Volumetric multi-colored bushes of terry, ampelous, bicolor and monotonous petunias won the hearts of experienced gardeners and beginners. From mid-spring to the first frost, flowers, amazing in their diversity and decoration, adorn not only the summer cottages, but also the balconies of multi-storey buildings, cottage verandas, city flowerbeds, cafes and restaurants. Flowers are unpretentious, do not require professional maintenance and special conditions, but they are grateful for the care of florist.
Necessary conditions for tweaking petunias
Proper cultivation and formation is an important condition for obtaining a beautiful and healthy bush. In addition to timely sowing and diving, it is necessary to make the correct pinching of the petunia. This means that at a certain stage of growth it needs to remove the upper shoots. This procedure will ensure the branching of the stems and the formation of a multitude of buds on the bushy crowns.
To carry out this manipulation you will need the following:
- comfortable scissors or pruner,
- mature seedlings with 4 - 5 large leaves on top,
- tank for collecting remote cuttings.
How should pinch petunia?
Before pinching a petunia, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for conducting this procedure:
- Observing the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to choose the period when it is a little stronger and began to grow up quickly. It can be up to 5 - 6 leaves, but not more. If you miss this moment, the seedlings will stretch. Actually pinching petunias does not take much time. It is necessary to cut the stem over the 5-6 leaf with fingers or pruners.
Thus, a new growth point is formed, from which several shoots will start growing simultaneously. During this period, seedlings can slow down the development, but at the same time get a little stronger. When the side shoots go, the bush will get a more rounded look.
- If you plan to plant seedlings in open ground, then pinching is better to hold after rooting. The sprout will take several days to adapt. In this period, you need to try to create favorable conditions for the plants to take root:
- To plant seedlings need to loosely, observing the conditions of agricultural engineering,
- monitor the frequency of watering and spraying,
- apply specialized fertilizer at the root.
If the development occurs in the greenhouse, you can pinch the petunia after a dive.
- If the cut shoots are not very small in size, they can be used as cuttings. To root rooted, it is placed in a container of water. You must first remove the extra leaves, leaving some at the top. When the roots appear - transplanted into the soil. So you can get additional young seedlings.
- during pinching try to injure the germ least, use clean tools,
- a month after the event and the emergence of strong side branches, pinching the tops of the petunias can be repeated,
- for bookmarking large buds on new stepsons, use suitable fertilizers, they will make the flowers brighter and larger.
In order for a shaped ornamental bush to please its beautiful view as long as possible, he will need constant care. From the moment of sowing, no replanting, pinching, spraying sprouts will be required. Do not forget to water and feed well, remove dried flowers and shoots. In the place of the cropped old flowers, new branches with buds will appear. Well-groomed colorful petunias, undoubtedly, in gratitude will please you with abundant and long flowering.
How to pinch a petunia? To obtain beautiful flowers, you must wait three months after sprouting. The development of the plant is directed upwards - towards the sun. At that moment and pinching is applied - shortening the top of the main stem. After cutting the seedlings additional points of growth appear. The bush becomes more magnificent, thicker, as it grows already to the sides. The more shoots, twigs, the more flowers, respectively. The quality of flowering is also improving.
It must be borne in mind that immediately after pruning, the power of the plant is spent on the formation of new shoots, so the appearance of buds is slightly delayed. Usually the delay does not exceed several days. However, new buds are larger.
Circumcision must be done carefully. Although in some cases it is not required at all. This is about hybrid or elite varieties petunias However, it should be borne in mind that even if they violate optimal conditions (temperature, insufficient lighting), they will stretch upwards. In this case, home seedlings also have to pinch for better development.
One month after the procedure, the lateral stems are also shortened. This is done with the same purpose - to achieve further ramification. Bushes seedlings are becoming even thicker. After petunia can be periodically trimmed, however - optional. This is rather a matter of decorative taste.
It should be noted that in the literature often pinching is also called pinching. Although some distinguish these two concepts. They believe that pinning is the procedure described above, and it is performed only at the stage of seedling development. Pinching is cutting a grown-up plant. It is used during reproduction to obtain cuttings.
