Garden flowers, plants and shrubs

Persian lilac: description, varieties, planting, reproduction and care


Perhaps, there is no man who would not admire the beautiful flowering of lilac bushes in the spring.

This bush is very fond of landscape designers and ordinary gardeners. The plant not only decorates the area with its flowering, but also can serve atas a hedge. In addition, lilac is resistant to adverse climatic conditions and undemanding in care.

Lilac bushes can be found in parks, city squares and in summer cottages. The number of varieties of this plant is not too large and is only thirty varieties. But breeders are working on this issue and create new interesting bush hydrides, one of which is Persian lilac with beautiful and vibrant colors.

Features grade

One of the hybrids that have won the attention of gardeners, is a dwarf lilac. The plants of this variety have an unusual aroma and rather small stature. A species appeared as a result of the crossing of Afghan lilac with small-leaved varieties. The height of the bushes barely reaches two meters.

Like other species, the dwarf variety begins flowering in mid-May and can delight with its multicolor until mid-June. Varieties are distinguished by the color of their brushes, which appear in the fifth year after planting.

This type of lilac is a heat-loving plant, loves the sun very much and can even stop blooming if it is planted in a shady place.

This type of lilac in the southern regions feels very good. Therefore, it can be found in the south of Russia, in the parks of India, China and other countries where the climate is constantly warm. In the central part of our country also planted such shrubs. They take root here thanks unpretentiousness and sustainability to sudden changes in temperature. Another feature of Persian lilac is the possibility of re-flowering.

Planting and Care Rules

In order to admire the chic flowers every spring, you need to know the rules for planting and caring for plants.

First of all, you should know that it is very difficult to propagate this variety in the traditional way. The reasons are:

  • The plant does not form seeds.
  • The cuttings are also rarely successful, because the branches give poor roots.

The surest way to have such beauty in yourself is to purchase it in a proven breeding center. But this is not always possible due to the small number of proposals and the remoteness of such enterprises. Therefore, you need to pay attention to the vegetative mode of reproduction.

Young plants are planted in open ground to a permanent place. late fall. To do this, in a previously dug hole generously poured with a mixture of peat and sand. The ground sprinkles the ground to the base of the branches, leaving a few buds underground, so that the root system develops faster. For prophylaxis, before planting, the roots of a plant can be dipped in a mash from clay, and in the pit they should be carefully straightened.

After disembarkation, the bushes are abundantly watered. To make the Persian lilac more bushy, ten days after planting, the stems are pruned a little. Since the plant does not like excessive soil moisture, watering can be limited to the time of intensive growth of overgrowth and flowering, and even then, if there has been no rain for a long time.

Feed a flowering plant need only the third year of development.

Shrub does not require special care. It is enough to water well, so that the Persian lilac begins to loosen the earth under the bush after watering.

If you want Persian lilac to have a certain shape, you need to trim it and thin out if necessary. But cut the branches should be very careful not to damage flowering bushes. Slices are always treated with an antiseptic. It is best to carry out such work in the spring, starting from the second year of cultivation.

As for fertilizers, they can be very different:

  • When transplanting requires spraying with Appin or another similar solution so that the plant will take root more quickly.
  • Damaged roots better, can be treated with a solution of Kornevin.
  • Compost or diluted wood ash is commonly used as top dressing.

Choosing seedlings

To choose the right lilac for planting, you need to pay attention to whether this plant is grafted:

  • In the bushes with their own root system, they are long and well developed.
  • Grafted seedlings have short roots.

The difference between them is that the first rooted faster and better and practically do not require care. In addition, these plants are more durable and, therefore, will delight you with their flowering much longer. By sight, all seedlings of Persian lilac should have healthy elastic roots no signs of dryness or stiffness. They should not be damaged and tumors. The branches at the bush should be flexible with green leaves.


As already mentioned, the shrub blooms in late spring. It is resistant to frost and drought. But it does not tolerate shade and wet lowlands.

Cutting it is very difficult. But if you try, then this method is real.

To do this, choose healthy and well-developed shoots. At the top of the incision goes above the kidney horizontally. At the bottom it makes the floor a slight angle.

The harvested material is planted in boxes with a mixture of peat and sand, or a greenhouse. The temperature in the room should be about twenty degrees. This condition need to be strictly followed. On cuttings should not fall direct sunlight. Watering is carried out regularly, ensuring that the soil was wet, but not wet. In addition, the need to spray on the leaves.

