Potted flowers and plants

Photos of royal pelargoniums and home plant care

Pin
Send
Share
Send
Send


This is a powerful bushy plant up to half a meter high. The shoots are branched, strong. The leaves are wide, with jagged edges. The surface is rough to the touch. The flowers are very large compared to other types of pelargonium. Their diameter can reach 7 cm. The colors are dominated by purple, white, dark pink, burgundy colors. Petals are usually fringed, corrugated. Monochromatic flowers are very rare, more often two colors are harmoniously combined in color.

Growing royal pelargonium at home is not an easy task. It grows quickly, rarely dies, but to maintain its decoration and make it difficult to bloom. The flowering period is shorter than that of “ordinary” geraniums, only three to four months. In order to plant flower buds, it is imperative to observe a cold wintering at a temperature not higher than 12 ° C. Royal Pelargonium blooms in spring.

Care of royal pelargonium: what to consider

How to care for royal pelargonium in a pot? It is important to provide her with full coverage, favorable temperature conditions, to find the optimal irrigation schedule in accordance with the conditions of detention. Experienced growers recommend sticking to the following rules.

  • Temperature . In spring and summer, the optimum temperature is about 23-24 ° C. In winter, royal pelargonium necessarily need a period of rest at 10-14 ° C. Cool wintering contributes to the abundant bookmark of flower buds in the spring. Keeping warm not only prevents flowering, it also weakens the plant.
  • Lighting The need for lighting is high not only in summer, but also in winter. In the summer the plant receives the necessary amount of light due to the sun, in the winter it is desirable to use fluorescent lamps. Without backlight flower buds will not be laid.
  • Watering It is necessary to water royal pelargonium taking into account the conditions of detention. In spring and summer, they warm them in a moderate amount of heat, but often in small portions twice a day. In winter, they simply maintain the soil moisture, preventing it from drying out completely. Only the top layer of soil should dry out. On a single watering take about 50 ml of water. Experienced growers advise replacing the top watering with the lower one to avoid soil compaction.
  • Humidity Normally grows and blooms in dry air conditions. Spraying harms pelargonium, leaves traces on its velvety leaves. Bathing in the shower flower is contraindicated.
  • Top dressing. Mineral fertilizers are applied at weekly intervals. Before flowering, around the end of March, potash and phosphate fertilizers are additionally added. Pelargonium does not like organics. In winter, feeding is stopped.
  • Ground Preference is given to soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Good composition - a mixture of equal amounts of sand, peat, turf, humus and leaf earth. It is useful to add ash - it reduces acidity, provides additional nutrients.
  • The pot. Use ceramic pots. With each transplant pot size take a little more - just a couple of centimeters. Young, small plants in spacious pots are not planted - it is fraught with acidification of the substrate, rotting of the roots.
  • Transplant The interval between transplants of adult pelargonium is two to three years. More often, there is no need to replant - a capricious variety is difficult to tolerate transplants, flowering is postponed. The frequency of transplants depends on the growth rate. When thin roots begin to make their way through the drainage holes, it's time to repot.

Trim rules

Cut royal pelargonium need to maintain the beautiful shape of the bush and full bloom. A common mistake is spring pruning. If you cut the pelargonium in the spring, it will transfer flowering for a year. Therefore, you need to form a bush only after flowering. It usually ends in the middle of summer, sometimes a little later.

Trimming is carried out twice with a monthly interval. After the first pruning, pelargonium will actively produce new shoots. To stimulate further branching they pinch after the fifth young leaf. Pinching is repeated up to five times in order to achieve a neat form of a bush and active formation of buds. The last pinching time is no later than the end of January.

Why are there no buds

Royal Pelargonium does not bloom for various reasons. In most cases, common errors in care affect.

  • Temperature . Incorrect temperature conditions, warm wintering. For the formation of flower buds in winter, pelargonium is kept cool.
  • Lighting Lack of lighting, especially in winter.
  • Big pot. In a spacious pot, pelargonium releases new shoots, grows leaves, but does not bloom.
  • Lack of nutrition. For flowering need two trace elements - potassium and phosphorus. If they are not enough, the buds will not form. The same effect gives an excess of nitrogen.
  • Incorrect trimming. Spring pruning defers flowering for a year. You need to wait until the end of flowering, and only then cut.

Breeding methods

Reproduction of royal pelargonium with cuttings is mainly used. Seeds use only store. The seeds collected from your plant will sprout, but the flowers will be smaller, they will lose their characteristic bright color.

Description. In order not to injure the plant once again, grafting is combined with pruning. Use cut tops with three pairs of leaves. Implant royal pelargonium in the water does not work - the base of the cutting rots. Therefore, they are planted directly into the ground.

  1. Before planting, the base of the cuttings is dipped in coal powder, dried for several hours.
  2. Deepen in a loose substrate. A mixture of equal amounts of sand and perlite or peat with sand is suitable. Once again, not to disturb the roots, it is better to immediately take individual cups. According to some flower growers, it is convenient to use peat tablets.
  3. After rooting, the cuttings are carefully transplanted into larger pots with nutrient soil. It is better not to rush, to carry out the first transplant in a couple of months.
  4. Pinch over the third pair of leaves. Pinching is repeated as it grows.

Description. Cultivation from seeds is used as a way to simultaneously produce a large number of young plants. Use only store seeds.

  1. Sowing starts towards the end of winter. Seeds are sown in a light, loose substrate under the shelter.
  2. Keep on good lighting, if necessary, illuminate with fluorescent lights.
  3. Daily check the moisture content of the substrate, remove the condensate from the film or glass.

Features of large-flowered pelargonium

As befits a plant with such a loud name, at home, the royal pelargonium, in the photo, is more demanding to care than the common varieties of zone geranium, and it does not bloom for such a long time. But, seeing only once huge flowers gathered in inflorescences, umbrellas of various shapes and colors, it is impossible not to get excited by the desire to grow an equally beautiful plant on your window sill.

