Many gardeners know well what irreparable harm a carrot fly can do. This nondescript creature can be a real disaster, if you do not take action in time and do not begin to fight it.
In order for the carrot harvest to be good, there are certain ways to get rid of the main pest. Using them will help to cope. with the invasion of carrot flies and protect not only carrots, but also other vegetable crops.
To fight with a fly, to harvest a healthy crop, you can and should. The struggle is not easy, but the winner is always a man.
What does the malicious pest of carrot beds look like?
The body of the insect is small - about 5 mm, black with a greenish tint, shiny. Brown head, and the wings, like a normal room fly, are elongated and transparent.
The invader lays white eggs, which are almost impossible to see on the garden bed. They appear around May, on the lumps of earth at the very roots of the planted carrots. Egg laying lasts about 50 days, taking June, and sometimes July.
Voracious larvae - worms with a translucent yellowish body - about 5 mm in length, lay rusty, winding passages in the roots. Unfortunately, the fact that carrots are damaged by a pest, most often can be found only at harvest. Damaged roots are not stored, although they can be used as food.
After most carrots are damaged, the larvae go to the ground and pupate. At this stage, the struggle is almost useless. Pupae overwinter in the soil, and if the winter is not too frosty, then in the spring hordes of flies will appear again in your beds and the cycle will continue. It is necessary to fight the pest and get rid of it before the larvae come out of the eggs.
This insect does the greatest harm in rainy years. In wet weather, egg-laying can continue all summer, and the second-generation larvae do not have time to pupate and, together with the harvest, enter storage sites. There they continue to eat, damaging carrots that seemed healthy. As a result, you can lose most of the roots already in storage. It is impossible to fight with the larvae when the harvest is already harvested and stored. We'll have to restrict the removal of damaged roots when reassembling.
How to know that the pest attacked your garden beds
When inspecting crops of carrots you need to pay attention to some signs that the fly has already settled on your garden bed.
- Some leaves began to turn yellow and dry, the tops taken on a bluish-purple hue.
- The portion of the root crop, protruding above the ground, also turns blue.
- In the place where the tops are connected to the root, larval passages can be seen. In this case, you are late with the fight against the pest and the measures taken will affect only the next harvest.
- Cracking carrots.
When the first hint of infection of the beds, you need to immediately begin to fight pest. When damaged by the larva, the roots become tasteless. They lose sweetness and resemble wood..
How can and should we fight a carrot fly with agrotechnical methods
When choosing a place for planting carrots, one should give preference to loose, light, cultivated soils with a neutral reaction. If the soil on your site is heavy, then you need to "ease" it. To do this, when digging add rotten sawdust, ventilated peat and, of course, sand.
Be sure to dig deep in the soil in early autumn - autumn perekopka. During winter frosts, most of the pupae, which will be on the surface, will die.
Good results are given by:
- early sowing - as soon as the soil allows,
- timely weeding - a fly can lay eggs at the roots of weeds,
- thinning carrots - the harvest will be better, and the larvae more difficult to get to the roots,
- changing planting places - changing places for carrot beds can save a significant part of the crop.
- Planted varieties of carrots that are resistant to this fly.
All these agrotechnical methods significantly help to fight against insects.
Folk remedies to protect the beds from carrot flies
Before turning to chemicals, you should try folk remedies that are very effective.
The pest is attracted to chlorogenic acid, which is responsible for carrot flavor. Above the carrot beds there is literally a cloud of odorous substance, which is almost not felt by our olfactory receptors, but it is very much like the fly. Many popular methods of struggle are aimed at reducing this smell. To get rid of the flies used a variety of non-chemical substances:
- Garlic infusion. Approximately 300 grams of cloves mince, pour two liters of boiling water and leave for 24 hours. Dilute in 10 liters of water and spray planting.
- Mustard powder. They sprinkle the beds in the period when the fly begins to lay eggs.
- Tobacco dust and ash. Sprinkle the beds so that the carrot fly cannot lay eggs.
- Wormwood. Fresh plant poured boiling water. After cooling, mixed with 10 -15 liters of water and added to the wells when planting or sprayed tops of young plants. About 300 grams of wormwood is enough for this amount of water.
