Garden flowers, plants and shrubs

How to deal with powdery mildew on roses


Mealy dew is a rapidly spreading plant fungal disease. Initially, a white powdery coating appears on the leaves, similar to flour or powder. It can be easily wiped with a finger and even taken for ordinary dust. But it was not there! Do not have time to look back, as this infection will appear again, and even in greater numbers, capturing all new areas of habitat. Not only leaves become white, but also stalks and flower stalks. Gradually, the old leaves turn yellow and lose turgor. New - grow ugly and twisted. If you do not take measures to cure powdery mildew, the plant will die.

Mealy dew on plants: what is it?

What visually appears to be white bloom, in fact, is the mycelium of parasitic powdery mildew (Erysiphales). These are real parasites that infiltrate plant cells and drink juice from them. Therefore, after a couple of days of powdery mildew on the plants, their lower leaves turn yellow, hang and atrophy.

It looks like with increasing powdery mildew

Upon closer examination it can be seen that ulcers form on the leaves at the places of attachment of the mycelium. Living tissue is "eaten." The plant looks frankly sick, as the fungi draw nutrients from it. In addition, forming white patches on the plates, parasites interfere with the photosynthesis process, which ultimately causes the plant organism to decline. To get rid of the powdery mildew you need to quickly, using all the measures of the integrated struggle, otherwise the plant will die.

Ulcers in the place of mycelium formation

Powdery mildew disease: where does it come from?

Spores of mildew fungi are frequent inhabitants of the soil, but they do not always manifest their parasitic nature. When there is a warm, sunny weather, the plant is being watered and fertilized while the fungus does not shine. To cling to the "master" and develop they begin if:

  • Outside it is cool (15.5-26.5 ° C), damp (humidity 60-80%), cloudy weather (for example, during the rainy season). Particularly influenced by weather conditions on the street and balcony plants, when grown in rooms, they are not so noticeable
  • there is a large amount of nitrogen in the soil,
  • vegetable planting thickened
  • Irrigation mode is not observed. For example, the plant is often watered without waiting for the top layer of the earth to dry out. Or, on the contrary, they regularly dry the earthen room, and later - pour it. All this leads to a violation of immunity and, as a consequence, the appearance of powdery mildew.

In addition to these external conditions, already “awakened” disputes can get on the flowers:

  • by air (from infected trees or plants),
  • through irrigation water (if disputes got there),
  • through your hands (if you touched an infected plant, and then touched a healthy one).
Mealy dew is able to completely destroy the plant in a short time

Proper agrotechnology is an important condition in the fight against powdery mildew

The fight against powdery mildew is an integrated approach. First, the agrotechnical cultivation of the affected plant must be put in order. It means:

  • watering only after the topsoil has dried,
  • during the fight against powdery mildew - completely abandon spraying,
  • if possible, bring the affected specimen to a brighter, more sunny place until the moment of recovery from powdery mildew,
  • thin out thickened plantings, tear off old leaves that touch the ground,
  • for the period of remission - less nitrogen fertilizers, more phosphate-potassium (with the disease - no fertilizer at all).

All care errors must be corrected, otherwise powdery mildew will appear regularly. Now let's talk about direct treatment.

How to deal with powdery mildew: medical spraying and watering

To get rid of powdery mildew, do the following:

  1. Cut off the affected (yellow, devoid of turgor) leaves and all flower stalks. If powdery mildew appears on roses, petunias, chrysanthemums and similar bush plants, it is advisable to do a cardinal pruning. The more damaged branches will be destroyed, the greater the chance of cure,
  2. replace the top layer of soil in a container, a pot, or under a plant in a flowerbed - there are hidden entire colonies of fungal mycelium,
  3. conduct a medical spraying and watering the plant with one of the medicinal preparations. When spraying, you need to strive to soak all the leaves and shoots. From the plant should pour like after a spring rain. There is also a more effective way: pour the treatment solution into the pelvis and dip the bush there. Liberally moistened with solution and soil, by spraying from a spray bottle or watering. The walls of pots and pallets are also processed.