Royal Pelargonium, reaching a height of 30–60 cm, differs from other varieties:

  • folded leaves with dense, rough to the touch sheet plate and jagged edges,
  • large, up to 7 cm in diameter with simple and double flowers.

Ornaments to the inflorescences are added by the multicolor coloring of the petals, but if the zonal geranium bloom period ends in the autumn, the last inflorescences on the royal pelargonium wither away in the second half of summer.

As a result, you can admire the caps of bright air colors for 3 to 5 months, and it is doubly sad if the buds never appear on the bush in the spring.

Why royal pelargonium does not bloom?

Having planted a young plant in the ground, amateur flower growers are looking forward to the appearance of spectacular inflorescences above the greens, but sometimes they have to face disappointment. Instead of flowers, large-flowered geranium gives only greens, and fast-growing shoots soon lose their appearance and stretch out. What mistakes were made when caring for royal pelargonium at home, and why, as in the photo, the plant was left almost without flowers?

Indeed, if pelargonium does not bloom in time, it may say:

How to care for royal pelargonium so that the plant blooms regularly, is healthy and does not lose its decorativeness all year round?

Summer care for royal pelargonium at home

Speaking about the unpretentiousness of pelargonium, experts on this type are not cunning at all.

In order for the royal pelargonium to feel comfortable and please the owners with abundant flowering, the florist needs to adhere to just a few rules that will lay down the success of the whole growing.

Large-flowered varieties of pelargonium require lighting and love to be exposed to the brightest sunny windows. Only on the hottest days, the plants require a blackout protecting against burns, but in other cases the restriction of light is a risk:

  • pulling and stripping shoots
  • reduce the intensity of flowering
  • dropping already appeared buds.

Unlike the related species, royal pelargonium does not tolerate drafts and cold wind, if such a plant is planted in a garden, it probably also will not please inflorescences. Therefore, royal pelargoniums are grown at home, and care in the summer includes protection from drafts. Plants feel great and bloom profusely on glazed sun terraces and loggias.

If the air is too dry in summer, pelargonium can be sprayed with water at room temperature, making sure that the direct rays of the sun do not fall on the wet leaves and inflorescences.

Flower growers, fascinated by this spectacular crop, you need to know that in hot weather, plants are most susceptible to attacks by aphids and other insect pests, which, parasitizing on the stems and leaves, seriously weaken pelargonium. And here the answer to the question: “Why does the royal pelargonium not bloom?” Will be obvious.

At the same time do not forget about watering and fertilizing flowering plants. Although pelargonium easily tolerates dry periods and is not too demanding on the composition of the soil, without water and food, it certainly will not give an adequate number of colors. In the warm season, large-flowered varieties require particularly abundant watering, which is carried out when the top layer of soil dries out a little.

It is possible to prolong flowering and save the strength of the plant, if we remove dried flower stalks that have lost their decorative effect in time.

Features of winter care for large-flowered geraniums

After the withering of the luxurious flowers, the pelargonium should recover, but if you leave it until the next spring on a warm window-sill, you can not wait for the next flowering. How to care for pelargonium in autumn and winter? With the onset of autumn, when the temperature drops, care for royal pelargonium at home is changing. Plants for three months provide:

  • temperature is about 12–15 ° C,
  • rare watering, only supporting the decreased activity of pelargonium,
  • sufficient lighting.

Feeding for the entire period of wintering stop. If all the conditions of care are met, the plant lays a sufficient amount of flower buds and will surely luxuriously bloom with the exit from the winter stupor.

Conducting transplants and dressing royal pelargonium

All types of pelargonium are characterized by rapid growth of the aerial part of the plant. If a bush that has grown considerably over the summer, along with the soil extracted from the pot, has completely covered the roots with an earthen clod, at the end of winter royal geraniums are transplanted. The soil for this culture should be loose, well breathable and moisture retaining. Considering why the royal pelargonium does not bloom, the florist must take into account the correct selection of the soil mixture. A good option is a mixture of equal parts of decontaminated garden land, sand and peat.

Since the root system of the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture, pelargonium requires a strong drainage layer, paying particular attention to the selection of the pot when planting. It is because of transplanting into too large dishes that many growers are disappointed in the culture, and the royal pelargonium does not bloom.

Getting into the volumetric pot, the plant rapidly increases the green mass, but completely “forgets” about the set of buds.

A similar process goes with the wrong mixture of fertilizers. If nitrogen predominates in the dressings during the time of bud formation and flowering, the stems and leaves grow and the buds become smaller. The best mixtures for fertilizing pelargonium are distinguished by a high content of potassium and phosphorus, providing abundant and long-term flowering.

Pelargonium trimming

The reason why royal pelargonium does not bloom may be incorrect or insufficient pruning. As the plants grow rapidly and the buds form on the tips of the shoots, it is easy to enlarge the pure flower buds, in July and August, pinching or cutting the tops of overgrown stems. This measure will allow:

  • The resulting cuttings are used for breeding,
  • achieve lush bloom in the next season,
  • stimulate the growth of young shoots
  • to give the bush a compact, attractive shape.

It is better to cut the plant gradually, without seriously injuring pelargonium, and after the operation the plant must be fed. At the end of winter, with the beginning of the new formation of buds pruning is completed.

Pelargonium cutting

The resulting cuttings can be rooted year-round, but in the warm season it is much easier to make it.

As planting material take strong tops of the shoots, having at least two pairs of leaves and cut 5 mm below the node. It is better to cut the lower leaves immediately and leave no more than 3 upper leaf plates. After this, the cut sections on the cuttings are treated with crushed charcoal and left in the air for 18-24 hours.

True, there is another way. Within 10 minutes after separation from the parent plant, cut cuttings:

  • process root,
  • planted in a mixture of sand, humus and peat,
  • 2-3 days covered with non-woven material.

Good results are obtained by planting cuttings in moist peat tablets.

In any case, planting is watered with a solution of phytosporine, which will protect sections from the development of rot. And how to care for pelargonium after cuttings gave roots?

