% solution of ethanol. We use for this purpose vodka, from which the solution is prepared, diluting 150 g in 1 liter of water. The treatment is carried out a month before the start of the sowing campaign.

How does this procedure help? Alcohol contributes to the early germination of weed seeds. Thus, the weeds sprout together, after which they can be weed out in one fell swoop. Summer residents who have tried this method claim that the effect after such a struggle persists for several seasons.

8. Soil treatment by fire

Another non-standard way to eliminate weeds involves the use of a blowtorch. It can be used on beds with tug-like crops (dill, parsley, carrots). As a rule, weeds in this case appear earlier than intentionally planted plants.

The first shoots of weeds are easy to destroy if the surface of the soil is treated with a sliding flame. At the same time, holding a lighted lamp, the main thing is not to linger in one place, but to move all the time so as not to accidentally “burn” the seeds of vegetables in the soil. It is recommended to cool the ground after this treatment. To do this, it should be watered with water.

9. "Cutting" weeds

Any plant, if it is deprived of leaves and shoots, spends quite a lot of effort to recover. Therefore, if you periodically cut off the aerial part of the weeds (near the soil), they will actively waste the nutrients that accumulate in the roots. Repeat the procedure several times - and the weeds will die. This method is quite effective, but requires patience from a gardener.

Weeds can be handled manually.

10. Proper harvesting of organic

Very often weeds in the beds appear due to the fault of the summer residents themselves. The reason is the use as a fertilizer of fresh manure, often containing a large number of weed seeds. The same applies to compost, in which mature herbs are planted (with seeds). If you use not fully “ripe” fertilizer, not so much vegetables, but weeds will rage on the garden bed. In a properly prepared compost, high-grade grass seeds are usually “burned”.

How do you deal with weeds? Share your methods of dealing with the insidious "invaders" of our beds.

Herbicide Treatment

This is the fastest and most effective method, which gives excellent results, but has contraindications and requires great care. The choice of drug depends on the type of uncontrolled growing plants.

Agrotechnical market offers different types of pesticides, which are divided according to various criteria into several groups.

By ability to navigate through plant tissues


When a part of a plant gets into contact, the destructive substance quickly spreads both over its entire aerial part and to the root system, which causes its complete death, including every leaf and every root.


In this case, the effect of the drug is carried out only in the place of its direct contact.

According to the spectrum of action

Solid action

In this case, the drug destroys everything that is within its radius of entry, including cultivated plantings and weeds. It is justified to use such preparations in the case when it is necessary to obtain a plot completely cleared of vegetation where there will not be a single blade of grass.

An example is Tornado, Antiburyan. They are useful when laying paths, laying paving slabs on a plot, laying a reservoir, preparing the ground for a lawn.

Selective action

Able to get rid of uninvited plants, without causing harm to planted. Effective for maintaining a well-groomed lawn. The tool and its concentration can be selected individually depending on the type of weeds, their strength and quantity.

The most popular are “Hurricane”, “Roundup”, “Agrokiller”, “Fyuzilad”, “Lazurit”, “Lintur”. The drug "Tornado" can be used as a selective tool, but it should be remembered that it, along with the tool "Antikiller", is more powerful compared to others. They are recommended to be used in the fight against the most stubborn and strong weeds, such as horsetail, couch grass, all kinds of weeds, hogweed, plantain, dandelion.

With the help of the drug "Agrokiller" you can even cope with thickets of shrubs and trees to clear the neglected area.

The mechanism of action can also be different (including complex) - the destruction of cell membranes, the inhibition of fat synthesis, photosynthesis, the formation of amino acids and so on. Herbicidal preparations in the form of emulsions, diluents, suspensions, powders, granules are produced.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of this method are obvious:

  • saving time and effort
  • the effectiveness of the fight even with the most difficult to remove weeds,
  • the ability to quickly process large areas
  • availability of the choice of a particular drug depending on the type of weeds, neglect of the site, environmental conditions,
  • after 2 weeks, nothing remains of them in the soil, substances do not accumulate.

Cons chemical fight:

  • Preparations of continuous action, which are the most effective, destroy not only unnecessary, but also cultural crops, therefore they require special care.
  • These means are useless against seeds, therefore plants not destroyed until the time of ripening and reproduction stage have time to become a source of new problems in the future. You should also know that the seeds may lie in the ground for several years, and then sprout.
  • Toxicity. It is necessary to work with these tools in protective gear and in compliance with all prescribed safety rules.

If necessary, repeat the treatment of drugs is better to alternate.

What do experts say?

Concerning this group of chemical preparations the opinion of specialists is the following. They recognize their effectiveness, but caution against too much enthusiasm for these funds. They consider use in large areas justified (for example, potato or corn fields).

But for small plots, especially with fruit trees and berry bushes present on them, in this case it is better to look for an alternative in the form of other agrotechnical methods.

Do not dig up the ground before applying herbicides! Dense soil prevents the spread of poison in depth, to the roots of fruit trees, berry bushes and other crops with a well-developed root system.

Mechanical struggle for cleanliness

By mechanical work with weeds is meant their manual or mechanized weeding. The method is long, very laborious and familiar to all gardeners. Успешность такой борьбы зависит от вида трав.If, for example, the garden purslane with its poorly developed roots can be pulled out easily and without a residue, then with all the effort it is impossible to completely completely destroy the creeper or wheatgrass.