Mealy dew: folk remedies

Let's make a reservation right away: folk remedies for powdery mildew are effective as prophylaxis or at the initial stages of the spread of the disease. If the destructive process was launched long ago, more than 5-7 days ago, it is already useless to fight this way. It may be possible to stop the development of the disease, but not completely eliminate it.

The most famous and effective folk preparations for powdery mildew are prepared as follows:

1. From soda ash and soap

25 g of soda ash dissolved in 5 liters of hot water, add 5 g of liquid soap. Spray the plants and topsoil with a cooled solution 2-3 times at weekly intervals.

Protective powder for powdery mildew is made from soda ash and liquid soap (best for commercial use).

2. From baking soda and soap

In 4 liters of water dissolve 1 tbsp. l baking soda and 1/2 tsp. liquid soap. Spraying performed 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

3. A solution of potassium permanganate

2.5 g of potassium permanganate is dissolved in 10 l of water, used 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days.

4. Whey Solution

Serum diluted with water 1:10. The resulting solution forms a film on the leaves and stems, which makes it difficult for the mycelium to breathe. At the same time, the plant itself receives additional nutrition with nutrients and improves its health, which affects the improvement of its appearance. Treatment with whey solution is carried out in dry weather, at least 3 times, with an interval of 3 days.

5. Broth horsetail

100 g of horsetail (fresh) pour 1 liter of water, stand a day. Put on the fire and boil for 1-2 hours. Strain, cool, dilute with water at a concentration of 1: 5 and spray the bushes. The concentrate can be stored in a dark cool place for no more than a week. Horsetail spraying can be carried out regularly for the prevention of powdery mildew in the spring-summer period. In the fight against an existing disease (at the initial stage), 3-4x effective spraying is effective every 5 days.

6. Copper-soap solution

This remedy for powdery mildew is distinguished by a high degree of effectiveness due to the inclusion of copper sulfate in the composition of a well-known fungicide preparation. In a glass (250 ml) of hot water, 5 g of copper sulphate is diluted. Separately, 50 g of soap is dissolved in 5 l of warm water. After that, the solution with vitriol is poured into the soapy water gently, with a thin stream and with constant stirring. The resulting emulsion sprayed plants 2-3 times with an interval of 6-7 days.

7. Mustard solution

In 1 liter of hot water 1-2 tbsp is mixed. dry mustard. The cooled solution is good, both for spraying and for watering.

8. Ash + Soap

In 10 liters of heated (30-40 ° C) water stir 1 kg of ash. The solution is insisted, stirring regularly, about 3-7 days. Then pour the liquid component (without the ash suspension) in a clean bucket, add a little liquid soap, pour it into the sprayer and process it. Spray the plants every day or every other day 3 times. 10 liters of water are added to the bucket with the ash particles sank to the bottom, stirred and used for watering.

9. Infusion of rotted manure (better cow)

Pour over the rotted manure with water in the ratio 1: 3, insist 3 days. After that, dilute the concentrate twice with water and spray the bushes.

10. Infusion of garlic

25 g of garlic (minced) pour 1 l of water, stand for 1 day, filter and spray the collection.

Mealy dew: treatment with chemicals

If powdery mildew appears on your flowers, the fight against it is most effective with the help of modern fungicidal agents. They have a detrimental effect on the fungus, stop the harmful processes in plant cells, protect and treat it. Spraying spend 1-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days (depending on the selected drug).

Powdery mildew chemicals act quickly and efficiently

The most effective drugs for powdery mildew:

A well-known fungicidal drug is phytosporin, in which the active ingredient is a concentrate of bacteria Bacillus subtilis in powdered chalk and humates. Despite the fact that phytosporin is considered a therapeutic agent, it is practically useless against existing powdery mildew. However, as a prophylactic agent, it will act flawlessly.

What is powdery mildew dangerous?