Until the moment when cuttings at a temperature of 19–23 ° C, take root well, it will take from 8 to 12 weeks. After this time:

  • young plants are planted in a permanent place,
  • they pinch the main shoot over the third pair of leaves, which will force the bush to give new side stems.

If at home the care of royal pelargonium, as in the photo, is good, the young plants develop beautifully, and already next spring small neat bushes give the first inflorescences.

Royal geranium does not bloom: what to do?

This question is of concern to many gardeners. The reasons for this may be several. To understand them, you need to understand what the royal geranium needs. Care at home for this plant involves the correct choice of capacity for planting, the right soil, timely watering and pruning, ensuring a winter dormancy, transplanting if necessary.

Let us consider in more detail the reasons why geranium refuses to bloom. In the case when the plant is planted in too large a pot, pelargonium begins to actively increase the green mass and grow. In this situation, the plant simply does not have enough power to bloom, because its energy is spent on the growth of the root system and gardening. Replant the flower in a smaller vase.

Another reason - the flower is damaged roots. You should know that the royal geranium is subject to fungal and bacterial infections of the root system. Immediately determine the disease is not easy. This becomes apparent when the disease affects the stems and leaves. Geranium suffers from a lack of nutrients. In this case, the plant is treated with antiseptics, which are sold in all flower shops. However, if the disease is neglected, it is rarely possible to save the plant. Flower growers should be aware that any disease and pests (aphid, weevils, mites, etc.) make the plant spend all its strength on fighting them. About flowering in such a situation is out of the question.

Another fairly common reason is the absence of a resting phase. What should be done in this case? Reduce watering in the autumn-winter period, do not feed the flower. Move the plant to a cooler place (for example, to a loggia). Warm in the winter time is detrimental to the royal geranium. Watering also affects the flowering plants, although not as much as the above reasons. What kind of watering geranium requires and why it is very important for it to competent pruning, we will tell below.

Probably looking at the photos presented in our article, many will like the royal geranium. Care at home for this beauty has its own characteristics. In particular, it concerns watering. This procedure is best done through a pallet. The plant will independently adjust the required amount of moisture. Вода для полива должна быть отстоянная, комнатной температуры, можно использовать кипяченую охлажденную воду.

До цветения листья следует время от времени опрыскивать. Сухая корочка, появившаяся на верхнем слое почвы, является сигналом к поливу. Excessive moisture can cause plant diseases, and its deficiency leads to the absence of flowers.

Royal geranium: pruning for lush flowering

Quite often, growers make a very common mistake in caring for this plant - pruning is done in the spring. It would seem that this is the right time, but in this case the royal geranium can stop blooming. Pruning for lush flowering should be done in autumn and winter.

Often improper pruning leads to the fact that the plant grows too long stalks and it loses its decorative appeal. To form a beautiful crown, you must strictly follow simple rules:

  1. Conducting pruning, it is necessary to take into account the genetic characteristics of the plant. Royal geraniums should be low and bushy.
  2. Pruning is carried out with a sharp disinfected knife or shears at the level of the leaf node.
  3. Pinching is done with clean hands.
  4. Slices are treated with crushed cinnamon powder or charcoal.
  5. Stems facing the inside of the plant are completely removed.

Autumn pruning

Experienced flower growers know that they are very responsive to the competent formation of a bush of royal geraniums. Pruning for lush flowering is most often done immediately after pelargonium fades. This usually happens at the end of August. Carry out this procedure should be in two stages with an interval of 1.5 months. This is necessary in order to avoid severe stress of the plant.

With such an early autumn pruning new shoots of royal geranium builds up very quickly. Pinching them (above the fourth pair of leaves) stimulates the formation of new young shoots.

Trimming order

To pelargonium pleased you with lush flowering, you should follow a certain order:

  • removal of faded stems and flowering inflorescences,
  • removal of dried leaves and those that are prone to wilting,
  • inspect the plant and determine which shoots should be pruned to form a beautiful crown,
  • remove bare and long stems completely (at the lower node),
  • in geranium preparing for the winter, a third of the main stem should be cut.

Winter pruning

Flower growers with experience note that on short winter days, in the absence of sunlight, royal geranium is stretched to a height. Pruning for lush flowering at this time is partially replaced by pinching, and long shoots that appear are cut off.

In April, the royal pelargonium begins to bloom, so pruning should be stopped in mid-March. To preserve the shape of the bush, pinching can be carried out in the summer, after flowering. It is strongly recommended not to cut geranium from December to February, so as not to disturb the rest period. In winter, the plant is resting. At this time, it requires minimal watering and a lighted, cool (temperature no higher than 15 degrees) place.

Breeding

The royal geranium, as well as usual grades, propagates by cuttings. At the end of August, cut the cuttings 7–9 cm long, soak them for several hours in the air, and then plant them into a peat-sand mixture. Using a plastic bag, create a greenhouse effect and make sure that the soil mix is ​​always moist. Then prepare a mixture of sand, turf and leaf land and plant rooted cuttings.

We told you what is required in order to please you with its beauty royal geranium. Care and reproduction of this magnificent plant are somewhat different from the usual species. But if you follow all the rules of agricultural technology, this wonderful flower will reward you for your work in lush flowering, unfortunately, not too long.

Necessary conditions for pelargonium

From March to August, an ambient air temperature of up to 25 degrees Celsius is suitable for the best development of the Royal Geranium. In autumn and winter, you should not allow the temperature to rise above 20 degrees Celsius. The best option is 17-19 degrees Celsius.

This royal person loves a lot of light. Therefore, it should be placed on the windowsills.

The only exceptions are hot summer days when direct sunlight can cause burns on the leaves.

The most optimal variant of the lighting on the windowsill, provided that a tree grows near the window, which will partially shade the direct rays of the heavenly body.

It should be raised. Watering should be frequent, regular, moderate. Ideally, water in the morning and evening, 50 ml of water per adult plant.

By placing the pot with this flower in a room where drafts often form, you risk losing it. Sharp air currents are very harmful.