Also important are questions about how to pinch petunia correctly and when to pinch petunia? It is advisable to hold the first pinching of the petunia immediately after transplanting seedlings into the ground. but sometimes due to the weather have to wait a long time for this. The time of the procedure for both planted bushes, and for those who are at home can be determined by appearance. Enough education five sheets. It makes no sense to wait any longer, as the petunia will grow, and it will no longer be possible to make compact bushes.
Home-grown seedlings are grown to start flowering earlier. In this form, the shoots are in the room for about 2-3 months. Then they are planted in the ground. At the seedling stage, pinching is obligatory, after planting in the ground - only desirable. Although it should be borne in mind that if there is enough space, light and other suitable conditions, it may not be needed at all.
To carry out the procedure can be something sharp. Commonly used:
- well-honed garden knife,
- ordinary scissors for manicure.
Tools must be clean and sharp. If growing seedlings is carried out in a greenhouse, then with the procedure you need to wait until the moment when the seedlings finally take root. Conducting is not difficult:
- It is necessary to pinch the main stem immediately above the 5-6 leaf. In extreme cases, this can be done even with your hands.
- For better recovery of the plant after stress and development, special preparations are sometimes used: Epin, Zircon, etc.
- When sprouts appear on the side, you need to repeat the procedure. This usually happens a month after the first pinching. Now it is necessary to cut not only the main stem, but also the lateral processes that have appeared. The latter, in turn, will also eventually sprout.
- After completing the second pinning, additional feeding is done. Drugs can be made both at the root and foliar way. Growth stimulants, complete mineral fertilizers are selected.
- For ampel varieties, there are features: it is better to repeat the pinching every 3–4 weeks.
Using the received cuttings
If the cut part is long enough, it can be used for landing. In this case, it must meet the following requirements:
Especially successful will be the material for planting, obtained after re-pinning. In this case, the pruned cuttings are stronger, the stalks are thicker. Sprouts are placed in a vessel with water. Wherein important not to forget remove the lowest leaves - those that will be in contact with water. So you can avoid rotting cuttings. Here they quickly form roots. To speed up the process, you can add a little special growth stimulator to the water.
After the appearance of the root system, seedlings are planted in a container with the ground. The soil must be fertile, in structure - light (loose).
This method of reproduction has its advantages. In addition to convenience, in some cases, better transferred to the quality of the parent plant. For example, if a stalk of a hybrid variety was taken, the resulting plant would be completely identical in appearance. If you try to propagate the same hybrid with the help of the collected seeds, the plant grown as a result will be different. In addition, sometimes finding the seeds of the variety you like is simply not possible. In this case, cuttings may also be suitable.
Petunia has received such a distribution, including through this type of reproduction. Although the plant is nominally one-year in our latitudes, the situation can be changed by covering it for the winter in a warm room. Spring cuttings are used for vegetative propagation. Then everything can be repeated. It turns out that this is a perennial.
Achieve high decorative results
In order for a petunia to show all its decorative qualities, a number of conditions are required. Plant can possess exceptional performanceBut no one will see the work of breeders. Requires regular and proper care. If you want the petunia to become similar to those that can be found on the pages of magazines or in the best flower gardens, just pinching will not be enough. The main rules of care include:
- need feeding, and regular and correct,
- should responsibly approach the selection of soil for seedlings: you need a light and nutritious,
- to avoid chlorosis, iron should be added to the feed,
- Do not underestimate the benefits of irrigation: it takes about 6 liters per standard box,
- after the buds have bloomed, they need to be torn off for better flowering of the remaining and newly formed,
- To combat the disease, powdery mildew needs treatment with sulfur containing products, better in rainy weather,
- Aphids can be removed with strong water pressure or appropriate preparations.
Petunia familiar to many in Montevideo, where she came from, is a perennial and blooms almost the entire year. There she is known for her small uniform colors. but thanks to the work of breeders Petunia has long ceased to be a modest pretty flower. At the service of gardeners - a huge number of varieties, including - hybrid. They have a variety of characteristics:
- larger colors
- different colors of petals
- strong, pleasant aroma.
With us, it persists only until the cold weather. Although by the autumn he is losing a lot of what can be seen in landscape design manuals. Here it is often depicted as a huge ball, in which, it seems, there is nothing but flowers. At first glance, to achieve this - only professional. However, petunia - a plant unpretentious and pliable. Therefore, to make such a ball or something else, no less beautiful, maybe even an inexperienced gardener. The main thing is to follow simple rules and time to pinch.
