Vegetables

Rules for growing garlic and the subtleties of plant care

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In addition to the general rules, the care, planting and cultivation of garlic has its own characteristics for winter and spring species. For the full development of the plant and the preservation of the harvest it is also necessary to ensure the fight against diseases and pests.

General rules for growing garlic: types and methods of reproduction

Growing garlic has some nuances for the following types:

- winter. Gives an arrow very resistant to frost. Planting it is carried out in the autumn, it winters, and next season a full-fledged big head grows,

- spring. Do not give arrows. Planting - in the spring, he is able to store more rows, but his harvest is not so high.

Methods of reproduction, selection of teeth and seeds

Garlic propagates vegetatively, the arrowed species multiplies also by seeds.

For planting, only the cloves of the bulbs are taken from the spring species, winter can be propagated with teeth and seeds from aerial onions. But in the latter case, you must wait 2 years for the harvest of full-fledged bulbs.

In the first year, the bulb will give a small onion sets from one clove. It has the same beneficial qualities as regular garlic. The next year will grow a normal onion with a lot of cloves.

Gardeners often prefer the arrow garlic: it gives a good harvest.

shooter winter garlic

Reproduction is mainly carried out by teeth: the harvest of full-fledged bulbs is harvested in the year of planting. Every gardener knows how important it is to select the best, healthy seed. Also recommend periodically updating varieties. When selecting heads, it does not matter the form - spring or winter - they choose the healthiest and most qualitative in shape, weight of teeth.

Necessary actions before planting:

- sorting material by size and appearance. Remove small, infected with diseases, with bottoms in cracks, irregular in shape, with two vershinkami, dried, double garlic,

- remove dry, flabby, with any diseases teeth,

- do not recommend planting garlic from plants with stem nematode and other diseases,

- leave intact, large, with a whole shell of garlic,

- the selected material is to be disinfected with ash solution: 400 g of ash per 200 g of water. The mixture is boiled for half an hour, then cooled, drained. The teeth get wet in it for 2 hours. If there is a suspicion of infection by a fungus, the heads are kept in a formalin solution, and then dried.

The planting and cultivation of spring varieties of garlic is also carried out. germinated material: it will accelerate the growth of the plant.

Necessary conditions for germination: teeth wound with a damp cloth, placed in a bag of polyethylene, kept for 3 days, at room temperature. If grown with seeds from arrows, then choose healthy arrows with large baskets and dry them. They use the largest and most mature ones - small ones are also planted, but they will not give high-quality planting material.

Growing garlic: soil, beds, crop rotation

Proper garlic cultivation includes soil care and fertilizer. If it is poor, additionally complex fertilizer or superphosphates with potassium chloride (proportion 4: 1) is introduced into it. Ordinary manure added to the land in the fall will increase the yield. He will need 5 kg per 1 square. m., if the soil is very poor, you can increase this rate. But do not abuse this: garlic does not like too much fertilized soil. The ground should be light, sandy or loamy.

Growing garlic will give good results if you create the necessary conditions, including a fairly fertile soil, fertilizing, watering. Sandy or loamy fertile soils that garlic loves should be cultivated and with acidity indicator closer to neutral. An excessively moistened substrate, especially at a time when the ground is drawing moisture from the melt water in the spring, is detrimental to the development of the plant. In this case, the winter varieties will get wet, and the spring varieties will become impossible to plant on time.

Depending on the planted species choose different depth, width of rows, spacing. General care and necessary conditions in all cases:

- carefully leveled earth, dressing mulching of beds after disembarkation. For this purpose, humus is used, less often - peat. On 1 square. m. will be enough 10 liters, that is, a bucket.

- landing is done in the beds with wide aisles. Place for them: sunny, well lit.

garlic bed

Below are the necessary conditions regarding the neighborhood of other plants and the seed shift. The main thing is not to plant garlic in the beds where before that he and onions. After them, you have to wait 4 years to update the soil. The same applies to potatoes. After beets, cucumbers, cabbage, any legumes, pumpkin garlic will give the best yield. The soil after them, as a rule, is optimally fertilized with organic matter, its care is simpler, the possibility of disease damage decreases. But it is not recommended to share only the beds with them: they inhibit the development and growth of garlic.

The best fit for the light-garlic - in separate unbroken beds. If the places are few, they organize rows adjacent to vegetables, and berries. Neighborhood allowed with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, black currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries. Neighborhood with gladioli, tulips, roses will benefit. Care of the latter will be easier: garlic protects them from black spot.

Growing spring varieties of garlic

For spring varieties, spring planting is relevant.

The necessary conditions:

- landing after the snow melted (April - May),

- temperature mode of landing from + 5 ° C and above. At this time, the soil is usually wet, so watering is not needed. If the soil is dry it will be necessary to moisten the soil abundantly.

- Spring variety is planted at a depth of double height of a clove (3-5 cm). If the clove was germinated, it should be planted carefully so as not to harm the roots. Next, immediately mulch the beds. Planting and cultivation of garlic is not particularly difficult. Rows are made with an interval of 18–20 cm, garlic placed in 7–9 cm.

Garlic grows at + 3 ° C and above, it is not afraid of frost.

Necessary conditions for better development at different stages:

- the beginning of the growing season: + 5 ... + 10 ° C,

- nucleation, onion formation: + 15… + 20 ° C,

- development and maturation: + 20 ... + 25 ° C.

For a good harvest, mulching of the beds is mandatory, especially if the crop grows in a region with hot summers. Mulch is recommended light (from straw, hay).

planting garlic cloves

Planting garlic winter varieties

Growing garlic winter varieties has its own characteristics. Necessary conditions for this:

landing time: September October. Timeliness is important: early will cause growth ahead of time, which will reduce frost resistance, late - teeth will not have the strength to root well, this will prevent frosting,

the soil should settle, so the plot is prepared a week before disembarking. Further, they create furrows, a layer of coarse sand or ash of 1.5–3 cm is poured at their bottom, so seedlings will not come into contact with the soil and rot,

gap between rows - 20–25 cm, garlic planted in 8–10 cm or 12–15, if they are very large. For winter crops, a deeper planting is desirable - 8 cm with loose soil.

care includes mulching beds: it additionally protects against cold. Enough 1.5–2-inch layer of mulch. It is made from dry peat, a mixture of sawdust with the ground. In case of severe frosts and small snow cover, the beds are covered with polyethylene, and roofing material is suitable. But they need to be removed immediately when the snow begins to fall so that it covers the ground. Instead of these materials, you can use a thicker layer of mulch.

At the same time, seeds are planted from bulbous bulbs at a depth of 2 centimeters, according to the 2 x 10 cm planting scheme. Sow also in early spring - by mid-April. The harvest of one-teeth obtained from the arrows, pulled out of the ground, dried, planted again - the next year they give full-fledged bulbs. Winter garlic is resistant to cold. Rooted garlic tolerate winter and frost temperatures as low as -20 ° C. But if there is not enough snow, too low temperature can lead to freezing, so be sure to mulch the beds, throw snow on them and cover.

In the warm season, the same care is needed for winter varieties as for the spring ones: the temperature regime, watering, fertilizing, and mulch are the same during the summer months.

Flower arrows from the corresponding winter species are removed when they reach 10 cm, thanks to which the harvest is more generous. Plants with arrows leave if bulb bulbs are needed for seeds.

Growing garlic: care, watering, feeding

Garlic cultivation and care consists of the following items: mulching, watering, loosening, dressing, weeding.

Watering garlic should not be too abundant. The standard is watering 10 liters per square meter, if the soil is very dry. The interval is a week. As the water ripens, less (8–6 l) is required so that the bulbs do not rot. Two weeks before harvesting, watering is stopped. Watering can be characterized by the following rule: excessive moisture damages garlic, but it requires systematic soil moisture, especially in the early growing season.

After each wetting soil gently loosened 2-3 cm. If there is mulch, this is not required. The arrows are removed when they reach 5–8 cm - the harvest will be more generous. The first feeding is done after 2–3 leaves have formed: a large spoon of urea is diluted in a bucket of water. On 1 sq. M. 5 l will be enough. The following feeding is in two weeks: a teaspoonful of urea is enough for a bucket of water, one large spoonful of double superphosphate, potassium sulfate. The third (last) top dressing is at the end of June, when garlic forms are formed, onions are formed and arrows appear. On a bucket of water enough 2 large spoons of double superphosphate and one - potassium sulfate.

Top dressing combined with watering. In the period between fertilizers, plants are sprinkled with wood ash: one cup per 1 square meter. If there is mulch, loosening is not required. The best mulch for garlic from straw. The bed is covered with it when the seedlings reach 10–15 cm. It does not allow moisture to evaporate - watering can be done less often.

Feeding is also carried out according to the following scheme:

- the first: in the spring after the snow melt. For this well suited solutions: manure (cow) (1:10) or bird droppings (1:12),

- the second: June - July. The solution is made from ash: 200 g per 10 l of water.

Weeding spend systematically with the emergence of weeds. Watering for winter varieties should be more abundant. In winter, the beds are covered with snow.

Watering rules:

- the first phase (active growth) is abundant,

- the second phase (the maturation of the bulbs) - moderate,

- during the rainy period, watering is stopped altogether.

High humidity in the second half of the growing season may cause diseases and bulging of the bulbs.

Garlic Cultivation: Tricks and Tips

Garlic from the head to unpin at the time of the landing. Recommend to choose the most extreme segments: the harvest is more generous. Planting is carried out not by pressing into the soil, but by placing it in an excavated recess.

As soon as the shoots are shown, the soil is loosened, but only 1–2 cm deep, then the bed is mulched, and fertilizer is first made with mullein or urea. If the soil of the garden is dry, it should be watered, otherwise the garlic will be dry and bitter.

Growing spring varieties of garlic does not require a deep planting - 2-3 cm is enough, for winter crops - 8 cm. The crop is harvested as soon as the leaves start to wither.

Growing garlic: pests and diseases

Growing garlic is often accompanied by diseases:

gelmintospirosis. The reason is a fungus. Brown depressed spots on teeth. Over time, the spots become black, the fabric of the teeth rot. Planting is not done by such teeth: chlorotic stains will appear on the plants, they will be sluggish, the leaves will die. Often affects garlic with white scales. Infection occurs through poor-quality material, so it is etched with formalin - 2-3 ml per half liter of water is sufficient. Teeth immersed in it for 10 minutes in the pouch. Pull out, wrapped in cloth for 2 hours, then dried and aired. Garlic can be infected with this disease in the garden from bulbous or solanaceous (potatoes, tomatoes),

neck rot. Appears with other diseases. Particularly develops with inadequate storage and transportation, as well as on non-mature and wet heads. Infection can occur from diseased planting material or from the soil. Treatment: formalin disinfection of the storage site, sorting and removal of diseased material,

Donets rot - Fusarium. The reason is a fungus. Symptoms: yellow leaves, dying off of the roots, patches of mycelium (mycelium) on the bottom of a white, pink shade, it is he who causes rotting of the bulb. Good results of treatment are given by the Quadris fungicide, they are also used against fungi,

bacterial rot. Pathogens - bacteria. Symptoms: brown sores on garlic, they become vitreous, the color changes, there is a smell of rot. Treatment: before planting, pickle in blue vitriol, in fungicide, for example, in Fundazole,

powdery mildew - peronospirosis. Symptoms: a gray tint on the leaves, arrows, dried diseased parts of the plant, unripe bulbs. Means: treatment with fungicide "Thiram", fentiuram. Spraying fungicides ("Arceride", polycarbicide),

white rot. The reason is a fungus. Symptoms: yellowing, dying off of the leaves, white mycelium on the roots, bulbs. Means: dressing before planting with "Tiram", foundation, means against fungi,

green mold - penicillus. Means: disinfection of the soil with copper-containing fungicides, care for planting material and its dressing with formalin,

Black mold - Stemfiliosis. Symptoms: yellow spots on the leaves, which gradually become covered with black mold. It is not fatal, but reduces the yield. Remedies such as against other fungal diseases,

- stem nematode. Treatment: etching in a solution of potassium permanganate and formalin.

Folk remedies to combat diseases of garlic:

- against powdery mildew. Ash solution: 200 g per 10 l, aged for 5 days. Mullein infusion: 1 kg per 10 liters of water, you need to insist day. For spraying also used a decoction of horsetail,

- against fungal diseases. Infusion of marigolds upright: 500 g is poured over 10 liters of hot water, for 12 hours.

Of the pests are the most dangerous onion flies, their larvae, they feed on the bulbs. Dangerous onion hoaxers, thrips, covertmoths, moths, stem nematodes, as well as ticks: root and garlic are dangerous. Means of struggle: insecticides "Rogor" or "Keltan", etching with colloidal sulfur.

Protect garlic planted near chicory, calendula.

Prevention and necessary conditions to exclude diseases:

- planting and growing garlic from healthy seed only, which is systematically checked and sorted during storage,

- dressing if necessary,

- airing, cleaning, removal of organic residues from storage,

Types of garlic

Growing garlic, you must consider the type of this plant. He is winter and spring.

  1. Winter variety They are planted in the fall, in the middle of October, as this species is frost resistant and tolerates cold winters well. As a rule, a big head grows in the new season. The main feature of the winter variety is that it gives a seed needle with bulbs and can reproduce both with cloves and aerial bulbs.,
  2. Spring variety does not give arrows and breeds only teeth. Put it in early spring. The heads of the spring variety are not large, but it is stored much better than winter crops. Care for garlic in the spring and summer does not require additional efforts, such as hilling and shelter for the winter.

Cultivation methods

Depending on the type and variety, there are three types of planting that can be used in your garden.

  • First way - it is cultivation by teeth of bulbs. After harvesting, it is necessary to select healthy heads with teeth, which do not have a damaged skin. They must be large or medium in size, free of dents, and hard to the touch. Disassemble the head of garlic on the teeth should be only before planting,
  • Second way - It is planting Zubkov grown from aerial onions. From one bulb to the end of the season will grow a head with several large cloves,
  • Third way - this is the cultivation of a full-fledged head of aerial onions To head was large, it will take two years. But in the first year of a single bulb of onion contains all the useful qualities of garlic. This method is used in the cultivation of winter varieties. Sowing of onion bulbs is done only in spring, as the seeds may not survive the winter and die.

What method of planting you give preference - it does not matter, as long as the planting material is healthy and of high quality.

Planting and care

Garlic will give a good full harvest, the cultivation and care of which will be carried out according to the rules. Озимые сорта чеснока, как правило, высаживают осенью примерно за две недели до наступления холодов. Это делают для того, чтобы он успел укорениться и не успел прорасти. Если чеснок посадили раньше, и до морозов он пророс, возникает риск потери урожая.In this case, you should take care of hiding the beds with hay or straw beforehand, but you must roll it up before this. And in early spring you need to loosen the soil, so that the onions are not rotten, and can fully develop.

Land for planting should be prepared in advance. Choose a well lit place, on which water will not stagnate in autumn, spring, and also in summer when watering. You should not plant the plant to its former place, as well as to where the onions or potatoes had previously grown. The selected area should be dug up and cleaned of weeds. Mineral fertilizers are made in advance in the soil - potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate, superphosphates and humus.

The prepared teeth are placed in a non-concentrated solution of copper sulphate or manganese. Enough 2−4 hours soaking in order to reduce the risk of plant diseases and protect it from pests. After soaking, the teeth are planted in rows that are made from each other at a distance of about 25 centimeters. The width between the teeth in a row depends on its size and can reach up to 6 centimeters. The plant must be submerged 3–6 cm deep. If the teeth are planted deeper, they may not germinate and rot in time, and if they are above 3 centimeters, they will not withstand frost in the winter and will die.

Summer varieties are planted in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. At this time, the onions for good growth will be enough moisture in the soil and moderate air temperature. What will be the harvest of spring garlic, directly depends on its proper storage in winter.

Garlic should be planted in damp ground, and you should not water it after planting, because the soil will dry up with a dry crust, which will block the access of oxygen and will become an obstacle for young shoots.

Features of the winter species

Care for planting winter garlic must begin in the fall. First of all, care should be taken to ensure that it will safely overwinter. For this, it is necessary to cover the bed with a layer of straw, hay, or fallen leaves, and if it has managed to germinate, then it is worthwhile to spud it.

In spring and summer, care for both winter and spring garlic is no different. In spring, when the temperature rises, the sprouts intensively begin to germinate and need feeding. The best fertilizer during this period - infusion of mullein or urea. Total for the season is enough three dressings.

Dry summer beds should always be watered, but so that the water does not stagnate between the rows. Garlic does not like too wet soilIn such conditions, the plant rots. And two weeks before the harvest, watering is completely stopped.

After each watering or rain it is necessary to loosen the soil. So you can not only provide air circulation, but at the same time get rid of weeds.

In winter variety seed growth develops during growth. If there is no need for seeds, then the arrow must be removed. You shouldn't pull out the arrows, you can damage the young head of garlic, it is better to just cut it. After the arrow is removed, nutrients enter the bulb, accelerating the process of formation and development of the head.

Harvesting rules

In mid-July, begin harvesting garlic. Determine whether the plant is ready for harvesting, you can by leaves or arrow with aerial onions. Garlic is considered ripe when its leaves are yellowed and dried. If this is not a consequence of the disease, then you can dig out. It is very easy to find out about the maturity of the heads in the bulb-head: the mature arrow stops curling and straightens, and the aerial bulbs begin to crack. Therefore, it is advisable to leave a pair of arrows and not delete them.

Many gardeners dig up garlic according to the popular calendar on July 12 for the feast of the Apostles Peter and Paul. It is believed that by this time the plant is fully ripe.

Digging garlic is necessary forks or special shovel, so as not to damage the head. They can not be pulled out of the ground, as they can crumble into cloves, remain in the ground or be damaged. Cut the leaves immediately not worth itlet the garlic dry in the shade or in a well-ventilated area. Then clean it off the ground, cut off the roots and leaves, leaving a wand up to 3 centimeters high.

Garlic storage

Harvest dried in a place protected from the sun. The room must be dry and well ventilated. Dried heads are sorted by size, removing the sick and damaged. Immediately prepare planting material for the autumn planting.

To preserve the harvest until spring, it is necessary to store it in a cool place at a temperature not higher than +18 degrees in bags, boxes or boxes. The place for winter storage should be dry and darkened, otherwise the garlic will begin to germinate early, losing its taste. Proper care during storage of the crop in the winter will help maintain healthy heads for spring planting.

The arrows of garlic left for planting are kept on the bed for a couple more weeks, and then carefully cut, gathered in bunches and hung out with bulbs down in a cool, ventilated room. After drying, which lasts about a month, formed onions clean, selected and sorted. The selected onion can be planted in the fall. If the planting is postponed for spring, do not touch the bundles in autumn, you should leave them until spring, and only before planting you should clear, select the best ones and plant.

Pest and disease control

Growing garlic is not only a care, but also a fight against diseases and pests that affect the plant. Garlic, like every plant, has its own problems. Such insects can damage the plant and take away your harvest:

  • onion fly and its larvae,
  • stem nematodes,
  • thrips,
  • onion hots,
  • mole
  • covertly
  • root and garlic mite.

By planting calendula and chicory next to the garlic, you can protect the plant from pests. Etching colloidal sulfur and the use of insecticides, gives a good result in the fight against insects.

Garlic diseases The most common are fungal plant diseases:

  • white rot
  • gelmintosporiosis,
  • Donets rot (Fusarium).

Determine whether the plant is infected, can be on the leaves, they turn yellow, become lethargic and die. Having dug a garlic head out of the ground, one can see the root system dying off, a fungal plaque that causes the onions to rot. With fungal diseases, chives are also affected; they are covered with brown spots, which gradually turn black and rot. Look closely at the plant, as you can encounter the following troubles:

  1. if the plant was infected with other diseases, then when storing garlic in winter, neck rot may appear,
  2. Bacterial rot covers the heads with brown spots, gradually making it glassy with a putrid odor. The causative agents of this disease are bacteria,
  3. black and green mold, powdery mildew, stem nematode, and this is not the whole list of diseases.

To reduce the risk of plant infection by disease, use the information from the article: observe storage conditions, plant in a suitable place, leave healthy vegetables for planting and storage. If, after all, the plant is sick of one of many diseases, use formalin, fungicides and antifungal agents. Well help folk remedies to combat disease. An infusion of ash, a decoction of horsetail can easily cope with powdery mildew, and an infusion of marigolds - with a fungus.

Observing the rules of growing garlic, we get a good healthy harvest, which will replenish the winter storeroom stock and give high-quality planting material.

Selection of planting material

If you plant teeth from your own harvest last year, then you only need to choose the largest heads for seeds. They should not have double teeth, as well as double tops - these are signs of degeneration. Not suitable for planting teeth with external injuries and signs of disease. Before planting spring garlic, they need to be prepared: to vernalize and germinate.

  • jarovization - kept in the fridge (not in the freezer!) for a month,
  • sprouting - placed in a damp cloth, wrapped in a bag and kept in the vegetable section of the refrigerator until the germs of the roots appear.

Harvest from the prepared planting material will be higher. To disinfect it, disassembled into the heads with root buds soaked in ash solution or in a solution of potassium permanganate. To prepare the ash solution, 400 g of ash is boiled in 2 liters of water for half an hour. Teeth spread for 2 hours in the cooled solution.

To prepare a solution of potassium permanganate, one teaspoon of the drug is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of warm water. Exposure time - 10 hours. Prepared teeth are planted in the garden.

Soil and site preparation

Growing garlic begins with the preparation of the soil. This procedure is carried out in the fall. The place for plants is sunny, the leaves will grow in the shade too, but you won't get a good head. Spring garlic prefers loose fertile light or medium loamy soils with a sufficient content of humus. The reaction of the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic.

From the autumn when digging make on every square. m:

  • 0.5 buckets of humus or a well-matured compost,
  • 2-3 glasses of ash,
  • 15 g of complex mineral fertilizers.

Immediately before planting, the bed is loosened, but not dug up. It should have a flat surface so that all the planted teeth are at the same level.

After which plant garlic

The right precursors for spring garlic are very important. From them depends largely on the health of plants. It is best to plant spring garlic teeth after any pumpkin crops. They do not have common pests and diseases, and the beds after their harvesting remain well manured, the soil is loose and fertile. Good predecessors are cereals, greens or legumes. But returning garlic to its original place or planting after onion is possible only after 4 years. Undesirable neighborhood beds with garlic and peas and beans. Their selection does not like each other, and the harvest of all crops will be low.

How and when to plant

Spring garlic is planted only in spring. With a podzimny landing, he could easily freeze out. However, this representative onion is not afraid of frost, so it is planted as soon as the earth warms up to 5 degrees, but still retains moisture after the snow melts. Spring garlic roots increase better at low temperatures, so you should not be late with planting dates. They depend not only on the growing region, but also on the weather.

Planting method: grooves are formed on a bed of about 4 cm in depth, in which the teeth are carefully folded down. It is impossible to press them into the ground - the fragile root buds are easily damaged, and then the shoots will have to wait a very long time. Ideally, if the orientation of the rows is from west to east - so they will get the most light.

Landing pattern

Teeth are planted shallowly, dusted with a layer of earth 2 cm thick. The distance between small teeth is about 8 cm, and between large teeth - up to 12 cm. The row from the row should be at a distance of 25 cm. Planting should be well mulched with a layer of humus 3-4 cm thick It will serve the plants as an additional food and will save the soil from drying out.

Winter garlic: growing nuances

This type of garlic boasts large heads. In some varieties, cloves weigh 12 grams or more. Even from the name it is clear that they put him in the winter. After planting, the teeth should have time to take root before the frost, but do not give sprouts. Usually for this they need 1-1.5 months. Therefore, the landing dates are calculated based on the occurrence of a frosty period in this region.

Growing winter garlic

Winter garlic has a high yield and large size. The disadvantages of winter garlic include a short shelf life.

Winter garlic is suitable for preservation or pickling with various vegetables.

Landing dates

Garlic is planted in the autumn, after the first cold weather comes, but before the soil freezes. As a rule, this is the beginning of October - the middle of November.

As a planting material is better to buy the largest garlic bulbs. Over time, it will give its own stock of garlic.

Soil preparation and crop rotation

To prepare the ground for planting winter garlic, you need to bring ash and sand into the soil a few weeks before planting. Garlic grows better in well-drained soil, as it does not tolerate stagnant moisture and prefers a soil with a high content of organic matter. A high bed is an ideal place to grow garlic.

The soil must be fertilized with rotted manure or high-quality compost. To do this, scatter a layer of compost 3–5 centimeters thick over the entire area of ​​the planting and dug up shovels to a depth of half the bayonet. Like most horticultural crops, garlic grows best when the soil pH is between 6 and 7. If the soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost before winter planting, no further fertilizer is needed until spring.

Crop rotation rules prohibit planting garlic at the same place more often than once every five years. But often the small size of the site does not allow to strictly adhere to this rule. Therefore, it is quite possible to return the garlic to its former place of cultivation, provided that an interval of 2 to 3 years is maintained and the correct predecessor plants are selected.

It is not recommended to plant it after onions, potatoes, carrots and other root crops, since their cultivation significantly impoverishes the soil. Not the best predecessors of garlic are solanaceous cultures that can infect it with fusarium. And after legumes, cauliflower, cucumbers, zucchini and melons, the garlic will feel good and will delight you with a wonderful harvest.

When planting should consider:

  • A garlic bed should be lit by the sun at least 5 hours a day,
  • The soil pH should be from neutral to slightly acidic (6-7),
  • Do not use fresh manure to fertilize the soil,
  • Planting material should be placed at a distance of 15 centimeters from each other, a depth of 5-7 centimeters.

Preparation of planting material

The additional processing of cloves before planting has a positive effect on the quality of the garlic harvest. It serves as a preventive measure against viral, fungal and bacterial diseases.

For the treatment of planting material, you can use special preparations sold in gardening stores (Fitolavin, Fitosporin-M, Maxim).

Equally effective will be the use of available tools. For example, you can soak the teeth in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10 - 12 hours.

You can also soak the planting material in saline before landing for 3 minutes. To prepare the solution will need 3 tablespoons of salt mixed with 5 liters of water.

Good results are obtained by treating the head of garlic with copper sulphate solution.

Planting teeth (lateral buds) bulbs

On the day of planting it is necessary to form beds of 1 to 2 meters wide. The teeth are planted at a distance of 15 to 20 centimeters from each other and deepen from five to seven centimeters. Zubkov weight should be at least 4 grams. Place the landing on top sprinkled humus per centimeter.

Garlic must take root before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, the best landing time will be from early October to mid-November.

Garlic can not be planted a whole head. Before landing the head is divided into single teeth.

Landing aerial bulbs

To obtain a good harvest of garlic planting material is recommended to be updated periodically. At the same time, small aerial garlic bulbs obtained from the peduncle, the arrows of a well-developed plant, are used as seeds. When the twisted arrow of garlic straightens, it's time to collect the seeds of aerial onions.

They are planted for the winter in the year of collection, pre-sorted and dried for a month.

Planting time and the process of soil preparation is the same as when planting winter garlic teeth. Before sowing, air bulbs are soaked in a solution of wood ash for at least 12 hours. Seeds are planted at a distance of 4 to 6 centimeters from each other and deepen from three to four centimeters.

The mulch covering layer should be about 2 centimeters. Spring care for plants coincides with the care when planting teeth.

In the first year, a single-toothed bulb (sets) grows from the air bulbs, which then serves as a good renewed planting material. At the same time, timely harvesting is very important, as ripe single-jawed bulbs are prone to self-deepening. The harvesting time can be determined by the condition of the plant - the leaves begin to turn yellow and wilt down.

After two years, small air bulbs will grow into bulbs of standard size.

Planting single-toothed bulbs (sevke)

If necessary, obtain very large single-teeth bulbs sev single-bulbs planted in the spring, in the second decade of April.

For conventional garlic heads, planting is done in the fall.

Before sowing, the largest, bright and even bulbs are selected. Planting sevok should be rows at a distance of 10 - 12 centimeters from each other and 20 centimeters between rows. Предпосевная подготовка почвы, выбор места, а также сроки высадки такие же, как для воздушных луковиц и зубков – с начала октября до середины ноября.

Уход весной и летом

Весной можно убрать мульчу в сторону, чтобы согреть почву естественными солнечными лучами и ускорить рост. Как только почва прогрелась и начали появляться маленькие зеленые побеги, немного мульчи нужно вернуть на место, чтобы сдерживать рост сорняков и удерживать влагу.

Garlic does not require abundant watering if the soil is not very dry. The less water when watering, the more concentrated the flavor of garlic.

In the summer, spring and winter garlic give arrows that need to be removed because they do not allow for a good harvest.

Joint cultivation

In addition to observing the rules of crop rotation, it is equally important to find good neighbors in the garden. Neighboring plants help resist infectious diseases and protect against pests.

All kinds of salads, as well as spicy cultures, will be good neighbors of garlic. They can be planted on the same bed alternating rows.

Garlic has a beneficial effect on the growth of Solanaceae - deters the Colorado potato beetle and minimizes the damage to late blight. Garlic planted next to strawberry or strawberry bushes increases their productivity and saves them from aphids and ants.

You can not plant garlic next to cabbage, peas and legumes. This will slow down their development and minimize yields.

Spring Garlic Care

Care of spring garlic consists in timely top dressing, regular watering, weeding, and loosening of the soil.

Mulching beds with garlic can reduce watering and protects the soil from drying out in the heat.

Watering and feeding garlic

The most active growth of garlic green mass begins in May and lasts until mid-July. During this period, it is required to water the beds of garlic 3-4 times a month. In case of heavy rains and high soil moisture, watering should not be done, since an excess of moisture leads to the development of fungal and bacterial diseases of the bulbs and yellowing of the leaves. In the second half of summer, watering should be significantly reduced, or stopped altogether.

Feeding should be carried out 2 times during the growing season. The first feeding is carried out immediately after the appearance of green shoots. To prepare a solution of 2 cups of wood ash is added to 10 - 12 liters of water. You can also feed the plants with any nitrogen fertilizers. The second feeding is carried out at the beginning of the formation of bulbs. For the second feeding use humus or any mineral fertilizers.

Garlic Diseases and Pests

In order to collect a high yield of garlic it is necessary to follow all the rules of planting, crop rotation, care and prevention of plant diseases.

Fungal diseases of garlic include peronosporosis, black mold, black cervical rot, rust, green mold, black mold rot, white rot.

Garlic bulbs can be affected by the fungus during storage. Affected fruit infects healthy. The main symptom of the disease is the appearance of wet dark spots and weakness of the bulbs. On the surface of the heads there is a white bloom, which eventually turns green. Further development of the disease leads to a hollow bulb. Disease of garlic heads contributes to the increased temperature and humidity in the storage room.

There are fungal diseases that can affect garlic, not only during storage, but also on the beds.

Symptoms of the disease are:

  • rapid yellowing and drying of the leaves from top to bottom,
  • the formation of white bloom at the base of the bush.

Gradually, the plant dies.

Prevention of fungal diseases will be the observance of crop rotation, the correct precursor plants, the periodic updating of planting material, by collecting and planting aerial bulbs.

To combat the disease that has already arisen, fungicides are used - chemical preparations intended for seed treatment and the control of plant fungus. The fungicide concentrate is toxic for both humans and animals.

If preference is given to an environmentally friendly product and, there is no desire to treat plants with chemicals, use folk remedies.

You can process the plants infusion of calendula and yarrow. To do this, 50 grams of chopped green plants poured 1 liter of hot water. Insist for seven days. Before spraying the infusion is diluted in water at the rate of 1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water. The soil is treated before sowing and again, in the period of abundant development of green mass. Such treatment will be effective against white rot.

Not less problems are delivered by pests of bulbous cultures. Among the most common pests of garlic are onion flies, onion hover, sharpened onions, onions thrips, onion sneaky-moths, onion moths, onion stalk nematode, root mites, four-garlic mite.

To protect the crop, you need to take timely action when the first signs of pests appear. Plants are recommended to be treated with well-proven insecticides (chemical preparations intended to combat harmful insects), such as Actellic, Neoron, Dimethoat-400, Calypso and others. Each tool is attached detailed instructions for use.

It is important to know, when breeding bees in the dacha, that the use of insecticides can be detrimental to insects.

If you do not want to use chemicals, you can use the popular methods of pest control. Among them, we can highlight the treatment of plants with shag extract - add 250 grams of shag and 1 tablespoon of bitter red pepper to 2 liters of hot water. Insist 3 days. Then strain the tincture and dilute in 10 liters of water, adding 30 grams of liquid soap. This treatment will save the garlic from onion flies.

Adding an article to a new collection

If you plan to grow garlic in your plot, it is best to worry about it in the fall. Planting this bulbous plant in winter will provide excellent quality and large size of heads and cloves of garlic.

It is no secret that the main conditions for obtaining a rich harvest of winter garlic are in correctly determining the place for planting and observing the technology of preparing the beds. We tell how to plant garlic in the fall.

1. Planting garlic under the winter to a depth of 3-5 cm

Most often, the garlic is buried by 3-5 cm. In this case, the planting is carried out 2-3 weeks before the first frost.

In the middle lane, this period usually falls on September 20th - October 10th. In warmer regions with a mild climate this November.

How to distinguish winter garlic from spring

Naturally, the main difference is that winter garlic put under the winter, and spring - in the spring.

In addition, they can be distinguished by external signs.

  • The head consists of 4-12 large teeth covered with a pinkish-purple shell. They are arranged in a row around a solid rod.
  • Burning taste.
  • Eaten in summer and autumn, suitable for harvesting and as a seed. Not stored in winter.
  • Head without rod. Consists of 25 small teeth, arranged in several rows.
  • The taste is softer.
  • Well kept all winter until spring.

Then you can plant garlic before winter

Better if before the garlic in the garden grew tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes. Also good forerunners of garlic can be early cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin. In this case, the soil for garlic will be maximally saturated with organic fertilizers.

In places that have been occupied by potatoes or onions, planting garlic is not recommended. This is due to the fact that between these cultures there is a high risk of “exchange” of diseases (nematode, fusarium, etc.).

You should also not plant winter garlic in areas where this year manure was applied: garlic will give abundant tops, loose heads and will be less resistant to fungal diseases.

1. Preparing the soil for garlic

AT late August - early September it is necessary to fertilize the soil: 10 kg of humus, 1 cup of chalk and 2 cups of ash are added to each square meter, add 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp superphosphate. Evenly distributing on the soil all the components, it must be dig. The depth of digging should be at least 20 cm.

3. Give time for soil shrinkage

Next, the bed is left alone, until the soil has settled after digging. If there is not much rain in September, then for better shrinkage you can water the prepared bed several times.

Some gardeners in a hurry and planted garlic immediately after digging. This affects the growth and development of the plant: when the soil subsides, the garlic cloves are deep in the ground, and in spring the germination time of the shoots increases and crop yield decreases.

4. We work the soil

In order to prevent diseases of garlic, treat the ground with a 1% solution copper sulphate (1 tbsp. Substances diluted in 10 liters of water). The resulting solution using a watering can spill the entire area of ​​the beds. Then cover it with film.

On average, 2 square meters will require 1 bucket of such a solution.

On the eve of the landing of garlic scatter on the surface of the beds urea at the rate of 10-20 g per square meter and pour water over the soil.

1. Making holes

On the bed prepared in advance, we plan the place for planting winter garlic. To do this, we make a stick in the ground with a hole in the distance. 10 cm from each other. Well depth - from 3 to 15 cm depending on the method and time of landing. We already discussed this at the beginning of the article.

Row spacing - 20-25 cm.

5. Plant winter garlic

In early October, when the pea and oat sprouts reach 20 cm or more, it is time to plant garlic between their green rows.

This method of podzimney garlic planting is quite effective. Greens will hold the snow in the beds, so that in winter garlic will be covered with a snowy “fur coat”, and in the spring it will receive sufficient moisture.

Whatever technology of planting and cultivation of winter garlic you choose, we hope that next summer you will be able to get a good harvest. To do this, adopt our list of the best varieties of winter garlic.

Species of garlic

Garlic belongs to the herbaceous plants of the bulbous family. It has a round bulb with a fibrous rhizome. The leaves are narrow, lanceolate in length from 30 to 90 centimeters, grow from each other, forming a false stem. Peduncle grows separately and reaches a height of 1.5 meters, ends with an umbrella inflorescence, on which seed boxes appear after flowering.

The leaves and the bulbs themselves are suitable for food, which form from 2 to 50 cloves covered with scales. This part of garlic contains a large amount of vitamins and antioxidants and is considered the most useful and tasty. Garlic is spring and winter for planting under the snow in the fall. Growing garlic is simple and does not require a special tool.

Garlic Varieties

Spring garlic

This species is planted in open ground in early spring, and harvested in early autumn. The heads of spring garlic are small, but they are perfectly stored until the next fresh crop without losing their properties. In addition, the plants do not form arrows, and the bulbs themselves consist of small internal teeth and larger external ones. For seed material are selected large slices.

Popular varieties: Elenovsky, Gulliver, Victorio, Moscow.

Winter varieties

The difference with summer varieties is the technology of planting and the size of the bulbs - they are significantly larger in winter garlic. Used in everyday food and culinary production, stored poorly. Arrowed varieties ripen earlier and produce crops in early summer, but require additional care.

Popular names in Russia are Zubrenok, Alkor, Lyubasha, Healer, Herman and others.

Soil preparation

It is important to know that any garlic is sensitive to soil acidity. This plant prefers normal or alkaline soils, therefore it is not recommended to apply fresh organic fertilizers before planting.

Place for landing should be in a dry and well-lit place. In the shade the plant will go to the arrow, and the bulbs will remain underdeveloped. The optimal soil will be loamy with a large amount of organic matter (peat, humus, compost), which has good water-holding capacity.

For garlic, observe the following crop rotation rules:

  • It grows well after squash, potatoes, cabbage,
  • Suitable for neighborhood with bushes of raspberry, currant, gooseberry, strawberry,
  • Do not recommend planting after onions, carrots, cucumbers and tomatoes,
  • The maximum term for planting garlic in one place is 2 years in a row, the next planting in this place is not earlier than in 4 years.

Land preparation begins in the autumn, when the garden bed is cleared of weeds and fertilized with compost, leaves, and pereperemym manure. To reduce the acidity make lime, chalk solution or dolomite flour.

In the spring, everything is dug up and mineral substances are introduced in the form of superphosphate - 30 g / m 2 and potassium salt or urea at 20 g / m 2.

When the soil is depleted, ordinary furnace ash helps well, which is applied in a dry form or with a solution.

Seed preparation

Ready teeth for planting can be bought in the store, but it is better to do it yourself. To do this, select the best bulbs from last year's harvest for each type separately. The main selection criteria are the large size of the slices, their purity and the absence of mold on the surface. Even one infected clove in a bulb can cause infection to everyone else. Until the landing, the heads are not divided into segments, but stored in a dark and dry place.

The cleaned teeth are soaked before landing in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or phytofluorine, to prevent the development of fungal diseases.

You should always clean each clove of the upper shell, on which rot and microorganisms can accumulate. After that, it is immediately placed in the ground to prevent drying of the ground with the root.

Another popular way to get seeds is from arrows with inflorescences. They select the best plants and leave arrows on them until they are fully ripe. Finished is considered to be an onion (aerial bulb), which has acquired a characteristic color and is freed from the protective film. On seeds break large and healthy bulbs. This scheme is designed for two-year cultivation. In the first year they get one clove, and in the second they get a full onion.

The advantages of this method:

  • Planting material has no contact with the soil and therefore is practically sterile,
  • Not consumed a large number of quality cloves of garlic heads.

The peculiarity of any sort of garlic is the need for a long stratification - the presence of planting material in cold conditions. Therefore, winter garlic is planted just before the onset of cold weather, and spring garlic is planted in cold soil immediately after the snow has disappeared. This planting technology favors the development of a healthy plant and a bountiful harvest.

Planting winter varieties of garlic

In central Russia, the end of September is considered to be the optimal time for placing seeds in the ground. early October. If it is planted earlier, the cloves will sprout and will give shoots that will freeze and will not sprout in spring. With a late landing, they will not have time to take root and will slowly ascend.

To plant under the snow, slices are dried, then no frosts are terrible for them.

The standard distance between rows is 25 cm, between plants is 8 cm. The depth of penetration is at least 10-12 cm so that the germinating roots do not push the seed to the surface before the onset of cold weather. Good results are obtained by planting among other garden plants. Such compaction does not affect the yield. Dry ground can be watered once before the onset of cold weather.

The quantity and quality of winter garlic harvest is influenced by the amount of snow in winter. For snow retention, beds with plantings are mulched with peat, sawdust, covered with fir and spruce fir trees. It is useful to throw a little snow in the winter on the beds with garlic.

Planting spring varieties of garlic

For spring sowing, it is desirable to have a bed already prepared. The top layer of soil thaws the earliest and is already suitable for planting garlic seeds, without waiting for the soil to thaw to the full depth. Early planting is the key to a great future harvest.

There are several options for planting garlic:

  • Rows with a gap between plants of 10 cm and a distance of 20 cm to the next groove,
  • Square method with a mesh size of 15 by 15 cm,
  • Two-layer disembarkation in one hole, when the first clove deepens by 15 cm, and the second by 8 cm,
  • Two-layer planting in squares - the teeth of the lower layer are located in the center of the squares formed by the upper row of seeds.

Such nesting schemes help to get the harvest during the whole season, and the yield exceeds the standard one by 1.5-2 times.

Garlic after planting

Plant shoots need regular care and care for them. This refers to irrigation, weeding, fertilization.

It is no secret that garlic loves moist soil and abundant watering, especially during the sprouting period. At this time, he needs regular watering in the amount of 10-12 liters per square meter.

As the bulbs grow, the intensity of irrigation is reduced, and from August until the harvest, it is stopped completely. This reduces the risk of decay and spoilage of garlic heads in the ground.

Weeding and fighting with baring

Weed begin with the appearance of the first shoots. Remove not only weeds, but also the excess shoots of garlic, preventing the full formation of the main onions. Simultaneously with weeding the beds, they are loosening (it is recommended to loosen the soil after the rains).

Breaking shooters begin with their growth to 15-20 cm, if you do not plan to get the bulbs for seeds. Arrows should be broken or cut closer to the bulb. Сломанный побег продолжит свой рост, отбирая много питательных веществ у корневой системы. Эту операцию проводят регулярно.

Как выращивать чеснок из семян подробно описано в другой нашей статье: Выращивание чеснока из бульбочек (семян)

Что предпочитает озимый чеснок:

  • легкую супесчаную почву, богатую гумусом и хорошо удерживающую влагу,
  • местоположение с освещением в течение всего дня,
  • подготовленную заранее грядку, на каждый кв. m which add a bucket of humus, 25 g of nitrophoska and superphosphate.

Winter garlic is planted 2-3 cm deeper than spring, the technology and planting scheme are not significantly different. But in the preparation of planting material differences are. Like spring garlic, the largest teeth are taken for planting, but they do not need vernalization. It is also not necessary to germinate it, but it is necessary to treat it with a solution of potassium permanganate or ash extract. They do it the same way as with chives of spring garlic. Planting is best to mulch with peat or humus in case of severe frosts without snow.

In the spring, the first thing they do is loosen the beds with the sprung shoots. In order not to turn the tips of the leaves loosening, it can be combined with foliar feeding with a solution of nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of art. spoon for 10 liters of water. In cold soil, the roots do not work well and do not absorb nitrogen. It lacks fast-growing foliage, so the tips of the leaves turn yellow.

Winter varieties are divided into rifle marks and non rifle marks. The first produce the flower arrow, but form not the seeds, but air bulbs. If they are not needed for further reproduction, the arrows break out as soon as they begin to curl, leaving a stump of 1 cm. 1-2 arrows should be left as beacons. The cracking of the cover on the bulbs formed will serve as a signal for harvesting.

Soil fertilizer

The introduction of mineral and organic substances greatly affects the yield of garlic. It is important to strictly observe dosage and time of fertilizer. Preference is given to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium: superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium phosphate.

These fertilizers are applied 3 times per season - at the beginning of planting, in a month, when a small bulb is formed.

Organic fertilizers are applied with the appearance of the first leaflets. The best composition is considered a solution of mullein. It is rich in nitrogen and harmless to plants and humans. Avian and other litters are used cautiously, putting them in a rotten form or weak solutions. A large amount of nitrogen is needed only at the initial stage of growth.

Always combine fertilizing with irrigation. This contributes to the speedy absorption of nutrients by the plant.

Read more in our other article: How to feed garlic? Spring, autumn, before planting

Harvesting and storage

Digging of winter garlic begins in July and finishes spring varieties in late August - early September. Orientation should be on the yellowed lower leaves and ripened seed pods. Ripe garlic stops producing new feathers, and the inflorescences begin to crumble.

Without waiting for the foliage to wither completely, the bulbs gently break in and extract the whole plant. Cleaning is carried out in dry weather, and watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before.

Rhizomes shake off excess ground and sent to dry in a warm and well ventilated place. Drying of garlic under the rays of the sun during the daytime is allowed, and at night it is cleaned into the room.

In the process of drying the nutrients from the leaves turn into bulbs.

Dried garlic is tied up in bunches or braids and hung in a dry cool place. The optimum temperature during cold storage is 1-3 degrees, and when it is warm, it does not exceed 25 degrees.

Properly harvested and dried garlic can be stored for several years without loss of taste and vitamins.

This article has helped many gardeners to stop straining at their site and at the same time receive a generous harvest.

I never would have thought that in order to get the best harvest in my backyard during my entire dacha career, all I had to do was stop picking on the beds and trust in nature. How many can remember, every summer I spent in the country. First on the parent, and then my husband and I bought ours. From early spring to late autumn, all free time was spent on planting, weeding, garter, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, conservation and attempts to preserve the crop until next year. And so in a circle.

Put garlic cloves at a distance of 4 - 6 cm from each other. Close planting impairs crop yield. From above the bed should be sprinkled with peat or humus.

Determined the teeth in the ground, now feed them with slurry (1 part of the liquid and 6 parts of water) for good growth. When feathers grow (this is the first half of summer), fertilize it with a solution of urea and potassium chloride (10 g per 10 liters of water). Do not overdo it with watering. Enough 2 - 3 times during active leaf growth. When excess moisture is formed, a large onion with short storage properties.

Open field maintenance

Like onions, garlic has not lost its habits, which it gained while growing in its natural habitat: spring and early summer, rich in moisture from melting mountain snow, contribute to the formation of green mass. The dry season coming in summer is a signal to the formation of a bulb or head. Regime watering garlic in the beds should take into account this feature.

In the absence of rain, watering should be regular. It is made as the topsoil dries to a depth of 2-3 cm. The root layer should get wet completely. Stop watering for 3-4 weeks before harvesting, giving the head to gain weight corresponding to the variety.

Fertilizer and dressing

If garlic grows on fertile soil, and the bed before sowing was well-seasoned with nutrients, then a good harvest can be obtained without additional food. Otherwise, do not do without dressings. At different stages of development, the need for garlic in nutrients is different.

  • When increasing the green mass of the plants most need nitrogen. It can be given in the form of root dressings with ammonium nitrate or urea solutions. Fertilizer is diluted in accordance with the instructions, usually - art. spoon on the bucket. Most often practiced by two dressings: the first in the stage of emergence of shoots, the second in the formation of 3-4 leaves. On apt. m beds enough 2-3 liters of solution. If the land is fertile, one additional feeding is enough.
  • The third feeding is carried out 2 weeks after the second full complex fertilizer - art. spoon on a bucket of water. On apt. m beds pour 3-4 liters of solution.
  • The last dressing is carried out at the stage of formation of the bulb. At this time, the plants most in need of phosphorus and potassium. It is good to pour ash under them and to burst. To enrich the soil with phosphorus dissolve 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate in hot water. When cooled, poured into square meters. 3-4 liters of solution.

Each liquid dressing combined with irrigation with clean water. The next day, the beds are loosened.

It will help to get larger heads with the following agrotechnical method: 3-4 weeks before harvesting, clean the ground from the bulbs in the aisle, exposing them completely. Thus, there is freedom for growth, which increases the yield.

Garlic harvesting

With garlic harvesting it is better not to tighten it, otherwise the heads will crack and will be stored worse. A signal for cleaning is lodging shoots and yellowing of the lower leaves. The fact that it is time to harvest the crop will tell and cracked cover bag on the left beacons. Do not dig garlic ahead of time. Not mature bulbs will not only be smaller in size than they could be, but will also be stored worse. After harvesting, the garlic is dried for several hours in the garden, and then dried in the shade in a well-ventilated place.

The term harvesting of winter garlic - July, spring - September. It is removed after full yellowing of the leaves.

Breeding features

Spring garlic multiplies only vegetatively - teeth. Winter garlic can also be propagated. But the arrowed varieties have one more possibility: sowing aerial onions, the so-called bulbballs. They are formed at the end of each arrow. When growing garlic from bulbs, seed material is healed. In the first year, one-teeth grow out of them - onions consisting of one tooth. They are used for autumn planting along with traditional teeth and give a good harvest of large and healthy bulbs.

Sowing bulbs of winter garlic

They can be sown in the fall or spring. Sowing time depends on the size of the bulbhobes. Large air bulbs can be kept until spring in the room, small ones can simply dry out, and in the soil they will survive the winter perfectly. Bulbs are collected when they acquire the appropriate color for the variety, and the seed sac burst. For planting it is better to select the largest specimens. Prepare a bed for sowing in the same way as for winter garlic. The planting dates are all September and early October. Sowing scheme: 10 cm between rows and 2-3 between bulbs. They are laid out to a depth of about 3 cm. To prevent crops from freezing, it is better to mulch them. The easiest way is to sprinkle the beds with a layer of humus of 2-3 cm. Care in spring and summer for crops does not differ from that for winter garlic.

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