How to care for it to bloom: tips for beginners

Caring for royal pelargonium has its own characteristics, and to achieve its flowering is not always easy, you need to know some of the nuances. Every spring you need to form a plant trim. At the same time, the top layer of soil in the pot is replaced with a fresh one, without replanting the plant.

One of the main rules of care for this royal person is the water regime. She can not tolerate waterlogging. Waterlogging leads either to illness or death. Water must be defended and kept in the room where the flower is located. This is necessary so that the temperature of the soil and water does not differ.

Rest in the winter months is essential. At first glance, it is not needed. However, this period with a low temperature is necessary for the emergence of future buds.

It is important to fertilize our plant in a timely manner. This applies to the flowering period. Mixtures with a high content of potassium and phosphorus are suitable for feeding. They play a crucial role for successful flowering.

If nitrogen predominates in the dressings during bud formation and flowering, the stems and leaves grow and the buds become smaller.

Do not keep a flower in a huge pot. No matter how paradoxical it may be, but the flower loves closeness. While the roots will not climb out, the plant should not be transplanted. And if it is time to transplant, choose a pot a couple of centimeters larger than the current one.

Pruning a bush

During the winter months for natural reasons, natural lighting becomes dimmer. Because of this, the stalks of the geranium are drawn out. The distance between the leaves on the shoot increases. Pruning will help solve the problem. Pinching will give shape to the bush, visually increase the foliage. This must be done before the beginning of spring. From March, the flower will begin to prepare for flowering, to form buds.

In the summer months, circumcision is optional. Mainly dried flowers and leaves are removed, as well as shoots that violate the overall configuration.

This type of plant belongs to the fast-growing. The shoots give a sufficiently large number of buds, but extended shoots can spoil the desired result. The middle and the end of summer are the most optimal period for pruning of overlong shoots.

Proper pruning will allow:

  • to solve the problem of obtaining new cuttings for reproduction,
  • provide chic flowers for next year,
  • optimize the development of new shoots
  • modulate the desired parameters to the bush.

Next you can see the photo of the royal geranium.





Possible problems

As noted above, this the flower is moody. In case of improper care, the owner may encounter the following problems.

Among the most common diseases of pelargonium - “black leg” - is rotting of the stem of the plant. The disease is caused by frequent unlimited watering and low air temperature. As a rule, the affected plant can not be saved, except that prune the upper cuttings and transplant them. The soil is also infected. It is not suitable for re-use.

There are cases of infection with parasites: tick, aphid, whitefly. To get rid of them, you can wipe the underside of the leaves with infusion of chamomile pharmacy. After a few hours you need to wash the solution.

Rust fungal disease can also affect leaves. In this case, you need to resort to chemical treatment.

No flowering

This problem is very relevant, since Many plant this flower because of the gorgeous flower crown. The reasons:

  • temperature below normal (less than 10 degrees Celsius),
  • lack of necessary lighting,
  • too big pot
  • too fertile land
  • pruning was not done on time and poor quality,
  • lack of feeding or its wrong selection.

Foliage changes its natural state

Foliage reflects the health of the plant. If it is yellow, then perhaps not enough light comes to the leaves. If the foliage is green but sluggish, the plant is most likely transfused.

So, having studied this article, you now know the main points that must be followed when caring for royal pelargonium at home. She is certainly whimsical, but the beauty of her appearance takes the absolute counterbalance.

Short description

This flower is small, can reach up to 60 cm in height. The plant has upright and grassy stems. Bush is completely covered with leaves of emerald color, which have a rough surface and light down. Pelargonium inflorescences are large, and with proper care, they can reach 25 cm in diameter. On average, the diameter of the inflorescences is 15 cm. The flower stalks have different lengths: from 5 to 10 cm. The flower itself grows up to 7 cm in diameter. Forms and colors can be very different: white and purple, orange and purple, red and pink. Buds can be monophonic or with contrasting inclusions. Flowers can have wavy, corrugated or even edges.

The royal plant blossoms, unlike the usual geranium, not for long, about 4 months. Flowers look great on window sills, balconies and hanging pots.

Popular varieties

Consider the popular varieties of royal pelargonium with photos:

  • Variety 'Mandarin' has orange flowers. In the middle, the buds are white, on the even edge of the petals there is a white rim.
  • 'Candy Flowers Bright Red' - the plant has cherry-red flowers, and you can see blurred black spots on the petals. This variety branches well and blooms long.
  • 'Regalia Chocolate' - large flowers of dark red color with chocolate tint. The edges of the petals are even and wide open.
  • `Carisbrooke` -the flowers of this variety are light pink. On the upper petals there is a thin marble pattern in the form of specks and strokes.
  • 'Lavender Grand Slam' - the plant has an average height and pink-purple flowers. Dark-purple feathers are noticeable on the upper petals.
  • 'White Glory' - flowers are large, more than 7 cm in diameter. They are snow white in color and do not have a single speck.
  • 'Sally Munro' - variety has large flowers. The upper petals are dark red, and the lower ones are pinkish. This variety is able to bloom for the season more than once.
  • 'Candy Flowers Pink with Eye' - flowers of muted pink shades with black specks on petals.
  • 'Mona Lisa' - flowers large and white. In the middle are red stamens, and sometimes pink strokes can be seen near them. Petals have wavy edges.
  • 'Black Prince' - small bush, up to 40 cm tall. The flowers have a plum shade, and on the petals there is a silver rim.
  • `Georgina Blythe` - on a small plant are large red flowers with an orange tint. Their neck is white. Petals have wavy edges.
  • 'Morwenna' is a small variety with large dark red almost black flowers. Petals have lace edges.

Do I need to replant the plant after purchase

Mostly flowers are sold in disposable containers and with unsuitable substrate. Therefore, after buying the flower is recommended to transplant.

For the preparation of the substrate for pelargonium use 1 part of sand and 2 parts of humus, leaf and sod land. If it is not possible to prepare the mixture yourself, then you can buy in the store the usual nutrient substrate for flowers. The pot must match the size of the root system. Large capacity is not worth taking, since in it the pelargonium goes into greens, and you can not wait for flowering.