Is it necessary to pinch the petunia
Pinching petunias is optional. The plant will already grow and bloom. Another thing is quality. If you want to have a luxuriously blooming and pleasing bush, and not just a long stem with leaves that falls under the weight of the buds, then pinching should be done. If you do not remove the side shoots, the plant will inevitably go up, and with such growth it will not be until the formation of flowers. Therefore, the path to the gorgeous blooming petunia lies through pinching. Each cut stem provokes the emergence of new and new buds. And the shoots with flowers will become even stronger and thicker.
When to do pinching
The first rule is timeliness. The first time you need to pinch petunia at the seedling stage, before you plan to plant it in the garden. As soon as there are 4-5 leaves on your flower, feel free to pinch off the top of it. Thus, you will help your plant build up a powerful root system, and it will transfer the planting to open ground without any problems.
The second time they pinch the petunia after you have planted a flower in the open ground. Give it about a week (maximum ten days) in order to get used to it and get into stature after transplantation, and you can do a second pinching. By this time, several stems are already formed on the petunias, and each of them should be attached.
The second rule is to choose the right place for pinching. Once your little seedling has been pulled, you need to count five leaves from the bottom, and cut off the top shoot. This procedure will help ensure that the plant does not grow upwards, but to the sides, and on the side shoots more and more new flowers are formed.
Do not tighten with pinching petunias, otherwise the bush will not be able to properly form and become beautiful.
How to pin petunia
Bush, which you are going to pinch, must be plump and healthy, with a strong trunk. Cut off the tip of the petunia need a very sharp small scissors like a manicure, or a small thin knife. Otherwise, the flower may die.
At the same time on the stem must be at least three leaves.
When you pinch off the tops of the plants, do not throw them away. They are useful for reproduction. You should simply remove the leaves from them, and put in the water. After a few days, the cuttings will sprout, and they can be rooted next to the mother plant, giving your flowerbed even more pomp.
Root the tops of petunias can be immediately in the ground, but they will take longer to settle down. And cuttings with roots will almost immediately grow.
Does pinching affect blooming
Pinching is always a shock to the plant. And this shock flower must survive. Therefore, those bushes that you pin, bloom later for about two weeks. But they will have much larger flowers, the buds will develop much more, and the petunia will bloom not only more abundantly, but also longer. If you want to have lush elegant blooming petunias - be sure to pinch your bushes.
The first step is to cut off the middle, main shoot. And after that, pick off side shoots, depending on the speed of their growth.
Be sure to note that you should remove the faded petunia flowers. And you need not only to tear off the flower itself, but also to pinch off the leg on which it is attached to the stem. Then you will have a lot of flowers on a bush.
How often should pinching be done
It is necessary to pinch bushes only when they are actively growing. Therefore, if your petunia does not feel very well, has not adapted, and looks weak, do not rush to touch it. Let the plant come to its senses, get stronger and start producing shoots. Then you can pin it down.
Pinching even healthy plants does not need to be done more often than once a month. It is important not to overdo it, otherwise the flowers will hurt.
If your bush after a heavy flowering began to age, do not worry. Cut the petunia as short as possible, it will benefit her. After that, loosen the ground, apply fertilizer, and in ten days you will be able to admire the gorgeous flowering of your beauty.
Pinching features for petunias in pots
As you know, petunias can be grown both in open ground and in pots. And if pinching in the open field is still rather a recommendation in order for your petunia to be gorgeous in color, then for plants grown in pots, pinching is necessary. Potted petunia stems need to be shortened on a mandatory basis, otherwise the shoots will not appear flowers at all.
For petunias in pots for the first time, you need to pinch the seedling while planting. For the pot you need to immediately achieve a beautiful view of the bush. After the seedling is placed in a pot, it must also be attached. After the petunia in the pot overwintered (this flower does not hibernate in the open field), it should also be pinned. Then, cutting the stems should be done as needed, depending on their growth.
How to pinch the petunia correctly
When to pinch a petunia after germination? Begin forming a seedling as early as possible. A stalk stretching to the light is pinched when 4-6 true leaves have grown on it — this is about 40-50 days after germination. This procedure is called “pinning”.