Only two weeks later, you can fully open the greenhouse, as the plants are rooted, and the sun will not harm them. In open ground, cuttings of Persian lilac are planted next season. In winter, they are covered with acrylic or dry leaves.

The grafting process is time consuming and complex. Therefore, you can try to grow the so-called layers. To do this, young and strong shoots from the main bush are instilled in holes. When they grow back a little and reach about twenty centimeters in length, the joints are again sprinkled with earth once more, so that the roots curl faster. Plants will be separated as soon as a full-fledged bush is formed, and transplanted to a new place in the usual way.

These simple rules you need to know to grow lilacs. Agree that such work will not cause much trouble. As a result, you will be able to admire the magnificent flowering of Persian lilac every spring.

Variety Meyer Palibin

This beautiful plant was imported from Turkey. The height of the bush is only one and a half meters, or even less, but the aroma is simply amazing.

Such a lilac blooms for almost two months and in the fall it can please the hosts with repeated blooming.

Care and reproduction of this variety is no different from the usual way, and therefore it is worth trying to grow this miracle.

Plant description

Lilac (named after the plant in honor of the ancient Greek mollusk named Syringa) belongs to the olive family and is distinguished by an enviable diversity - about 2000 varieties today - which many breeders have contributed to. It is believed that Persian lilac (Syringa persica) added to the list of ornamental plants in 1640. Gardener breeders brought it out, crossing an Afghan lilac - Syringa afghanika c melkadreznoy - Syringa laciniata. It turned out low in comparison with other representatives of the species - growth from two to three meters (normal) and from one to two meters (dwarf Persian lilac), with very sprawling branches. Young branches are almost bare, pubescent rather weakly. Older ones are thin, gray or brown in color, no arc.

The inflorescences of Persian lilac unusually lush, are egg-shaped. They are so thick and dense in appearance, like terry. Fluffy broad "panicles" develop from lateral buds located at the very top of the branches, and grow up to ten centimeters in length and about seven in width. A characteristic feature of the "Persian" - late flowering, from late May almost to the end of June. And in the south of Russia she can please with flowers and a second time, in the early autumn.

Its lateral inflorescences are shorter than the branches. The pleasant aroma of blossoming white sultans, purple-pink or white with a slight reflection of lilac shades differs from the typical “lilac” color to which we are accustomed. Another nuance - Persian lilac purely decorative, artificially derived variety. In the wild, it does not grow.

Popular varieties of olive miracle

In the thousands list of varieties of lilac Persian takes not too much space. As it turned out, it is not so readily amenable to selection, as more tall fellows from a large group of common lilacs. Persian beauty is not often found in the gardens in our latitudes. Even in central Russia, it does not always withstand winter frosts and dies. Yes, and multiplies not too willingly. From the seeds to grow "Persian" is very problematic and troublesome, and cuttings take root is not easy.

So lovers of ornamental shrubs have to be content with what is, the three most attractive and popular types:

  • Alba - you can recognize it by snow-white tassels and a delicate unsharp scent with a sweetish hint,
  • Laciniata - inflorescences of small white-lilac "cups" earrings tend to hang down, hanging on thin branches,
  • Nibra - with lush tassels of lilac-pink, closer to red, color.

How to plant Persian lilac

In order for a culture not to require too much attention, you must meet a few prerequisites during planting.

  1. Pick a beautiful place for a beautiful woman - bright, dry, sunny and protected from the wind. In the shadow of capriciousness, it may completely refuse to bloom, and in a constantly wet land, young shrub roots are quickly accepted to die off.
  2. Consider that “Persian” needs fertile land. Sandy, heavy clay does not suit her. If you know that the soil in your area suffers from excessive acidity, reduce it by adding lime.
  3. Prepare a small hole so that the root ball will fall into it. Immediately fill it with fertilizer - wood ash.
  4. Place the seedlings so that the root collar remains at the level of the ground surface. Do not forget to grind the circle circle.
  5. In the large garden place “newbies” three meters apart. The Persian lilac, though not distinct in growth, is very sprawling and needs considerable living space. The allowable minimum distance between plants is one and a half meters.

In natural conditions, lilac is a inhabitant of mountains. It blooms in spring, when a lot of rain falls, and mountain rivers fill up after the snow melts. During the summer heat, it falls asleep, and by the fall it can bloom again. therefore in central Russia, it is better to plant it not earlier than mid-July and not later than the beginning of September, when the state of rest lasts.