- Tomato plant. Used later than other plants. About 4 kg of green shredded tops are placed in a bucket and poured boiling water. Boil for half an hour and insist 5 hours. Strain, diluted in 10 liters of water, add two tablespoons of liquid soap and spray the plants.
If the listed funds do not help, then you have to switch to chemicals.
How and when to use chemicals
Many gardeners use chemicals as a last resort if traditional methods do not help. This is due to the desire to grow organic vegetables. The desire is natural and correct, but there are situations when insecticides are indispensable.
Chemistry is most often used on large acreage, where it is much more difficult to keep track of the appearance of a carrot fly, than on a small bed. The list of drugs is quite large:
- Arrivo. Highly toxic drug of long contact-intestinal action.
- Karate Contact drug.
- Inta-Vir. Broad spectrum of action. Affects the nervous system of the pest - paralyzes and leads to death.
- Decis. Contact intestinal action. Moderately dangerous to humans.
- Wolaton. Contact-intestinal action. The term of protection is short.
- Other drugs.
Many drugs are quite toxic for bees - the indispensable pollinators of our gardens and gardens, so their use should be justified.
How specifically to use one or another drug to combat carrot fly, described in detail in the instructions. Follow the instructions strictly. and be sure to use protective equipment.
Comprehensive activities will help quickly get rid of the insect. Proper agricultural technology, traditional methods of struggle and chemicals will keep your beds in good order for a long time, and the carrots will grow juicy, sweet and healthy.
The appearance of the insect
Carrot fly - a black insect found everywhere in the European part of Russia. The length of her body is 4.5-5 mm.
The wings of the fly are transparent, and the head and legs are yellow. Years of insect, depending on the region, begins in the second decade of May. As a rule, the beginning of flowering of mountain ash and apple trees serves as a guide.
Fly larvae have a length 6-7 mm. Their body is painted in a light yellow color, it is elongated, with a slightly dulled end.
Next you will see a photo of carrot flies:
An insect hibernates in the soil in the form of a pupa. If suddenly there are roots in the field, the larvae that have survived in them can also successfully overwinter.
When the air temperature is reached + 15-17 ° C flies fly out. This pest loves the shadow; it is found in damp, shaded places, near water and hedges made from living shrubs. In the open, the fly does less harm.
Emitted insects lay eggs in May: from the 15th day to the end of the month. If the spring is cold, the clutch may occur in early June, when a couple of leaflets appear in the carrot. Females lay eggs in the ground near the plants.
Individual insects live for about 12 days. The period of their summer and laying eggs is 1-1.5 months.
Larvae appear on 4-17 day after the eggs have been laid. It depends on the temperature. They feed on plant juices for about 3 weeks, after which they crawl into the soil, where they begin to pupate.
Having poured, insects creep out to the surface. They form the second generation of garden pests. Their years begin in mid-July and end in mid-August..
Females lay eggs in densely growing crops. In the fall, some of the larvae have time to pupate, while others with the crop fall into storage, where they continue to damage it, feeding on the juice of vegetables.
What eats pest?
Larvae that develop from eggs, immediately dig into delicate plants. Most often they rush into the tips of their roots. They gnaw at them moves that acquire an ugly shade of rust. Root crops look unpresentable, become tasteless.
What plants are susceptible to damage?
This insect affects not only carrots. From him are able to suffer parsnip and celery, and parsley.
A fly especially loves wet and shaded areas. It is in such places she causes the greatest damage to the crop.
Signs of infection
To determine that the roots are affected by this fly, you can on the following grounds:
- leaves of the plant become purple in color, after which they turn yellow and dry,
- on root vegetables, winding passages are visible, transverse cracks,
- carrot becomes ugly, there are pronounced constriction on it.
If the plant is badly damaged, it may die. Usually, damage to roots is located close to the point of root growth. In the vegetable stores, the larvae crawl from one carrot to another, penetrating into the core. Externally, the damage looks like those that are applied by wireworms.
Methods of struggle and prevention
How to protect carrots from carrot flies? To prevent carrot and other umbrella crops from this fly, the following measures should be taken:
- choose carrot-resistant varieties: these are Vitamin 5, Calgeri F1, Perfection,
- avoid shady areas and wet areas when planting carrots,
- sow culture is not very thick: it applies to dill, celery, parsley,
- process seeds with biologics: trichodermine, as well as azotofit, phytocide-p,
- dig deep beds in the fall, turning layers over so that the insects in the spring could not get to the surface,
- moderately water crops,
- plant carrots on the beds where tomatoes, garlic or onions were previously grown.