Powder-growers, gardeners and flower growers very often collide with powdery mildew, as it affects garden, grain, fruit and berry and ornamental crops.

This fungal disease is caused by a number of pathogenic fungi. If we talk about roses, then a mushroom settled on them called “Sphaerotheca pannosaLew. var. Rosae Voron. As a result of its settlement on the leaves, stems and buds of flowers, the plant loses its decorative appearance, stops growing, its buds deform, do not open, the leaves turn brown, turn black and dry out. As a result, the death of the flower can be observed. Even at the initial stage of the disease greatly reduces the immunity of plants, and they can not tolerate adverse external conditions, winter cold.

Signs of defeat

The symptoms of powdery mildew are quite characteristic: they do not confuse this disease with any other. With the defeat of the organs of plants covers the mealy cobwebby grayish-white thick plaque - mycelium. It looks like it looks like flour is poured on the sheets. After spores ripen, drops can be observed on the plaque - it is from here that the name of the disease originated. Later, at the end of summer, the bloom becomes brown, and on the surface of the leaves, stalks, small dark brown balls appear - spores.

Usually, infection occurs in the first month of summer - it is at this time that the spores of the fungus, which had hibernated in the fruit body on plant debris, are released. It begins with the lower leaves, gradually capturing the entire flower.

Favorable factors for the spread of the disease are heat, high humidity, sudden changes in temperature during the day and at night. Usually, temperatures from 22 ° C and above are sufficient and air humidity is 60-90%. There are several reasons for the spread of the disease on roses:

  • planting infected seedlings,
  • wrong agrotechnology,
  • thickened landing,
  • a surplus of nitrogen fertilizers,
  • nutritional deficiencies, in particular phosphorus and potassium,
  • lack of preventive measures
  • the presence of weeds in the rosearium,
  • poor air permeability.
Spores of fungi spread from plant to plant with the help of wind and water, as well as upon contact with a diseased plant. In winter, the fungus changes to weeds, and in spring it returns to roses.

Preventive measures

Of course, as with any disease, it is better not to allow it than to deal with its consequences. Therefore, preventive measures take the first place in the cultivation of roses. These include:

  • regular inspection of plants
  • compliance with the recommended conditions for planting (drainage of soil, sufficient distance between the bushes, the choice of the site with the right lighting, landing on an open area, protected from the winds),
  • timely removal of weeds,
  • proper agricultural practices, including regular watering and compliance with the rules for the introduction of nutrients - do not overfeed with nitrogen and prevent deficiency of phosphorus and potassium, prefer to give organic feedings,
  • prophylactic spraying with special protective preparations
  • careful autumn rosemary processing with the cleaning of dry foliage and deep digging of tree trunks,
  • Choice for planting disease resistant varieties.

  1. "Leonardo da Vinci".
  2. "Wedding Bells".
  3. New Dawn.
  4. "William Shakespeare 2000".
  5. "Rosters Yuterson".
Preventive spraying of powdery mildew on roses is carried out in the spring and autumn periods. Use preparations containing copper (for example, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate), with the addition of soap. For example, you can treat this solution: blue vitriol (15 g), green soap (200-300 g), soda (50 g).

Also used are 0.25% Benomil, 0.4% Zineb, 0.1% Fundazol. As a rule, treatment is carried out in the spring before flowering and in the autumn after dropping the foliage, the interval between spraying is 10-14 days.

The root-dressings are also measures for the prevention of powdery mildew, which should be carried out before flowering using a mixture of superphosphate (0.3%) and potassium nitrate (0.3%).

Folk remedies

At the first symptoms of powdery mildew on roses, you must begin treatment with folk remedies. Here are some effective recipes.

Recipe 1. Whey (1 l), iodine (10 drops) mixed in water (10 l). Use for spraying the leaves and stems twice with an interval of 7-10 days.

Recipe 2. Soda (40-50 g), soap (40 g) mixed in 10 liters of water. Spray twice a week.