Open field maintenance

Careful care olive miracle will need only in the first few years of life, while the young bush is gaining strength. Next will be enough regular pruning.

  1. Youngsters need to be generous - 25-30 liters per bush - water during the summer drought, especially in August. Adult lilac able to provide themselves with water on their own.
  2. Root shoots, and excess shoots to be removed.
  3. To form a beautiful crown, constant trimming is necessary.
  4. It will take plowing the ground in the basal circle - at least three times per season, and the destruction of weeds.
  5. For the first two or three years, young Persian lilacs are fed with a small dose of nitrogen, after which 60-80 grams of ammonium nitrate will suffice for each bush. Once every two or three years, it is not over to treat the plant with a supplement containing potassium and phosphorus.
  6. When the flowering season comes, you will have to protect the Persian from the invasion of the May beetles and collect the insects by hand. And also cut the inflorescences - up to 60 percent. The house will get prettier from fragrant bouquets, and the bush will have the opportunity to form new flower clusters.

Experienced gardeners strongly recommend planting young lilacs a couple of years after planting. The fact is that it quickly sucks nutrients out of the ground. So fast that even dressing does not help. And the lack of nutrition will affect the condition of the plant, it will not let it bloom, as before.

Plant propagation methods

In comparison with other types of lilac, Persian in reproduction is quite whimsical and will require knowledge and patience. There are several methods.

  1. Cuttings. It is considered the least time consuming and quite effective, it allows you to quickly, just for the season, get a good seedling with a strong rhizome. But there are also disadvantages: cuttings of Persian lilac are hard to root, so it is important to follow the rules:
  • the time of preparation of cuttings - immediately after flowering or even during it,
  • It is better to cut them in the morning, choosing in the middle of the crown of young bushes who did not have time to stiffen shoots with a pair of nodules and short internodes.
  1. Jigs. In the spring, they choose a young branch that has begun to wilt, they overtighten with copper wire at the beginning and once again in 70-80 centimeters. It does not have to suffer the bark. Then the branch is bent down and the shoots are added in a shallow groove, leaving the top above the ground. In order to succeed, a whole summer of jigging is watered, they pull out weeds, and in case of need they pour fresh earth. If everything is done correctly, by the onset of cold weather, jigging can be separated from the “parent” in the places of the waist and grow to the state of full-fledged seedlings.
  2. Seed breeding method of Persian lilac is most often used by specialists in nurseries. For amateur it is too long, complex and time consuming.

Disease and pest prevention

Like any living creature, Persian lilac is subject to various ailments, especially if the gardener is inexperienced and has made agrotechnical errors. Because you need to know how to prevent them, and what to do if the plant is still sick.

There is a risk:

  • fusarium, or vascular wilt. This is possible when the Persian lilac is planted too deep or grows in heavy ground,
  • necrosis, rotting roots, the appearance of brown spots on the leaves. All this provokes a deficit of potassium, so that potash supplements must be present,
  • rot on shoots. It happens because of a branch injury, excess nitrogen in the soil or acids, stagnant water. Conclusion: a firm opinion that breaking off the branches of lilac to her only benefit is nothing more than a myth. Abuse nitrogen-containing fertilizers should not be. Plant a bush to a dry area. And to improve the acidic soil will help lime
  • invasions of insects - lilac mite, acacia scale insect, weevils, cicadas and other harmful brethren. Salvation from them - special chemicals,
  • viral and mycoplasma diseases. It is a pity, but it is useless to fight them. You can try to stop the disease in the initial stage, cutting off the diseased shoots. However, most often the ending is the uprooting of the bush and the disinfection of the soil.

Use in landscape design

It was precisely for the creation of amazing landscapes that Persian lilac was bred almost half a millennium ago. Any garden in which the spring blooms and begins to smell red, white, delicate lilac perfection, miraculously reincarnates. This ornamental shrub is often placed at the very entrance to the garden plot as a kind of gate. Dwarf variety is good in the form of flowering fencing, especially when the bushes alternate with different shades of inflorescences. It looks very advantageous in compositions with low coniferous plants: fairly wide lilac leaves and thin needles of thuja or fir create a nice contrast. In a small area where only one bush is placed, Persian lilacs can look like a real queen framed by scilla, crocus and hyacinth in a flowerbed, picturesquely lined with stone. However, in this case it is necessary to take care that the crown remains flawless: the Persian beauty will attract looks and should always be “in shape”.

