The Rose Parade mix has large, densely-colored, bright pink or cherry-red flowers scattered on a spreading, tall, powerful bush. The variety easily takes root in a new place and grows quickly. The bush can reach 3.5-4 m in height and 2 m in width. The branches are thin, bending under the weight of the buds, so that the flowers remain intact even with heavy rain, because the water flows along them, without falling into the core. The shoots are decorated with dark green, glossy, thin foliage.
Rose buds Parade oval. Blossom slowly, alternately, forming a cup-shaped, with a diameter of up to 10 cm, flowers, numbering 30-35 terry petals. In the center, the color is saturated, sometimes with a purple tinge, the closer edge is paler. Flowers grow one by one or inflorescences of 5 pieces. The aroma of roses is light and pleasant.
Variety Parade re-flowering. Blooms the entire season with short breaks. In the first year after disembarkation, flowering may be scanty; in subsequent years, it blooms fully.
Care for a climbing rose Parade
The best time to plant a Parade rose is at the end of spring or the beginning of summer. To ensure abundant flowering, it is recommended to plant it in a sunny and well ventilated place. To the soil, the rose is not demanding, it takes root on any. But on a soil saturated with nutrients and loose in structure, it will give the best flowering result.
In the first year after disembarkation requires good care, in the future, the requirements for care are low. Caring for a climbing rose, you must:
- Liberally watered every 10 days with warm water. In extreme heat, as the soil dries, the frequency of watering can be increased.
- Begin to feed the rose Parade should be from the second year after planting. In the first year, it will receive the necessary nutrients from fertilizers applied during planting. In the second year, the plant is fertilized with organic and mineral preparations, alternating them. On the third - only organic. Fertilizers are applied no more than 5 times per summer. During flowering, the rose is not fertilized, only before or after.
- To carry out spring and autumn pruning. This removes all damaged, dry, weak and diseased branches, flowering and faded buds. With the help of trimming the correct shape of the bush is formed. The trimming tool must be sharp and disinfected.
- Prepare a rose for winter. To this end, the base of the bush is tucked, shoots are removed from the support, are tied up and attached to the ground, previously covered with lapnik. The branches are covered with dry foliage or fir paws, on top of a covering non-woven material. Spring shelter need to gradually. Do it better on cloudy days. First, spruce branches and hilling are removed, the plant is covered with light material to protect it from the sun and temperature changes. With the departure of the last frosts shelter retracts completely.
Caring for a rose at home includes choosing the right place, it should be illuminated, regular watering, between the frequency of which the top layer of the soil should dry out, and the top dressing of the flower with special preparations.
An important part in the care of the rose Parade is the prevention of disease and pest control. The most common diseases are powdery mildew, black spot, gray rot.
- Mildew often infected young stems and leaves. They form a raid of gray or white color, because of what the foliage twists, and the shoots die. Damaged plants should be treated with copper sulfate solution and hydrated lime or infusion of cow manure.
- Black spot - a fungal disease that affects the foliage of roses. Manifested in the form of black-brown spots, leads to drying and falling leaves. Damaged foliage and other parts of the plant should be cut and burned. To spray a bush with a special preparation before buds are dismissed. Or process a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.
- On a plant infected with gray rot, the process of decay of foliage, stems, and shoots begins. Sick shrub should be treated with Fundazole or copper oxychloride solution.
Frequent guests who harm the rose are spider mites, thrips, leafworms, rosy cicadas.
- Spider mite is considered the most dangerous pest of roses. The foliage of the affected bush turns yellow, becomes stained and cobweb, as a result it falls prematurely. To fight the tick used special insecticides. You can also treat the bush with a decoction of nettle or infusion of garlic.
- Leaflets damage the blossoming buds, young shoots and foliage. In the spring before the buds bloom, the bush should be treated with a special pesticide.
- Rose cicada greatly harms the plant, sucking the sap from the leaves. As a result, the foliage is covered with white dots, prematurely turning yellow and falling off. To get rid of these pests, it is necessary twice, with a break of 10-12 days, to treat the bush and nearby plants with insecticides.
- Thrips damaging foliage and flowers. As a result, leaves fall, and buds die. For fight against thrips the bush is sprayed with insecticides.
Roses Parade in the garden
Climbing rose Parade looks amazing in a single planting, and grown in the vicinity of other flowers. Most of all, the same creeping plants are suitable for her as neighbors. For example, the Parade and Clematis roses planted next to each other will create an excellent pink and purple flower arrangement.