Pinging (translated from German “delete the end”) is the removal of the top of the stem from a young plant.
The operation is carried out in order to awaken to the growth of dormant lateral buds on the stem. As a result of the nipping of the main stem, several new stems form from the lateral sinuses of the stem, starting to grow upwards and sideways. If necessary, the operation is carried out several times, achieving the desired tillering density.
Pinching procedure can be carried out no more than once a month. Удалять стебелёк удобно острым канцелярским ножом или ножницами.
Взрослую петунию можно обрезать секатором, при прищипке руками есть риск оставить после операции измочаленный стебель, что может привести к загниванию. After the operation, petunia is actively growing green mass. It is desirable to combine the nipping with the subsequent fertilizing of the plant with fertilizers.
Photo: petunia before pinching and after with regrown lateral shoots.
What is this plant?
Petunia is an ornamental plant of the nightshade family. It is distinguished by a variety of flower colorings, unpretentious care, decorative. Petunia is from South America. This is an annual plant with large and bright flowers in the form of a bell. It is grown as a decoration of balconies, verandas, windows.
Petunia leaves are whole on short petioles. Depending on the variety, they come in various shapes and sizes. The location of the leaves alternately. Stems - branched, green.
See further petunia photos:
When do you need to do this?
The most suitable time for the first nip is after transplanting seedlings for permanent residence. This may be open ground, pots or container.
Here it is important to observe several conditions:
- After transplantation, you need to wait about two weeks for the plant to take root and get a little stronger. The length of the shoots should be about 8 cm. If the shoots are too small, it is better to give them the opportunity to grow.
- You need to make sure that the plant "went to the stem", that is, a period of rapid growth began. If this does not happen, then you need to wait some more time.
- Be sure to feed the petunia radical fertilizers and spray as needed.
- Re-pinching can be done in about a month. Repeated nipping contributes to the gorgeous and abundant flowering.
If the plant does not pinch it will go to growth. That is, there will be abundant growth of green mass. And growth will go in one branch. Shoots will be long and ugly, resembling a whip. At the same time flowering will be scarce. Therefore, pinching can be called a mandatory procedure.
Recommendations for tinting
Many are wondering how to properly pinch, and especially on which sheet. To successfully complete the procedure, you need to follow a few rules:
- The sheet must be at least 5 and 6 leaves.
- Pruning is done after the fifth sixth leaf on the stem. Anything above 5-6 sheets should be cut off. From the cut-off place a growing point is formed. It is from here that new shoots will grow.
- Before pinching, you need to create good conditions for the plant: properly water and feed.
- The pinching procedure should be carried out very carefully so as not to injure the plant.
- It is better to treat the instruments in order not to infect the infection.
- Re-pinch the petunia need a month to lush flowering.
- In order for the buds and flowers to be large, you need to use appropriate fertilizers.
- So that it blooms chic, petunia pinch several times during the season. Too long or dry shoots should be cut. The flower quickly restores the decoration, and it will only benefit him.
After pinching, growth may slow down slightly. A bloom move a little over time.
Cultivation and care after pinching:
- Regular and correct feeding. This is one of the most important conditions. It provides both abundant flowering and growth of green mass. This requires fertilizers containing nitrogen. You can use compounds containing the same amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, or with a predominance of nitrogen. It is nitrogen that helps build green mass.
- To ensure abundant flowering need to fertilize the flower compositions containing potassium and phosphorus. The best option is Bona Forte and Garden of Miracles. The main thing to remember about the correct ratio of trace elements (NPK). Most often for dressing use liquid formulations. Less often - dry. But there is another type of fertilizer - long-playing. Usually they are produced in granules.
Such fertilizers are applied to the soil before planting. And then when watering, they gradually dissolve and give the soil useful substances. It is enough to add them once to the ground, and they will feed the plant all season. But there is one serious drawback - the florist cannot control the saturation of plants with fertilizers. Therefore, the use of long-playing compositions can lead to disastrous consequences.
- Nip not rooted or weak bush. If the bush of petunias is not well rooted, did not go to growth, it looks weak with pinching it is better to wait. If this happens, you should take care of the health of the plant. Perhaps the flower is not enough, light, or incorrectly made dressing. Or maybe not suitable soil. In any case, you need to find out the cause of the unhealthy type of plant.
