Spicy and medicinal herbs

Rhubarb: features of cultivation in an open ground


Rhubarb is a perennial herb belonging to the Buckwheat family. The plant was most widely distributed in Europe and the United States, but it also grows in Asia. The appearance of the plant is quite confusing. This culture is mentioned in the writings of Pedania Dioscorides, who lived in the first century of our era.

Rhubarb cultivation technology

In the XI – XII centuries, rhubarb began to be delivered to Europe from Asia via Persia. Marco Polo, who visited the kingdom of Tangut, claimed that the rhubarb root was grown and harvested in large quantities. In 1640, rhubarb root began to be supplied to the UK from China via India, and the British considered it a Cantonese, Chinese or East Indian vegetable. On the territory of modern Russia, the plant got, most likely, from the Crimean peninsula.

Springtime rhubarb is one of first vegetablesthat gets us on the table. Its taste is associated with an apple. However, you can enjoy it much earlier, as it matures in early spring at a time when the gardens only began to bloom.

The vegetable contains a large number of vitamins, acids and salts. In order to saturate the body with useful substances one must be able to grow rhubarb.

Growing from seed

Gardeners traditionally grow seedlings in greenhouses or small greenhouses. When growing seedlings, it is advisable to first place the seeds in warm water until they swell. That they sprouted they put in a wet gauze or a sacking, at times moistening it. With the advent of the first sprouts of white color, reaching a length of two mm, the planting material is dried to a friable state and then sown.

Sow seeds desirable in the grooves with a row spacing of about thirty centimeters. The soil for sowing must be wet. Together for planting seedlings cool air should not accumulate. Gardeners adhere to the exact timing of planting seeds. It is possible to start disembarking in the 3rd decade of April, however, it is better to finish the process before the end of the first decade of May.

Planting seeds deeper than three centimeters is not recommended. Consumption of planting material is approximately 4 grams per 1 m². If the seeds are germinated in advance, the first shoots will appear after 5-6 days after planting in the nursery. When the seedlings of the first two leaves appear, they are thinned out, leaving stronger specimens. The distance between the seedlings should be 15-20 centimeters.

Seeds are advised to collect from specimens that have reached maturity in 3-4 years. It is necessary to leave approximately 3 peduncles. When they become brown, they are cut off and dried in sheaves. Very soon the seeds will dry out and ripen completely and threshed them only with their hands. After drying, the seed must be dried again to twelve percent moisture. Store seeds only in linen bags in a dry, well-ventilated place.

Planting and care

Caring for seedlings is a regular weed control, loosening the soil, uniform watering of beds and feeding seedlings organic and mineral fertilizers. With the arrival of autumn, the height of the seedlings under good growing conditions will reach about 25–30 cm with the presence of four normally developed leaves.

With one square meter of plantings can be collected up to twenty copies that perezimuyut and in the spring they can be planted in a permanent place. Roots with the presence of buds, which have already begun to develop, are planted in the holes prepared in advance with a shovel. Hole layout: 100 × 100 cm or 100 × 80 cm.

Planting is necessary in such a way that there are no voids in the root system. The bud, which is at the top of rhubarb, is planted in the ground to a depth of two centimeters. If the soil moisture is insufficient, then at the end of planting, the wells are watered.

  • Tip: if you want to please yourself all year round with useful vitamins that rhubarb is rich in, grow on your own summer cottage several types of rhubarb with different ripening terms.

Seedless method

Plant under normal weather conditions and care, can grow in one place for more than ten years. Therefore, the soil for its planting should be fertile, and on the site there should be no stagnation of thawed snow or rainwater. A seedless method of growing rhubarb roots is growing rhubarb by root division or by planting the whole.

For such a cultivation method, gardeners recommend in early spring to dig up an adult four-year-old bush and divide its root so that each separate part has a root with three good buds. Then cut the pieces dried. This is done to ensure that they do not rot after planting. Put the cut parts into the soil to a specific depth, for heavy soil it is 5–6 cm, and for light (sand) 7–8 cm.

If the whole root is used, then the hole for planting should be 60 cm deep and wide. Compost is placed on the bottom of the well and then the root is planted in it. In order for a sapling to take roots faster, it is necessary to water it more often and more abundantly with settled water.

During soil loosening, ammonium nitrate is added to it. As a top dressing per 1 hectare about 0.2 grams of saltpeter is consumed. After 30 days, this process is repeated. The main advantage of the seedless method from seedlings is the preservation of all varietal traits and the earliest fruiting.

Cultivation and care after planting

In the care of planting rhubarb does not require much effort. Just as with other vegetables, it is necessary to regularly deal with weeds in the garden beds, water them evenly, make sure that the water does not stagnate and to loosen the soil between the rows to saturate the roots of the plant with oxygen.

Fertilization is carried out twice a season. This procedure is combined with irrigation. For feeding, prepare a solution of mullein: 0.5 liters of manure diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. About once every 4 years, humus or manure is brought under rhubarb bushes.

The consumption of one plant is about 1.5 buckets of finished fertilizer. In the second year after planting rhubarb, uterine stems will form. Because of this, rhubarb bushes are depleted, so the stems must be removed every year.

  • Council Never fertilize a plant in the summer, it will lead to an excess of nitrogen, which contributes to absolutely unnecessary flowering of rhubarb. The best time for feeding in early spring and late autumn.

Main varieties and varieties of rhubarb

Rhubarb is a perennial plant with a fairly large root system and the same powerful stems of a reddish hue, reaching a few meters in length. The leaves at the bottom of the plant are larger than all the others. They grow on dense strong petioles of green / red color, the length of which can reach half measure and width - 3-4 cm. This plant has a rather short vegetative period and gives a generous harvest. The food uses fleshy rhubarb petioles, which taste is something like apples. They contain high amounts of vitamin C, carotene, sugar, organic acids, pectin, potassium and calcium salts, etc.

Council Only young petioles of the plant should be used as food, because during aging they accumulate a lot of oxalic acid, not only unnecessary, but also harmful to the human body.

There are more than 50 varieties of rhubarb, most of which grow mainly in Asia.

Consider the most popular varieties (more details can be found on the photos found on the Internet):

  • Ogre-13. The variety is mid-season, very fruitful. Petioles grow quite large, with excellent taste.
  • Moscow-42. Early ripe grade of exclusively high productivity.
  • Large-stalked. Early ripe variety. Very fruitful, immune to diseases and pests, as well as low temperatures. Demanding to the ground on which it grows. The stalks have a very tender sweet flesh inside, with a slight sourness.

  • Red early. From the name it is clear that the variety matures early. Petioles grow long, strong, bright red, rolling down into green.
  • Tangun Rhubarb. Quite a large plant, the rhizome of which is often used in medicine: for the treatment of gastrointestinal diseases, gall bladder, etc.

Planting in open ground

Although rhubarb is a rather undemanding plant to the conditions of its cultivation, the soil for planting should be chosen very carefully, since to a greater extent your future harvest will depend on it. Land for planting rhubarb is not necessary to choose a very bright - and partial shade will do, but the soil should be with fertile and moist soil. Ideal - loamy soil with no groundwater, saturated with organic matter.

The first step is to prepare the soil for planting. As with any other plant, this is done in advance, since the fall. The earth is carefully dug over by one and a half of a spade bayonet with the addition of organic fertilizers and limestone (if the soil is acidic).

Plant reproduction is carried out in two ways: seedlings, or by dividing the rhizomes. Consider both options.

It is worth mentioning one nuance right away: rhubarb can be grown almost all year-round - not only in early spring, but also in summer, and even late autumn. It all depends on the selected grade.

To grow rhubarb for seedlings, seeds should be prepared in advance: you need to pour them with warm settled water for a day so that they are well swollen and then germinate for some time (3-4 days) under several layers of gauze (it is desirable to moisten it with water sometimes). Immediately after the small sprouts appear, you can start sowing carefully dried seeds into the ground.

Shallow grooves are prepared (about 3 cm deep), in which germinated rhubarb seeds are placed. The first shoots will appear in a few days. By the beginning of autumn, the seedlings will reach a height of about 25-30 cm. After wintering, they dig it up and replant it into the ground, keeping the distance between the bushes within one meter.

Growing rhubarb using rhizomes is a time-tested method that experienced gardeners love most. It is necessary to choose the largest plants with massive red petioles. The best time for planting rhubarb in this way will be autumn.

Divide the rhizome into several parts - use a very sharp knife. Each of the obtained plants should have a rather large root and at least two buds. Prepared "new" plants should be carefully dried in the sun, so that they do not start to rot in the ground. We plant the rhubarb in rows at a rather great depth - about 6-8 cm, keeping the distance between individual bushes within a meter. The ground near each of the plants must be carefully compacted.

Care for rhubarb

As mentioned earlier, rhubarb is an unpretentious plant, practically “not sick” and not afraid of pests. Moreover, rhubarb grows in such a way that practically no weeds form around it. Let us consider in more detail what kind of care is needed for rhubarb to get a good harvest.

In order for rhubarb to multiply faster, immediately after planting the plant, it is necessary to thoroughly mulch the soil. During the growing season of rhubarb, it is necessary to periodically weed rare weeds, again, to mulch the soil and water it. Since rhubarb loves moisture, it should be sipped with water at least twice a week.

Be sure to remove honey plants immediately after they begin to bloom - do not allow them to grow.

Council Should not be harvested in the year of planting rhubarb. The ideal time is the spring of the second or third year after landing. Then you can cut the young stalks for eating.

Plant nutrition and fertilizer

Rhubarb is not particularly picky about fertilizers, so two or three additional feedings for the entire vegetation period of the plant will suffice. Since rhubarb prefers organic matter, ordinary cow dung with added water is quite suitable. Since rhubarb can produce a crop for several years, then fertilizer should be periodically applied in the form of either manure or humus.

Protection against diseases and pests

Rheven is not afraid of any disease. Only occasionally can he be attacked by a buckwheat flea or rhubarb bug. Also, rhubarb can infect gray rot, downy mildew. The affected plants must be immediately removed from the ground and burned. To avoid infecting the plant with certain diseases, such as gray mold, it is important to plant it properly - not too thick.

The combination of rhubarb with other plants

There is an excellent combination of rhubarb with such plants: various types of salads and cabbage, spinach, beans, etc.

But at the same time, the plant is rather unfriendly to many other fruit and vegetable crops, for example, to members of the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes), radishes, onions, legumes (especially peas), cucumber, carrots, etc.

Our material is coming to an end. We have considered the peculiarities of growing such an unpretentious plant like rhubarb. Follow the recommendations suggested in the article and you will be able to grow a healthy plant that will give a rich harvest.

Varieties and rhubarb photos

In addition to the rhubarb "Victoria", popular with rhubarb gardeners, there are many other other varieties of different ripening terms. Most often, lovers of home greens grow the following varieties of this plant from the family Buckwheat:

  • Tukums 5. Early ripening plant with a wonderful taste and juicy flesh. Its smooth, often slightly ribbed at the bottom of the stalks differ roundness and grow to 70 cm in length. The weight of one adult stem is 130-155 grams. The third stem is closer to the base and has a rich red color.
  • Moscow 42. Another early variety with tasty juicy flesh and large petioles. Their height reaches 70 cm, thickness - 30 mm. They have a smooth surface and turn green with reddish patches. The base of the petiole is decorated with a continuous red stripe.
  • Ogre 13. A variety of medium ripening, giving a lot of juicy low-fiber petioles with delicate pulp. Their length is 60-70 cm, thickness - 30-35 mm, weight - from 150 to 620 grams. The bottom of the stems is colored red, but upwards the red color gradually changes to green.

And, of course, it is worth mentioning the rhubarb "Victoria" - the famous early ripe variety, which is often grown for decorative purposes, because it is very rich in color.

Rhubarb "Victoria"

The thickness of its petioles is 35 mm, its height is about 70 cm. They are green in color, but only up to the middle or third of the stem: below they are dotted with tiny reddish spots. They are clearly visible on the photo of rhubarb.

Rhubarb stalks

Rhubarb: planting and care in the open ground

Experienced gardeners are advised to grow two varieties at once - early-ripening and late-ripening. It is desirable that the earlier varieties had a green color of the petioles, and the later varieties had a red color.

  • Green petioles will be needed for summer salads, soups and mashed potatoes, red ones - for preparations for the winter (preserves and compotes).
  • Because of their bright color, it is good to stuff open pies with red stems: they turn out to be both tasty and elegant.

Preparing the site for sowing

As a perennial, rhubarb is able to grow in one area for about 10 years, the main thing is that the place of sowing should be suitable: wet enough, with fertile and well-breathing soil.

We are preparing a plot for sowing seeds in the fall, having dug up the earth by 1 bayonet and having every square meter of bucket of rotted manure or humus. If the soil is acidic, we turn it into a neutral one, adding 300–700 g of hydrated lime per 1 m² (the higher the acidity, the more lime is required).

In the spring, we loosen the rifled area with a rake, adding mineral fertilizers per 1 m²:

  • Urea - 30 grams,
  • Superphosphate - 60 grams,
  • Potassium chloride - 30 grams.

Now you can start sowing the seeds of rhubarb.

Sowing seeds in the ground

We sow rhubarb seeds by the following technology:

  • Place the seeds in gauze, folded in a few words and moisten it with water, adding moisture as it dries, until millimeter sprouts appear from the seeds.
  • We take the seeds out of the gauze and lightly dry them so that it is convenient to sow.
  • Cut into the area of ​​the groove no more than 2 cm deep.
  • Gently spill them with warm water.
  • Sow achenes and slander them with earth.

After five days, rhubarb shoots will appear. When the plants grow on a pair of true leaves, we thin the seedlings, leaving the plants stronger. The distance between them should be 25 cm. From these plants you get excellent seedlings for subsequent transplantation of rhubarb to a permanent place.

Seedlings care

Before growing bushy rhubarb from seeds, it is important to provide seedlings with proper care:

  • Regularly pour young rhubarb with warm water.
  • We saw and loosen the plot.
  • Every month we feed the seedlings with complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter rich in nitrogen.
Care for rhubarb seedlings

With good care of the seedlings in the fall will form developed strong bushes. После зимовки, в марте либо апреле (это зависит от климатических особенностей местности) производим дальнейшую посадку ревеня и осуществляем уход за ним.

Между растениями, пересаженными на постоянные места, должно быть расстояние как минимум 1 метр, иначе им будет тесно. Также важно не заглублять верхушечные почки: засыпать их грунтом максимум на 1,5 см.

Now from the transplanted bushes get strong plants with lush green and plump stems, which can be harvested for the winter and add to various dishes.

How to grow rhubarb by vegetative method

This technique is used if you need to expand or update the planting of rhubarb. Propagate it like this:

  • Before transplanting, we take healthy bushes that are 4 years old (old bushes do not give plants with rich greens) and cut the roots with a knife into several parts: there should be two growth buds on each seedling.
  • We make plots with a diameter of 60 cm every 100 cm from each other on the selected and prepared site.
  • Put in each hole rotted manure or compost - 1 handful.
  • We place the seedlings in the hole and cover it with earth, tightly ramming it, but not falling asleep to the growth buds.
  • Abundantly water planting for 7 days, so that they quickly take root.

It is best to engage in vegetative reproduction of rhubarb bushes in the first in March or mid-October.

Fundamentals of agricultural engineering

Starting a conversation about culture is most logical with the answer to the question of how to plant rhubarb so that it grows safely. Cultivation of rhubarb is carried out for human consumption, as well as for medical or decorative purposes.

Despite the fact that rhubarb is a rather unpretentious plant in terms of growing conditions, it is recommended to select the soil for planting with the utmost care. The future harvest will depend on the correctness of the choice made. The ideal land for rhubarb is a fertile, rich in organic matter loam without groundwater. Before planting the soil requires mandatory preparation. When autumn comes, it should be dug up, add organic fertilizer. In the spring you can start planting.

The sun is an optional condition for successful cultivation of the crop. The plant is quite possible to sting. The best way for him to half-shade.

Landing region for rhubarb is insignificant. This may be Siberia, the Urals, the Moscow region or any southern regions.

Reproduction of culture

Any agricultural technician will say that rhubarb can be propagated in two main ways:

  • from seeds,
  • dividing the bush into rhizomes.

It is easiest to grow rhubarb by dividing the bush into rhizomes, because when using seeds, some varietal characteristics of the crop (if any) can be lost. In addition, the cultivation of rhubarb from the seeds - rather time-consuming process. Planting material requires a long cold stratification method.

Important! The duration of the procedure for stratification of rhubarb seeds is at least two months.

For reproduction and subsequent planting of rhubarb on the site usually use four-year shoots. They need to dig in the middle of autumn. The essence of the procedure is to obtain viable rhizomes, from which rhubarb will then multiply. Each root must have at least two buds and a pair of roots. The mass of the root crop selected for breeding should be at least 250 grams. It is necessary to divide the roots so that the area of ​​cuts in the end was minimal. After cutting, before transplanting, the roots must be held in the shade. This is necessary in order to cut the place slightly dried.

The soil for planting rhubarb should be dug up on the spade bayonet and fertilized with humus or compost. In order for the roots to rise better, they should be squeezed as tightly as possible with earth and watered abundantly.

Sowing seeds

If earlier the crop was not grown on the plot, the question: how to plant rhubarb with seeds is particularly important. Rhubarb can be planted in early spring or autumn. Winter and cold culture are not scary. The plant differs in an excellent indicator frost resistance.

Council A few months before planting the site must be re-dug and make humus. It is necessary to fertilize the soil in the ratio of 3 buckets of top dressing per square meter.

Rhubarb does not require transplants. The plant lives perfectly in the same place for at least 15 years. First, seeds are germinated, stratified, and only then planted. For planting, the seed material is densely laid out in the pre-excavated grooves 1.5 cm deep. The correct gap between the grooves is about 20 cm. after the emergence of shoots. Before the onset of autumn, the saplings are watered, loosened, weeded and fed. In September, top dressing and watering finish and rhubarb, planted from seeds, move to a permanent place of growth.

Thus, the answer to the question of how to properly grow rhubarb from seed is not as difficult to find as it may seem at first glance.

Planting seedlings

Some gardeners, wondering how to plant rhubarb, ultimately prefer seedlings. Seedlings can be grown in nurseries or in open field. If you buy it ready, it is recommended to give preference to trusted sellers who can guarantee the fact that they offer a really good seed. Unfortunately, there are cases when seedlings that already have a disease are on sale.

Sprouting and planting seeds

For a crop like rhubarb, planting and caring in the open field begins with calculations. For the correct marking places for the holes usually use a measuring rod. Depending on the size of the seedlings, they put it under a stake, additionally using a garden trowel or a fork. If the seedlings were grown in breeding grounds or in nutrient cubes, they are characterized by a well-developed and extensive root system. In this case, it is preferable to use a scoop.

Important! When planting seedlings should ensure that the wells were wide enough. Planting seedlings need to the same depth at which it grew earlier in the nutritional cube or nursery.

In order for the plant to grow peacefully, in no case should the soil be compacted strongly. This will lead to a slower growth of the root system and worsen the survival rate of rhubarb. Planting rhubarb seedlings should be carried out at the same depth. In order to improve survival rate, it is recommended to press the soil around the plants. Remove weeds should immediately after they appear. For the first year of rhubarb growth, it is necessary to soil the soil 3-4 times and fertilize the plant for the same number of times.

Care and its features

To get a decent harvest of such a culture as rhubarb, care is required appropriate. In order for the cultivation to proceed without problems, the plant necessarily requires additional feeding, irrigation, loosening and watering. On adult plants, it is important to timely remove the flower stalks. Only the correct cultivation of the culture will produce a result at the end of the season.

Weeding and loosening

Loosening and weeding are two procedures that are simply vital to the plant in the process of growth. These two procedures allow the roots to provide the necessary amount of oxygen and moisture. Especially strongly require such care young, not yet entrenched shoots. To loosen the soil is necessary after each watering and rain. Plants that are only planted in the garden should be treated especially carefully, producing only superficial loosening. As soon as the plant becomes healthy and strong, you can begin to loosen it more deeply.

Watering and fertilizer

Growing a crop usually does not require an answer to the question of how to transfer the rhubarb to any other place. The plant does not need this procedure. But the problem of irrigation and fertilizer is quite acute. Without these procedures, there can be no talk at the end of the season. Water the rhubarb regularly, especially if the cottage is located in a region with a dry summer. But the need for watering does not mean that it is permissible to re-moisten the soil. Best to stick with the golden mean. The best option to maintain soil moisture is mulching.

Answering the question of how and how to feed rhubarb in spring, organic compositions should be mentioned: ashes, bird droppings and cow dung dissolved in water.

If the rhubarb is planted from seeds, it will need to be fertilized twice: immediately after germination and three weeks after the final thinning of the planting was carried out. As for adult plants, they are fed in early spring, when the leaves had not yet grown. Re-feeding is carried out after the first harvest, and the last - before the onset of autumn.

Important! Organic fertilizers are applied at inter-row intervals no more than once every three years.

Pest control

Most gardeners are well aware that rhubarb is one of the few crops that is highly resistant to diseases and all sorts of pests. Very rarely in rhubarb recorded cases of powdery mildew, root rot or askohitozom. From insects harm the culture can rhubarb bug or buckwheat fleas.

The most effective in the fight against pests and diseases is prevention. It consists of the following activities:

  • cut and completely remove diseased or pest-affected leaves,
  • timely remove weeds,
  • do not forget to periodically loosen the soil,
  • Do not forget to dig up the soil for the winter on the bayonet of the shovel.

If the infection has already occurred, a one-percentage bordeaux mixture is used to fight fungal diseases. For defeat by a rhubarb bug, an effective prophylactic is a forty percent phosphamide, which should be applied to the soil at the end of each growing season.

Note. Aggressive chemicals are not strongly recommended for use with rhubarb. This will protect themselves from possible poisoning by toxic substances that tend to accumulate in the culture.

If the defeat is widespread, and chemistry cannot be done without, it should be used with utmost care. To a lesser extent, chemicals are applied to areas with young annual seedlings. If we are talking about adult plants, they should be used only in late autumn before winter comes.


Having dealt with rhubarb culture how to grow and care, it's time to learn how to properly collect a plant, the benefits of which are indisputable. The collection period of rhubarb is quite wide - from the beginning to the end of the summer. Annual shoots are best not to cut. It will weaken them. But to cut the stems from the shoots of the second season is quite acceptable. Choose larger specimens.

Rhubarb stalks are considered ripe when their width is up to 2.5 cm. To the touch they should be hard enough, have a dark pink or maroon shade.

Rip off the stem by twisting. This should be done as close as possible to the base of the shoot.

Important! In no case should after the harvest be left on the plant broken stalks. They may become infected. Flowering stems should be removed as they appear.

Rhubarb is widely used in cooking. From it prepare homemade preparations for the winter, pies, compotes and more. In this regard, it is not surprising that, despite the recommendation to use rhubarb stalks as soon as possible after harvest, many gardeners try to keep them longer.

Storing the plant is possible in the refrigerator in a plastic bag for three weeks. In addition, they can be frozen for a longer period of time.

Rhubarb is a fairly popular and demanded plant in our country, which can be found in many garden plots. It is delicious, wholesome. In the case of a crop such as rhubarb cultivation and care do not require special experience.

If you have not yet had time to discover this amazing culture for yourself, we highly recommend doing it. The result will surpass all even the wildest expectations, and there will be practically no problems in the process of growing.


  • 1. Listen to the article (soon)
  • 2. Description
  • 3. Sowing on seedlings
    • 3.1. When to plant
    • 3.2. Seedling care
  • 4. Growing from seed
    • 4.1. Landing
    • 4.2. Watering
    • 4.3. Top dressing
    • 4.4. Wintering
  • 5. Pests and Diseases
    • 5.1. Diseases
    • 5.2. Pests
  • 6. Types and varieties
  • 7. Properties: harm and benefit
    • 7.1. Beneficial features
    • 7.2. Contraindications

Rhubarb plant - description

Rhubarb has a dark-brown, branching woody rhizome with a diameter of 4-6 cm, overgrown with small roots. Rhubarb root lives 12 years or more. The above-ground stalks are straight, thick, hollow, slightly fibrous, annuals. Basal large leaves of rhubarb whole, toothed or palmate-lobed, often undulating along the edge, located on long polyhedral or cylindrical petioles, equipped with wide sockets at the base. Stem leaves are much smaller than rosette ones. The upright weakly branched stalk of rhubarb can reach a height of 2.5 m. High, straight, red-spotted peduncles end in paniculate inflorescences consisting of small white, greenish, pink or red bony-hollow flowers, which in the case of underdevelopment can be single-sex. Rhubarb blooms in late May or early June. The fruit of rhubarb is a triangular nutlet of a red-brown shade, 7-10 cm long. In terms of healing, petioles of leaves and rhubarb root are valuable.

When planting rhubarb seedlings.

Growing rhubarb from seeds is a troublesome business, and you will receive your first harvest only in a few years, but in order to provide yourself with tasty and healthy vegetables for many years, it makes sense to try. Rhubarb seeds can be purchased at agro shops or via the Internet from reputable manufacturers or sellers. 4 days before sowing, the seeds are dipped into water at room temperature for swelling for 10 hours, then they are disinfected for an hour in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, transferred to a damp cloth and waited for the seeds to wilt.

Sow rhubarb for seedlings in early April in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm. Before the emergence of the seedlings, the substrate in the pots must be kept slightly moist.

Care for seedlings of rhubarb.

Seeds begin to germinate in 2-3 weeks, and when the seedlings appear, the crops should be immediately moved to a bright place. Care of seedlings consists of regular watering, loosening the substrate and dressing with regularity once every 10 days. Seedlings are cared for all summer, and 90-100 days after planting, that is, in August or early September, seedlings are planted on a garden bed so that they can take root before winter.

Planting rhubarb in the ground.

Since rhubarb plant is cold-resistant, its seeds can be sown immediately in the garden, bypassing the stage of growing seedlings. When to plant rhubarb in open ground? Planting rhubarb seeds is carried out in early spring (in March or even in February) or in mid-October.

The plant is distinguished not only by cold resistance, but also by its unpretentiousness, therefore planting rhubarb and caring for it do not imply any difficulties. It can be planted in a remote corner of the garden in the sun or in partial shade, under the canopy of fruit trees. The soil of the plant prefers moist and permeable, with a high content of humus and acidity at 4.5 pH. A few months before planting, a site for rhubarb is dug up with humus at the rate of 3 buckets of fertilizer per m². At one place rhubarb can grow 15 years or more.

How to plant rhubarb on a garden bed in open field? First, the seeds are germinated, as described above, and then they are densely laid out in furrows 1-1.5 cm deep, located at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other on the seed bed, and sealed. If the sowing is carried out before winter, the surface of the bed is mulched mulch in a layer of 1 cm thick from leaf humus, garden compost or other organic material. When spring sowing plot mulch after the emergence of shoots. When growing rhubarb seedlings, mulch is placed immediately after transplanting seedlings into open ground.

Whenever you sow seeds - in early spring or in October - seedlings will appear in the garden in spring, but keep in mind that germination of rhubarb seeds is rather low. In the second half of May, when 1-2 true leaves develop at shoots, the seedlings are planted according to the 10x10 cm scheme. How to grow rhubarb in the open field? Until the autumn, the care of seedlings consists in regular watering, loosening the soil around them, weeding and feeding with complex mineral fertilizer once every 10 days. At the beginning of autumn, fertilizing and watering are stopped, and rhubarb from seeds is transplanted to a permanent place, although many gardeners believe that saplings better grow in shkolka for another year. When planting seedlings in a permanent place, keep in mind that one plant will need a food area of ​​at least 1 m².

Watering rhubarb.

Large stalks of rhubarb can be obtained only with regular and abundant watering. During the season, rhubarb is watered 3-4 times, consuming 30-40 liters of water per m² plot. The more abundant and more frequent watering, the less in the petioles of oxalic acid. When the flower stalks appear on the rhubarb, they are cut, because the development of floral arrows slows the growth of leaves and the development of petioles. После полива желательно рыхлить вокруг растений почву и удалять сорную траву.

Подкормка ревеня.

Подкармливают ревень 1-2 раза за сезон жидкими органическими или комплексными минеральными удобрениями, например, размешав пол-литра коровяка в 10 л воды. Кроме того, каждые 4-5 лет под кусты вносят по 1-2 ведра перегноя или навоза. Ревень весной лучше подкармливать минеральными удобрениями, а подкормки органикой лучше проводить осенью.

Зимовка ревеня.

In summer, perennial rhubarb rejuvenates, cutting off leaves with cuttings and leaving only 2-3 leaves to nourish the plant, but by the autumn the bush again becomes covered with leaves, a third of which can be used for food, and 2/3 leaves are left on the bush so that the plant can prepare winter In winter, rhubarb bushes are covered with fallen leaves or covered with dry earth. In the spring, the shrub is free from covering so that the plant can grow leaves.

Diseases of rhubarb.

Not so long ago, it was believed that rhubarb is immune to both infections and harmful insects, but with poor care even this plant can get sick. Most often, rhubarb affects ramulariasis, ascochitis, powdery mildew and rust.

Ramulariosis: signs of this fungal disease look like red-brown spots with a dark red border on rhubarb leaves. With the development of the disease, the spots grow in size and merge with each other, and their middle gradually fades. In dry weather, the fabric inside the spots cracks and spills out, and during the wet period the spots are covered with a powdery coating of white or silver-gray color. The disease is progressing in thickened plantings, especially in warm, wet weather. As a preventive measure, plant residues should be removed from the site in the fall, after which the surface should be treated with one-percent Bordeaux mixture or any other copper-containing preparation.

Mealy dew - this disease can be recognized by a whitish loose coating on the leaves of a plant, which eventually becomes dense and brown. The disease manifests itself in early summer. As a result, the affected areas stop growing, turn black and die off, the inflorescences do not form the ovaries, and the plants lose their winter hardiness. To combat powdery mildew, you need the same methods as ramulariasis. The best drugs for this infection are biofungicides Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz and the like.

Rust - this is also a fungal infection that forms pustules on rhubarb leaves, from which rusting powder spills out when cracked - fungal spores. In the affected plant the metabolism is disturbed, the growth is reduced. Diseased leaves must be removed, and the plant treated with Topaz drug 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days.

Ascohitosis forms on the leaves large brick-ocher spots of irregular elongated shape. Fabrics in these places crack, dry out and crumble. The infection can be eradicated by rhubarb treatment with one percent Bordeaux liquid.

However, since plants have the ability to accumulate poisons and toxins in stalks, leaves, petioles and roots, try to refrain from using fungicidal preparations. It is better to use against the fungal diseases infusion of mullein. It is prepared this way: one third of a bucket of fresh cow dung is poured with cold water and, stirring occasionally, insist for three days. Then the composition is filtered through a dense fabric, diluted with water at a ratio of 1:10 and treated with rhubarb with this composition the closest in the evening after sunset.

Pests of rhubarb.

Among pests for rhubarb, caterpillars of the heartworm, onion nematodes and rhubarb weevil are dangerous.

Eggs scoops they hibernate around rhubarb bushes; in spring, white-white or yellow caterpillars up to 45 mm long crawl out of them, which take root in the stem and petioles and feed on their flesh. Damaged tissue dries out, and the caterpillars crawl into still not damaged stalks. To get rid of these pests, you need to immediately cut out the damaged stems and stalks, as well as destroy the weeds, near which the scoops lay eggs.

Rhubarb Weevil - bug up to 6 mm long, the elytra of which is covered with light gray and brown scales. Weevils feed on rhubarb leaves, and females lay eggs in leaf stalks. Legless, dirty-yellow larvae that appear on the leaves live on the leaves, feed on them and pupate into them. Scare the weevils can be treated with rhubarb solution of 5 g of potassium permanganate in 10 liters of water.

Onion nematodes - microscopic worms that live in stalks, petioles and rhubarb leaves. From them there is a softening and swelling of plant tissues, from which it dies. They have not yet come up with effective measures to combat nematodes, so the affected specimens should be removed and burned, and in the area where these pests are found, nothing can be grown for at least two years.

Altai Rhubarb (Rheum altaicum),

or compact (rheum compactum = rheum orientale) - A plant reaching a height of 30 to 120 cm, with a thick hollow stem and a very thickened root. The rosette leaves of this plant are long-petiolate, almost rounded or rounded-ovate, deeply heart-shaped at the base, somewhat wavy or flat, reaching 60 cm across. The top leaves are small, much smaller and located on the stem on short petioles,

Tangut (Rheum tanguticum)

- perennial up to 2.5 m in height with a spreading crown up to 150 m in diameter, consisting of large finger-separate leaves on long petioles. The flowers of this species are greenish-yellow, gathered in panicles up to 50 cm long,

Common Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum),

or rhubarb wavy, or Siberian rhubarb different curly leaves that are very wrinkled at an early age, but as soon as they bloom, they become wavy, as if decorated with ruffles along the edges. The length of the leaves is about 70, and the width is about 50 cm. This type of rhubarb is very beautiful in flowering, when over the rosette stand on the peduncles up to one and a half meters of the panicle of inflorescences, consisting of yellowish flowers,

Rhubarb palate (Rheum palmatum)

comes from the mountainous regions of West and South China. It is a perennial with a large root and bare, reddish, ribbed stems up to 2 m high. Giant leaves in the rosette are five to seven blade, heart-shaped at the base, about 80 cm in diameter. Stem leaves almost sessile, alternate. The color of the opening leaves is purple, then the tone becomes almost purple, but already in June the leaves become dark green in color, and only the underside of the leaf plate remains reddish. Greenish-white, pinkish or reddish flowers are gathered in panicles up to half a meter in length. The plant has been cultivated since 1763. Atrosanginium, with purple leaves, petioles and stems,

Rhubarb (Rheum officinale)

originally from Tibet. It is a perennial up to 2.5 m in height with very large three-four-lobed green leaves reaching a length of one and a half meters, despite the fact that the length of the petioles is approximately 1 m. . In European culture, view from 1871,

Noble Rhubarb (Rheum nobile),

occurring in nature at an altitude of 4.5 thousand meters, it reaches a height of 2 m, its rosette is formed from bare, large, ovoid leaves. Yellow-green panicles practically sit on a flat outlet.

In addition to the described species, rhubarb Maximovich, Ribez, Black Sea, Alexandra and Delavey are grown in culture.

Varieties of rhubarb garden ripening are divided into early, mid-ripening and late. The best early grades include:

  • Altai Dawns - a variety with a spreading rosette of large leaves on long red petioles weighing from 80 to 120 g of excellent taste,
  • Victoria Rhubarb - a series of early ripe fruit varieties with large or medium-sized compact rosettes consisting of ovate or broadly ovate leaves on light green with a red base of slightly ribbed petioles from 33 to 50 cm long,
  • Cocktail - resistant to diseases and cold variety with red to mid length petioles 65-70 long and about 3 cm thick. The flesh of the petioles is light green, often with pink spots, sweet-sour taste,
  • Stubborn man - a variety with a high sprawling rosette of leaves with large light green anthocyanic colourations at the base of the petioles up to 55 cm long and weighing up to 180 g,
  • Moscow 42 - fruitful, resistant to stalking, a variety with wavy, smooth, large leaves on thick and long slightly ribbed petioles with pale green flesh,
  • Zaryanka - variety with a sprawling rosette of leaves on beautiful cherry petioles up to 45 cm long with sour-sweet greenish-pink flesh.

From mid-season varieties of rhubarb are most often grown:

  • Obski - cold-resistant moisture-loving variety with a rosette of large, weakly corrugated green leaves with a diameter of up to 120 cm. Petioles are long, thick, dark pink at the base, with delicate sweet-sour pulp,
  • Tukums 5 - a variety with large dark green, wavy leaves at the edges on rounded light green with crimson pigmentation petioles up to half a meter long,
  • Ogre 13 - fruitful variety, resistant to bolting, up to 80 cm high with a compact rosette of large dark green leaves. The petioles are slightly ribbed, dark red at the base, up to 70 cm long and about 4 cm in diameter, some reach a mass of 350 g. The petiole pulp is distinguished by its high palatability,
  • Candied - variety with large broad petioles weighing about 200 g with pinkish flesh of excellent taste,
  • Cyclone - variety with rapidly growing leaves of medium size on large green petioles of moderate thickness with tasty sour-sweet pulp.

The popular late-ripening varieties of rhubarb include:

  • Gigantic - disease-resistant variety with long, fragile dark red petioles of excellent taste,
  • Goliath series - high-yielding varieties of canning purpose, representing large, tall and sprawling plants with broad blistering leaves with wavy edges on grooved green petioles, sometimes colored, sometimes speckled at the base. The flesh of these varieties is green, dense,
  • Red latex - compact plants of medium height with leaves wavy at the edges on dark or bright red petioles up to 50 cm long and up to 3 cm thick with red or pink-red flesh.

Useful properties of rhubarb.

They eat rhubarb stalks and its young leaves, which have a refreshing sour taste due to the presence of citric and malic acid. Also in the petioles are carbohydrates, vitamins C, PP, group B, fiber, pectins, carotene, salts of magnesium, calcium, potassium and phosphorus. The use of rhubarb has a positive effect on the work of the intestines and kidneys. It is shown to people with low acidity, is effective in the treatment of purulent formations, wounds, burns, colds, sinusitis and rhinitis.

Rhubarb contains biologically active substances that prevent the development of cardiovascular diseases, strengthen myocardial muscle, cure heart failure and significantly reduce the risk of stroke.

The healing properties of rhubarb have been known for a long time. Rhizome preparations, which in large doses act as a laxative agent, and in small ones as an astringent, have more healing properties. Rhizome preparations are prescribed for constipation, gas accumulation, intestinal atony. However, people suffering from hemorrhoids should not be taken. In small doses, the preparation of rhizomes is taken as a protivopolozhny (at a dosage of 0.2 to 0.8 g) and choleretic (from 0.1 to 0.5 g) means. The preparation of rhizomes in small doses prescribed for tuberculosis and anemia as a general tonic. For the same purpose, you can drink half a glass of rhubarb juice 3 times a day. Outer rhubarb is used to get rid of white spots on the skin caused by vitiligo.

In folk medicine, laxatives and rhubarb teas are popular. Use the plant also in the form of powder, syrup, infusion, decoction or tincture of alcohol or wine. The pharmacy can buy rhubarb in the form of powder, tablets, extract or alcohol tincture.

Rhubarb - contraindications.

Since rhubarb contains acids that promote the formation of stones in the kidneys and bladder, those suffering from gallstone and urolithiasis are better to refuse from rhubarb. It is not recommended to use rhubarb sick gastritis with high acidity and pancreatitis, and since rhubarb contributes to blood thinning, it is contraindicated for hemorrhoids and bleeding.

Further care for rhubarb plantings

After transplanting seedlings or seedlings obtained by the vegetative method, we provide plants with good care, consisting in the following procedures:

  • Regular watering. The rhubarb bushes do not tolerate droughts, and therefore water them abundantly and regularly, especially during the period of green mass growth. At this time, each plant should receive 25 liters of water for one watering. If there is not enough water, the stalks will grow coarse and not juicy.
  • Loosening and weeding control. With the appearance we weed weed and immediately loosen the soil under the bushes so that the roots receive enough oxygen.
  • Feeding procedures. Every three years at the beginning of October, we add one and a half buckets of organic fertilizers per square meter to the ground between the rhubarb bushes. In March, we feed the bushes with complex mineral fertilizers.
  • Pruning. In the second year of life and in the future, we cut off the uterine rhubarb stalks of rhubarb: they take away the strength of the plants, not allowing them to grow good petioles and foliage. We do the same with flower stalks if rhubarb is not grown for decorative purposes.
  • Protection against diseases and insects. Usually rhubarb overcome rhubarb bugs and rhubarb elephants, it is affected by buckwheat fleas, gray rot or spotting. We treat bushes with insecticides and other chemicals, but only when we harvest the last crop this year.

Regularly watered and fed plants, not damaged by diseases and pests, quickly grow petioles and greens.

How to grow rhubarb by vegetative method

How to collect rhubarb

In the second and third year of life, plants from one bush collect up to 2.5 kg of stems. In the future, productivity is only increasing, and already 5-6 kg of selected petioles will be collected from the plant.

We start to harvest in early April, choosing stems with a diameter of 1.5 cm. Do not cut them, and unscrew at the very bottom.

We continue to collect tasty raw materials several times, carrying out the last procedure 45 days before the end of the growing season, otherwise rhubarb will not have time to gain strength for the winter.

Following the tips on planting and caring for a plant such as rhubarb, which can be grown in one place for up to ten years, we will get an excellent harvest of petioles for different culinary purposes. Red stems make delicious mousses, jams, jellies, compotes and stuffings for buns and pies, green petioles - cold soups, stews from vegetables, salads and mashed potatoes.

Brief description of cultivation

  1. Sowing. Sowing seeds in open soil is carried out in the first days of October or in February – March. And they are sown on seedlings in the first days of April, while the plants are planted in open soil in August or in the first days of September.
  2. Illumination. It grows well in a shaded and sunny place, as well as on a plot with diffused light.
  3. Priming. A suitable soil should pass well and be wet, and a large amount of humus should also be included in it. The optimum pH is 4.5.
  4. Watering. Watering must be plentiful and systematic. During the season, this procedure is carried out 3 or 4 times, while 3-4 buckets of water are consumed per 1 square meter.
  5. Fertilizer. During the summer period, rhubarb must be fed 1 or 2 times, for this purpose organic matter or mineral fertilizer is used. Once every 4–5 years, 1-2 buckets of humus should be added to each bush. It is recommended to feed rhubarb with organic fertilizers in autumn, and mineral fertilizers in spring.
  6. Breeding. The division of the rhizome and seed method.
  7. Harmful insects. Caterpillars of the heartworm, onion nematodes and rhubarb weevil.
  8. Diseases. Ramulariosis, askokhitoz, mealy dew and rust.
  9. Properties. The composition of such a plant includes biologically active substances, so it has healing properties.

Features of rhubarb

The woody branching rhizome of rhubarb of a dark-brown color in diameter reaches 40–60 mm, on its surface there are many small roots. The lifespan of the root of such a plant is 12 years and more. Thick, hollow, straight, slightly frosty stems are annuals. Large basal leaf plates are solid, finger-blade or toothed, they are often wavy along the edge. Foliage has long petioles, which are cylindrical or multifaceted, at their base are wide sockets. Rosette leaf plates are much larger than stem ones. The stem is slightly branchy and erect, its height is about 250 cm. There are a lot of red spots on the surface of direct tall peduncles, they end in paniculate inflorescences, which include bluff small flowers of pale green, red, white or pink color. If the flowers grow underdeveloped, they can be same-sex. Flowering is observed in the last days of May or the first - June. The fruit is a brownish-red triangular nutlet, length from 70 to 100 mm. The medicinal properties of the root of such a plant, and also its leaf scapes.

Characteristics of rhubarb

Highly productive vegetable, rhubarb, is a perennial plant of buckwheat family. It was introduced to Europe from East Asia. Хорошо переносит холод и дает высокую урожайность. Растение имеет мясистые корни и прямостоячий стебель, высота которого может доходить до 3 м. Крупные листья ревеня сидят на толстых длинных черешках, которые употребляются в еду. Для хорошего и качественного урожая при выращивании ревеня необходима влажная почва, но нет потребности в постоянном свете.

Ревень по своим питательным свойствам аналогичен яблокам. Minerals and vitamins contained in plants, pectin and organic acids are beneficial for humans. This vegetable has diuretic and laxative properties and is used to prevent vomiting, cleaning the liver and excreting bile. In May, when there are no vegetables and fruits yet, rhubarb can already be used in salads, for the preparation of compotes, jelly, kvass and wine.

There are several varieties of rhubarb differing in the quality of stalks (red and green) and ripening time:

  • Moscow 42,
  • Victoria,
  • Tukums 5,
  • Orgi 13,

To use a vegetable longer, it should be in the garden, plant at least two varieties with different ripening terms.

Rhubarb can be propagated in two ways:

  • through seedlings grown from seed
  • dividing the roots

Vegetative breeding method

For vegetative propagation, use adult 3-4 year old healthy plants. Old bushes for breeding is not recommended. Having carefully dug a bush, they cut the root into several parts with a sharp knife, each of which should have at least 1-2 growth buds. The resulting damage to the rhizome is better to sprinkle with wood ash or activated carbon powder. You can not dig up the bushes and divide them directly in the ground with a shovel. The separated parts of the plant are planted in spacious holes, covered with earth and pressed tightly, the growth bud should remain on the surface. It is advisable to pour a little bit of humus or compost into the prepared wells before planting.

The separation of the bush is carried out in the spring early, when the soil warms slightly, or in mid-autumn, so that the plant can take root before the onset of cold weather.

Propagation by seeds is used for growing a new variety or planting for the first time.

From seeds, rhubarb is grown through seedlings, which are obtained from seeds previously soaked before swelling. Germinate seeds under wet gauze or a rag, moistening it periodically. After the emergence of sprouts about 2 cm in length, the seeds are dried and then sown. Planted seeds in a pre-moistened soil. On the fourth or fifth day after sowing, the first sprouts of rhubarb can be seen. The depth of instillation should not exceed 3 cm. When growing rhubarb, the flow rate is up to 4 grams of seeds per square meter. Rhubarb is planted in rows at a distance of 25 cm. After the leaves appear on the shoots, they are thinned. The distance between shoots should be approximately 20 cm.

In the future, care for seedlings is watering, if necessary, weeding, loosening, fertilizing fertilizer. In the fall, seedlings are obtained with a height of up to 30 cm with three to four leaves.

After winter, seedlings are dug up for planting in the wells at a distance of up to 1 m. The soil should fit snugly to the roots of the planting material. In this case, the upper kidney is recommended to lower under the ground no more than two centimeters. If the soil is not wet, then planting material is watered. Subsequently, the rhubarb is watered (if necessary) and the arrows are removed. The soil is loosened and weeded. Fertilizing is desirable to get a good harvest. Fertilize the soil every 3-4 years, introducing 1-2 buckets of organic matter per square meter.

Rhubarb can be damaged by pests (elephant, flea, bug) and diseases (ascochitis, gray mold).

Pesticides against diseases and pests can be used only after collecting cuttings for food.

In order not to weaken the plant and get a stable crop for a long time, the crop (petioles) should be collected from the second year after planting. Harvesting is done several times during the season. The cuttings are broken out at the base, when their thickness reaches more than 1.5 cm, and the length is 30 cm. In the first three years, the crop is 1-2 kg of petioles, and in the following years - up to 6 kg from one bush.

Sowing rules

To begin with, seed material needs to be prepared and germinated, doing it in the same way as when sowing rhubarb on seedlings (see above). Then the seeds are densely spread in the prepared grooves, the depth of which is 10–15 mm, the distance between them should be from 20 to 25 centimeters. Then the seeds are buried. If podzimny sowing is performed, the garden bed should be mulched with garden compost, leaf humus or other organic material, and the layer thickness should be about 10 mm. If the sowing was done in the spring, then the bed will need to be mulched only after seedlings appear. You also need to mulch the bed and immediately after transplanting seedlings into open ground.

Although it is in spring, although during the wintering season, the first seedlings can be seen only in spring, and it should be taken into account that the seed material of such a plant has low germination. From the middle to the end of May, when 1 or 2 true leaf plates are formed on the plants, the plant should be planted, following the 10 x 10 centimeters scheme.

How to water

To keep the petioles large, the bushes must be watered systematically and abundantly. During one season, such a culture is watered 3 or 4 times, while 3 to 4 buckets of water are consumed per 1 square meter of land. The less often and less irrigation there will be, the greater the amount of oxalic acid will be contained in the petioles.

After the stalks are formed on the bush, they should be removed. The fact is that due to the growth of peduncles, foliage and petioles develop and grow much more slowly. When rhubarb is watered, it is recommended to loosen the surface of the soil around it, at the same time tearing up all the weeds.


Ramularosis is a fungal disease, spots of brownish-red color appear on the surface of foliage of the affected shrub, bordering a dark red color. Over time, the spots become larger, and their merging with each other is observed, while their middle is gradually turning pale. During a drought, cracks and rashes of tissue are observed inside the spots, and in wet weather a powdery appearance of a gray-silver or white color appears on their surface. The disease develops most actively during thickening of plantings, especially in wet and hot weather. In order to prevent the site in the autumn, it is necessary to clean the plant residues, then its surface should be sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (1%) or other means, which includes copper.

Mealy dew

On the foliage of a bush affected by powdery mildew, a loose patina of whitish color forms, as the disease progresses, it becomes denser and changes its color to brown. The first signs of damage to the plant by this disease can be detected at the beginning of the summer period. As a result, in those parts of the bush that are affected, there is a cessation of growth, blackening and dying of diseased parts, the formation of ovaries does not occur on the inflorescences. Such rhubarb loses its resistance to frost. To get rid of this disease you need to use the same methods and drugs as in the fight against Ramulariosis. The greatest effectiveness in the fight against such a disease is shown by such biofungicides, such as: Gamar, Alirin-B, Planriz, and others.

If rhubarb is affected by a fungal disease like rust, then pustules appear on the surface of its foliage, when they crack, they pour out rusty-colored powder, which is the spores of the fungus. This plant has a lesion of metabolic processes, as well as a decrease in growth. After the affected foliage is cut, the bush will need 2 or 3 treatments with Topaz with a break of 1.5 weeks.

Because of the ascochitis on the foliage, large patches of ocher-brick color are formed, their shape is irregular and elongated. In places where the spots are located, cracking, drying and rash of tissues are observed. Sick bushes will need to be sprayed with a Bordeaux mixture (1%).

Before proceeding with the treatment, it is necessary to take into account that rhubarb in the foliage, shoots, petioles and in the root system accumulates toxins and poisons, therefore, it is not recommended to spray it with fungicides. Replace chemical drugs in the fight against fungal diseases can infusion of mullein. In order to cook it, a third of the bucket is filled with fresh cow dung, then cold water is poured into it, so that it becomes full. The mixture will be ready after three days, while it is necessary from time to time to mix. Strained through a dense fabric infusion should be mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10, in the evening after sunset spray bush with this composition.

Eggs scoops

The scoops arrange their egg-laying near rhubarb, where the eggs hibernate. In springtime, caterpillars of yellow or off-white color appear from them, reaching a length of 4.5 cm, they bite into the scapes and shoots and feed on the plant pulp. There is a gradual desiccation of damaged tissues, while the caterpillars move to still whole petioles. In order to clear the area of ​​such a harmful insect, it is necessary to remove the affected parts of the bush as soon as possible, and also to clear the area of ​​weeds, because the scoop near it prefers to arrange its own egg-laying.

Rhubarb Weevil

The rhubarb weevil is a bug, which is about 0.6 cm long, on the surface of its elytra is a layer of brown and grayish scales. Such pests eat rhubarb leaves, while they arrange their egg-laying in leaf petioles. Without legs, the dirty-yellow larvae hatch from the eggs, which live on the foliage, eat it and pupate there. To scare away such a pest, it is necessary to spray the bush with a solution of manganese potassium (5 grams per 1 bucket of water).

Onion nematodes

Onion nematodes, which are microscopic worms, live in the petioles, foliage and shoots of this plant. As a result of their vital activity, rhubarb tissues soften and swell, and this leads to the death of the bush. To date, there are no effective measures to combat such a pest; therefore, the affected plants need to be dug up and destroyed as soon as possible, and in the area where they grew, nothing can be grown for at least a couple of years.

Wittrock Rhubarb (Rheum wittrockii)

In comparison with other species, this one does not have a very large bush. The shape of the leaf plates is ovate-triangular, their length is about 0.5 m, and the width is up to 0.4 m. Folded along the edge of the foliage has short petioles, on the surface of which there is a pubescence. Spreading paniculate inflorescence consists of flowers of pale pink or white color.


Since the composition of such a plant includes acids that contribute to the formation of stones in the bladder and kidneys, people with urolithiasis and gallstone diseases should not eat it. It can not be eaten for people with pancreatitis or with increased acidity of the stomach. It should also be remembered that rhubarb promotes blood thinning, so it can not be used for bleeding and hemorrhoids.