Purchase of seedlings

Before you buy a seedling of Persian lilac you like, check with the seller whether it is grafted or a plant-rooted plant. If you can not figure out, carefully inspect the sapling. Own-rooted plants reach a height of 70-80 cm and have several pairs of skeletal branches, as well as a well-developed root system, consisting of rather long (20-25 cm) roots. Grafted lilac has more modest size and short roots. It is best to choose own-rooted seedlings, because they are more durable and do not require special care.

Proper fit

Saplings with an open root system to a permanent place is better to plant in late August - early September, and grown in containers - throughout the growing season. Place choose open and well lit, but protected from the north side by a fence or a wall of the house.

The soil of the Persian lilac prefers fertile, well-drained, with a neutral reaction. Dig a landing pit so large that the plant's root system is freely accommodated, pour a half-bucket of nutrient substrate mixed with equal amounts of gravel and rotted manure into it.

Evenly distribute the roots, pre dipping them in a clay mash. У привитого саженца корневую шейку заглубите на 4-5 см, а у корнесобственного – на 12-15 см. После посадки почву уплотните, полейте 1-2 ведрами воды и замульчируйте перегноем. Через пару дней немного укоротите стебли, чтобы усилить кущение.

Уход без хлопот

Persian lilac does not need special care. She does not like excess moisture (it is necessary to water only during flowering and intensive growth, as well as during drought). From the second year of cultivation, it is recommended to make special fertilizers for flowering plants (according to the instructions) or ashes.

In Europe, Persian lilac appeared more than 4 centuries ago thanks to the Austrians, who brought it from Constantinople along with other overseas "miracles".

Do I need lilac care?

Lilac - shrub with an almost impeccable reputation. It copes well with frost and urban conditions. Not afraid of dust and gas pollution, not demanding on soils, adaptive to lighting. You can even use lilacs in the design of the garden in different ways: there is a place for this flowering shrub in the alley, in the hedges, and on the lawn, in the flower garden or rabatka. But to plants that can be “planted and forgotten”, lilac does not apply at all.

To admire her fragrant clouds, you need to devote time to pruning every year. Yes, and abundant long-flowering without watering, fertilizing, maintaining proper soil condition will be impossible to achieve. Caring for lilac is not complicated, but consists of minimally necessary procedures for the normal development of the shrub. There are some important rules here.

Rule 1. Watering not only after planting

Lilac is considered so hardy that it does not need regular watering. Systemic procedures are not needed for this shrub, but this does not mean that lilacs are not irrigated at all. The first procedure of abundant watering after planting care is not limited.

Lilac watering is carried out during the entire flowering time and in the spring during the active growth of shoots (of course, only when natural precipitation is not enough). In the summer, after flowering, watering is carried out only on the hottest days: the plant is not afraid of drought, but you still need to protect it from overheating.

Lilac watering is carried out during the entire active season. © tropper2000

Rule 2. Feeding depending on age

Lilacs need a different approach to fertilizing immediately after planting and after reaching the optimal size. These plants can not be fed to full rooting and in preparation for winter: lilacs are fed only during the period of active growth, in the first half of the season.

In the first year after planting and at a young age, lilacs do not need any additional feeding. The only exception is planting in depleted soil, which simply lacks nutrients for normal growth. In this case, for young lilacs make two dressings per year. After winter, when there are signs of the beginning of growth of young twigs on the bush, the first feeding is carried out. And the second is carried out in the middle of summer: at the end of June or the beginning of July. From the second year after planting in early spring, nitrogen or organic fertilizers can be applied for any lilacs.

Adults lilac feed differently. From the third or fourth year, 1 time per season (most often in early spring) 50-60 g of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium nitrate or urea) are applied to each bush. In the summer after flowering, lilacs are fed with organic fertilizers, embedding a mullein solution or ash into the soil. “Autumn” supplements (in August and early September) are applied only once every 2-3 years, using potash-phosphate fertilizers (30 g each of phosphate and potash fertilizers or 55-60 g of the mixture).

For any lilacs you can mix organic and mineral fertilizers. For young lilacs, manure is preferred, for adults - humus. It is better to reduce a single portion of mineral fertilizers when combined with organic matter from 50-60 g to 30-40 g.

Fertilize lilacs only in cloudy weather or in the evening, after watering or rain. Fertilizers can be either dissolved in water or embedded in the soil.