To combat the carrot fly with the noble means include the following:
- Dusting crops with tobacco dust, black or red pepper, dry mustard.
- Infusion of wormwood: for its preparation, a 10-liter bucket is filled with fresh wormwood and the grass is poured with boiling water. After cooling, the infusion is divided into 3 parts and diluted with every 8 liters of water. The resultant means is watering the beds, and the wormwood remaining after filtering the infusion is laid out between them.
- Tomato infusion: 4 kg of tops are poured with 10 liters of water and boil for about 5 hours. Filter the broth, add 50 ml of soap to it in liquid form, dilute with 3 parts of water and spray the beds with it.
To achieve excellent results, crops should be processed monthly. Compliance with all the rules will tell you how to get rid of carrot flies in the garden. Simple and completely safe ways of dealing with the fly will allow you to get an excellent harvest and save it throughout the long winter.
In conclusion we offer you a video about the selection of carrot fly resistant carrots:
Carrot fly (Chamaepsila rosae) is a flying insect belonging to the large family Psilidae. Her body length is not great at all: 4–4.5 mm, so she often eludes the eyes of a person.
Morphological characteristics of carrot flies:
- the abdomen and thorax of a black fly, with a shiny surface and a whitish down.
- the small head is red-brown, and the legs are yellow.
- long oblong wings, transparent with brown streaks, are characteristic of carrot flies.
On a photo the carrot fly which reached puberty
The insect females lay white oval-shaped eggs. From them larvae are born, whose length is about 0.5 cm. Their body is poor-yellow, with a glossy shine. The larva has no head and paws: it has a solid worm-like body, slightly tapering in front. The posterior end is rounded, and next to it are the spiracles. It is in this form that the pest causes damage to the trees. This means that the grower must know how to deal with a carrot fly in the garden when the insect is in a state of larvae.
The next phase of insect development is a light-brown pupa, having a segmented body. It appears from the larvae in the fall. Speaking about this stage of pest transformation, you need to tell how and where the carrot fly hibernates: it is her pupae that climb into the soil to a depth of about 10–25 cm before the onset of cold weather. Far from all of them survive, but those that remain with the onset of heat will turn into adults . Also pest larvae can live in stored stored carrots.
After hibernation, the larvae begin to activate with the arrival of spring heat. Prompt, when this time comes, will help a kind of indicator: the blooming of lilac, apple, bird cherry, which coincides with the awakening of a carrot fly after the cold weather. At this time, the soil is already heated enough.
Favorite places of carrot flies - beds with wet soil, located in the shade. If the summer is rainy, then the population increases several times more than in dry and hot. Pest activity occurs in the morning and evening hours, while at noon the fly seeks to hide in secluded corners and in the grass from the scorching sun.
After mating with an individual of the opposite sex, the female lays eggs. All of them for its existence, it can postpone up to 120 pieces. This occurs at the end of May, approximately 25–40 days after the appearance of carrot shoots.
The female lays eggs either at the root neck of the sprouts, or at a slight distance from them, in a well-moistened soil, because without water, the future offspring is doomed to death.
Under optimal conditions, the air temperature is 20–24 and its humidity is above 60% after 4–7 days larvae hatch from eggs. If the weather is colder, the process is delayed: it can take 17 days. If the air humidity is below 60%, then most of the offspring die.
After the birth of the larvae move to the young roots, to begin to feed on their juicy flesh, doing in it numerous and ornate moves. The process of weight gain due to the nutrients of the donor plant lasts about 3 weeks. The larva quickly grows in size and soon, when the time comes, it turns into a pupa. The process of pupation occurs in the soil at a depth of 10 cm.
Photo of carrot fly larva gnawing a root vegetable
A carrot fly in one summer has time to implement 2 generations. The second imago appears at the very end of July and August. Individuals have time to lay eggs, but individuals that have emerged from them will not have time to become an adult insect, remaining to spend the winter in the form of a pupa or, more rarely, larvae.