- Non-sterile instrument. If plucking is done with untreated scissors, there is a chance of infection, which can lead to illness.
- Dumb tool. If the scissors are not sharp enough, then there is a likelihood of squeezing of the vessels on the stem, which can lead to the death of the plant.
- If a seedlings outgrown and even let the first flower do not be upset. It should pinch the bush, leaving 4-6 leaves. The released flower should also be pruned. Sorry for the flower is not worth it, in its place there will be several new and larger ones.
- Too early pinching. If the seedlings are less than 5 cm in size and there are less than 4-6 leaflets on it, nipping can be harmful.
For petunia is very undesirable and dangerous stagnation of water in the soil. The soil must be loose and well pass air.
If all aspects of growing and caring for petunia are not observed, then you can be sure it will be beautiful and lush the whole season. In addition, you will provide the plant a wonderful state of health. And remember - regularity is very important in caring. The more careful the care, the better the result.
What is pinching
The pinching procedure is also called pinching and is a breaking off / pinching off / cutting off the top of the shoots. Translated from the German word "pinion" means "delete the end", and this translation perfectly reflects the essence of the procedure.
The purpose of the operation is the awakening of the lateral buds on the shoots, which remain in a dormant state prior to pinching.
After the procedure and healing of the place of cutting, the remaining stem thickens, sometimes it grows wood, it becomes stronger, more stocky. The shade of foliage changes for the better - it becomes brighter, more saturated. The axillary buds swell and become more voluminous - as a result of this, the blooming flowers of them then delight with their large size and pomp.
Pinching in general is required to get stronger shoots, a lush shrub, and more beautiful, vibrant flowers and foliage. This procedure is aimed at increasing the external attractiveness and decorativeness of petunia.
Find out why you need to pinch the petunia.
Cessation of apical shoot growth
Due to the fact that pinching eliminates the tip of upward-growing shoots, the lateral branches begin to grow more actively. As a result, the petunia is not drawn out, but becomes a round small bush, which looks more attractive.
In addition, the more side branches there are, the more flowers will appear, not to mention the increase in bushiness.
When pinching what conditions are needed
Pinch the petunia when the seedlings begin to grow actively. And this is a clear sign that it is better not to delay the procedure - otherwise the seedlings will stretch out and the bush will turn out to be ugly. By the time of the first pinching, 40-50 days should pass from the moment the seeds are planted.
Pinch only healthy plants: weak and defective shoots, it is desirable to immediately remove, so as not to waste time and effort. In what condition the plants should be: they should be grown up, strong, have several leaves (no more than 5-6) at the time of the procedure.
You will need garden shears or a small pruner, as well as a container into which you will put the cut off apical parts of the shoots. Next, you will learn how to step by step pinching petunias.
In short, pinching a petunia is removing the top of the shoot above the fifth to sixth top sheet. The procedure is carried out by shears, and some flower growers use just their own fingers, breaking off an escape in the right place.
Due to the fact that the main shoot is broken, a new active growth point is formed in this place, from which the side shoots will branch in different directions. Please note that immediately after the procedure, the seedlings of petunia slows down its development, but quickly recovers and begins to grow even more actively.
If the seedlings are intended for planting in open ground, the procedure is carried out even after the rooting of the seedling at a new place. However, after transplantation several days should pass in order for the plant to adapt.
When grown in greenhouse conditions, pinching is usually carried out after the pick has been made, since there is no point before.
- find the bottom of the shoot
- count from the bottom of 5-6 leaves, you can and 4,
- the part of the shoot located above the counted leaf is pinched with shears (fingers, scissors),
- place the cut powder with wood ash.
A month after the first procedure, a second pinching is usually carried out.
Attention: for one procedure, you can remove no more than one-fifth of a plant escape. Some flower growers are late and then cut off the third part of the shoot, or even half at once: such a rough intervention does not benefit the plant, it can even destroy it.
How to pinch for abundant flowering
To petunias pleased lush and prolonged flowering, you should ideally pinch them twice: at the stage of emergence of 5-6 leaves and the second time - after transplanting into open ground.
Especially responsible flower growers also carry out the third procedure, when the petunia is already actively growing, after transplantation. And such a triple pinching allows you to achieve the most successful and impressive results in the form of a lush, bright petunia bush.