Rule 3. Three types of pruning lilac

If something lilac and "simple", then just not pruned. After all, this so beloved shrub needs regular cleaning and shaping. Trimming starts from the third or fourth year, when skeletal branches begin to form. And one single trim is not enough, for lilac spend as many as three types of these procedures:

1. Main pruning (stimulation of flowering) is necessary for all types of lilac without exception. So that next year the bushes bloom profusely, it is necessary to prune the flowering inflorescences in time, because the flower buds of this shrub are formed only on summer shoots. The main pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, and not in the fall.

2. Anti-aging pruning. It is necessary only for adults and old lilacs. Timely rejuvenation avoids the need for cardinal rejuvenation and skipping of flowering. For rejuvenating thickening, excess shoots on the bushes are removed annually, forming strong skeletal branches and a healthy bush with 5 - 10th successfully located shoots.

Such rejuvenation is carried out in early spring, before the awakening of the kidneys. But if, nevertheless, it became necessary to carry out a cardinal rejuvenation on the old lilacs, then all the shoots, without exception, are cut to fairly low stumps, completely removing all the extra thickening branches. Next year, the lilac will recover and if it releases inflorescences, then only small and single. But every year, with proper formation of the bush, lilac will bloom more and more abundantly.

3. Shaped pruning. Lilac - a shrub mainly landscape and picturesque, and the formation of the crown, giving it a certain shape on it is used very rarely. The only exception is the removal of the root shoots, weak, inward-growing, damaged, dry shoots, necessary for any lilac to form strong skeletal shoots.

And the formation as such is carried out only in three cases:

  • in regular gardens, lilacs are given a stricter shape, setting a growth vector from a young age and slightly cutting off shoots to restrict crown growth and give a silhouette (for example, for spherical and umbrella-shaped crown remove lower shoots and thicken upper ones, etc.),
  • for fences and tunnels in densely growing bushes they cut the top, and on the side shoots twice a year, in spring and autumn, they prune, achieving the desired outlines of the fence,
  • to form a lilac shtamb, one central skeletal shoot is left, they regularly “strip” it from side branches, and the crown is formed at the top into a “cloud”, limiting its growth.
The main pruning of lilac is carried out immediately after flowering. © JensGade

Rule 4. Soil loosening should be regular.

To lilac for many years pleased with abundant flowering and did not suffer from any weather conditions, it is necessary to maintain the soil loose, constantly renewing its air and water permeability. Without loosening the soil, lilac will suffer from compaction.

Soil for lilac is loosened 3 or 4 times per season, combining it with weeding. The first loosening is carried out in early spring. It is better to carry out aeration after heavy precipitation or watering. But it is extremely important not to overdo it: for lilac, the soil is loosened by only 4-7 cm and no deeper.

Rule 5. Mulching is very important.

Simplifying lilac care and achieving better water retention, protecting the root system from overheating, preserving the quality of the soil and its structure is possible only if you do not forget to constantly maintain the mulch layer in the lilac tree circle. The first mulching for this shrub is created during planting, or rather, after abundant watering. For lilac, the mulch layer should be from 5 to 7 cm. In the future, the mulch layer is renewed and maintained constantly, renewing at least 2 times a year - in spring and autumn.

As mulching materials for lilac, it is preferable to use:

For young seedlings in the first winter, it is desirable to create a new protective mulch-covering layer of leaves or peat up to 10 cm high.

Lilac in the garden. © Martha Stewart

Rule 6. Persistent - does not mean invulnerable

Despite its reputation as an amazingly resilient shrub, lilac suffers from diseases and pests. Moreover, problems on healthy and strong bushes can appear even in the vicinity of infected plants, and during bad seasons, the nursing code was insufficient to compensate for heat and drought. And to cure the lilac will be very difficult if you do not notice the defeat in time. Inspect the bushes regularly, especially in the second half of the season and notice the slightest signs of these unpleasant problems.

Of the diseases on the lilacs most common are late blight and powdery mildew. The sooner the problem is identified, the easier it will be to cope with it. With a strong defeat of lilac it will be difficult to cure it even with cardinal pruning and regular treatments. It is possible to fight diseases on this shrub both with a simple Bordeaux mixture and various narrowly targeted fungicides.

Of the harmful insects in lilac, leaf-eating pests and mites are more common. Moreover, the spread of these pests leads to a rapid loss of decorativeness and practically - to “baldness”. To fight insects you need systemic insecticides: narrowly targeted agents are effective, but while you are struggling with one problem, other pests can settle on weakened lilacs.