Location and lighting

For a royal plant to bloom densely, it needs good lighting. If you place the royal flower in the shade, it will grow, but will not give buds or flowering will be short.

To ensure the required amount of light, the flower must be placed on the southern window-sills. But it is necessary to ensure that the bright rays of the sun do not fall on the plant, otherwise they can burn the leaves. In winter, the royal flower needs additional illumination, as the stems are drawn out due to the lack of light.

Temperature conditions

In the hot season, the optimum temperature for pelargonium should not exceed 24 ° C. In winter, the flower will feel good at 12-15 ° C. If the plant overheats or stands in a draft, then you can not wait for flowering.

Royal Pelargonium loves moisture, so watering is plentiful. But stagnation of water should not be allowed. On hot days it is necessary to water a flower 2 times a day. In winter, watering is reduced. Pelargonium does not like when water falls on the leaves, so it is not recommended to spray the flower. And you need to water the plant at the root.

Fertilize the royal plant should be regularly - in spring and summer, this is done 1 time in 2 weeks. It is necessary to feed the flower with minerals, which include 3 components: magnesium, potassium, nitrogen. Ready-made complexes with additional additives can be purchased. If fertilizers are made independently, then minerals should be taken equal parts. And before flowering increase the composition of potassium and reduce nitrogen.

To increase the number of buds, growers recommend adding iodine: 1 drop of iodine diluted in 1 liter of warm water. This solution should be watered on the wall of the pot to avoid burns. 50 ml of solution are used per plant.

Pruning royal pelargonium (geraniums) is carried out for lush flowering and to make the shape of the flower compact. This should be done after flowering. This is mainly done at the end of summer and at the beginning of autumn. The second wave of pruning is carried out after 1.5 months in order not to injure pelargonium. Trimming rules:

  • you need to cut, given the characteristics of the plant - the flower should be small and have the form of a bush,
  • the procedure is carried out with an acute disinfected knife or shears at the level of the leaf node,
  • cuts should be treated with charcoal,
  • stems growing inward must be completely removed.
Trimming order:
  • you need to remove the faded stems and buds that have faded,
  • it is necessary to cut the dried leaves,
  • you need to carefully examine the pelargonium and determine which shoots are best to cut to create a beautiful crown,
  • removed the bare and long stalks,
  • for a flower that is preparing for wintering, it is necessary to cut the third part of the main stem.

Features of care in the winter

In October, the royal pelargonium begins a period of rest, which lasts through March. Flower care at this time is almost not required. The main thing - do not allow the earthen clod to dry. Feeding stop. In winter, the flower should be at a temperature of 12-15 ° C. Also, with the help of additional lighting, it is necessary to extend the light day for geraniums, so that the stems are not strongly stretched by a lack of light.

How often do the transplant

Many are interested in the question of why royal geranium does not bloom. One of the solutions to this problem can be a timely transplant. This should be done at least once every 2-3 years. It is also not recommended to carry out the procedure more often - the flowering of pelargonium may slow down.

The flower should be transplanted into a small pot so that the roots fit into it. In the tank must be drainage holes. Particular attention should be paid to the very drainage, which will not allow water to stagnate. Use as a drainage can be broken bricks, sea pebbles or expanded clay.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

Pelargonium diseases include:

  1. Gray rot. This disease develops due to an excess of moisture in the soil and a high content of nitrogen in it. Brown spots appear on leaves and stems. On all parts of the plant appears gray scurf. The flower must be transplanted into a new ground and treated with fungicides such as Fundazol, Rovral, Vitaros.
  2. Root and stem rot. Evidence of this disease black root neck, which begins to rot. The leaves become pale, and later they turn yellow and wither. The cause of this disease is increased moisture and low acidity of the soil. It is recommended to fight rot with drugs Biporam, Fitolavin.
  3. Late blight. The flower is affected by the fungus and quickly fades and decays. The fungus is mainly transmitted from the ground, but it can be drafted from another plant. The disease develops due to high humidity. Pelargonium leaves turn pale, the plant slows down in growth. You can also see white fluff in the hearth of rot. Treat the plant with Bordeaux liquid. Damaged parts of the plant must be removed, and cuts processed with charcoal. Be sure to require a transplant in a sterile pot and substrate.
  4. Eden. On the leaves are formed tubercles and growths. This disease occurs due to waterlogging. It is necessary to cut the diseased leaves and reduce watering.
  5. Verticillary wilting. This disease is very dangerous. Affected plants should be destroyed, and shoots with signs of the disease cut off. It is necessary to process plants with the help of Trichodermin biofungicide. You can also use Topsin and Fundazol.
К вредителям королевской пеларгонии относятся тля, клещи, термиты, гусеницы и белокрылки. Бороться с ними лучше всего такими препаратами, как «Марафон», «Монтерей», «Мессенджер». А также хорошо уничтожает насекомых аспирин: 1 таблетку нужно развести в 8 л воды и распылять на листья 1 раз в 3 недели.

Why does not bloom

Consider what to do if royal geranium does not bloom. One of the reasons may be a very large pot. Geranium increases green mass, grows. And for flowering, she does not have enough strength, since all the energy goes to the growth of greenery and roots. To pelargonium bloomed, it must be transplanted into a container with a smaller volume.

Also, the reason may be that a pest has settled in a geranium or a flower has fallen ill. All forces are spent on fighting them, so the buds are not formed.

The lack of a resting phase is also the reason why the royal plant does not bloom. In this case, it is necessary to reduce watering in autumn and winter, and also should stop feeding. Warm in winter is detrimental to the flower, so it should be in a cool place.

Despite all the difficulties of caring for royal pelargonium, it will delight you with its appearance and lush flowering.

Features of pelargonium grandiflora

Caring for royal pelargonium at home implies the fulfillment of a larger number of requirements than when growing geranium zonal, and it does not bloom so long. But the colors of the plant and its inflorescences, umbrellas will not leave indifferent and will surely cause a desire to grow it at home on the windowsill.

The height of the royal pelargonium reaches 30−60 cm, and it is distinguished from other varieties:

  • folded dense rough leaves with jagged edges,
  • large flowers.