Recipe 3. Fresh manure (one third of the bucket) pour water (10 l). To sustain three days, stirring every day. Strain through cheesecloth. Dilute with water 1 to 10.

Recipe 4. Chopped garden weeds (half a bucket) pour a bucket of hot water. Stir and defend for two days. Before use, strain. Dandelions, celandine, coltsfoot, plantain and other herbs will do.

Recipe 5. Finely chopped garlic (80 g) put in 10 liters of water, boil. Cool the solution, strain and use for spraying.

General recommendations on the treatment of folk remedies:

  1. Spraying should be carried out in the evening to avoid burns on the leaves.
  2. Before each treatment a fresh solution is prepared. Such funds are not subject to storage.
  3. Spraying is carried out at least two times, until the disappearance of signs of damage.
  4. Before processing, it is necessary to remove and destroy infected leaflets and buds by burning.

Chemical attack

If the folk remedies turned out to be helpless against powdery mildew on roses, it is necessary to move on to more radical control measures — to spray with fungicides: drugs designed to treat fungal diseases.

Today, a large selection of bio-fungicides and systemic fungicides is on sale.

Among the systemic fungicides most commonly used are: “Skor”, “Fundazol”, “Maxim”, “Topaz”, “Baktofit”, “Fundazim”, “Kvadris”.

In search of funds, than to treat roses from powdery mildew, gardeners resort to recommended bio-fungicides, which include:

  1. "Fitosporin-M".
  2. "Alirin-M".
  3. "Hamair".
  4. "Planriz".
These drugs are less dangerous to the environment than conventional fungicides, but they are also less effective and have a shorter period of action. They will require more treatments than conventional antifungal chemicals. The rules and terms of spraying can be found in the instructions on the packaging of drugs.

Recommendations for the treatment of fungicides:

  1. Processing carried out with an interval of 10-14 days.
  2. It is better to spray in the evening.
  3. Preparations need to be alternated, because the fungus that stimulates the disease, can get used to the active substance in the composition of a particular means.

Thus, powdery mildew is one of the serious fungal diseases that many plants are exposed to. Unfortunately, beautiful garden flowers are no exception. However, having the necessary information about the causes of powdery mildew on roses and how to deal with it, you can keep it out of your rose garden, observing preventive measures. If it was not possible to avoid the disease, then use proven folk growers or fungicides tested by gardeners, and she will certainly deviate from your flowers.

Powdery Mildew Chemicals on Roses

Recognize defeat by powdery mildew is easy. This infection is characterized by the following symptoms:

  • white patches appear on the sheet plates, which are easily removed with fingers,
  • the lesion quickly grows, the plaque captures the growing shoots and the emerging buds,
  • gradually plaque becomes denser and darker
  • diseased leaves are deformed, twisted, fall,
  • diseased shoots bend, dry at the ends,
  • diseased buds do not open and die.

Finding the listed symptoms on your plants, you must take emergency measures. When the disease is already raging in the rose garden, no need to spend time on folk remedies. It is necessary to trim the affected parts and turn to agrochemical fungicides:

When treating powdery mildew roses with chemical fungicides, it is important to understand three things:

Spraying of roses with fungicides is carried out in dry cloudy weather.

  1. The earlier treatment is started, the more effective it will be.
  2. Для полного уничтожения возбудителя однократной обработки недостаточно.
  3. Если по истечении 20 дней после начала лечения симптомы сохраняются и продолжают прогрессировать, нужно сменить препарат.

Помимо опрыскивания самих кустов, нельзя забывать об обработке почвы вокруг них. The old mulch should be removed from the circles and burned, the surface of the soil should be poured abundantly with one of the proposed preparations and put clean, dry mulch.