Persian lilac blooms from May to June, it is frost-resistant, tolerant of droughts, does not like low places.

Persian lilac can be grafted by choosing flexible well developed shoots. From above, a direct incision is made above the kidney, and from the bottom - slanting, after planting the cuttings in a mixture of peat and sand, they should be in the greenhouse, where the temperature is 20 - 23 degrees, while covering them from the sun's rays, regular irrigation and spraying. A few weeks later, you can open the greenhouse and no longer be afraid of the sun. The cuttings need to be transplanted to the ground next summer, and for the winter to cover the young shoots with dry leaves, straw.

Since grafting is a rather tedious task, it is easier to use saplings, although Persian lilacs are well reproduced by layering. To this end, annual shoots from a large bush are placed in furrows, instilled, and when shoots grow more than 20 cm. Spud them several times to form strong roots, and then separate.

Soils and lilacs

Lilac is very easy to plant, does not require any additional effort.

White lilac

  • The soil fits neutral. If the soil is acidic, it must be treated with lime or dolomite flour. This should be done every 3 years.
  • Groundwater should be at a depth of at least 1.5 m, as for most plants and shrubs.
  • It is advisable to choose for a lilac sunny place, flat or with a small slope. However, the penumbra plant also tolerates well, but blooms much more abundantly still in the sun. If the place is blown by cold winds, then it makes sense to choose a place with less cold air.
  • Lilac is good because in its winter no need to coveras it is very hardy. On the unpretentiousness of lilac says the fact that it can grow on the slopes of the mountains, where the heavy soil and strong winds blow.
  • Swampy and wet soils for lilac are contraindicated, and clay soil is not recommended for it.

When to plant a lilac

Planting lilacs in mid-latitudes is best in late August - early September. Before the cold weather, there is still time for the plant to take root, and the lilac is already at this time in a state of calm from flowering and vegetation.


An indicator of the timeliness of planting can be foliage. If the leaves crumble - you are late in landing. If you nevertheless planted the lilac late and a cold snap is expected soon, you need to mulch the tree trunk. This can be done with sawdust, peat, leaves. This will save you from rapid soil freezing. With the onset of spring mulch is removed, so as not to delay the thawing of the earth.

If you have already dug lilacs, but it is cold, then dig up the lilac in the inclined state of the type of fruit seedlings and in this state, leave until spring. In this case, prepare the pit for spring planting immediately from the autumn, because the earlier in the spring you plant lilac, the faster it will take root. A prerequisite is that you need to land before the buds swellotherwise there is a risk of death of the plant.

Landing in the pits

Usually lilac seedlings are planted in the ground to a depth at which the root collar will be at ground level. Exceptions are varieties grafted on common lilac. In this case, the root collar should be 2-3 cm higher than the ground level in order to reduce or prevent the growth of lilac that appears from the stem.

In good fertile land, pits are made 50x50 cm. When planting, soil mixture is prepared by adding organic fertilizers and wood ash. For better survival, you can plant lilac in the evening when it is cooler.

Buy lilac saplings with a closed root system, in this case there will be no problems with planting and care. Saplings with an open root system are not a sentence yet, but they take root worse and will require more care.

Lilac care

Lilac - very unpretentious plant. General care guidelines are the same as for most flowering shrubs.

Lilac - very unpretentious plant

After planting, pour plenty of water and grind the soil, then water as the soil dries. Lilac grows well and blooms with sufficient moisture.

In May and June, water more abundantly, because the plant begins to bloom and requires more moisture. But you can not pour.

From mid-July, the lilac is no longer watered, so as not to provoke the awakening of the kidneys.

Fertilizers and feeding for lilac

If you plant a sufficient amount of fertilizer when planting in a planting pit, then the plant does not need to fertilize the soil for about 3 years.

Your further fertilizing will consist of organic application (manure, bird droppings, compost liquid) and mineral fertilizers (phosphorus and potassium in August every 2-3 years, ammonium nitrate - when snow falls).

When the plant is gaining strength and is actively growing, you can sprinkle the foliage with mineral fertilizers.