The multicolor coloring of the petals adds decorativeness to the inflorescences, but whereas the period of flowering of the zonal geranium ends in the autumn, the last inflorescences on its royal relative wither in the second half of summer. So, you can admire the bright air colors for 3-5 months. Therefore, it is very unpleasant if buds did not appear on the bush in the spring.

Why the plant does not bloom

Having planted a young plant, amateur flower growers eagerly await the appearance of inflorescences, however, they often face disappointment, since, apart from greenery, nothing appears, and fast-growing shoots lose their appearance in a short time and are drawn out.

There are several main reasons why royal geranium does not bloom:

  • Wrong temperature.
  • Lack of lighting.
  • Excessively large pot sizes.
  • Non-harmonic composition of fertilizers.
  • Late transplant.
  • Illiterate pruning or lack thereof.

Summer care for royal geraniums

At home, large-flowered pelargonium is demanding for lighting conditions and loves the most “sunny” windows. Only on the hottest day will a blackout be required to protect against burns; otherwise, limiting the flow of light means risking. Action may cause:

  • reduction of flowering intensity,
  • stretching and stripping shoots
  • dropping bound buds.

Unlike related plants, the "royal person" does not tolerate drafts and cold winds. If you plant it in the garden, it probably will not please with buds. Therefore, grown at home and protected from drafts. The plant feels great and blooms profusely on glazed sunny loggias and terraces.

When summer dryness is excessively high, you can spray a flower with water at room temperature. At the same time wet inflorescences and leaves should be protected from direct sunlight. In hot weather, geranium often attacks aphid and other insect pests.

Do not forget about watering and feeding. Pelargonium easily tolerates periods of drought and is not particularly demanding on the soil composition, but without water and food will not give the number of flowers that could. In the warm season, the large-flowered varieties require particularly abundant watering, which takes place when the topsoil dries out a few.

It is possible to prolong the flowering period and preserve the flower's strength by timely removal of dried-up flower stalks that have lost their decorative effect.

Winter care

If, after the flowers fall, pelargonium is left on a warm window-sill until the next spring, the next flowering may not be. With the arrival of autumn, when the temperature decreases, the rules of care change. For three months should be provided:

  • 12–15 ° C,
  • rare watering, only to maintain declining activity,
  • sufficient lighting.

Feeding in the winter is not carried out. Under all conditions, the plant lays enough flower buds.

Transplanting and feeding

All geraniums grow rapidly aboveground part. If a bush that has grown up over the summer together with the earth from a pot has woven earth roots into a pot, at the end of winter the geranium is transplanted. The soil should be loose, allowing enough air in and holding moisture. As for the selection of a mixture of soil, a good option is a mixture of equal parts of sand, peat and decontaminated garden soil.

Since the roots do not tolerate stagnant moisture, pelargoniums need a powerful drainage layer. At planting no less attention is paid to the choice of the pot. Geranium does not bloom due to transplanting into too large dishes. In a large pot, the plant very quickly grows green mass, but “ignores” a set of buds. A similar process is also noted when the fertilizer mixture is incorrectly selected. When in the top dressing during the formation of buds and flowering more nitrogen, the stems and leaves grow, and the number of buds decreases. In the best mixtures of high content of phosphorus and potassium, which provides long-term abundant flowering.

Pruning plants

Royal Pelargonium may not bloom due to improper or insufficient pruning. Since the flower grows quickly, and the buds are tied at the tips of the shoots, it is not difficult to increase the number of flower buds by pinching or trimming the tops of the overgrown stems in July and August. Due to this it is possible:

  • Get cuttings for breeding.
  • Achieve lush flowering next season.
  • Stimulate the growth of fresh shoots.
  • Give the bush a compact and attractive.

Pruning is recommended gradually so as not to injure the plant seriously. After this procedure, pelargonium necessarily fed. Pruning ends in late winterwhen new bud formation begins.

Grafting process

Cuttings can root throughout the year, but in the warm season it is much easier to do.

Planting material are strong tops of shoots with at least two pairs of leaves, cut below the node by 5 mm. It is recommended to cut the lower leaves immediately and leave no more than three upper sheets. After this procedure, the slices are processed with crushed charcoal and left for 18-24 hours in air.

Another method - after 10 minutes. after separation from the parent plant, the cuttings are processed as follows:

  • Rooted processing.
  • Planting in a mixture of peat, sand and humus.
  • Covering for 2−3 days non-woven material.

A good result is obtained when planting cuttings in moistened peat tablets. Landings are always poured with phytosporin solution to protect cuts from the development of rot. Until the time when the cuttings temperature at 19−23 ° C rooted well, it will take 8−12 weeks. Farther:

  • Plants are planted in a permanent place.
  • The main shoot over the third pair of leaves is pinched in order for the bush to give new side stalks.

If you take care of the royal pelargonium properly, the plant will develop beautifully, and already next spring the first inflorescences will appear on small neat bushes.

Varieties and types

Currently, more than 1,000 varieties of royal geranium have been bred. Selection is mainly continued in Germany. Varieties of royal pelargonium are divided into several groups.

Candy Flowers group includes resistant varieties with lush flowering. These flowers feel great in the open field. These include, for example, the variety Cambi with beautiful delicate flowers, spots on the petals and light pink streaks.

There are pelargoniums with large inflorescences of dark cherry color and dark spots on the petals, such as, for example, the Camred and Candy Flowers Bright Red varieties.

In the Camdared variety, the outer and inner sides of the petals are colored in different shades. The bright red inner and pale outer sides of the petal give additional volume to the inflorescence.

Candy Flowers Pink with Eye - a variety with dark specks on pink leaves.

Angels carry a group of pelargoniums miniature varieties with a short flowering period. They feel great in the winter at home. The structure of the stem allows you to grow them as ampelous varieties. They do not need wintering with a decrease in temperature for the formation of buds. Unlike most royal pelargonium varieties, the representatives of this variety have a pronounced aroma. Among the most common varieties of the most popular Spanish Angel. The flower does not exceed 35 centimeters in height. The flowers are colored in two tones: the upper ones are darker and the lower ones are light purple. The diameter of each flower does not exceed 3.5 centimeters.