Harm and symptoms
The larvae of carrot flies, parasitic on root vegetables and other plants, harm them. The signs and effects of insect activity are:
- changes in the color of the leaves or leaves - at first they acquire an unnatural purple hue, then begin to turn yellow and gradually dry up,
- the top of the carrot, peeking over the surface of the soil, also becomes lilac,
- if you carefully examine the root collar of the root with a magnifying glass, then the moves made in it by the larva are noticeable.
- when cutting the carrot, you can also see the moves of the brown shade,
- the root crop begins to rot, because through the mechanical damage to its surface, done by the larvae of the pest, bacteria penetrate.
- carrots covered bumpy formations.
Root crop exudes an unpleasant odor, making the product unappetizing, and its flesh is coarse. To avoid this, you need to know the methods of dealing with carrot fly.
Carrot fly has a long period of summer, so it is very prolific. The fight against it is complicated by the fact that when the larvae penetrate the root crop, it is almost impossible to destroy them. Therefore, the protection of landings need to take care in a timely manner.
Protection of plantings in the garden against pests includes, first of all, preventive measures, the adoption of which will help prevent the occurrence of carrot flies on the site or significantly reduce the population size. The idea is to create unfavorable conditions for the insect in the beds.
Here are some simple rules on how to save carrots from carrot flies:
- Observe crop rotation.This means that for several years in a row it is impossible to occupy the same bed of a certain culture and even other members of a non-family. This is a universal rule, which allows to protect plants to some extent from pests: not finding a useful food in a familiar place, some of them will leave the site.
- Weed weeds. Wild plants from the Umbrella family are especially attractive to carrot flies. Common clover and dandelion serve as food for adult flies. Therefore, it is desirable that these plants are not next to farmed carrots, celery, daikon, etc.
- It is recommended to plant carrots as early as possible (if possible, when the weather is right).
- Give preference to carrot fly resistant varieties: Nantik Resistaflay F1, Calgary F1, Olympus, Amsterdam, Nantes 4, Chantonne. They have a low content of chlorogenic acid, the smell of which is attractive to the pest.
- Choose for planting root dry and easily ventilated soil without stagnant water. Carrot fly prefers to lay eggs in a moist soil: so the larvae will be born much faster, and if drought they die. Therefore, if the ground is not well moistened, the female of the fly will most likely not lay eggs on it.
- We need to regularly weed and loosen the beds with carrots. Aeration of the soil changes the nature of the gas exchange in it to be unfavorable for the fly, and the development of larvae slows down.
Compliance with preventive rules is unable to protect plantings completely, but they are the basis for their protection from the pest.
Treating carrots from carrot flies with chemical insecticides is not the safest way to control a pest. But when it comes to saving the crop, this method is most effective and justified. The main thing is to comply with all the requirements specified in the instructions for the drugs: method of use and timing, dosage and precautions. Each insecticide is individual.
All chemicals from carrot flies can be divided into 3 large categories:
- For seed treatment before planting in the spring. These insecticides make future plants more resistant to pest damage. For this purpose, the “Prestige” is effective.
- For scaring adult carrot flies from the beds. The use of funds will help avoid laying eggs by females around the landings. These drugs are very toxic and retain their properties for a month after use, so if the crop is harvested during this period, it will be unsuitable for food and can cause poisoning of the body. Karate and Arrivo are used to scare away carrot flies during their summer.
- To destroy the larvae. For this purpose, diazinone-based preparations are suitable: “Basudin”, “Lukhoed”, “Prototoks”, intended for the control of soil pests. Usually they are granules that need to be embedded in the ground. These drugs are included in the list, which can be used to cultivate the land from a carrot fly in the fall. The larvae and pupae, in contact with the insecticide insecticides, quickly die.
Biological means of protection
Fighting carrot fly with the use of biological effects - a compromise between efficiency and safety. Apply the drug "Aktofit" against the pest: only 10 ml is diluted in 5 l of water. It is necessary to spray the beds with carrots with a trained composition (5 liters will be enough for 1 hundred square meters).
Biologics are slower than chemical insecticides. But they are safe for health, because they do not contain toxic substances.