Lilac pruning

  • Faded brush should be cut immediately after flowering, this is due to the fact that flower buds are formed on summer shoots. If you prune the flowering inflorescences in the fall, then next spring the lilac will not bloom.
  • If the lilac requires sanitary pruning, it does not matter what time of year it is carried out, but better in spring.
  • To update old lilacs for new ones, do it gradually, cutting out 1-2 old branches a year in spring.
  • Many gardeners make lilac cultural pruning. To do this, leave the main 6 or more branches at some distance from each other, to give the bush a sprawling look, and all the rest are cut, the same ones that are directed inside the bush are cut out completely. It gives shape and beautiful bloom. It is advisable to carry out such pruning every year in spring, before the kidneys swell.

Lilac reproduction

Varietal garden lilac propagated by cuttings, layering, grafting.

During reproduction by layering By the fall, you will already have a good one-year-old sapling ready for transplanting. To do this, make horizons near the lilac horizontally; branches should be bent down to the ground and secured. And from the buds of the shoot, cuttings will develop. At the same time, the mother plant will retain all its ornamental properties. Personally, this method seems to me less laborious than green cutting. But not all types of lilacs multiply that way.

If you still want to propagate by cutting, then take the half-matured, well-developed shoots in the summer (June - early July), the middle part of the shoots is taken on the cuttings.

Reproduction of lilac cuttings. Photos from

You can grow stock from seeds and vaccinate them.
Seed collection occurs in October. You can sow in the fall, after you pour them out of the boxes and dry. To do this, prepare a garden bed for seeds in advance, sow with the first snow in a dead garden bed, dug 1.5 cm. In spring, you can swoop down and grow ready-made seedlings.

You can plant seeds in the spring, but this will require stratification (long-term keeping of seeds at a low temperature). Somewhere in the middle of March, the seeds are sown in boxes with steamed earth. In different types of lilac seed germination is different, in ordinary lilac seeds will grow for 12-15 days, and, for example, in Amur in 2-3 months. After the formation of 4 leaves on a seedling, the seedlings are dived at a distance of 4 cm from each other.

In May, seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the garden. For seedlings, autumn planting is less preferable, due to their freezing in winter.

For vaccination, you can take a stock of common lilac, privet or Hungarian lilac. Do rootstock make an oblique cut, also make a cut on the selected handle (oblique cut at an angle of 45 °). Graft tightly attach to the stock cut and tie with ropes. This method is called copulation, it is the simplest among the methods of vaccination. Lilac is also well planted on privet.

Common lilac

So far in Russian gardens common lilac (Syringa vulgaris), which has about 500 different varieties, is most common. The flowers are very fragrant, the color range is all shades of purple, white. It produces a large number of shoots, after planting blooms for 4 years.

Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)

  • Сирень обыкновенная сорта Примроуз
Единственный сорт сирени с желтыми цветками. Желтый оттенок у них только в начале цветения, к концу он становится ближе к белому.

Сирень обыкновенная сорта Примроуз

Сирень махровая

Многие виды сирени имеют сорта с махровыми цветками. Махровые цветы «двойные»: из первой трубочки с четырьмя лепестками растет еще одна такая же. Если во второй трубочке лепестков меньше, сирень называют полумахровой.

  • Сирень махровая сорта Тарас Бульба
Late variety, blooms in the third decade of May. The flowers are large, delicate, at first dark purple, by the end of flowering brighten and change shade.

Lilac terry Taras Bulba. Photo from

  • Lilac terry varieties Monique Lemoine
The flowers are snow white, very large, about 3 cm in diameter, densely double, with a faint fragrance. Buds unusual creamy-greenish hue.

Lilac terry varieties Monique Lemoine. Photo from

Amur lilac

Amur lilac bushes reach 10 m in height. The leaves do not differ from the usual lilac, the flowers are small, thick, tinged from white to cream, very strong aroma. It is resistant to temperature changes in a very wide range, but does not like poor soils. It blooms late, at the end of July, about 2 weeks.

Amur lilac. Photo: Alexey Yakovlev,

Lilac Hybrid

There are many types of hybrid lilac, formed by artificial or natural hybridization of different natural types of lilacs (“hybrid races”). These include hyacinthic, Persian, variegated and other types of lilacs. Many hybrids surpass their parents in quality: they grow faster, do not give root shoots, they bloom earlier.

  • Persian lilac
Shrub not higher than 3 m, dense inflorescences, thick, flowers smaller than ordinary lilac, very fragrant. Quite sensitive to low temperatures. It blooms a little later than ordinary lilac, long and abundantly.

Persian lilac. Photo from