How to pinch a different type of petunia
Gardeners grow several popular types of petunias:
Consider the features of pinching all these varieties.
This plant is necessary to pinch two to three times during the growing season. The procedure will allow the plant to actively bush and become more magnificent. When cutting a cascade petunia, you need to imagine how it will then look, since it is especially difficult to shape this type of flower. It is important to achieve a uniform shape, symmetrical on both sides.
This plant is already initially, at the genetic level, designed for the formation of a lush, well-flowering shrub. Therefore, many varieties (especially new ones) of ampelous petunia do not need pinching at all. However, the first pinching of the seedlings is still desirable - it will guarantee that the bush will turn out well branched.
The plant is clamped in the traditional way to achieve the correct and magnificent form of the bush.
Since all terry varieties are hybrid and breeding, they rarely need pinching. Initially, they form lush bushes with abundant leaves and flowers, so you can neglect the procedure. An exception is made if the seedlings are strongly drawn in one direction.
There are cuttings left - what to do with them
After the pinching procedure, usually strong, high-quality and healthy tops of the shoots remain - a full-fledged planting material. Thus, with the help of the remaining tops, you can make your population of petunias even richer.
To germinate such a stalk, you need to remove the lower leaves from it. Otherwise, they will rot in the water as the roots grow. After removing the foliage, the cutting is placed in a container with water. Then you need to wait for some time until the roots appear. And after their appearance, the stalk is planted in the usual way in the ground (see photo).
Do not forget to pinch the stalk when it is actively growing and begins to stretch.
What varieties of petunias pinch
Not all varieties of petunias need a mandatory pinching procedure, but only:
- old species long bred
- amateur varieties,
- flowers from your own seeds.
All these types of petunias are not too decorative without pinching, so they need to be pinned exactly. If you allow such varieties to grow as it should, you get elongated, non-compact bushes with rare flowers and stunted foliage. A rich flowering will not wait.
However, there is good news - and these are new, hybrid breeding varieties. Scientific developments are aimed at the breeding of such varieties of petunia, which would need minimal care and at the same time magnificently bloomed.
Therefore, most of the varieties bred in recent years, or nip does not require, or minimal. However, it is necessary to pay attention to the conditions under which cultivation takes place - in low light and in crowded plants, plants will still be pulled upwards.
If such a misfortune happened to a hybrid petunia, elongation can be eliminated with Atlet-type chemicals. However, for most flower growers, a formative mechanical procedure in the form of pinching is better than using “chemistry” once again.
So, we learned how to pinch petunia correctly so that it blooms long and lush. The procedure is absolutely necessary - if you are going to grow petunia, keep this fact in mind. Without pinching the bush will turn out to be plain, shapeless, and there will be few flowers.
See the pinching procedure in the video.
Do all varieties of petunia need to pinch?
Old long-timed amateur varieties or plants grown from seeds collected from their flowers must be pinned. As a rule, such a petunia in its natural form is far from compactness and pomp.
To modern hybrid petunias, breeders make strict demands not only on the beauty and splendor of flowering, but also to simplify the care of plants.
Petunia modern varieties or hybrids does not require nipping or requires minimal intervention in the formation of the crown.
However, even on modern varieties without nipping operation can not do. Often, when the seedlings of petunias grow at home with a lack of light and in crampedness, when the temperature is too high for it - the plants are drawn out.
In this case, you can shed the seedlings with the Atlet or other similar means (which is used in industrial greenhouses) or pick up. Many gardeners are not proponents of using excessive “chemistry” even on flowers and prefer to pinch petunia.
Ampel petunia is genetically designed for the formation of a lush, branched bush. It is not necessary to form an adult plant; an exception is the removal of withered buds and seed pods. This measure will allow the plant to direct all its strength to the formation of new buds and gorgeous flowering.
Early pinning at the seedling stage is desirable. Pinching the main shoot will help to more actively grow side stepchildren.
Important! In a cool and humid summer, special attention should be paid to the petunia bush. Many growers say that in wet weather, excessive fluffiness can lead to the development of fungal diseases on petunias. Therefore, it is advised to thin out petunia, achieving good ventilation of the bush. This is especially true for ampel and cascade varieties.
Cascade Petunia, except for the early pinning, you need to pinch another 1-2 times per season. This is necessary to make it better bred.
The second and third nipping shoots is carried out with a difference of a month.
Step by step operation looks like this.
- Prepare a clean and sharp tool: pruner or garden shears, a jar for cut cuttings, disinfecting powder (for example, activated or charcoal).
- The plant carefully inspect and identify shoots for removal. Trimming is a creative process that requires a good imagination. It is necessary to mentally imagine what a cut plant will look like, from which side the shoots are superfluous, and with which nothing should be removed, which escape must be pinched in order to stimulate the growth of stepchildren.
- Scissors or pruning shears unnecessary shoots. The cut must be done cleanly, leaving no burrs. Cut off shoots are not thrown out, they will be useful as cuttings for rooting and obtaining additional planting material of petunia.
- Sections powder with coal for the prevention of disease and rapid healing of the wound.
Spray and Terry Petunia
Кустовые и махровые сорта петуний прищипывают, исходя из сортовых особенностей конкретного растения. Если видно, что петуния образует мало боковых побегов, кустик стоит «подстегнуть» прищипкой центрального стебля.
Убирать отцветшие бутоны, повреждённые усохшие листочки нужно на любых сортах петунии.
Multicolored petunia Alderman, forming a compact and very lush bush with a height of 30 cm, does not require pinching. The exception is if the seedlings of the petunia stretched out and began to fall aside.
Can I pinch a petunia when it blooms?
Can. The main thing to remove from one plant no more than 2-3 shoots at a time, that is, not much to cut it. After pinching, fertilizing and microelements is required.
When untimely nip, the bush of petunia will be rather “empty”. After pruning, additional branches appear.
What to do with cut off shoots?
They can be rooted and used to obtain planting material. Not very short shoots are suitable for this, at least with a couple of internodes. To successfully root the cuttings of petunia you need:
- remove the lower leaves, if they are, leaving only a pair of upper leaves,
- place the cuttings in the water so that the stem only touches the water surface, in order to avoid rotting,
- when the stem gives the roots, plant the seedlings at the right place.
You can root the stalk in a light substrate of two-thirds of the sand (or vermiculite) and a third of the garden soil. Cut the stalk of petunia powder with root, stick in a pot with a substrate and cover with a transparent jar, bag or plastic bottle on top.
Watering is carried out through the pan. Usually in 10-12 days the petunia successfully takes root.
Video: Formation of ampelous petunia and its reproduction by cuttings
An important lesson from the channel “Garden, garden with your own hands” on how to pinch petunia with double benefit - we begin to form an ampelous plant, and also propagate the flower by cuttings. What to do then with the cuttings.
A beautiful petunia flower can be an ornament to any garden or balcony. But in order for the plant to show itself in all its glory, to form a lush bush and delight in abundant flowering, you need to properly care for it.
Now you know how to pinch a petunia and how to trim it. If you follow the above rules, you can enjoy the beautiful view and long flowering of the queen of the Letniki - petunias.
To please the eye lush and beautiful bushes with abundant flowering, you need to know exactly how to pinch (read what a pinnacle is in a global sense) petunia. If the petunias allow to grow independently, then it will just stretch out, and the flowers will be small. Proper pinching (pinioning) in petunias of the main growth point will necessarily stimulate lateral stems to grow and after 12 days, an edge in two weeks, they will have ovaries of flowers, which is what we are striving for.
How to pinch petunia correctly in later stages of development to give a certain shape? In the purchase seedling the first pinning is already done. Repeated - are performed depending on the variety. Therefore, let us emphasize how to pinch petunia of unpretentious varieties and selection (here - the best varieties of these beautiful flowers) hybrids.
The importance of pinning for any plant
Pinching is pruning either with scissors or with the fingers breaking off the top of the stem. After its implementation, the rest of the shoot thickens, the kidneys in the sinuses become larger, and the color of the leaves is richer. The process is carried out to grow young strong stems with flowers and the plant has acquired a delightful appearance.
It should be noted that the method only works if pinching is done before the end of the growing season.
First pinch on petunia seedlings
Pinning is performed in the following way:
- We form a sapling as soon as it starts to gain strength and grow.