The Imperial Butterfiy variety also belongs to miniature varieties not exceeding 30 centimeters in height. Cute white flowers with lilac dash have a pleasant lemon scent.

By two-color varieties include Darmsden. The plant is not large, compactly located on the windowsill. Top petals dark cherry color. Bottom white, dashes possible.

PAC Angeleyes Viola variety with a pleasant citrus scent and beautiful lush inflorescence of delicate almost white flowers with a pink spot on each petal.


Some varieties of pelargoniums are able to bloom several times per season. For example, the Sally Munro variety. It pleases the eye with two-color flower with dark cherry upper and pale pink lower petals.

Favorite by many white varieties, among which the Mona Lisa variety can boast the most lush flowering, will decorate any window.

Popular varieties with a wavy edge of the flower. The representative can be considered Georgina Blythe - with red-orange flowers, white neck and white edging on the petals. The variety is so small that it rarely exceeds 35 centimeters in height. Beautiful land and the variety Morwenna. The plant is so dark in color that it is often confused with black. However, it can be described as a maroon velvet color.

Plant Care

Caring for royal geraniums is not very different from caring for other members of the pelargonium family. The homeland of the plant is South Africa. The flower was obtained by crossing several varieties specifically for home cultivation. The flower turned out warm and light-loving. The royal pelargonium is finicky in its care, but for its lush flowering it is very much loved by gardeners. For long flowering, you must follow some rules.

Features of summer care at home

Care for royal geraniums at home is easy. In summer, the flower is in a state of flowering, therefore, all pruning procedures are stopped until the beginning of planting of flower buds. It remains only to water and feed fertilizer. Fertilizer should not contain nitrogen, a small amount is permissible. It should timely remove faded flowers, it will prolong flowering and preserve decorative.

Average temperatures outside are comfortable for pelargonium, it can be exposed to fresh air. If in early spring or autumn the temperature falls below 22 degrees, the flower may be subject to various bacterial and fungal diseases, especially if this is associated with excessive watering. Also, low street temperatures can cause leaf reddening.

If the pot with a flower is on the street, be attentive to its watering. Temperature differences can lead to uneven drying of the earth coma. The best time for watering is before 10 am or after 6 pm, if there is confidence that the night will be warm. Despite the fact that the plant is from a very hot climate zone, direct sunlight can damage the delicate petals of the flower.

Pelargonium in the summer outside requires special attention and regular screening for the presence of insect pests. When the first signs of pests, the plant must be isolated and treated with insecticide. To plant a flower in a flower bed without a pot is not advised. The roots of the plant can damage insects; moreover, the royal pelargonium, unlike the zonal, does not like frequent replanting.

Features of winter care at home

At home, the care of royal geraniums is reduced to ensuring a period of rest with a decrease in temperature to 10-15 degrees. Only varieties from the Angels group do not need wintering, they can be kept at normal room temperature. Pots for wintering should stand at least two months. At this time, reduce watering and pinch the bush. Before wintering, the plant is prepared, the flower is cut by 1/3 and stopped feeding. This will allow next year to get more lush flowering and extend it to 9 months.

Fertilizers and fertilizers

Pelargonium grandflora prefers close pots, can grow in the same few years. The soil is exhausted, there is a need to feed. In early spring, leaving the dormant period, nitrogen-containing fertilizers will be useful for the flower. They will help the plant to "wake up" and begin to grow actively, forming dense green foliage. During the flowering period, phosphorus should dominate in the fertilizer - an element that promotes lush flowering. Feed the plant with fertilizer for flowering begin in March, finish feeding in September. Abuse of fertilizers in winter can damage the formation of flowers. If the pot is on the street and needs frequent watering, then the plant will have to be fertilized more often, as well as trace elements are washed out with water.

Every year after flowering, before the geranium leaves to rest, the plant is cut to 1/3 or 2/3. This procedure is carried out to obtain in the future more lush flowering and preserve the decorative appearance of the flower. Timely pruning will allow air to circulate freely inside the bush, save it from the appearance of rot and insects. Autumn pruning is necessary for almost all varieties of pelargonium, but in the spring it is not required.

Before the flower begins active growth in spring, it is examined, very thin and long shoots are cut. Spring pruning begin in February, no later than March. Do this with care so that at least 3-4 internodes remain on the shoot. With the help of pruning you can form a stem plant. To do this, remove the lower branches and leaves, leaving one large trunk. The stalk of pelargonium is very fragile and, with such a formation, needs support.

Step by step instructions for pruning pelargonium:

  • A sharp knife or blade is suitable for trimming. The instrument must be disinfected with alcohol or boiling water.
  • Shoots for cutting choose weak, strongly stretched out and creating excessive density in the center of the bush.
  • The cut is made at an angle, in the direction from the center to the periphery of the bush, above the leaf node. If the leaves in this place are not needed, make a cut under the leaf node.
  • The cut is treated with charcoal or cinnamon powder.
  • If the shoots are young and thin, you can pinch them with dry, clean fingers.
  • After the procedure, the plant is fed with nitrogenous fertilizer. This will allow the plant to transfer stress more easily.
  • Royal Pelargonium is very sensitive to pruning. To inflict less damage to the plant, it is recommended to divide the pruning procedure into two stages, to be performed within 1-2 months.

Royal Pelargonium is very sensitive to pruning. To cause less damage to the plant, pruning procedures are recommended to be divided into two stages and carried out within 1-2 months.

After pruning, cuttings remain that can be used to grow new plants, as well as vaccinations in order to produce an interesting and more resistant flower. With the help of vaccinations get stamp species. In this way, you can get a tree with different flowers on the same bush. For royal pelargonium it is better to choose fragrant pelargonium as a support. The basis should be a healthy plant not younger than one year. Graft miniature varieties better in early spring during the period of active growth.

Planting and breeding

Royal geranium easily propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds. The most popular method of reproduction is by cuttings, they are formed in sufficient quantity after the formation of a bush.

Seed multiplication is a more complicated and long process. It will not be possible to get the seeds by yourself, since all the representatives of pelargonium are hybrid forms, their seeds do not retain all the signs of the mother plant. It is safer to buy seeds in the store. Plants obtained in this way will be stronger and healthier, with a long flowering period.

Seeds are evenly distributed on loose soil, which must necessarily include sand or perlite (at least half of the total mass of the earth). The soil must be calcined or shed with a solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds are sprinkled with wet sand, slightly buried. The whole container is covered with glass or film, cleaned in a well-lit place, without direct sunlight, maintaining the temperature + 21 ... + 25 °.

When real leaves appear, the seedlings are distributed in individual pots, no larger than 10 centimeters in diameter and 14 centimeters in depth, with drainage holes and a layer of expanded clay. После появления пятого настоящего листочка рассаду прищипывают. Это стимулирует ветвление и позволяет получить более пышный кустик.

Когда и как пересаживать растение?

Пеларгония способна расти в одном горшке в течение длительного времени. В отличие от своих родственников, зональных гераней, королевская герань плохо переносит пересадку на летнее время в сад. From frequent change of place and transplanting the plant may die.

Plant transplantation is required when the pot is completely filled with roots. A new pot should be 1.5 - 2 centimeters more than the previous one. A very large pot will slow the growth of the plant, may cause a lack of flowering and even death of the flower. The plant will not form flower stalks until the root system completely fills the entire pot. The best for pelargonium is considered to be a shallow and not very wide pot of unglazed ceramics. You can put in a plastic pot, but you have to be careful with watering.

At the bottom of the pot must be a good layer of drainage, as which you can use expanded clay or fragments of ceramics. On top of the drainage it is advised to cut and put a circle of cotton cloth. It will retain small particles of soil and will not allow them to quickly wash out. The soil can be purchased at the store: any neutral one that does not contain moisture-holding components, such as sphagnum, will do. Dense, heavy earth must be further enriched with perlite. The substrate for planting should be loose and moderately nutritious. You can make the ground yourself. For this you need peat, sand and leaf humus. Royal Pelargonium prefers a neutral or slightly alkaline primer, a little ash can be added to the mixture.

Plant survival depends on the time of year. The optimal time for transplantation is February, March and April. Awakened bush, entering into a phase of active growth, easily tolerates transplant. It will be harder to adapt the flower transplanted in autumn. Without extreme necessity, it is better to refuse plant transplantation in summer or winter. During flowering, the resulting stress can lead to the death of the buds and the death of the whole flower.

The plant purchased in the store must be left for two weeks to adapt and go through quarantine. During this time, pelargonium will get used to the new conditions, it will be possible to make sure that there are no diseases and pests on the flower. Most of the plants in the store are sold in flowering condition, so you will need to wait until the flower blooms, and only then replant it.

They begin to replant with abundant moistening of the clod of earth, then drain the water into a new pot, and carefully removing the pelargonium with a clod of earth, install it in a new pot, filling up fresh soil. Abundantly watered.

Using peat tablets

The use of peat tablets will simplify the process of rooting cuttings. The advantage is that you do not need individual cups and primer. The tablets are placed on a pallet and watered abundantly. First, you can spill boiling water for sterility. When tablets absorb moisture, drain off excess water. Water must be kept for at least 3 days and contain a root-forming stimulator. For royal pelargonium is a must. After cutting, you can dunk the stalk into a powder that stimulates the appearance of the roots. Other species can take root without a stimulant.

The stalk is deepened 1/3 in the center of the peat tablet, tightly compressed, so that excess moisture is gone. Spraying and covering sprouts is not necessary, even contraindicated. Cuttings are placed on the window, shielding from direct sunlight. Peat tablets accumulate and retain a lot of moisture, so watering should be very moderate.

When the roots appear through the peat cup, the seedlings can be transplanted into pots. Soil suitable universal or special for pelargonium, can be purchased at the store. It is necessary to make drainage holes in the cup, pour claydite or perlite into the bottom. Then fill the well-moistened soil. Thin scissors free the roots of the plant from the pill walls. Places where the roots have grown into the pill wall are left intact. Having placed a plant in a glass, we fill the damp earth. The soil absorbs excess moisture from the lower layers of the pot.

In this form, the plant can grow until it is ready to be planted in a permanent place, or you can immediately plant it from a peat tablet into a permanent pot.

Growing problems

Tsar Pelargonium, perhaps the most beautiful and capricious in the care of all members of the family. Violation of conditions of detention can lead to stretching of internodes. As a result, the plant becomes less decorative and weaker. Most often the reason lies in the lack of lighting and lack of minerals.

The reason for the yellowing of the edge of the leaflet is insufficient soil moisture. Waterlogging can lead to general laxity of the bush and yellowing of the entire leaf plate, as well as to rot, infection by bacteria and fungi.

Many factors also affect flowering. Large-flowered pelargonium does not like frequent transplants. It should not be disturbed and transplanted more often than once every 3 years. Too large a pot will result in a lack of flowers. Fallen flower stalks and buds talk about too hot and dry air in the room or the presence of the disease.

If all conditions are met, and the flower refuses to bloom, the reason may be in the ground. Nitrogen-rich soil will lead to the lush growth of greenery and the formation of a strong shrub, but without flowers.

Application in landscape design

Unlike zonal geraniums, royal pelargonium prefers stability. She does not respond well to a transplant in a flower bed in the summer. The plant will be sick, likely to be affected by insects and fungi. In the summer, you can put pots and pots with royal pelargonium outside into a place hidden from direct sunlight. The beautiful subspecies of Pelargonium Angel has an interesting feature: in low light it becomes an ampelous form. It is ideal for vertical gardening and hanging pots. With sufficiently strong illumination, the shape of this miniature plant becomes erect, as in zonal species. Pelargonium in flowerpots is a beautiful decoration of balconies and terraces.

Pin
Send
Share
Send
Send