Resorting to mowing the ground part without rhizome can only have an effect if the procedure is carried out at least three times in a short period of time. Then the root will dry out and stop trying to sprout, but this does not apply to all weeds.

Rules for successful hand weeding:

  • It is impossible to wait until the root gets stronger and the plant enters into force — you need to remove the “freeloaders” as quickly as possible.
  • It is better to use a pitchfork rather than a shovel - a cut root can not only not die, but also give several new processes.
  • The better the roots are removed, the less likelihood of recurrence.
  • Begin to remove the grass is necessary before their insemination.
  • Weeding is easier after rain than after watering.
  • There are days in the lunar calendar (depending on the passage of the moon in the zodiacal circle) when it is better not to touch the weeds, otherwise they will grow with a new force, and the work will be useless.


Mulching is the cover of the fertile soil layer by any materials that do not allow light to pass through. It can be cardboard, sawdust, agrofibre, boards and much more, which can stop the process of photosynthesis, and hence, the vital activity in general, in unwanted plants. This method is destructive not only for the above-ground part, but also for the roots.

Additional advantages include the accuracy of the appearance of the beds, especially if industrial special materials are used. The disadvantage of it, however, is the duration of the process. Having covered with a film a bed in the spring, it will be possible to remove it only in the autumn.
For horticultural crops in the material are cuts.

Under the roofing material and the film, the soil can overheat, therefore the best mulch is organic matter - sawdust, bark, cardboard, needles, mowed grass, etc.

Folk ways and means

Prior to the invention of chemical compounds and the appearance of the black summer film, beloved by summer residents, weed was fought not only with hands and hoes, but also with the help of improvised means. Many of these methods are successfully used today.


Affordable, cheap and very effective. You can use saline solution or sprinkle the earth with ordinary coarse salt at the rate of 1.5 kg per 1 sq. M. - natural sediments will do their job. The disadvantage of the method is the unsuitability of the cultivated land for further farming, but, for example, for combating the overgrowing of paths or preparing the site for artificial turf is a very simple and effective method.


A strong alkaline reaction of strong soda solution works well against plant growth. To enhance the effect, you can add grated soap. But it should be remembered that in this case it will not be possible to grow something useful on this ground for a long time.


The method, which is attributed to the Americans. Not cheap enough (1:10 dilution of medical alcohol is required), but it has an important advantage - it does not kill crops.

Only inter-rows are subject to processing, for 2-2.5 weave, 11 liters will be required. The effect persists for the current year.

It is interesting! The use of strong alcohol against weeds has a long history in America. A month before sowing the land was treated with ethyl alcohol. This caused a rapid growth of weeds, which were easily sprinkled before sowing. The method was mastered in Russia, where 1 liter of vodka was simply poured into a bucket of water!


  • There are several recipes for use.
  • 5 tbsp. 6% of vinegar is diluted in 2 liters of water (volume on 2 weave).
  • 9% vinegar + lemon juice in a ratio of 3: 1.
  • In 1 liter of water pour 2 p. salt and 5 l. Table vinegar, use hot. This recipe is considered the most reliable.

Homemade herbicide soap

  • 1 l of vinegar (the best strength - 15-20%)
  • 150g of coarse salt
  • 1 piece of laundry soap (100g), grated.

All mix, dilute and shake until smooth. Treat problem areas, for a sustainable effect repeated procedures are required with a break of a week.

Burn the grass with fire!

It is quite an exotic way, when the pest plants even before the shoots of the planted seeds are traversed by the sliding flame of a blowtorch. It is important to observe two conditions - to do this before the first shoots and not to linger long in one place. After the procedure, produce abundant watering.

Avoid Void

A holy place, as the saying goes, is never empty. This fully applies to the garden. A bed of onion has been freed - plant greens, radishes or any green manure. Permanently empty places save groundland patches well. And beautiful, and reliable.

It is better to cut off the tip of the weed than dig deeper and chop the rhizome. In the first case, it will weaken, in the second it will have the opposite effect. If you really touch the root, then delete it entirely.

Sealing landings

In order not to leave places of weeds, some crops can be planted more densely. An option for experienced, because thickened planting can ruin not only the weeds, but everything that was planted. Such seedlings are often affected by rot.


If you managed to clear a certain area of ​​weeds, you can isolate it with an excavated groove or dug in 20-25 cm into the ground with old slate.

Pay attention to the row spacing

Weeding beds, many often ignore the aisles where the grass is trampled underfoot. However, this does not prevent them from developing in the ground and from time to time to “raise their heads” in order to sow seeds. These places can be closed with mulch, covered with gravel, processed by the methods described above.


Dig the beds in the winter deeper than usual, and do not level the ground. Frosts before snow fall will kill more weed seeds than usual.

Hoping that the weeds will leave your garden and your labors once and for all, is not worth it. There are especially stubborn plants that make it almost impossible to order a road to your site (quinoa, couch grass, hogweed, plantain, sow thistle, etc.). But the combination of mechanical and chemical methods of dealing with them can give an excellent effect, and you will be able to bring your plot in order with much less time and physical costs.