Tip # 1. Mealy dew often affects roses, under which excess nitrogen fertilizers are applied - including manure. To reduce the likelihood of the disease, nitrogen fertilization should be carried out moderately and only in the springtime.

author: Dr. D.G. Hessyon

Powdery Mildew Dose on Roses

In addition to "HB-101", the following biological preparations provide excellent protection against powdery mildew and other fungal infections:

It is also useful to close up the “Glyocladin” tablets in the trunk circle. This is done after watering and good soil heating, 1-3 tablets under a bush, depending on the size of the root system of the rose. After that, the soil must be mulched.

Folk remedies for powdery mildew

To resort to folk remedies can only be used to prevent the disease of roses with powdery mildew. Most often, gardeners recommend the following formulations:

  • iodine whey
  • solution of potassium permanganate,
  • mustard solution.

Indeed, spraying with these agents can help out if an outburst of powdery mildew is observed somewhere in the neighborhood. However, for the treatment of diseased bushes home formulations are too weak, and it is better to turn to more serious means.

Tip # 2. Before using any preparation for powdery mildew - chemical, biological or domestic - it is necessary to remove the affected leaves and shoots from the rose bush and burn them.

Folk recipes against powdery mildew

At the initial stage of the appearance of white bloom on roses, bushes can be sprayed with one of the solutions to choose from:

  • soda-soap solution (50 g of soda and the same amount of soap on a bucket of water)
  • garlic infusion (80 g of crushed cloves brew in 10 liters of water),
  • mustard infusion (2-3 tablespoons of powder per 10 liters of warm water),
  • solution based on serum and iodine (1 l and 10 drops, respectively, in a bucket of water).

Spray roses should be in the evening with a fresh solution at least twice. Infected leaves and flowers are pre-cut and burned.

Chemical control measures

If the time of onset of the disease is missed or many bushes get sick, it is better to take special preparations. Powdery mildew copes with fungicides such as:

When treating roses with fungicides, one should maintain an interval of 2 weeks and alternate the means so as not to cause addiction.

Disease prevention

To prevent the occurrence and development of dangerous fungus, it is necessary to regularly carry out preventive measures:

In addition, it is important to choose a well-lit and non-windy place for them at the stage of planting seedlings, and to leave a sufficient distance between the bushes when breaking up the rose garden.

In the case of powdery mildew, “to diagnose” is not difficult, since it has a number of characteristic signs:

  • the upper part of the leaf plate, the stem, the buds and the petals of the blooming flowers are covered with a mealy white or light gray patina,
  • upon close examination, the stains look like the thinnest layer of cobwebs or cotton,
  • yellowness and necrotic spots appear on the leaves,
  • rose bushes slow growth, buds shrink, some do not open at all.

When looking at the roses struck with powdery mildew, it seems as if the flowers are sprinkled with flour or sprinkled with a solution of lime. If there are such associations, then 100% flower garden captured harmful fungus.

A pathogenic organism feels best at air temperature of + 15 ... + 25 ° С and humidity of 60-75%. Therefore, the rapid spread of infection occurs from early July to early September.

Special chemical products for powdery mildew on houseplants

If powdery mildew appears on your flowers, the fight against it is most effective with the help of modern fungicidal agents. They have a detrimental effect on the fungus, stop the harmful processes in plant cells, protect and treat it. Spraying spend 1-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days (depending on the selected drug).

Articles for florists

The most effective drugs for powdery mildew:

A well-known fungicidal drug is phytosporin, in which the active ingredient is a concentrate of bacteria Bacillus subtilis in powdered chalk and humates. Despite the fact that phytosporin is considered a therapeutic agent, it is practically useless against existing powdery mildew. However, as a prophylactic agent, it will act flawlessly.

Powdery mildew prevention on indoor plants

Like most other plant diseases, powdery mildew is easier to prevent than to cure. Therefore, prevention - the first remedy against such a fungus. And any prevention is, first of all, the right agricultural technology. To minimize the risk of infection, you must:

- regularly thin out the landing,
- remove old leaves in contact with the ground,
- carry out watering plants only after the top layer of the earth is completely dry,
- do not abuse nitrogen fertilizers,
- time to conduct phosphorus-potassium dressing.