- The best time to nip when petunias have developed several (5-6) leaves. If you do not make it in time, the seedlings will stretch, the bush will not have a spherical appearance, the stems will not branch.
- When planting a flower in the ground, pinning is performed after its rooting and adaptation (usually at the end of May). In order for it to take root well, it needs to organize suitable conditions for development: we do not plant seedlings thickly, then they will develop better, fertilize (feed) them to the root, regularly moisten and sprinkle with water leaves.
- When the seedlings are kept in a greenhouse (we grow it together with others), we perform pinning only after diving. Plants quickly (several days) adapt. And then they can be cut off.
- Formation is performed by shears or fingers. Over the last (5 - 6) leaf of petunia, remove the apical bud. This will create a new point for the growth of the stems and their branching.
After all the actions, the last emphasis is done on the powder of cutting at flowers or wood ash or powder of activated carbon. In order for the sapling to recover faster, it would be nice to spray it or to shed it with plant growth stimulants: "Zircon" or "Epin."
After the event, the seedlings slow down growth, but it is gaining momentum. The type of petunia becomes spherical when the lateral stems grow.
Length of escape for separation
The separated part of the shoot should be a centimeter 4, but still it is better for longer. If you prune the thinnest place on the stalk (the tip of the shoot) of a flower, then other shoots, developing in this place, will break off in bad weather conditions, wind.
We do not forget to fertilize the soil weekly, and we regularly moisten the shoots of the plants, preferably every second (third) day.
Re-pinching petunias - after disembarking in open ground
Pinching must be repeated 2 - 3 times, and not only on the central, but also on the side stalks of flowers. We perform this action when they grow to 13–15 cm. To improve the shape and rich flowering of petunias, it is advisable to shorten the shoots 28 to 30 days after the first procedure. At the same time, there should be at least 5 leaves on the main process.
Ampute varieties do not need re-pruning. But in many varieties, one of the branches continues to rapidly stretch, taking away the rest of the food and strength. In some cases, the ovary appears on it. Then it must urgently pinch with scissors (shears). To do this, counting from the bottom 3 - 5 leaves and cut off the rest. The growth point of petunia will change. It will not grow up, and let the side shoots.
I draw your attention to the fact that after pinning, the bloom moves back 12 to 14 days. But in the end not one flower will bloom, but several, and the buds will be larger.
Before the next pinching you need to wait until the bush grows. After that, shorten the stems, as a result - the flowers will be more dense. In this case, I recommend making the cut closer to the base of the branch, and not to pinch just the top of the head.
To the vegetation pleased abundant flowering, it is necessary to perform this operation without fail.
An adult flowering plant is pruned in order to better develop the bush and increase the time of its magnificence.
What to do next
With regular shortening of the shoots and enhanced growth of petunias, constant feeding with growth stimulant and full mineral fertilizer is required. Otherwise many thin stalks will develop. To achieve returns from the plant is possible only with constant watering and proper care.
We remember that it is necessary to cut off faded flowers in time (not to pull them out, but to pinch them off from a branch with a pedicle). By forming testes, they take power from the plant.
Final recommendations for pinching flowers
In the lion's share of cases, pinuning of the petunias is carried out 2-3 times: in the seedling phase, after planting in the ground and during the growing season. But if the third pinning can be neglected, then in the phase of seedlings and planting in open soil they are iron-binding.
Remember that trimming is stressful for our colors. For this reason, after it, the bushes freeze a little in development, but the development of lateral stems, which form large buds, increases.
- Try not to injure the germ. We use clean tools for pinning.
- We form a bush at a petunia in due time. Delaying the process has a bad effect on development.
- Pinning is done monthly.
- To prevent the plant from burning and death, we do pruning in the evening or in the morning, when the sun's rays are not very active.
- Plucked stalks are not thrown out, but we use them as cuttings (if only they possess a stable stalk and 5-6 leaflets). For rooting, cutting off the lower leaves, put them in a jar of water. As soon as the roots grow, we plant the stems in fertile soil. So you and I will have additional seedlings.
It is important to remember that if you cut the hybrid varieties of petunia, then the grown specimen will retain the appearance and characteristics of the original one. With seed multiplication this is impossible to achieve.
Petunias are blooming beauties with an obstinate but responsive character. If you constantly take care of them, competently care, they will gratefully delight you all summer.