If the carrot is already infected
But often, precautionary measures and the use of funds are not enough, and the larvae still affect the root. In this case, the question arises how to store carrots damaged by a carrot fly.
Unfortunately, such root crops will have to be eliminated, because even at low temperatures the larvae will continue their parasitic activity and will be able to pupate. Store affected carrots can only be in a processed form: dried, grated and frozen, canned.
Carrot fly is a pest that infects roots and makes them unsuitable for storage. To achieve a better result in combating it, it is better to use a set of measures: prevention, the use of folk remedies and, if mass destruction was not avoided, the use of chemical insecticides and biological preparations.
Description and life cycle of the pest
Carrot fly can damage a significant part of the crop. Every gardener should know what a pest looks like, what signs signal an appearance. The insect also settles on parsnip, celery, parsley, less often - on dill, cumin, hemlock.
The size of an adult fly is 4-5 mm. The color is greenish, the head is round, covered with rusty-yellowish setae. A black spot is visible on the crown of the simple eyes. Antennae with bright yellow fibers are located under the prominent forehead. The wings are wide, shiny, green hue. Paws yellow, slightly elongated in front.
Larvae size is 5-7 mm in length. The color is pale yellow, glitters. Front body with a sharp end, rounded back with black stigmas. The larva forms a pupa (pupar) of elongated oval shape, brown color. The first flies appear at a steady-state temperature of 15-17 ° C. Depending on the region - at the end of April or in May. At about the same time, the bird cherry tree, lilac, apple tree are blooming, which will prompt you to take preventive measures to scare away insects in time.
Causes of carrot flies
The pest is ubiquitous, especially common in the European part of Russia and Siberia, it prefers high humidity. It causes various ailments and diseases of carrots and other crops. The main reasons for the appearance:
- Failure of crop rotation. You can not grow carrots and having similar diseases and pests for several years at the same place. It is necessary to make a break for 3-4 years.
- Imbalance of the carrot fly and its insect enemies. The problem is the excessive and improper use of chemicals that lead to the death of the natural enemies of the flies.
What harm does the carrot fly
Adults practically do not harm plants. The main damage is caused by the larvae. They feed on roots, gnawing at them long strokes. To eat such carrots is undesirable, especially to leave for long storage. If time does not take action to eliminate carrot flies, most of the harvest may be lost. At the same time, the plot becomes densely populated by insect pupae. Next year they will be much more.
Signs of pest damage
The fly is small, so it is difficult to notice. Presence on plants is detected by the following signs of the appearance of a fly:
- The leaves become red, then purple. Subsequently turn yellow and die.
- On the roots there are bumps and growths, inside you can see darkened moves. Then they are deformed, cracked, rotten, exude an unpleasant smell.
- The taste of carrots becomes bitter, the structure - tough.
From the carrot flies will help protect the smell of other plants that it can not tolerate. You can alternate the rows of carrots and crops such as onions, marigolds, marigolds. It is important to observe crop rotation and not plant a vegetable for one place over the next 3-4 years.
Protection by nonwoven breathable material - lutrasil, spandbod, can help, you can use tulle. It is necessary to have planting on open, solar spaces as the carrot fly prefers a shadow and the increased humidity. For the same purpose, rare sowing culture, thinning.
Sowing time should be as early as possible, effective winter method. It is desirable to use varieties of carrots that are resistant to pest damage. You also need to be careful with watering, not to over-moisten the soil. It is enough to irrigate once a week, but plentifully. You can not feed carrots with fresh manure.
It is required to promptly remove damaged, rotted plants, periodically mulching between rows with dry peat.
Chemicals from carrot flies are considered the most effective. But in view of the danger they pose to human and animal health, it is justified to use it only on large areas or with severe infection of the beds. These methods of dealing with the fly are more often used when she has laid eggs and the larvae hatched. At this stage, other methods are useless.
You can use chemicals such as:
The beds should be processed in the morning or in the evening in dry, calm weather. The tablet is dissolved in water strictly according to the instructions, a weak solution will not bring the desired result, and it will still have a harmful effect. A more concentrated solution can lead to poisoning when eating root vegetables.
After processing carrots with chemicals, you can eat a vegetable no earlier than in a month. Therefore, biopreparations that are safe for human health are used. They are slower, but will come at the initial stage of infection. Good results are given by Actofit, Fitoverm, Summer Resident.