Another type of prevention against powdery mildew can be done in early spring, before leafing. Berry bushes and other perennials are simply scalded with boiling water. This should be done quickly using a watering can with a lens. It should be poured all the branches entirely, not lingering for a long time at one any place.

Short-term exposure to very hot water does not have time to harm plants that have not yet fully awakened after the winter. But disputes, mycelium, as well as pathogens of other diseases, are dying. A similar effect is exerted by the steam jet under pressure, which is obtained using a household steam cleaner.

Unfortunately, such an unpleasant disease like powdery mildew is quite often found on many plant species - both on indoor flowers and those that grow in open ground. Among the room plants, such as violets, gerberas, kalanchoe, cissusa, begonia, cineraria most often suffer.

The causes of powdery mildew on houseplants

First of all, the matter is that stagnant humid indoor air and sharp temperature fluctuations. The spread of the disease is also carried out by contact with the sick and healthy plants, with watering, with the flow of air, as well as during the transfer by insects.

The cause of the disease can be excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers, as well as a lack of calcium in conjunction with high temperature and humidity in the room. At the same time, abundant watering is not a pretext for the development of powdery mildew.

The disease is caused by the fungus Sphaerotheca pn. It has many varieties that affect a wide variety of plants, including shrubs and trees.

How to deal with powdery mildew on indoor plants?

The very first thing to do when detecting characteristic white spots on the leaves and flowers of plants is to ensure the correct microclimate in the room, avoid sudden changes in temperature, cut off the affected shoots at the first signs of illness.

The diseased plant must be treated with one of the following solutions:

  • manganese-sour - 2.5 grams of manganese per 10 liters of water,
  • soda ash and soap - 50 grams of soda, 40 grams of soap per 10 liters of water,
  • tincture of garlic - 15 grams of minced garlic to insist in 1 liter of water during the day,
  • preparations based on sulfur or copper - spray the diseased plant,
  • drugs Topaz, Dectra, Skor and so on.,
  • a mixture of antibiotics - tarramycin, penicillin and streptomycin in equal shares.

How to get rid of powdery mildew on indoor plants at home? You can prepare a soda solution, for this 1 tsp. Soda needs to be dissolved in 1 liter of water, add a few drops of ordinary liquid soap and spray it with a plant. But first try this remedy on several pieces of paper to make sure that such treatment is harmless. Spray need 1 time per week until the disappearance of all signs of the disease. However, remember that the treatment of powdery mildew on indoor plants with folk remedies is effective only in cases when the disease has not spread much and the degree of damage is minimal. If you see that the flowers are severely affected, you will need to use "heavy artillery" - fungicides (Home, Topaz, Vectra, Scor, Tiovit).

It is extremely important to handle, strictly following the instructions and observing all the precautions specified in the instructions for drugs. All of them are diluted in a large amount of water, so one ampoule can be divided into several applications.

Mealy dew: general description of the disease

This disease manifests itself in the form of a whitish-colored mycelium, on which small drops of moisture appear. It appears on the young shoots, petioles and stalks of plants. First, those leaves that are closest to the ground become infected, and over time, the disease spreads to the entire plant.

If you look in detail at the place of attachment of mycelium, you can see that they resemble sores. The struck rose begins to lose its appeal over time, as these mushrooms take away all the nutrients from the rose. The leaves begin to be covered with bloom, as they cannot fully carry out photosynthesis.

Infected roses are very bad for winters. This is explained by the fact that small cracks are formed on the stems, into which pathogens of rot can penetrate.

The following factors contribute to powdery mildew on roses:

  • frequent rains
  • constant high air humidity 60–80%,
  • frequent temperature drops
  • improperly performed rejuvenation of the plant,
  • high nitrogen content in soil
  • non-compliance with the rules of landing,
  • improper watering - frequent drying of the soil or too wet soil.