No less attractive rose will look with flowers of pink, cherry, red color. A beautiful neighbor will be a climbing rose of another variety with flowers in cold tones. In the garden, the Parade roses will look beautiful and bright against the background of white flowers.
Due to the quality and quality of growing strongly, rose bushes are mainly planted near the support. It can be a great decoration for arbors, arches, hedges, columns. The Rose Parade can be grown with an ordinary bush, but for this you will need to prune it all the time.
Features blooming and fragrance
Flowering plant is a delightful process, which will bring a person a lot of pleasure. The oval-shaped rose buds are slowly unraveled, and at the same time they open huge terry flowers with a huge number of delicate petals. The reverse side of the flower is much lighter. In addition, it has a silvery shade. By the end of the flowering season, the flowers of the plant become more saturated. In its aroma, the parade resembles the smell of the oldest varieties of roses. Climbing beauty can bloom several times in one season. With proper and timely care, with each neon bloom the number of flowers becomes larger.
Use of roses
This variety is used both for decoration of individual compositions, and for decorating various garden and urban compositions. Rose parade oblique looks perfect when it is combined with climbing type plants. In addition, near this beauty will look good flowers with such as pink, red and crimson.
Thanks to this variety, it is possible in the shortest possible time to get beautiful braided walls and structures that have a support. For the support of a rose, the parade is a leafy can use both pillars and columns, hedges and various types of grids. Looks unsurpassed arches, woven over by this plant. In the garden, the rose can be grown as a regular bush, which does not require additional facilities.
Features of planting and growing
The most favorable period for planting roses is the end of spring or the beginning of summer. This is necessary in order for the bush to grow and get stronger by winter. When choosing a place, it is best to give preference to sunny areas where she will be able to delight with her flowers for more than one week a year. The plant will feel great in the area where there is a walking wind that can quickly rid the leaves of rain.
Regarding soil selection, it is best to give preference to soils rich in nutrients, loose type. Before you start planting a plant, you need to properly prepare it. The pit needs to be dug up quite deep and fertilizers in it, both organic and mineral.
Plants must be laid in such a way that the roots are as straight as possible. Immediately before planting, the rose should be soaked in water, which is pre-enriched with stimulants for rooting. The final stage of planting is good watering.
If it is planted directly to create a decor of a certain area, it should be done at a distance of more than 45 centimeters from the structure, which must be greened.
In the second year of life, the plant requires quite a lot of attention.
- Top dressing. If fertilizers are applied before planting, then at the end of the summer there is no need for repeated fertilizers. In the autumn, it is enough for a rose to bring in a solution of potassium salts, which can prepare the plant roots for winter. In the second year of the plant's life, it is also necessary to introduce organic fertilizers, which are best alternated with mineral fertilizers. Fertilizing is also necessary to make in the flowering period of the plant.
- Pruning plants. Pruning is carried out every year using a sharp instrument. Cut the rose at an angle of at least 450 degrees from the bud. The procedure of this plan is worth performing in spring and autumn. In early spring, it is necessary to rid the plant of dead shoots and areas that have frozen after winter.
Care for climbing beauty in the winter
The plant is quite easy to save it in the winter, as it is unstable in front of low temperature conditions. Therefore, in the beginning of autumn it is worth wrapping up the bushes, creating at the same time a peculiar mound. Initially, it is necessary to put a little earth on the bush, then cover it with dry leaves and tree branches. Once the threat of severe frost has passed, structures can be removed.
Rose Parade: variety description
This lush, re-flowering rose was bred in America back in 1953 using the popular climbing rose, New Dawn. Parade today is considered one of the best varieties in its group, not only because of its beauty, but also excellent resistance to diseases, frost and rain.
Oval buds, slowly dissolving, turn into lush, dense double-sized large flowers with a diameter of about 10 cm. Each cupped flower consists of more than 30 silky petals. The color is unusually bright, almost neon, pink-cherry. In the middle, the petals have the richest color, and on the edges and on the back of the bud - a little lighter.
Flowers are collected in small tassels, under the weight of which shoots slightly bend. Abundant flowering continues several times per season, from June to September. Large flowers have a pleasant, delicate aroma of old varieties of roses. They are also good for cutting.
Rose Parade reaches a height of 3-4 m, and in width - 2 m. The vigorous shrub easily takes root and gives a lot of shoots. Thin, flexible shoots are covered with dark green, brilliant foliage. This variety tolerates wintering and practically does not get sick.
Where to plant a variety of Parade
This elegant variety can decorate as the front part of the garden in solo performance, and play a minor role in the company with other plants. Climbing on supports, Parade quickly weaves walls and borders, peppering them with bright pink flowers. She perfectly clings to any support: trellis, pergolas, hedges, pillars and columns. The arches, twined with green shoots and gently hanging pink flowers, look very impressive. In a large garden, it can be grown without supports, like a lush, spreading bush.
As partners of this rose, you can choose harmonious or contrasting plants. A rich pink-cherry color is well complemented by purple, crimson, red and pink flowers. To create contrasting compositions using blue and white flowers.
Excellent company rose Parade create climbing plants, such as clematis. At the foot you can plant perennials with small flowers. Plant them at a distance of 50 cm from the rose.
How to plant
A place to land should be sunny, although partial shade is acceptable. The brighter the place, the more abundant the rose will bloom. The soil is preferred fertile, well loosened. Best of all, the plant develops in open, ventilated areas, with good air circulation. If you plant seedlings against a wall, keep a distance of 40 cm and give the roots a slightly slanted position. Attach a tent to the wall freely so that air can circulate easily.
- Prepare the soil - dig deep the earth, add compost or manure.
- Pre-place the roots of seedlings in water for 20-30 minutes. You can add there stimulants rooting.
- Then place the plant in the hole, straighten the roots.
- Cover the hole with earth and tamp the surface.
- Water well.
- Cut the shoots to a height of 15 cm.
Reproduction by layering
Rose Parade can be easily propagated by arcuate layering. The best time for this is May-June.
- Young flexible escape press to the ground.
- Dig a hole 30 cm from the top of the shoot. Remove the leaves on the shoot, leaving them only at the top.
- On the bottom side, slightly cut the bark. Carefully bend the incision site and place the escape in the hole.
- Cover the pit with soil and place a stone on top. The top should stick out of the ground vertically. For this you can use a small support.
- In the autumn, the layering to take root, then it can be separated from the parent bush.
Basic rules for the care of the Parade variety:
- In the spring overwintered roses need pruning. With a sharp tool they cut out the old shoots, frostbitten pruned to a healthy place.
- Feeding is carried out every 2-3 weeks. At the same time it is necessary to alternate mineral and organic fertilizers. At the end of July, feeding is stopped.
- Do not forget about regular watering and weeding. When watering water should not fall on the foliage to avoid disease.
- For the winter, plants spud earth to a height of 30 cm. Then cover with spruce branches, dry leaves.
Description, characteristics and features of a climbing rose Parade
The shrub is large, voluminous and powerful, it easily adapts to new growing conditions, branches well and grows richly with brilliant foliage, thereby gaining impressive dimensions in a short period of time. It grows up to three and a half meters. Shoots of roses Parade drooping or creeping, thin and flexible, which fall under the weight of flowers. There are many leaves, they are emerald in color, delicate, thin, with decorative qualities.
Flowering and aroma of climbing rose Parade as well as photos
Flowering rose Parade - a delightful process that delivers a sea of aesthetic pleasure. The oval-shaped buds unhurriedly bloom, revealing to the gaze huge, with a diameter of up to ten centimeters, double flowers with lots of delicate petals: up to thirty pieces can be counted on each flower. These works of art are painted in bright, flashy colors: purple-pink and dark cherry.
The edges of the flowers are paler than the main color, in some cases the middle is ruby-colored. The reverse side of the velvety petals is lighter, with a silvery shade. By the end of the season, the flowers become more saturated, similar in color to the juicy, overripe fruits of the cherry. Flowers of a cup-shaped form bloom singly or are collected several pieces in brushes. The subtle aroma is light and pleasant, reminiscent of the smell of the oldest pink varieties.
Climbing Rose Parade blooms several times in a season.
The Rose Parade belongs to re-flowering roses, that is, it pleases with lush flowers several times a season with short breaks. Compared to single-flowering roses, which throw all their wealth onto the court of spectators only once in the summer, this variety blooms less abundantly, but much longer.
Flowers can be obtained in the first year of planting, but mostly the Parade rose blooms in the second year. More active flowering occurs on last year's shoots.
ATTENTION! With proper care each year the number of blooming flowers will increase.
Planting climbing roses Parade in the open ground
Planting climbing roses Parade, carried out at the end of spring, before planting seedlings need to be placed in the input for 30 minutes
Climbing rose Parade, like other roses, is planted in open ground in late spring - early summer, so that it becomes comfortable and strong by winter. Landing is also possible at the end of summer, but this is too risky for our strip. Place for planting climbing roses Parade is better to choose the sun, although it can live in partial shade. However, in a well-lit area, flowering will be more active and lush. The Rose Parade will feel comfortable in an open area accessible to the walking wind (but not to the northern ice draft), which instantly saves the leaves from rainwater, the presence of which can increase the risk of developing fungal diseases.
The rose likes friable soils saturated with useful substances, with thorough drainage, therefore ground waters should be at least one and a half meters from the soil surface.
For planting roses Parade will be enough of a strip of soil half a meter wide. Land should be properly prepared before planting. Яму глубоко перекапывают и добавляют органические удобрения: компост или перепревший навоз (по половине ведра в отдельную лунку).Inside the pit, the roots need a free location, they should not be bent, so it is better to dig a hole fifty centimeters deep.
Seedlings are placed in water for thirty minutes in advance, adding root formation stimulants.
After this procedure, the young plants are placed in a prepared pit, the roots are loosely placed, covered with earth and compacted. At the final stage of planting, the Parade rose is well watered and pruned, leaving shoots fifteen centimeters high, which is necessary for high-quality flowering.
If the Parade rose is used as an object for decorating and decorating walls, then it is planted at a distance of forty-five centimeters from the landscaped structure.
Parade plinth rose used to decorate the walls
If it is difficult to find a place for planting a parade on the garden plot, as the groundwater comes too close to the surface, then this situation can be overcome as follows: a hole is dug out that does not reach the groundwater, it is poured with concrete or laid on the bottom of a flat stone. Ground is poured on top and a plant is planted. This technique will not allow the waters to get to the roots of roses.
The most difficult thing is that the parade rose must be covered for the winter
It is not easy to save the shoots of climbing roses Parade in winter.
A delicate climbing rose for protection from winter frosts must be covered. In the fall, shrubs spud up to a height of thirty centimeters, creating a kind of mound from garden soil. After that, the rose is covered with dry leaves, tree branches or special covering material. After establishing steady frosts construct a shelter.
The complexity of the winter preservation of roses The parade lies in the fact that you need to cover absolutely all the whips, for which they need to bend down to the ground. If we consider that the rose grows large, then it is not easy to do. However, it is still necessary to bend the shoots of roses to the ground, pin them and snatch them. Well established itself as a covering material lutrasil - non-woven fabric made of synthetics. Under this matter, the Rose Parade will survive the winter well and retain all its whips.
With the onset of spring, it is very important to open the roses at a certain point in order to prevent the blooming. It is necessary to open flowers consistently. First, they get rid of lapnik and unravel the bushes, then cover them with light cloth to protect them from the hot sun and sudden changes in temperature. After the final frosts, the roses open completely.
IMPORTANT! Open roses better in cloudy weather.
Ways of breeding climbing rose Parade
Propagating climbing rose Parade layering, grafting, seeds and cuttings.
The easiest way to use the method of reproduction layering or cuttings. If you want to propagate the rose with the help of seeds, then it is better to purchase them in the store due to the fact that the collected seeds from garden roses do not retain signs of the mother plant, which means you can get another rose.
Climbing Rose Parade in the apartment
You can grow a parade rose not only in the garden, but it looks good on the balcony
In room conditions it is necessary to find a well-lit place for roses, for example, on a balcony. Watering requires regular and competent, between waterings should dry the top layer of the substrate. Water needs defended. Feed the rose with special fertilizers.
Diseases and pests
- Black spot - brown spots on the leaves, causing them to fall. Get rid of the disease with a solution of ferrous sulfate or Bordeaux mixture.
- Mealy dew - gray bloom on the leaves. Destroy it with the help of infusion of ash or mullein, as well as Bordeaux mixture.
- Gray rot causes rotting of the stalks, buds, shoots and leaves. Copper oxychloride solution will help to eliminate the disease.
- Thrips - small insects of yellow or brown color. Leaves damaged by these pests fall and die together with the buds. To clean the plant from parasites, it is sprayed with “Karbofos” or “Iskra”.
- Rose cicada - A small flying green insect. It sucks the juice from the leaves, so that they become marble, dry and fall. For deliverance sprayed "Intavir" or "Fufanon."
- Spider mite - for the rose Parade is a particularly dangerous insect, which can be eliminated with the help of decoctions of nettle, garlic extract, and the chemical means “Fitoverma” and “Aktellika”.
In stores and nurseries the price of a climbing rose seedling Parade varies from three hundred to four hundred and fifty rubles. For this money you can get a strong three-year sapling.
To properly plant a climbing rose after purchase, we recommend watching the video from expert Igor.
Reviews gardeners lovers on a variety of roses Parade
Larisa. Samara. I love the Parade climbing rose. I have it for a long time, winters beautifully, blooms gorgeous. Young shoots a little reddish. Buds are gaining quite a long time, but when they bloom, it starts to seem to me that I'm in paradise.
Yuliya. Kazan My climbing parade blossomed in the first year, though not abundant, there were rather single flowers, but in the second year I was delighted with the floral hat. I recommend everyone to decorate your garden with such a miracle.
Rose Double Delight, its features in the care can be found on the link.
Kristina. Moscow. I wanted a peach climbing rose Parade, and the red one blossomed. At first I was upset, and then the resulting beauty won me over. In addition, it is unpretentious in the care, we have adapted and do not experience difficulties with maintaining it in the winter.
Description of Climbing Rose Parade
Roses have been used by humans to decorate gardens and plots for hundreds of years. Over 30,000 varieties of roses have been bred, but breeders continue their work today.
Particularly bright and colorful are climbing roses, of which gardeners create exquisite compositions with hanging cascades of flowering branches (see photo).
Climbing roses are divided into 2 main groups - ramblers (“creeping”) with small flowers that bloom once and klymbery (“climbing”) - large-flowered, which bloom again during the whole season.
Rose Parade (Parade), the alternative name of Pareid is a Florybund class climbing climeter, which was bred in 1953 by the American breeder Yevgeny Berner. During his 45-year-old career, he created more than 60 varieties of roses and, after his death, he bequeathed part of his inheritance to graduates of Cornell University to continue his selection work on roses.
The Rose Parade was obtained by hybridizing from the mother plant, the New Dawn rose. This variety is especially appreciated by the French, and they are considered the best rosewood growers.
Climbing rose - a perennial liana.
The bush is sprawling, powerful, 2-3 meters high, up to 2 meters wide
The shoots are thin, flexible, well-branched, the branches often bend under the weight of the flowers, so support is required.
The foliage is plentiful, dark green, shiny, decorative.
The flowers are large, 9-10 cm in size, saucer-shaped, consist of 30-33 petals, dense-double, gathered in inflorescences from 3 to 5 pieces.
Color: Pink petals with a glossy shade and pearl tints, become cherry by the end of the season.
Duration of flowering: the buds bloom slowly, blooms throughout the summer, sometimes leaves before winter with inflorescences retain decorative for a long time. Flowering period from June to September.
The aroma is light, pleasant, unobtrusive, reminiscent of bergamot.
Resistance to powdery mildew and black spot is high.
Resistance to rain is average, tolerates heavy, but intermittent rain. Due to the fact that under the weight of the inflorescences shoots bend, rain does not fall into the cup of the flower.
A serious advantage of the variety is its unpretentiousness, the cultivation of a climbing rose. The parade is up to the beginner growers.
Climbing roses are most often used for vertical decoration of the garden, especially where supporting structures allow the plant to harden. They are suitable for decorating arbors, arches, columns, trellis. They decorate fences and outbuildings.
Roses varieties Parade can grow as a regular bush. To do this, his shoots must be cut when forming a bush.
Climbing roses are very well combined in landscape design with other climbing plants, they look especially beautiful in the vicinity of blue clematis and coniferous trees.
In Europe, this variety was named the Climbing Parade, it is distinguished by the classic pink color. The flowers are terry, gathered in a racemes.
This variety Parade can be grown in indoor conditions as a pot culture. This home rose is called Parade Mix. It blooms regardless of the season, about 5-6 months with a dormant period of 2 months. Plant height 45-50 cm, flowers of medium size and different colors. The most beautiful of the Rose Parade group is the Rose Star.
Soil preparation and planting pit
The soil needs to be prepared. To do this, dig it, add ½ a bucket of compost or rotted manure to each well. If the soil is sandy - add clay at the rate of 10-15 kg per square meter. meter, if clay - 20 kg of sand and 3-4 kg of peat. Peat is applied in advance, 5-6 months before planting.
Roses do not tolerate acidic soil, therefore, if the pH is less than 6, lime or chalk or dolomite flour is added to the soil.
Pit for planting digging size 50x50 cm at a distance of 2-3 meters from each other. Depth of landing is 55-65 cm. The fertile layer must be at least 30 cm.
Experienced growers advise pre-planting events to be held in the fall, and planting of a seedling in the spring.
Before planting, the seedlings are placed in water for 30 minutes; some gardeners leave the seedling for a day. The roots and the aerial parts are shortened to 30 cm, the leaves, defective shoots and roots are cut off, the cut sections are covered with ashes. It is desirable to disinfect saplings with a 3% solution of copper sulphate. For better rooting use "Kornevin."
- A sapling is placed in a prepared pit so that the roots are free and half filled with earth, the graft should be 10 cm below the soil level,
- The earth is compacted and watered,
- Then the rest of the earth is laid and again well compacted and watered,
- If planting is done in the fall, the seedling is spud up to a height of 25 cm with earth, leaves from freezing, in the spring 20 cm is enough to dry out,
- When the groundwater is close to the ground, a stone is placed at the bottom of the landing pit or a cushion of concrete is formed so that the root system develops horizontally.
Planting seedlings climbing roses can be in the spring and autumn. The best time in the fall: September-October, in the spring - April-May.
Depending on the region, the dates may shift. In the middle lane, planting is carried out at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees, before budding begins.
In the south, planting saplings is recommended in autumn until mid-October, so that the plant can take root before the onset of frost.
Rules of care and cultivation in the garden
Care for a climbing rose The parade in the first year is not complicated: watering 3 times a month, loosening 2-3 days after watering and as the stems grow, the garter of the plant to the support. Top dressing is not required.
Caring for an adult plant, starting from the second year, is more complicated and responsible.
- The standard mode of watering an adult climbing rose 1 time in 10-12 days, a young seedling is watered more often - every other day,
- 10 l of water is enough for one bush; during the dry period, you can increase the amount of water up to 2 buckets,
- It is recommended to water with warm, better rainwater,
- Watering is necessary slowly, at the root, trying not to fall on the leaves,
- So that the moisture does not evaporate quickly after 2-5 days, it is necessary to pierce the earth around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm,
- Against dehydration of a plant, mulch pristine circles are used with straw, sawdust, foliage,
- The irrigation regime should be strictly verified: excess moisture leads to fungal diseases, lack of water leads to poor development of the bush, small flowers and soil salinity,
- Especially important when watering the formation of buds
- At the end of flowering, watering and loosening are reduced, and in October they stop altogether so that the plant is ready for winter.
This type of roses, more than other climbing varieties, needs to be fed, it should be spent all summer every 10 to 20 days, but stop feeding during the flowering period.
Experts advise to conduct dressing according to the following scheme.
Thanks to the feeding, the plant will bloom profusely, and the buds will be brightly colored. Climbing rose Parade very well responds to fertilizing with mineral fertilizers.
The purpose of trimming climbing roses is to form a beautiful crown, maintaining a healthy shrub and obtaining strong and long flowering. Trimming is carried out in the spring after lifting the shelter and in the fall before the start of frosts. There is a rule of pruning: the number of pruned shoots must be equal to the number of remaining.
In the spring in late April - early May, sanitary pruning of frozen, broken shoots is carried out, and the ends of the branches are cut to the first bud for better branching. Trimming is carried out with a sharp instrument at an angle of 45 degrees above the kidney.
Three-year and four-year shoots are cut to the ground, as they bloom weak or may not be at all. Form a bush, leaving 3-7 shoots of last year’s and 4–5 annual branches (the Parade rose blooms on both new and last year’s shoots).
In the summer, faded lashes and inflorescences are removed to stimulate flowering on new shoots as needed. Undergrowth is cut under the root, coming from the base of the bush, otherwise the bush will degenerate and lose its species characteristics.
In the autumn in October - November, after the end of flowering, shrubs are shortened to the size of a support and remove undisturbed thin weak shoots.
Inexperienced gardeners can use a lightweight version of pruning: shorten the entire bush by half and cut out the old, broken, defective shoots.
Shelter for the winter and care for the rose in the spring
Shelter for the winter is necessary to save the plant from frost, only in the south the climbing rose is not removed from the supports.
The bush is untied from the supporting structure, laid on the ground, covered with dry grass and covered with dry leaves and spruce branches. The difficulty is that with this method it will be necessary to remove all the lash of the plant, bend it to the ground, pin it down and cover each one.
Important! The tops of the lashes must not touch the ground.
For shelter you can use spunbond or lutrasil. Before the shelter all the foliage with lashes breaks. Remove the scourge from the supports begin 1.5 months before the shelter, it is better to do it in dry weather.
With the onset of spring, it is important to open the roses at the right moment to prevent decay. The plants are opened gradually: the spruce branches are first removed, then the roses are covered with matter to protect from the sun and sudden changes in temperature, and only a few days later the roses are opened completely. Open better in cloudy weather.
Requirements for supports for roses
The support is installed at a distance of 45-50 cm from the plant. The most commonly used materials for the supports: metal, wood, plastic. The support should be durable, resistant to moisture, frost, not corrode. The support is selected so that with the growth of the plant it can withstand the increasing weight.
For the prevention of infections supporting structures are treated with special protective equipment. Silicone twine is used to tie the rose to the support structure; wire cannot be used.
Characteristic Rose Parade
Variety Parade was bred by American breeders back in 1953 by crossing the widely known New Down variety and other climbing species. From the New Down Parade inherited an interesting flower structure and unpretentiousness to the conditions of growth.
The parade belongs to the climeber category, that is, the shoots of the rose bush can “climb” on supports and various surfaces, densely covering any area with their vegetation. The variety is characterized by bulky powerful bushes that can grow on almost any soil, even in the shade. Quickly taking root in the new conditions, roses grow quickly, forming impassable thickets. The maximum height of the bushes can reach 3.5-4 meters. Shoots have good growth power. In one year, whips grow by 1-2 meters, or even more. Each shoot is formed by dozens of lush buds. The most "juicy" flowers are formed on annual shoots, while the young branches form flowers with a less intense color.
Another feature of the Parade is the presence of long, thin and very flexible shoots, which can, if necessary, be sent in any direction.
In landscape design, the Parade is valued not only for the extraordinary beauty of the flowers, but also for the very decorative foliage. In the warm season, it has a bright dark emerald brilliant color, and small leaves are delicate and smooth in structure - due to this, even a non-flowering shrub looks attractive. But, naturally, rose bushes achieve greater entertainment during intensive flowering. Large tight buds appear one by one or by brushes of 4-5 pieces.
At Parade huge flowers (up to 10 centimeters in diameter) of unusual colors, from light to dark pink. Flowers bloom non-uniformly, adding bush flowers to the bush every day. Распустившиеся бутоны имеют нежные махровые лепестки, которые окрашены в ярко-розовый или бордовый цвета, со светлыми концами и кроваво-красным переливом по центру. Обратная сторона цветка имеет более приглушенную окраску с легким серебристым отливом.
Цветение роз наступает в середине июня и продолжается до конца лета. At this time, roses are fragrant to the whole district, giving others a delicate sweet aroma that attracts pollinating insects. According to the structure, the flowers are cupped, stuffed with multi-layer double petals. This form allows the flowers to endure strong gusts of wind and rain, without crumbling and without spoiling its spectacular appearance until the very autumn.
Parade refers to the varieties of universal use. It can be planted both separately and in compositions with other climbers. Effectively, it looks like a standard bush (if you constantly pruning) or in vertical gardening. By the way, here the summer resident has a place to roam, because roses of this variety can be placed on the fence, on the trellis, let go along the wall, decorate an arch or column with them, ennoble a garden arbor, etc.
In addition to decorative properties, the Parade variety has other unique characteristics that allow gardeners to plant it on their own plots without fear. Climbing rose quite winter-hardy. In the southern regions, it can be grown without shelter for winter time. There is also a strong immunity to diseases such as powdery mildew, black spot, rot. These roses are quite unpretentious to the conditions of growth and care.
Along with the massive advantages of the Parade has one relatively small drawback: roses do not tolerate prolonged waterlogging.
Rose Parade does not need painstaking care. On the contrary, she feels better if she is given the “will” to roam along the surface she has allocated. Only in the first year young saplings require increased attention, then the care almost comes to naught.
The first time the planted seedlings particularly need water, so they arrange watering every 7-10 days depending on the weather. Then the amount of watering is reduced to once in 14 days. So that the moisture does not evaporate quickly, it is recommended to mulch the ground with sawdust or peat. Watered roses with warm water under the root. The earth is kept moist in the floor. Pouring tender plants in any case is not recommended, otherwise you can earn the disease and the death of a flower.
In the first year after planting, the roses are not fertilized, as they have enough of the nutrients that were added to the flower garden. From the second year, the plants begin to systematically feed, alternating organic matter and minerals. During the season, it is permissible to arrange 5-6 feedings:
- The first two are carried out at the beginning of the growing season, in the spring. In these times, a mullein or a nitrogen fertilizer diluted with water (nitrate + urea) is applied.
- Before flowering mineral compounds are used, based on phosphorus and potassium. You can also add mullein, bird droppings, and horse droppings to them, but in less concentration than the first time. Bring also ashes. Use liquid potash based supplements.
- The following dressing arrange after flowering. Feed the plants with complete mineral fertilizer, significantly reducing or completely removing the proportion of nitrogen. A good rose responds to useful watering with infusion of nettle - it significantly increases the viability of plants weakened by flowering.
- The last time fertilizers are applied at the end of the summer in order to strengthen the plants for the winter. This time phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied.
Climbing roses, though they are winter-hardy, still require shelter for the winter, especially in the year of planting. Before shelter in the middle of autumn, the lashes are removed from the support, after cutting off damaged shoots, flowering buds, old leaves. To prevent the roses from getting sick in winter, the plants are sprayed with 3% Bordeaux liquid or iron sulfate. With the onset of sustained frosts, the bushes are neatly folded and covered with spruce fur branches, after carefully filling the base with peat or leaves. Bend the rose only in warm weather, otherwise the frozen shoots may break.
If the bush has not grown much yet, then it will be advisable to cover it with a wooden or metal frame that will protect young bushes from freezing in extreme cold and a little snowy winter. Adult bushes folded compactly will not succeed, therefore, for warming over a spruce carpet carpeted film or other dense material that will protect plants from the burning cold.
They take shelter as soon as the snow melts and becomes warm. It is important at this point to prevent overheating of plants, accumulation of water condensate. To do this, first clear the base of the bush from peat or grass, and after a few days completely free the bushes. So that they do not get burns from intense spring ultraviolet radiation, a protective awning is installed over the bushes. As soon as the plants get used to the environmental conditions, the awning is removed. Then the whips are carefully unfolded and placed on the fence, secured and carried out spring pruning, which includes the formation of a bush and the removal of diseased, frozen and weakly growing shoots. At the base of the bushes you can see the wild shoots that need to be uprooted, as it strongly inhibits the growth of the main stem and creates a sloppy look to the bush.
After pruning and fixing on supports, carry out prophylactic spraying against pests and diseases of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate. The soil around the bushes dig up or deeply loosened, adding minerals and organic matter.
Summer pruning in order to increase the intensity of flowering. To do this, cut off the flowering buds with 1-2 true leaves above the fruiting bud.
Rose Parade skillfully combines characteristics such as unpretentiousness, disease resistance, longevity. In addition, the variety - the owner of one of the most beautiful inflorescences in the pink world. This is noted by millions of gardeners who grow this selective breeding miracle in their gardens.
Roses are my favorite flowers. A lot of varieties grow on my site, but the Parade is always the most beautiful. By the way, it's not for nothing that they called it that way - the rose grows at my main entrance to the house. We made an improvised arch out of it, which in the summer is full of color and pleasant aroma. The biology of roses is such that on young shoots the flowers have a less bright shade than on last year's. This feature makes the bush even more spectacular because of the variegation of color. Buds open slowly and alternately, but a lot of them and it seems that they bloom all in a crowd. I recommend a grade.
Of climbing roses, Parade, perhaps the most spectacular variety. I like stuffed tight little buds that tenaciously sit on a sturdy leg. Thanks to this structure, the flowers do not fall apart over time, do not crumble with wind and rain.
I Parade variety showed itself only in the third year after disembarkation. The first year did not bloom at all. And in the second year there were few flowers, I thought here that the earth could be bad or a bush got sick. However, this year the situation has leveled off naturally. The bush has already grown quite large, about two meters high and one and a half wide. The color is huge red flowers. I think this is such a feature in the Parade - it is gaining momentum for a long time, but then it “shoots” with such beauty that the whole district comes to admire.