The surest way to protect carrots from carrot flies is to prevent them from appearing on beds. Compliance with the rules of agricultural engineering, spraying plant broth or infusions significantly reduce the risk of infection.
It is important to properly prepare the ground in the fall - to dig up to a great depth (25-30 cm), without breaking large clods of earth and not leveling the surface. In this case, the frost will destroy the pupae of the fly. When planting, it is possible to alternate the beds with plants that repel pest odor. Mandatory thinning in 2 stages, timely loosening, removal of weeds.
It will help protect the roots of the correct choice of carrots. Varieties resistant to carrot fly damage - Perfection, Calgeri F1, Vitamin 5, Flacca. They contain a large amount of sugar that the insect does not like. Also suitable varieties that do not have a strongly pronounced specific smell of tops.
Description of the carrot fly (photo)
The front sight is so small (reaches a maximum of 4.5 mm in length) that you will not notice it immediately. Externally, it is similar to the usual fly - the same shiny, black, with a greenish tint little body. The head of the insect is reddish, and the legs are yellowish. The larvae are microscopic whitish worms.
The carrot fly begins its activity in the period of apple, rowan and lilac flowering (i.e. in May). It was then that the overwintering pupae larva transformed into an imago, crawled out of the heated land and began to look for suitable beds for carrots and turnips (the insect gave particular preference to Daikon), parsley, parsnip.
Days after 25 is the laying of eggs on the sprouted shoots. The larvae are quite active and very quickly penetrate into the roots that have not yet formed. Somewhere in a month the larvae go to the soil, where they pupate. The second generation of flies appears in August, and the cycle repeats, but mature fruits are being eaten.
During the season, the 3rd generation of the pest has time to appear, it is his pupae who remain to spend the winter in the garden. Since this period is at the time of harvesting, some of the larvae remain in the roots, with which the carrots are laid in the storehouse. Such a crop will quickly become worthless.
Signs of carrot disease
Due to the very small size of the insect, it is difficult to visually detect it in the garden. In addition, the carrot fly is perfectly camouflaged in the leaf, and on the ground it is almost invisible. Therefore, you should be more attentive to the crops themselves in the beds.
In a plant affected by a pest, tops acquire a purple color with a reddish tinge. Then she begins to turn yellow and die. When harvesting carrots, infected root vegetables can be distinguished - they are covered with growths and have uneven formations. If you cut a carrot, then inside you can see the moves, gnawed by the larvae. Yes, and the taste of these roots tighter and have an unpleasant bitterness.
How to get rid of carrot flies: video
In the stores you can find a large selection of chemicals that were created specifically to combat garden pests - Aktara, Arivo, Detsis, Fitoverm. Insecticide with a specific name "Carrot Fly", based on a powerful tool - pyrifosmethyl, has an excellent effect.
Dilution of these drugs should be strictly according to the instructions, and processing of beds should be carried out only in dry and calm weather.
- It is necessary to take into account that if the weather is rather hot, then the effectiveness of chemicals decreases.
- An obstacle for high-quality processing of beds will also be fogs and dew.
- Evening hours (between 16 and 20 hours) are considered the best time for spraying plants.
It is also necessary to consider whether there is a nearby apiary, so as not to harm the beneficial insects. It is worth taking care of your own safety - work exclusively in a respirator and protective suit.
An alternative to chemicals is biological products that are harmless to the human body. Actofit is considered to be the most effective against carrot flies (but Dachnik can also be used). It is diluted at the rate of 20 ml per 10-liter bucket of water. This amount is enough for 2 weave garden.
Biologics are recommended to use more often than chemicals - both harmless to health and more effective against pests. But for "biological weapons" it is desirable to have a separate sprayer.
What smells scare away the fly?
About how to deal with small pests by repelling smells, already mentioned above. In addition to spraying the beds with fragrant infusions, you can lay out some means between the rows - the same orange peel, onion peel, odorous herbs and tops, naphthalene.
When planning the garden, you can take into account the reaction of flies to some odors and group the cultures together.
- If you plant onions among root crops, you get a double benefit - the onion fly does not like the aromas of umbrella crops, and the onion carrot is scared away.
- An excellent neighborhood can be considered beds with tomatoes - tomato tops that scare many pests.
- It is desirable that near the carrot beds were islands of horseradish - the tartness of its aroma is very unpleasant for a fly.
Having framed the beds with borders of fragrant herbs, the gardener will not only protect the culture from the invasion of parasites, but also create an interesting landscape on the site.
The content of the article
The leaves of the carrots turned purple-red, and then turned yellow and dried - then a small worm settled under the ground - a larva of a cabbage fly. The larva eats a root crop, eating away in it the courses. Along the moves in the root crop rot appears, the root crop becomes useless and it remains only to throw it away.
Methods of dealing with carrot fly
The main way to deal with carrot fly - agronomic method. No matter how harmed the carrot fly, proper agricultural techniques will help preserve the crop. In commercial farms, crop rotation is used as an agrotechnical protection against flies, sowing carrots no closer than 500-1000 meters from the place where it grew last year. These insects fly badly and it is impossible for them to overcome such a distance.
If a carrot fly began to fly around the garden with carrots, how to fight it? The following preventive measures can be used on the backyard plots against the onion fly:
- To pick up a variety resistant to carrot fly: Calgary, Flacca. The more a variety contains sugar, the less it attracts the pest.
- Flies prefer to lay their eggs in damp, shaded places. For planting carrots you need to choose the right place: the site should not be in the valley and be in the shade. Landings should be aired and warmed up.
- Usually sow carrots thickly, and then thinned. If the carrot fly each year intensively damages roots, then this method of cultivation is not recommended. Landings should be initially rare. Can be used for planting coated seeds or glued to tape.
- Before sowing, seeds are treated with anti-soil rot drugs: azotophyte, trichodermine or phytocide.
The chemical control method is used when the contamination of crops is more often than 1 larva per 20 plants. Plants are sprayed with drugs Arrivo, Karate and insecticides approved against the pest.
Fight against carrot fly folk remedies
The best method of dealing with this pest is prevention. It is important to observe the rotation. The best predecessors of carrots are garlic, tomatoes, radishes, onions. In the soil can not add manure as a fertilizer, but you can mulch planting peat.
The sooner the seeds are sown, the greater the chance that carrots will “get away” from the flies. When thinning the landings, the torn carrot plants should be removed away so that they do not attract flies to the site with their smell.
Как избавиться от морковной мухи, если она уже начала летать над грядками с морковью? Насекомых можно отпугнуть, посыпав растения любым резко пахнущим веществом, заглушающим запах моркови: черным или красным перцем, горчичным порошком, махоркой.
Хорошим способом отпугнуть мух являются смешанные посадки. Insect does not tolerate the smell of garlic and onions and does not lay eggs on the beds, where these crops are planted interspersed.
Proven remedy for carrot flies - wormwood infusion:
- Pick a 10-liter bucket of wormwood.
- Pour boiling water, wait until cool.
- Divide the infusion into three equal parts.
- Add 7 liters of water to each part of the infusion.
In most cases, to get rid of a harmful insect will not require any chemical treatments. Folk remedies will be quite enough to protect the crop from this pest.
How to deal with the larva of carrot flies?
On the garden plots it is better to deal with the larva mechanically:
- To root out and destroy yellowed plants.
- The larvae remaining to spend the winter in the garden can be destroyed by deep digging. Earth lumps simply turn over in the fall - then insects in the spring will not be able to get out of the soil outside.
How to treat carrots from carrot flies, if there are a lot of insects and neither the right agricultural technics nor the mechanical destruction of larvae and pupae can save them? Then insecticides will come to the rescue.
The chemical control of the larvae is carried out by the preparations of the fly-eater, Basudin, Provotoks. All three tools are designed to destroy soil insects, all have the same active ingredient - diazinon. The mechanism of action of the drugs next - creeping in the earth, the larva touches the poisonous granules and dies.
Effective watering carrots from carrot flies infusion of garlic or onion:
- Cut 200-300 grams of heads.
- Pour hot water (2 liters).
- Insist two days.
- Strain, add two spoons of liquid soap.
- Add a bucket of water.
- Spray the plants and aisles.
The treatment is repeated once a month.
These simple tips will help preserve the crop of carrots from pests.