Mealy dew on roses: features of the disease

With a strong defeat of this disease, the leaves of flowers begin to curl, dry and fall off. It remains a bare stem, covered with a specific felt bloom, which does not allow the plant to grow.

To protect the roses from the appearance of a fungus of this type, you should remove weeds, dig the soil under the bushes. After trimming a bush, in no case should the branches be left near the bush with roses; they should be burned.

When the first symptoms of the disease occur, treatment should begin immediately. For greater efficiency, experts recommend the use of chemicals such as: colloidal sulfur, Maxim or Fundazol.

Ways of struggle: medical spraying and irrigation

Spraying and watering can effectively fight the fungus. Before the start of medical procedures, all the affected leaves and flower stalks are broken off - they look yellow and sluggish. If the disease has covered large areas of the shrub, then it will be necessary to carry out a cardinal pruning. Please note that the more branches you remove, the less chance that the fungus will appear again.

If the flower grows in a pot, then the top layer of soil is removed and the new one is filled up. This is necessary in order to get rid of the colonies of the fungal mycelium, which may be in the soil.

After such simple manipulations, it is possible to carry out therapeutic spraying or watering with the use of a chemical preparation. During spraying, you should try to ensure that all the leaves and shoots are sprayed - the medicine must drip from the leaves.

For greater effect, experts recommend dipping the bush directly into the solution with the medicine.

Folk powder mildew control methods

Traditional methods are often used for prophylaxis or in the initial stages of the disease. If the fungus struck the plant more than a week ago, folk remedies will not be as effective as chemical ones. By folk methods, you can slightly stop the development of the fungus, but not completely eliminate it.

The most famous folk drugs include the following:

A solution of soap and soda ash

For the preparation of this tool need 25 g of soda, 5 liters of hot water, 5 g of liquid soap. After preparing the solution, it is used for spraying roses. Use this tool can be 2-3 times with an interval of a week.

A solution of soap and baking soda

In 4 liters of water should be diluted 1 tablespoon of baking soda, half a teaspoon of liquid soap. Spraying frequency - 2-3 times with a weekly interval.

Potassium permanganate solution

For the preparation of this drug will require 10 liters of water for 2.5 g of potassium permanganate. Spraying is carried out with an interval of 5 days.

Serum based solution

Serum and water are taken in a ratio of 1:10. This solution forms a small film on the leaves, which blocks the oxygen to mycelium. The same film provides additional nutrition and healing plants. Please note that the treatment with this compound should be carried out in dry weather with an interval of 3 days.

Broth based on horsetail

To prepare the broth, you will need 100 g of fresh horsetail and 1 liter of water. Infusion should be infused for about a day. This broth is boiled for several hours. The finished base is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5. This drug is great for preventive measures in the spring and summer.

Copper sulphate and soap solution

This is one of the most effective means, since it includes copper sulphate. For the preparation will require 250 ml of hot water and 5 g of copper sulfate. In a separate container should be diluted 50 g of soap in 5 liters of warm water. In a soapy solution in a thin stream pours into the copper sulfate.

Mustard Solution

At 10 liters of water will take 1-2 tbsp. l dry mustard. This preparation perfectly will be suitable both for watering, and for spraying.

Ash and soap based solution

For the preparation of this folk remedy will require 10 liters of warm water and 1 kg of ash. This solution should be infused for about a week, while stirring occasionally. The present solution is filtered to get rid of the ash slurry. Liquid soap is added to the filtered product. You can spray room flowers and roses with this preparation every day or every three days.

Garlic infusion

To prepare such an infusion, you will need 25 g of pre-chopped garlic and 1 liter of water. Should insist day, then you need to strain and spray the resulting composition of indoor plants.

Chemical products designed to combat powdery mildew

For quick and effective treatment of indoor plants, chemical fungicidal preparations can be used. They destroy fungi and stop negative processes in the cells of houseplants. Fungicides also treat and restore roses.

Spraying chemicals can be performed from 1 to 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days. They act quickly and efficiently.

The following chemicals are used for treatment: