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How to grow rhododendron in the Leningrad region?

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In recent years, rhododendrons are incredibly popular with gardeners. Luxurious shrubs, densely covered with large flowers, are increasingly appearing in regions with harsh climatic conditions. And this is not surprising, because in recent years, breeders have brought out many varieties that are able to winter at sharply negative temperatures and at the same time maintain blooming buds.

Flowerbed Rhododendron

So, now the residents of the northern capital can take care of and planting rhododendrons in the Leningrad Region. But what should novice flower growers know, so that the growing process does not bring disappointments, and the new inhabitant of the flower bed pleases with long flowering?

Soil for rhododendrons

Rhododendrons are very demanding on the composition and structure of the soil. They grow only in the penumbra, on moist, drained soils with high acidity. Attempts to grow this whimsical flower under different conditions almost always lead to failure. Therefore, before embarking on planting a luxurious plant on your site, you should take care of acquiring a suitable substrate.

Peat moss

The ideal soil for growing rhododendrons is high-moor peat, of weak decomposition, the acidity index of which ranges from 3.4 to 4.5. In specialized gardening shops such peat is sold in packages of various capacities, and the necessary information is contained on the packaging.

Coniferous litter

If, due to circumstances, it is not possible to purchase high-moor peat, then it can be replaced with pine litter from pine or spruce forest. In order for the care and planting of rhododendrons in the Leningrad Region not to cause difficulty, only semi-rotted needles, which have lain on the ground for several years, should be used.

In no case can not apply green, fresh needles.

To improve the quality of planting mixture, pine needles are mixed with coarse-grained river sand and earth from oak forests. Composed of needles, sand and sod land, the substrate has sufficient porosity, well absorbs water, but does not form moisture stagnation, which has a positive effect on the development of the root system of rhododendrons.

To make sure that the soil prepared by yourself is suitable for cultivation, it is useful to check its acidity. It is desirable that the pH was approaching the mark 3.5 - 4.5.

There are many popular methods for determining the acidity of the soil, but, unfortunately, the reliability of such measurements does not always correspond to reality. Therefore, it is better to use litmus papers or pH testers, which are sold in gardening stores.

Landing pit preparation

To provide rhododendron with the necessary conditions for growth and abundant flowering, it is necessary to prepare a planting pit. The dimensions of the future hole should be several times larger than the size of the roots of the seedling. Since the root system of the plant is superficial, the pit should not be made too deep, 35–45 cm is enough, but you can take 50–60 centimeters in width. The soil chosen from the pit is replaced with a prepared substrate.

Rhododendron planting pit

In cases where clay soils or loams predominate at the dacha, the depth of the landing pit is increased by 10 - 15 cm, and the drainage layer is laid on the bottom. It may be:

  • broken brick
  • gravel,
  • rubble
  • clay shards
  • broken slate.

Such a drainage system in the future will protect the plant root system from soaking and rotting. The drainage layer should be about 10 - 15 cm, the depth by which the landing hole was increased.

It is advisable to prepare a hole a few days before planting rhododendron in open ground. This makes it possible to water the soil well, so that it thickens, subsides, and has time to dry out.

Planting seedlings

Before planting, the seedling is removed from the shipping container, immersed in a container with water and left for 30 minutes. This is necessary so that the gaps in the earthen coma are filled with moisture and after planting there are no air cavities around the root system.

Rhododendron planting

When caring and planting rhododendrons in the open field, pay attention to the root neck of the plant is strictly at ground level. Depth, as well as elevation above the soil, has a negative effect on plant development.

Planting sapling rake

In order to prevent oversights in this seemingly simple matter, it is recommended to use the vertical rail landing method. As a slat, you can use any board, stick, twig, or even a spade stalk. To do this, a rail is thrown over the prepared landing pit, a hole is dug out corresponding to the size of the plant’s earthen coma, and then a sapling is installed.

On the rail one can clearly see whether the root neck is at the level of the soil surface or it is necessary to adjust the size of the hole, raising or vice versa, lowering the seedling to the required depth.

Having achieved the necessary position of the root collar, the hole is covered with soil, compacted and thoroughly moistened. Please note that there is no need to tamper hard, and especially trample down, the ground in the pristvolnom circle.

Careless movements can lead to a violation of the integrity of the root system, and in the future the plant will be sick for a long time and adapt. It is quite good to shed the soil, this will allow the roots to independently take the optimal position.

After landing, pristvolny circle can be mulched to avoid increased evaporation of moisture. As mulch is most often used:

This care and landing of rhododendrons in open ground can be considered complete, now you need to start caring for new pets.

Rhododendrons do not tolerate drying out the root system. Even the slightest lack of moisture leads to sad consequences. The plant starts to hurt, and in some cases fold foliage. Therefore, the first thing you need to ensure a sapling - regular watering and sprinkling.

Watering rhododendron bush

However, one should not get carried away and turn the area with rhododendron into a small swamp, the abundance of moisture can trigger the development of root rot and the death of the plant. It is necessary to find the “golden mean” and maintain the necessary balance, making sure that the soil is always moderately wet, but without stagnant moisture.

Water the plants for the entire season. During the whole spring and until the middle of summer it is abundant, at the end of the summer watering is reduced, but before leaving the plant they resume in the winter again, trying to imbibe the plant as much as possible with life-giving moisture before hibernation. The lack of water in the roots and shoots during the winter period contributes to the freezing of rhododendron.

There is a mass of fertilizers intended directly for feeding rhododendron. However, you can do with conventional fertilizers used for other crops.

In this case, remember that:

  • Nitrogen is used to build green mass (shoots and leaves),
  • Potassium to develop and strengthen the root system,
  • Phosphorus for budding, abundant flowering and planting flower buds.

In addition to the fertilizers listed above, magnesium, iron, sodium should also be applied to prevent the development of various diseases. After all, peat soils are very scarce and the amount of nutrients in them is limited.

It should not be limited to root fertilizers, rhododendrons are responsive to top dressing with leaf preparations. One of the most frequently used for such plants is Uniflor.

When buying, note that they are of different directions:

Bringing top dressings under rhododendrons, it is not necessary to become attached to certain dates. Everything is purely individual and depends on climatic and weather conditions. It is important to closely monitor the development of the garden and pet, and he himself will tell you what and when he needs.

At the time of growing vegetative mass, the introduction of nitrogen-containing drugs. It can be both nitrate and urea. The period of nitrogen from the beginning of spring to mid-summer.

In the second half of the summer, it is excluded to slow the growth of shoots. Strongly growing stems rob a bush of many forces, they do not have time to ripen at the same time, and they freeze out at the very first low-negative temperatures.

Potash - phosphate fertilizers are needed during the period of active flowering, as well as at the time of planting flowering buds.

There are many opposite advice, someone recommends completely abandoning fertilizer application in the second half of summer, while others insist on regular, systematic fertilizing throughout the season.

However, it should be noted that in a rather harsh climate that prevails in the Leningrad region, in the Urals and in Siberia, the plant must be stimulated so that it can mature for a safe wintering. Therefore, starting from July nitrogen should be completely eliminated, while phosphorus - potash nitrogen, on the contrary, should be strengthened.

Root top dressing is desirable to alternate with deciduous. Only in this way can the plant be provided with complete “ripening”, painless care in the winter and spring awakening in a cold climate.

Usually on the package they indicate in what proportion the preparations should be mixed to prepare a nutrient solution. Usually, this is a tablespoon without a slide or a matchbox of fertilizers per 10 liters of water. For a young small bush, it is quite enough to feed 5 liters at a time, but for an adult you can increase the dose to 10 liters.

Fertilize plants should be no more than 1 time in 2 weeks. So, for a month, rhododendron should be fed twice, one root one hardwood.

Fertilizers should not be applied immediately after planting. The first feeding is carried out 2 weeks after planting in open ground.

Preparing for the winter

Despite the fact that breeders do a great job and annually produce hybrid rhododendron varieties that are able to survive in the harsh Russian winters, sometimes their efforts are not enough.

Shelter for the winter

And if in the Moscow region plants can still be left without shelter for the winter, then the care and planting of rhododendrons in the Leningrad region is accompanied by the mandatory construction of shelters for garden pets.

It is important to understand that rhododendrons freeze out not so much from the cold as from the winds. Chills contribute to the weathering of moisture from the shoots, and dried out stems die. So it is necessary to provide protection not only from frost, but also from the wind.

The great danger is fraught with plenty of snow. Heavy snow can cause branches to break.

Procedure before hibernation:

  • Since the end of the summer season, the plant begins to actively nourish moisture, regularly carrying out watering. In the absence of precipitation, it is necessary to water daily.
  • With the onset of frosts, the near-stem circle mulch with bark, needles, cones or a nutshell. For low plants, a 6 to 10 cm layer of mulch is enough, for adults it can be increased to 20 cm. Note that the roots are located under the entire surface of the crown, which means you need to cover a fairly large area.
  • Shelter set when the thermometer drops to the mark - 10. At higher temperatures, the plant can evaporate and the harm from such a shelter will be much more than good.
  • It is advisable to build a shelter in the shape of a cone or pyramid so that falling snow does not accumulate on its surface. To do this, form the frame of rods or slats.
  • Nonwovens are used as cover, wrapping them in 2 layers. In areas with severe frosts, you can use additional fir fir shelters.

Keep in mind that evergreen rhododendrons, as well as many conifers fade in the winter sun. Leaf plates begin to actively evaporate moisture, dehydrating the plant, and the root system is not able to fill it, because the soil is still frozen. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the winter shelter only after the snow has come down and the soil warms up.

Arrangement of the pit and landing in the ground

Planting plants should not be in each separate pit, but in one common. To prepare a landing site, you must:

  1. Remove a layer of earth with a depth of 1 m in the desired area (this is done so that the root system is in free space).
  2. The lateral areas of the prepared recess should be covered with a special screen made of natural materials (it will prevent the penetration of moisture and various dressings into ordinary soil).
  3. Cover the bottom at 25-30 cm with chunks of broken brick or large crushed stone, then cover it with another 10-15 cm layer of sand.
  4. Fill the pit with prepared soil.
  5. Top with pieces of bark of conifers.

When the place is ready, you can start planting.

Rhododendron is very fond of water, so gardeners pay special attention to watering in the summer, as well as during the formation of flower buds. For these purposes, collected rainwater is used, as tap water harms plants.

It is very important to water regularly rhododendron.

Do not forget about the replacement of coniferous bark, which is rotting under the action of moisture in the autumn-winter period. It is best to replace in spring when the plant is just starting to wake up. To protect a pink tree from frost, it must be tightly covered with a spanbond, lutrasil or other non-woven materials available.

Recommendations for feeding rhododendron and fertilizer soil

The period of fertilizing the soil and feeding the plant is the beginning of spring-mid-summer. Experts recommend using nitrogen fertilizers in early March, but phosphate and potash fertilizers at the end of June (when the rhododendron fades and young shoots appear).

Important! Another option is an ideal feeding - cow dung. It should be mixed with rainwater (1:15 ratio), infused for 7-10 days, and then add this mixture to the root.

Rhododendrons are propagated in two ways:

  • seeds
  • cuttings
  • inoculation
  • dividing the root of the bush.

For breeding seeds need:

  1. Prepare the substrate (mix 3 parts of peat soil with 1 part of sand).
  2. Plant seeds, sprinkle them with sand.
  3. Cover with glass.
  4. Put in a bright room.
  5. Water as the soil dries.

When the seeds germinate, the young bore need to be transplanted into another container (larger diameter). During the first year of growth, they should be in greenhouse conditions, and then planted in open ground.

Preparation of rhododendron cuttings

For propagation by cuttings will require:

  1. Cut the shoots on cuttings 5-8 cm.
  2. Remove leaves from the bottom edge of the cuttings.
  3. At 12-16 o'clock put them in a substance to stimulate growth (it can be found in the store).
  4. Then put in a peat-sand mixture (3: 1), cover with polyethylene.
  5. Growing cuttings in peat soil at a temperature of 8-12 degrees.
  6. In the spring to land in open ground for further germination.

Pests and diseases that affect rhododendron

Common pests include the shieldfish, spider mites, snails, slugs, weevils, rhododendron flies, mealybugs and bedbugs. To save the plant from annoying creatures, it is necessary to treat it with special chemicals that can be found in a phyto-pharmacy.

Leaves of rhododenron affected by bedbugs

But among the diseases most often can be found - fungal diseases (cancer, rust, leaf spot). To rid the culture of spotting and rust, it is treated with copper sulfate. In case of cancer, all the affected shoots must be cut off. For prophylactic purposes, experts recommend using Bordeaux fluid (treatment is carried out in early spring and late fall).

Of course, it is quite difficult to grow rhododendron in my garden. But if you still decide on this, then such a beautiful plant will delight its violent color for more than one year. Try it, and you will definitely succeed!

Rhododendron in the garden: photo

Deciduous azaleas (rhododendrons) - planting and care in the garden

Deciduous azaleas, they are rhododendrons, grow well and bloom in the garden with proper planting and caring care. Including in the middle lane and more northern areas, for example, in the Leningrad region and in Karelia. Although still many gardeners do not dare to grow these beautiful plants, considering them capricious, slowly growing and not cold-resistant.

And in vain. After all, the first azalea hybrids of the deciduous were bred in Russia by E.L. Regel before 1917 by crossing wild Japanese azaleas and Dutch garden varieties. And today there are many more modern varieties of winter-hardy deciduous rhododendrons.

Such rhododendrons feel great in the gardens in the suburbs without shelter for the winter. Pink, orange, red and yellow balls of rhododendron flowers appear in the spring, when buds begin to blossom in the trees. From one flower bud, 4-6 funnel-shaped flowers are formed. В диаметре каждый цветок составляет 6-8 см. Цветение длится около 3 недель, но и всё лето рододендроны очень декоративны, благодаря красивой зелени. А осенью листья приобретает красные тона, становясь особым украшением сада.

При посадке рододендронов очень большое значение имеет почва. Этим растениям нужна кислая, питательная почва, торфяно-вересковая. Clay clay soils are not suitable for growing these plants in the garden at all. For planting rhododendron, they dig a hole 50 cm deep and 70 cm in diameter. Half the hole is filled with sphagnum, a quarter more with leaf humus mixed with loose, nutritious acidic soil. If your site is such a soil, then you can use the ground when excavating a hole.

Water under the plant should not stagnate, so when planting rhododendron drainage is done with the drain. In deciduous azaleas, the roots are superficial and small, and the ground beneath them should always be wet. For better retention of moisture, the soil around the bush should be mulched with peat or leaf humus, a layer of mulch is taken 6-10 cm thick.

Feeding garden rhododendrons has its own characteristics. The use of simple nitrogenous fertilizers for these plants is inefficient; they are responsive to supplements for plants growing on acidic soils. Fertilizers need to start flowering. If you do this earlier, flower buds may begin to crumble. Do not apply fertilizer and too late, "before winter", this makes azaleas less winter-hardy. The latest term of feeding rhododendrons in the garden - two months before the onset of frost.

It is best to replant deciduous rhododendrons in the spring. And you can do it after the start of flowering. The second term of the transplant is in August and early September. But it is undesirable to transplant them during the development of the kidneys of the next year.

Depth of planting is maintained the same as it was before the transplant. The transplanted shrub is surrounded by a small, about 10 cm tall, side of moss and needles. Its purpose is to delay the snow in winter, which will protect the roots of the plant from frost.

Reproduction of deciduous azaleas

Unlike many plants, deciduous rhododendrons are easily propagated by seed. In Azalea Regel they ripen in mid-September. Sowing produced in early spring. Germination of seeds should occur in a cool room at a temperature of 10-15 degrees, otherwise the risk of death of seedlings is high. Seeds are sown on the surface in a mixture of peat or coniferous soil and sand. Then they are pressed into the ground with a plank or just a finger. From above moisten soil with seeds from a spray.

When 2-3 true leaves appear on the seedlings, they dive. For the summer, the seedlings are placed in a ventilated greenhouse, sheltered from the direct sun, for the winter in the first year they are covered with sphagnum or needles. Grown from seed rhododendrons bloom in the fifth - tenth year.

Garden rhododendrons are also propagated by grafting. Procurement of cuttings produced in July, when laid buds next year. 3-4 cuttings are left on the cuttings, cutting them in half. It is very important to leave leaves on the top of the cutting.

The lower ends of the cuttings before planting are immersed in a solution of a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin), then the cuttings are placed for rooting in a mixture of peat and sand in a 4: 1 ratio. It is desirable to organize the bottom heating. The easiest option is to raise the containers with cuttings above the ground on the bench or specially made supports, so that the bottom of the soil can be heated with warm air.

Rooting is slow. Weak roots form on cuttings only towards the end of summer. Cuttings rooted in a container or box should be planted early in the ground; they are placed in cool conditions for the winter, but at a positive temperature (+1-4) degrees, for example, in a cellar. If the cuttings immediately rooted in the open field, they can successfully winter there, but they need to organize a shelter, for example, from sphagnum. But they need to cover the plants when offensive frost occurs, in the warm weather in the fall on the sheltered cuttings can bud the buds.

The following year, the plants do not need to replant, at least until the end of growth.

And now about the simplest and most effective method of reproduction of azalea deciduous - layering. This process is produced in early spring. Use shoots last year. They are pulled over with copper wire and added dropwise, fixing it in the ground with the help of special hooks or scrap materials: slingshots or crossing sticks. The land around you need to remember to regularly moisturize throughout the summer. For better rooting, once in 20-30 days, it is possible to water the cuttings with a heteroauxin solution. Separation from the parent plant is produced only the following year in the fall. But the new azalea is blooming in the spring of next year.

The material was prepared using the article K.Samofal, Science and Life, No. 5-6, 1992.

Rhododendron - landing and care

Rhododendrons are mostly heat-loving plants, so for the Middle Band it is better to choose frost-resistant species. These are Canadian and Japanese species, rhododendrons of Shlippenbach and Vazhei, yellow rhododendron and low Kamchatka. Some varieties of plants can also be resistant to low temperatures, but still more difficult to care for a novice gardener.

Where to plant

First of all, you need to decide where it is better to plant rhododendron. On the choice of the place depends on the health of the bush and the abundance of flowering. So, despite the heat-loving, the plants do not tolerate the bright midday sun - moderate lighting will suit them. Therefore, they should be planted in pritenny zones, preferably from the north or north-east side of the house.

Also it is necessary to refrain from landing on the open, blown by the winds terrain. If there is no other place, you can protect the bushes from one or two sides with decorative screens and high hedges. This will protect the flowers from the wind and will not spoil the look of the garden.

Rhododendrons look beautiful between the trees, but here you need to be careful - the constant shade also harms the plant. It is better to plant them outside the shadow zone from the crown, but, again, from the north side. Given the surface root system of rhododendrons, they do not get along with spruces, lindens, birches, aspens, maples, elms or chestnuts - these trees will take all the moisture. But trees with a deep root system - oaks and pines - will be delighted with the floral complement. Also get along well with the rhododendrons of apple, cherry, pear or plum.

How to plant

What is important is not only the choice of location, but also understanding how to properly plant rhododendron. So, they can not be placed either too deep in the pit, or too shallow. It is impossible both to deepen the root neck and leave a part of the root system on the surface.

The planting pit for an adult plant is dug up with a diameter of 60 cm and a depth of 40. A substrate is laid in it, depending on what kind of soil is needed. So, for rhododendrons, acidic soil is required, so a mixture of top (sour) peat, loam and pine litter is prepared in equal parts. The substrate is poured at the bottom of the pit, it is well watered, rhododendron is rolled out of the container, and the remaining free space is filled with the remaining mixture. Again, everything is well watered and poured on top about 5 cm of mulch - it will retain moisture for a long time.

For a young two-year-old bush, a hole can be made less — about 30 by 30 cm, and two or three years later, a ditch about 15 centimeters wide and about 20 meters deep is dug around the perimeter of this hole, which is filled with the same substrate.

But such small plants suffer greatly from gusts of wind, so they are best planted not in open spaces. Then, after a few years, when the bushes get stronger, they can be moved to another place. In addition, rhododendrons easily tolerate transplants, and due to the compact root system they are very easy to dig.

It is best to plant rhododendron in the spring - then the plant will have time to take root before winter. At the same time, they can be planted already flowering, the main thing to remove some inflorescences, so that the plant does not have to spend a lot of effort to maintain the flowers.

How to water

Before watering rhododendrons, it is worth considering one moment. Paradoxically, on the one hand, they should be watered abundantly, and on the other hand, to prevent stagnation of water. Therefore, the soil should be loose, but if in the spring the water does not leave for a long time, you need to organize a good drainage. Also, rhododendrons grow remarkably in high beds raised above the level of spring flood by 10-15 cm.

For the same reason, the substrate in which the bushes were planted necessarily includes loam. Otherwise, peat and pine litter in the first dry period are going to a clod, which is almost impossible to soak so as not to pour or damage the roots.

Water needs soft, best rain or melt. At the very least, a flow-through is suitable, but by no means plumbing. Chlorine and other precipitating impurities can damage the plant. Also, periodically need to spray the leaves with water. You shouldn’t be afraid - you don’t have to go around each bush with a spray gun; a special nozzle for a hose with a “rain” mode is enough.

Fertilize rhododendrons best in spring and autumn. In the spring they use either organic fertilizer - rotted manure, or mineral fertilizer - special fertilizers for rhododendrons or any nitrogen fertilizer. In the autumn it is necessary to fertilize with superphosphates. At the same time, in any case, the bushes are first watered well, and only then diluted fertilizers are applied. This helps protect the roots from "burning".

Trimming and wintering

In the question of how to care for the bushes of rhododendron, pruning is not the last place. So that the bush continued to thrive, you need to cut faded inflorescences before the formation of seeds. This saves plant resources and stimulates the formation of more flowers for the next season.

To form a beautiful ball, pruning is carried out in early March. Young shoots pruned over sleeping buds. If you need to update old bushes or reduce overgrown crown, cut only shoots 2-4 cm thick (under the fork). Place the cut to be treated with oil paint or "garden pitch" - this will prevent infection. The whole bush cannot be cut for renovation - in the first year one half is cut, in the second - the second. Otherwise, the plant will recover much longer.

For the winter you only need to cover the evergreens - immediately after the first frost. When the temperature is above zero, the bushes may rot. Shelter is made of white covering material, slightly tying with twine. Air vents leave not only the bottom, but also the top - the lower one will almost certainly be covered with snow. Deciduous species easily tolerate frost, their only weak point is the root neck. It is covered with a fifteen centimeter layer of mulch (peat, foliage).

Despite the apparent complexity, even an inexperienced gardener will be able to care for rhododendrons. Spending a little time, you can provide your garden with bright colors for the whole summer!

Rhododendron Care

“Rhododendron” in Greek means “rose tree”. In the North-West and Leningrad region, there is still an opinion about the "whims" of these plants: they are believed to be subject to freezing in the winter, and in the summer, allegedly, they require some special care. I had the opportunity to dispel such opinions by creating in the Leningrad region more than a dozen gardens with massive rhododendron plantings.

Probably, there is no need to go into the specific details of these plants, because experts have quite extensively studied, characterized and described all types and varieties of rhododendrons.

The key to success in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Leningrad region is the selection of winter-resistant varieties, compliance with the agrotechnological methods of planting these plants and caring for them.

My experience with plants gives a steady, positive characteristic of the rithodendron of the Catavbinian “Grandiflorum” (Rhododendron carawbiense “Grandiflorum”). This variety is very winter-hardy, has a good annual growth of 10-15 cm, has dark green leaves.

Choosing a landing site

So, let's start with the choice of a place for landing. Rhododendron feels comfortable in the penumbra, i.e. somewhere under the cover of a coniferous forest, we must take this into account, as well as the perspective of the entire landscape composition. We prepare pits or trenches for filling with vegetable soil.

These plants do not tolerate direct rays of the scorching sun. I would also like to remind you that when choosing landing sites near houses and buildings, it is necessary to take into account the probability of snow falling from the roofs, which leads to the breaking of branches and the death of plants.

Single seat

A place for planting rhododendrons should not be prepared for each plant separately, but one. For what the soil is sampled in a continuous way for the whole group of plants, to a depth of at least one meter (the root system of rhododendrons should feel comfortable).

Along the side contours of such a pit, it is necessary to lay a screen of ecological materials so that the root system near the growing large trees does not take moisture and nutrients from our plants.

Soil preparation

After the seats are ready, it is necessary to prepare a sour loose soil with a high content of humus. In sour peat need to add pine needles, forest floor and cones.

At the bottom of the planting pit or trench, we lay a half-thickened (broken brick) layer of 20-30 cm, then a layer of sand of a large fraction of 10-15 cm — this is done to improve soil-hydrological conditions and improve soil aeration. Further, we all fall asleep with a mixture of sour peat, humus soils, needles and leaves. In the upper layer, add the bark of pine and spruce. The soil should be loose and ventilated.

During planting, care should be taken to ensure that the root collar does not penetrate. If rhododendrons are planted along buildings, where there is a possibility of snow slipping from roofs in winter, I recommend installing collapsible frames for the winter, as shown in the photo.

Feeding and care

The root system of plants is not deep, so the tree trunk cannot be loosened. In late March - early April, fertilizing with nitrogenous fertilizers should be carried out (ammonium sulfate 15-20 hn bush). In mid-June, it is necessary to make potash and phosphate fertilizers. You can not fertilize plants at the end of summer, so as not to provoke their growth. Lime and chlorine should be avoided. In dry and hot weather, the bushes are plentifully watered using rainwater. In the spring, it is necessary to mulch pristvolny circle with pine and spruce bark (2-3 cm layer).

In the area of ​​feeding the root system of plants should not be lime, ash, clay, because this will change the acidity of the soil towards the alkaline environment, and this will affect the vital activity of plants. Ph soil should be 4.5-5.

During planting, it is recommended to make a 10% aqueous solution with an anti-stress drug "extrasol". 10-15 minutes to hold the root ball in the bath with a solution.

Rhododendrons are very moisture-loving plants and are sensitive to drying out of the soil, therefore special attention should be paid to irrigation, especially during the budding period. It has a very beneficial effect on plants by irrigating with collected rainwater, but rhododendrons cannot be watered with cold and chlorinated water.

If the plants are subjected to fungal diseases, then the diseased leaves must be removed and the bushes sprayed with “Kaptan” or “Fogmarite 25W”. If the leaves turn yellow-brown and the plants are stunted, then it is chlorosis - a disease caused by an excess of lime in the soil. In this case, the plant is better to transplant. Stretched and bare shoots shortened in April. Radical pruning is carried out in an adult plant once every 3-4 years.

Before the start of winter, the bushes should be well shed with water (on thawed soil).

The first winter is recommended to cover rhododendrons with non-woven materials - spunbond, lutrasil, etc. It is better to use frame shelters. In the spring, it is necessary to open the plants in several receptions: for 10-15 days, in cloudy weather - in order to avoid sunburn. Observing the above recommendations, you can avoid the problems associated with the cultivation of these plants. Success is guaranteed.

Text and photo: Nikolay Voronkov, landscape architect, designer, gardener

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“Rhododendron” in Greek means “rose tree”. In the North-West and Leningrad region, there is still an opinion about the "whims" of these plants: they are believed to be subject to freezing in the winter, and in the summer, allegedly, they require some special care. I had the opportunity to dispel such opinions by creating in the Leningrad region more than a dozen gardens with massive rhododendron plantings.

Probably, there is no need to go into the specific details of these plants, because experts have quite extensively studied, characterized and described all types and varieties of rhododendrons.

The key to success in the cultivation of rhododendrons in the Leningrad region is the selection of winter-resistant varieties, compliance with the agrotechnological methods of planting these plants and caring for them.

My experience with plants gives a steady, positive characteristic of the rithodendron of the Catavbinian “Grandiflorum” (Rhododendron carawbiense “Grandiflorum”). This variety is very winter-hardy, has a good annual growth of 10-15 cm, has dark green leaves.

Rhododendron species

This plant has more than 18 species that have managed to settle down with us. Одни из них выглядят аккуратными кустиками, которые украсят любую комнату, другие же имеют более весомые габариты, значит, их выращивание потребует открытого пространства.

Ознакомимся с многообразием рододендрона, который может быть представлен следующими видами:

Данный тип может достигать высоты до 2 м, имеет короткие листья и время цветения майское. Рододендрон даурский обладает успокоительным эффектом для центральной нервной системы и стимулирует сердечную деятельность, если из него заваривать настой. Suitable for planting in the garden or greenhouse.

Blooming wild rosemary in the Transbaikal taiga. For Transbaikalia, this amazingly beautiful shrub is a symbol of the region.

This type has a strawberry flavor, which even persists after the leaves are cut and dried. That is why Adams rhododendron is actively used in the form of herbal soothing teas, and young shoots are considered an excellent tool in the fight against cholera, diphtheria and streptococci.

The beginning of flowering of rhododendron Adams.

This type of plant is not just a decorative garden decoration, but also a source of nutrients. The Caucasian Rhododendron perfectly rescues from rheumatism of various forms, in addition, it has a therapeutic effect on the respiratory system in case of catarrhal diseases.

Caucasian rhododendron on the slopes of the mountains.

This plant is an excellent solution for decorating a garden, as it has a lush flowering. Planting and care in the open field for the flower is not difficult.

Japanese rhododendron shrub with delicate cream flowers. Shrub reaches a height of 0.5 - 1 meter.

This flower should be planted in wide-diameter pots, as it has a fairly wide system of roots. In the summer, and in the warm autumn, this plant should be removed in the shade, but do not forget to regularly spray its leaves and fertilize the soil.

And this is not the whole list of these plants, which can be planted in our latitudes, even in Moscow, planting and care will not require a scrupulous approach. Whether it be Adams rhododendron, or another, any novice gardener can handle such a task. The only thing worth mentioning is about different flowering times. Therefore, in order to make the garden look chic at any time of the year, whether in the fall or in the summer, it is worthwhile to get more deeply acquainted with the time of rhododendron blooming for better care.

Choosing a place to land

Let us dwell on plants that grow in gardens, for example, Daurian or Caucasian rhododendron. Such a flower requires not only sour soil, but also a place that will receive a minimum of direct sunlight. In addition, the flower rhododendron is afraid of strong drafts, so this moment should also be taken care of. In nature, it grows in the shade of large trees, so if there are pines or thick spruces on the plot, then the Japanese rhododendron or another species of it is best to plant there. Also one of the important points is the absence of water stagnation.

Planting a plant on your site, you should ask about how much he needs the sun. If it is an evergreen blooming type, then it should be placed as much as possible in the shade. Otherwise, it simply will not bloom.

The best option for the bush will be growing it near a natural or artificial reservoir.

In this case, the air will always have optimal moisture.

In fact, any flower, be it Adams rhododendron, or the deciduous type, requires certain rules. But as is clear from the above, there is no particular difficulty in their implementation.

How to plant a plant?

For those who decide to make a new highlight in your garden, for example, Dahuri rhododendron, you should know how to grow this bush. It has its own characteristics and rules of care. But let's start with the correct fit:

  1. Japanese rhododendron is best planted in the spring.

This will allow the shrub to quickly get used to the new conditions, and its roots are well connected with the new soil. But if the plant is selected with a closed type of system, then the landing time can be chosen more later.

  1. In nature, this flower grows in the soil, which is rich in humus, friable, acidic, and even the rhododendron of the Caucasus finds such conditions.

Accordingly, before placing the seedling in the ground, prepare a substrate in which there should be leafy ground, litter of coniferous plants, peat and, of course, fertilizers.

  1. The root system of these plants is quite sensitive, therefore, as soon as the shrub has been planted, the mulch material is strewn around it.

For such purposes, the best option considers the bark of pine and pine litter. The layer should be equal to 5 cm, but not less.

To grow rhododendron success, you need to know the rules for caring for such a plant. And there are too many of them, and they are not so complicated:

  1. In the summer, it is required to devote a constant time to the soil moisture. But it is important not to overdo it here, because the plant will rot from excess moisture.
  1. If it is Caucasian rhododendron, then air humidity is very important for it. Therefore, it must be constantly sprayed, not only the leaves, but also the flowers, when they appear.
  1. For irrigation using river or rainwater. If you use ordinary water from the tap or artesian well, then you should be prepared for the fact that the bush does not bloom. This is due to the fact that such a liquid contains too high a concentration of calcium and magnesium, because of which the soil is salinated.
  1. When faded buds begin to appear on the plant, they must be broken off in such a way that the axillary buds are preserved. This is the only way to improve the splendor of flowering next year.

All these moments allow you to create incredible beauty in the garden. The only thing that, perhaps, is to speak out - the region. For example, if rhododendrons in the Moscow region, planting, more precisely, the place for planting should be chosen from such a position so that the sun gets at least a flower. And if this is an area of ​​St. Petersburg, then there should be no problems with humidity. Therefore, in order not to blunder, even at the moment of purchase it is worth choosing a bush not according to decorative flowering, but according to its requirements for climatic conditions.

Wintering plants

Winters in our region are not always pleasant and mild, so your garden must ensure proper wintering. But it all depends on what kind of plant grows on the site:

  1. If it is deciduous plants, they do not require shelter. The maximum that is needed here is to sprinkle the planting areas with dry leaves.
  1. For evergreen species, shelter is needed, but not so much for protection from frost, but for them to dry.
  1. If the temperature outside, for example, in the fall, does not fall below 10 ° C, then the Japanese rhododendron, or another, can not be covered, since they are sufficiently resistant to such frosts. The most optimal time for shelter is November.

As for the discovery of a plant, it is best to carry it out by the end of March and the beginning of April, so that the roots can gradually adapt to the warming up soil.

All these points will help to decorate the garden with an unforgettable color, while if there is a desire to diversify the site, you can think about how the rhododendron is transplanted, because it reproduces by cuttings. So, after a certain time, you can create whole living walls from one bush.

Breeding taps

At the beginning of spring, on the lower branches of the plant, several shallow longitudinal cuts are made, overcutting the bark.

The place with notches is treated with a root formation stimulator.
They bend the branch to the surface of the earth and pin it with a metal clip, which can be made from an electrode or a thick wire.

Fall asleep place with a hairpin layer of soil and moisturize.
The upper part of the shoveled shoots are raised up and fixed in this position with the help of a support. A peg and a rope are used as a support.
Separate the young seedling from the parent plant next spring.

Description of rhododendron: varieties and varieties

The genus of rhododendrons is quite extensive - more than 1 000 species, which include diverse varieties of this wonderful plant. The natural distribution area of ​​rhododendrons is limited to eastern countries: China, Japan, Korea, the Himalayas, some plant species are found in the Caucasus, in North America, in northern Africa and in Australia. On the European territory, two rhododendron varieties grow in the mountainous regions of Germany.

Culture refers to the flowering deciduous or evergreen shrubs of the heather family. The branches of the plant may have smooth bark or pubescence. Leathery, dark green small, ovate leaves sometimes have pubescence. Flowers bell-shaped, funnel-shaped, simple and terry. The color of the petals varies depending on the variety: white, pink, lilac, red, purple. Modern varieties of rhododendron are yellow and orange in color. Numerous small seeds ripen in boxes.

Rhododendrons, the cultivation of which in Russia is most acceptable, is limited to 26 species belonging to the three groups of plants.

  • Evergreen - tall shrubs, which even in winter do not shed dark leathery foliage. Large flowers are painted in different colors and tones. Growing evergreen rhododendrons in the open field requires adherence to a number of necessary rules: the plants are located in places with diffused shadow, the soil for them must include a large amount of peat.

Tip: It is important to choose the right neighborhood for evergreen species of rhododendron, especially when decorating areas in landscape design. It can be all types of conifers, heather, ferns grown in open ground.

  • Intermediate (semi-evergreen) - low shrubs, wintering well under a layer of snow. The plant is characterized by a compact form, a huge number of flowers during the flowering period. In winter, the main part of the leathery leaves fall off, only a whorl of leaves remains at the ends of the branches, from the center of which new foliage grows.

  • Deciduous - rhododendrons of this group are most adapted to the conditions of the Russian climate. Growing these plants is not difficult, and the plants themselves do not need to be specially adapted in the winter period. Flowering in spring, repeated in autumn.

Planting a plant

Rhododendron: planting and caring for plants with the observance of agrotechnical rules - allowed to transplant plants in spring and autumn. In the fall - in any of three months, in the spring - in warm, well-established weather, when the soil is no longer frozen (usually April or May).

Choosing a place to plant a plant is required with particular care. Planting rhododendrons should be protected from the prevailing wind and direct sunlight. It is important that the shrub is available for viewing, then the decorative appearance of the plant during flowering will decorate the area and please the eye.

The landing pit for rhododendron bushes is prepared on the basis of the actual size of the root system, and should be 2 times larger in volume. Natural soil should be removed completely. To plant a plant, it is necessary to prepare a special earth one consisting in equal parts of heather land, peat, garden soil or leaf humus, rotted manure, and pine needles (pine).

The prepared pit is filled with a mixture; a place is prepared for planting a rhododendron bush, which must be placed strictly vertically. The soil around the root system of the plant must be compressed tightly - the formation of voids and "pockets" in the planting soil is not allowed. When the groundwater level is high, it is necessary to provide for laying a special drainage layer on the bottom of the pit. The top layer of soil after planting should be mulched peat crumb.

Rhododendron: correct watering

Watering a planted plant is done at the time of planting, which is abundant, sufficient to moisten the soil to a depth of 20-30 cm. Subsequent irrigation of rhododendron should be done with soft, acidified water, with full soil moistening.

Tip: When planting plants with buds, it is necessary to remove most of them.

Plant Care

The transplanted plant requires attention and careful care. In addition to regular abundant watering, rhododendron requires spraying on the foliage, especially when planting in late springtime. The soil needs to be mulched to maintain sufficient moisture. When mulching should choose options that increase the acidity of the soil.

The root system of rhododendrons consists of delicate, thin hairs that look like matted hair, therefore loosening the soil, especially deep, should be excluded from flower care activities. Weeds grown close to the plant need to be removed periodically.

The appearance of the plant will immediately report a shortage or excess of water - the leaves of rhododendron will begin to turn yellow and fall off. Watering is required in sufficient quantities, but without overflow, this is one of the main rules of care for the culture.

To ensure proper care of rhododendron, it is important to timely trim the overgrown bushes. Places cut to prevent infection of the plant, covered with paint or garden pitch.

Compliance with simple requirements for the care of the plant, will grow a wonderful flowering shrub.

Fertilizer and rhododendron feeding

In the first year, transplanted plants already require thorough fertilizer, which is applied in a highly diluted form, in small portions. The plant itself will signal the need for fertilization: it will stop growing, discard foliage or the leaves will change color, the formation of flower buds will stop.

Organic fertilizer for top dressing of rhododendron bushes is semi-decomposed manure that needs to be infused in water. Top dressing is carried out with an aqueous solution of manure. To increase the formation of flower buds, as well as the extension of flowering periods, granulated superphosphate, or double superphosphate, is used, which is scattered on moist soil under the plants. Useful for the plant and fertilizing with microelements, - fertilizers are applied in the form of watering or spraying the green mass of the bush. Bushes need to be fertilized intensively until the end of August.

Rhododendron Reproduction

Growing rhododendron involves plant reproduction by layering and seed, dividing a bush, grafting, cuttings.

Seed propagation - A great way to get plants with improved traits. Sowing is done from late December to late March. The second period, suitable for seed reproduction of rhododendrons - the end of November.

Sowing of seeds produced in shallow bowls or boxes filled with a nutrient mixture of peat, sand, coniferous and sod land, taken in equal proportions. Seeds are pre-soaked for a day. Sowing is done on the top layer of soil, not being buried deep in the ground. Moistening of crops is made by dispersion. It is required to provide seedlings with a 12-hour daylight illumination. The timing of seed germination depends on the variety. The first flowering of seedlings is possible in 3-4 years.

This method has its advantages, but during seed reproduction of rhododendrons, it takes up to 5-6 years to get full plants.

Faster new plants can be obtained with vegetative methods of propagation of culture: grafting, division of the bush, rooting cuttings.

Diseases and pests

Fulfillment of the rhododendron agrotechnical requirements ensures excellent plant growth and development. However, repeatedly overwetted or overdried soil, alkaline soil reaction, sunburn of leaves, can provoke a surge in cultural diseases.

Plants can be damaged by stains, rust and chlorosis. Disease control measures - improving the conditions of plants, the use of special tools to combat disease. Often, rhododendron diseases are caused by pathogenic fungi: gray rot, fusarium, blight.

Pests affecting rhododendrons: slugs and snails, eating young leaves and buds. Collection of these pests is done manually. In addition, the plant is harmed: bugs (rhododendron), spider mites, mealybugs, weevils, scale insects, rhododendric fly. Disposal of pests is not difficult when using systemic insecticides.

Rhododendron: combination with other plants

Planting in combination with conifers and a group of heather, positively influences the development of rhododendrons. It should be remembered about the height of the rhododendron bush. Low cultivars should be located away from the dense shade of mature trees, but avoiding direct sunlight.

An excellent combination is observed when located near the rhododendrons of shade-loving ferns and host.

Rhododendron in landscape design

In landscape design, rhododendron is an indispensable attribute for decorating plantings in partial shade. The great advantages of the plant are its long and very decorative flowering. Rhododendrons are widely used in the design of heather gardens, as an addition to the planting of pine groves. Looks great plant in mono plantings.

Low-growing varieties of rhododendrons are planted near the alpine hills, in mixborders and decorative flowerbeds.

Types of rhododendron: photo







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The rhododendron plant for me turned out to be very fastidious in the care. It was necessary to provide a place in the shade so that direct sunlight would not reach it. Loves spraying with cool water. Так что учитывайте особенности, если решитесь его посадить. При грамотном уходе будет радовать прекрасным цветением.

Рододендрон кэтевбинский грандифлорум посадка, уход фото

Рододендрон кэтевбинский «грандифлорум»: посадка, уход + фото!

После посадки растение нуждается в правильном поливе, так как для адаптации и развития требуется влага. The most critical period lasts until August, when it becomes very hot, and it rains less and less.

The plant has a small root ball, which dries quickly, so the flower needs to be watered often - 4-6 liters of water every 2-3 days and spray - preferably daily in the morning or in the evening. According to most experts, the right watering is more important than fertilizing fertilizer. But after 15-20 days after planting, when he takes root, rhododendron of Ketevba Grandiflorum, it is advisable to feed him 10-15 grams of complex mineral fertilizer. From mid-September to November, abundant watering contributes to a more successful wintering of the plant. If dry autumn and little rain, then water every 5-7 days, 6-8 liters of water. Before frost (late September - early October), spray the plant with a copper-containing drug (copper sulfate, copper chloroxide), “Bordeaux mixture” or “Fitosporin” to prevent fungal diseases. At the beginning - mid-November (after the arrival of the first cold weather) sprinkle a 10-15 cm layer of mulch (peat, needles), and on top cover it with lapniknik or stretch white sackcloth, agrofibre or lutrasil on stakes (wire frame). Luxurious handsome rhododendron Ketevbinsky.

How does the katevbinsk Grandiflorum winter? + Reviews

Winter hardiness of the hybrid variety “Grandiflorum” is up to –32 ° C, it is also very enduring. Therefore, such a preparation for winter will allow you to see it in spring healthy in the Moscow region, the Leningrad region, and in most cases even the Urals with Siberia.

A sufficient amount of moisture will strengthen the "rose tree", fungicide treatment will save you from diseases, and winter shelter will save you from frost and burns from the bright spring sun.

How to remove the shelter in the spring after winter and further care in detail, see a separate article: “CARE FOR RHODENDRON IN OPEN GROUND».

Reviews

According to the reviews of flower growers, rhododendron Katevbinsk Grandiflorum grows well, blooms profusely, is quite light and easy to clean.

In addition to the stunning beauty of the inflorescences, the hybrid variety is highly valued for its high winter hardiness and endurance.

The best proof of words is the fact that “Grandiflorum” is the world's most popular variety of rhododendron with a very rich history.

ADDITION TO ARTICLE:

1. WHERE AND HOW IS IT BETTER TO BUY A REDOENDENDRON SEEDLINE?

2. REPRODUCTION OF RODODENDRON: CUTS, TRUCKS, SEEDS!

3. LEAVING IN AUTUMN AND HOW TO PREPARE RHODENDENDON TO WINTER?

4. FROST-RESISTANT SPECIES OF RHODODENDRONE: LISTOPAD AND ETERNAL GREEN!

5. WHICH HYBRID VARIETIES OF EARTH-GREEN RHODENDRON WINTER-RESISTANT AND POPULAR?

We wish you to successfully plant Grandiflorum and enjoy its beauty for many years!

Strawberry alba variety description, cultivation and care

Alba Strawberry - variety description, cultivation and care

On the marked prepared garden beds are made wells, fertilizers are applied if necessary, well shed water. Planting healthy strawberry whiskers is made vertically, the core (kidney) should be on a level with the ground. The point of growth never deepens, the probability of engraftment of such antennae is small (10-15%). After planting strawberries once again watered under each bush.

Further actions are regular watering, fertilizing, weeding, loosening. Watering need strawberries as the soil dries, not allowing excessive moisture and drying. Irregular irrigation leads to the development of fungal, infectious diseases. A good helper can be a mulch of straw, hay, mowed grass, supporting and maintaining moisture inside the soil for a longer period of time. When it is not possible to use mulching or non-woven material, loosen the soil surface in a timely manner, breaking the earth crust for better access of oxygen to the roots.

How do fertilizing affect yields?

There is always an opportunity to do without fertilizers, but in order to increase the yield of Alba strawberries and collect the maximum amount of fruits, it is necessary to feed the plants with additional micronutrients. Which fertilizer is better to use, mineral or organic, depends on your desires and capabilities. Experienced agronomists recommend alternating the use of chemical and organic supplements.

Schematically, strawberry feeding is divided into four stages: during planting, in the spring when the first young leaves appear, after the fruit is set, in the fall before preparing the strawberry rows for the winter. When planting use different options for mixtures:

    put a handful of humus in the hole, a spoonful of superphosphate, ¼ cup of wood ash,
    a handful of compost, 15 grams of potassium salt, the same amount of urea, 30 grams of superphosphate.

The first spring feeding should be carried out with fertilizers, the basis of which are nitrogen-containing compounds. Fertilizers are diluted in water and watered directly under the root of a strawberry bush; instructions for use should be followed; an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil increases the growth of the strawberry leaf apparatus to the detriment of fruit bearing.

The second fertilization occurs during the flowering or fruit making strawberries Alba. At this stage, potassium nitrate, ash are introduced. The last final dressing is carried out at the end of August, September, using complex mineral or gumi fertilizers.

Rhododendron is a tall ornamental shrub that is richly planted with lush inflorescences. The flower is often used in the design of landscape areas, as well as landscaping gardening areas in many countries around the world. However, to grow this ornamental shrub can and at home, fortunately, the plant is distinguished by its unpretentiousness.

It is enough to know the peculiarities of care, planting and reproduction of this unusual for our latitude plants. And in order that the bush could easily withstand the harsh Russian winters, it is necessary to select a special winter-hardy variety.

In our article you will find many nuances of agrotechnics for growing, caring and planting this exotic culture, as well as practical recommendations from experienced gardeners.

Botanical description

Rhododendron is a typical representative of the Vereskov family, which combines various types of indoor plants, trees and shrubs. A garden plant is presented as undersized specimens, bushes that need to literally be laid on the ground, as well as huge lush bushes that reach 3-7 m in height. In cultural terms, deciduous and evergreen varieties of rhododendrons are grown.

The genus of this shrub is distributed in temperate latitudes of the southern and northern hemispheres. In Russia, the habitat varies from plant species: from the harsh Far East and Siberia to the warm Crimea. In the wild nature of rhododendrons grow as a single crop, and the whole thickets of shrubs. You can often meet them near the swamps and forests, near the mountain slopes in the forest-steppes and tundra.

Rhododendron received its most interesting name due to its spectacular appearance, which looks most attractive during the flowering period. Translated from the Greek Rhododendron means "tree - rose." During flowering shrub densely covered with all around quite large flowers, which in form resemble roses.

  • Flowers from rhododendron collected lush buds, shield or brush with corollas of red, purple, pink and yellow shades. The size of a single flower can reach in diameter from 5 to 25 cm, the shape of which resembles a disproportionate bell with elegant and very long stamens. Due to the fact that the flowers are combined in dense inflorescences, a branch from a bush takes the form of a real bouquet. The flowering period begins in early spring and lasts, in some varieties almost to the very cold. The fruit is a multi-seeded box.
  • Shoots may be lowered or smooth, but the leaves of rhododendron is very diverse. Depending on the variety or type, they are elongated or ovoid, with or without petiole, annual or perennial.
  • Root system This culture is very compact and fibrous, located quite close to the surface. This property should be taken into account when planting or caring for rhododendron.

Seed propagation

Reproduction of a culture with the help of seeds is a rather difficult and long occupation. This method is usually practiced by breeders in order to develop new plant varieties. However, following a certain technology, rhododendron can even be grown from seed by growers:

  • Planting is done in spring in plastic containers with a fertile mixture of soil and peat, as well as with the addition of river sand. Seedlings covered with glass and left in a well-lit place.
  • It is very important to conduct surface sowing so that the seeds are not placed too deep in the soil.
  • Seeds should be soaked in advance in water and kept for about a day. This will provide a higher percentage of germination.
  • Soil in containers must be constantly moistened. In order to avoid overmoistening the soil or stagnant moisture, it is best to spray water for irrigation from a spray bottle.
  • Similarly, over-wetting to the death of a plant can result in over-drying.
  • If you covered the seedlings with film or glass, do not forget about regular airing at least once a day. During the five-minute airing, take a moment to wipe the film or glass, removing the accumulated condensate.
  • Container lighting should be maintained for at least 12 hours a day. With a lack of natural daylight, it is enough to use fluorescent lamps.
  • The first shoots can be expected in about 2.5-3 weeks. And a month after planting, the grown seedlings are planted in open pots, but before that it must be dived. Proper care will also include lowering the room temperature to 10-12 ° C.
  • In the summer it is recommended to take the pots of seedlings to the street, placing them in partial shade.
  • Seedlings can be planted in open ground only by next spring.

Grown from seed rhododendron bloom around the fourth year of the growing season.

Rhododendron cuttings

How to propagate correctly with rhododendron cuttings? Here is a small instruction that helps you grow a strong and beautiful plant:

  1. Cut the lower leaves off the shoots and maintain the planting material in a special solution to stimulate root growth. The procedure should take at least 12-15 hours.
  2. We place the cuttings in a mixture of soil and peat (the same as when sowing seeds) at about 30 °, compact the ground a little and cover the seedlings with plastic or glass jars. It is important to maintain the optimum temperature in the room - 20-25 ° C.
  3. After the initial rooting of the cuttings, which can take, depending on the selected variety, from two to five months, we plant young plants for further hardening and growing in separate containers, reducing the air temperature in the room to 10 ° C.
  4. In the spring, the cuttings should be planted together with the container into the soil and already there they should be grown. Such an occupation can last up to several years, depending on how well the plant has taken root.
  5. Developing cuttings are planted in a permanent place as soon as they get stronger. This can happen in 2-3 years.

Reproduction by layering

This type of reproduction of rhododendron is recognized as the simplest and most convenient by many experienced gardeners, especially This is true for deciduous representatives.

In the spring, in order to “nail” shoots to the ground, it is necessary to select the lowest branch of the shrub. After that, a small groove rises up to about 15 cm in depth and the selected process neatly fits into it. In order for rooting to be more successful, the layering must be pinned with a metal bracket in the middle (use a hard wire), and then the top of the groove is covered with earth together with the lead. On the surface there should be only the tip of the shoot, which is tied to a peg made of wood.

All this time, the layers need to ensure regular watering and constantly maintain the microclimate in a wet state. In the spring or autumn, after full rooting of the plant, the young rhododendron is separated from the parent shrub and transplanted to a new, permanent “place of residence”. Do not forget to prepare the plant for future wintering. To do this, provide a high-quality shelter for the root system of a spruce branch or a layer of dry leaves.

In addition to the above breeding methods also practice dividing the bush along with the root systemor rather its part. This procedure is best done in autumn or early spring, when the roots of the plant are in a state of "hibernation."

Reproduction with vaccines is a rather complicated process that requires a certain amount of experience and skill. Most often used for those types of rhododendron that grow very slowly.

Landing features

Landing time. Shrubs should be planted in autumn or spring, excluding from this rule the flowering period and the time after it (10-15 days). Gardeners, as a rule, plant rhododendron in the spring season in order to avoid freezing of seedlings.

Landing place. Preference should be given to a windless and semi-shadowed place, it is best if it is located on the north side of the garden plot. In no case can not plant the plants in those places where there is stagnant moisture. It is especially important to turn your attention to the "neighbors" of rhododendron: shrubs and trees that have a shallow root system will become serious competitors in the garden plot. This, in turn, may affect nutrient deficiencies and lack of moisture.

The soil. The soil for planting should be drained, fertile, loose and acidic. Rhododendrons rather poorly tolerate a neutral and alkaline environment. Very heavy and clay substrates can contribute to the inhibition of plant growth. Optimal development of shrubs will best ensure the presence of peat in the ground.

Agrotechnika landing. Considering that the numerous roots of rhododendron have a superficial arrangement, a wide (about 60 cm), but shallow (up to 40 cm) hole should be dug. It should be almost twice the size of the seedling. At the bottom of the pit should be poured drainage layer from 15 to 20 cm. To do this, you can use pieces of slate, rubble or pebbles. After that we sprinkle drainage with a mixture of peat and loam in a ratio of 2: 1. Having tamped with the soil mixture, place the seedling in the hole in a vertical manner. We fill it up to the level of the root collar with soil and compact the soil.

It is very important that root neck was located at ground level. Otherwise, the plant may begin to languish and even die!

  • If the planting is done in poor soil, mineral and organic fertilizers should be added to the mandatory order.
  • Planted seedlings should be watered abundantly with water.
  • Additional mulching of the trunk circle (5-7 cm) will provide water retention in the soil. Peat, needles, moss or foliage can be used as mulch.
  • When planting rhododendron with inflorescences or buds, they should always be removed, directing the main efforts of the plant to the successful rooting of the shrub.
  • When planting crops in groups, it is necessary to observe the interval between shrubs, which depends on the size of the future species (0.5-2m), as well as the intended purpose of planting culture. For example, if you plan to make a “hedge” of rhododendron, you need to plant the plants much more often (about 30-40 cm).
  • The shrub is recommended to cover in the first days after planting from direct sunlight and more often to spray with water.

The root system of rhododendron, located on the surface, makes it very easy to transplant young specimens without injuring their roots. Thanks to this feature, the shrub very quickly takes root in a new place.

If the rhododendron bush has a regular and uniform shape - it means to cut it is not necessary. If the bush has grown too much, too thick, has sticking damaged and dry branches - it is necessary to prune in early spring. Thick cuts (2 to 4 cm) should be treated with paint or garden pitch to avoid possible infections. Pruning of faded buds should be carried out in order for the plant to bloom again abundantly next year, pleasing the eye with its beauty and refinement.

We tell how to properly transplant and plant rhododendron in open ground. We describe the favorable conditions for planting: place, soil, acidity, and give step-by-step instructions.

The recommendations take into account the particular climate of the Moscow region, Leningrad Oblast, the Central Belt, the Urals and Siberia.

What to choose a place for landing?

When choosing a site, it is important to consider the biological feature of the species. Ideally, the illumination, the humidity of the air and the soil should correspond as much as possible to the place of its growth in nature. In general, the larger the leaves, the less wind and the higher the humidity is.

  • Благоприятное место – легкая полутень от высоких деревьев. При этом «розовому дереву» нужно обеспечить тень в пик солнечной активности – с 11.00 до 16.00, а утром и вечером оно должно получать достаточное количество света.

Рассеянная тень – это лучшие условия для развития всех видов растения, особенно там, где резко континентальный климат с холодной зимой, жарким летом и низкой влажностью воздуха.

It is better to plant on the north or east side, since rhododendron is shade tolerant, and it is easier to tolerate shade than bright sunlight.

At the same time, in the open sunny place, it is possible to plant some deciduous species (Dahurian, yellow, Kamchatka, Canadian or Japanese). However, in a shady area with a diffused light, they will also grow better and blossom more beautifully.

The bad place is the site open to strong winds and the midday sun. In this case, there are often problems with flowering, development and wintering.

It is not recommended to plant in areas with a high level of groundwater, as well as melt water that is heated in spring. In extreme cases, you can plant on a high ridge (10-15 cm), make a good drainage and diversion ditches.

If you for some reason planted rhododendron in an unfavorable place, then it can be transplanted. The shrub tolerates transplant well, it often has a positive effect on it. Therefore, you always have a second attempt in stock.

Neighbor selection and landing distance

When choosing a landing site, consider the surrounding "rose tree" plants. Since the flower has a shallow root system, the “neighbors” are pivotal in order for it to have enough nutrients.

The best neighbors: spruce, larch and pine - as well as in nature.

Good neighbors: pear, oak, pine, apple, cherry.

Bad neighbors: elm, birch, willow, chestnut, maple, linden.

  • The minimum distance to large shrubs and trees: 2-3 meters, from a building up to 7 years (then the lime is almost not released from the solution) - 1.5 meters. When landing in a row - 130-180 cm.

Soil and acidity

Optimum soil acidity for rhododendron, pH: 3.0-4.5, he likes acidic soils. Therefore, peat soil is excellent. The earth should be rich in humus, with high air and moisture permeability (loose).

Large-flowered species are more sensitive to soil acidity, even a neutral environment inhibits their development.

Soil mixture for planting

Main components: heather land, sour moss peat, deciduous land (humus) and pine needles. They should not all be present necessarily, the main thing is to approximately observe the proportion: 50/50 organic part and garden soil from the digging of the pit.

In light and medium loam, ordinary garden soil, it is better to increase the proportion of peat and add pine needles. In sandy soil to increase the part of loam, peat and humus.

  1. High peat, garden soil (loam or sod land) and sand 3: 2: 1. A simple mixture that has been tested over the years and thousands of gardeners.
  2. High peat, leaf ground and coniferous bedding, sand - 3: 2: 1: 1.

Any soil mixture must be supplemented with complex mineral fertilizer - 30-40 gr.

Rules and Tips

  • Loam or garden soil should be 35-50% of the volume of any soil mixture. To the substrate was sufficiently loose and permeable to moisture, and also better retain moisture near the roots.
    When planting in a soil mixture with a large amount of peat without loam, the water evaporates quickly and after drying the root ball it is difficult to moisten it because of the air cushion.
  • Usually, 4-6 standard buckets with high peat and 3-4 loam buckets are required to prepare the soil mixture. But if you are missing some component, it is better to make a smaller landing pit (30 * 40 cm) than reduce the amount of peat or loam.
    And after 2-3 years around the perimeter of the pit for planting, you will dig a ditch with a width of 10-15 cm / depth of 30-35 cm, and fill it with soil mixture.
  • Do not add leaves, manure (in any form), peat, sawdust and black earth to the soil mixture.

Instructions for planting rhododendron

  1. Dig a landing hole: depth - 31-41, and width - 55-75 cm (deeper and wider than the root ball twice). Dimensions due to the fact that the root system grows more in breadth than inland.
  2. At the bottom, make a drainage layer - 8-10 cm from broken brick (only red), crushed granite, sand, pebbles or small gravel.
  3. When planting a sapling, pour it abundantly, and if the container with a dry earthy clod, soak it for 60-150 minutes (until the bubbles with air cease to go out) in water to saturate with moisture.

Soaking before planting root root seedling of rhododendron

  • Try on a seedling in a hole (neck at ground level) and pour in soil mixture. Remove the seedling and pour a hole with 5-6 liters of water to settle the soil and impregnate the lower layer to increase survival.
  • Align the seedling at the right depth - the root neck should be at ground level (just like it was in the container). But due to the fact that the substrate will subside, you need to raise it when planting 3-5 cm.
    If you plant it higher, the bush will freeze more in the winter and overheat in the summer, and if it is too low, it will start to rot and bloom badly. From above and on the sides gradually fill and compact the soil mixture so as not to leave the air cushion.

    The depth of planting sapling rhododendron

  • Water 30–40 cm of seedling 6–8 l, and 60–90 cm with 10–12 liters of water in the near-stem circle so that the soil is moistened 20–25 cm in depth. With a strong land subsidence, add a substrate.
  • It is mandatory to top with a 6-8 cm layer of mulch from peat, pine needles, heather land or leaves of birch, oak or linden to preserve moisture, increase acidity and the amount of humus.
    But do not fall asleep the very base of the flower (root neck), so as not to provoke the swelling of the bark in winter. It is better to sprinkle it with coarse sand to prevent rot from stagnating water.
  • Apply a sapling for 7-12 days depending on the weather, a newspaper cap or cloth.
  • When planting one instance, make a support for the first 2-3 months so that the winds do not rock it. The stake needs to be driven into the ground under an inclination, towards the prevailing winds and tied to it a sapling.
  • Rules and Tips

    • It is better to dig a landing pit and fill it with soil mixture in advance. If you plant in the spring, then in the fall, and if in the fall, then 2-3 months before planting.
    • Plant rhododendron better in cloudy and wet weather.
    • When planting a seedling in a container, you need to carefully trim the outer roots ("felt"), which died out due to a long touch of the container walls. Otherwise, the young roots will be hard to break through their layer to the soil.
      You can make 3-4 incisions across the root ball, and then straighten the roots down and sideways. Completely destroy whom you do not need! However, many growers say that there is no difference, and you can plant a whole lump of container without manipulation.
    • 2-3-year-old seedlings are better to plant in a quiet and shady place so that they do not suffer from moisture deficiency. The width of the pit is 30 cm, and the depth is 20-25 cm. For the 4-6th year, transplant the bush to a permanent place according to the basic instructions. This method is especially important to apply if a permanent place will be located on the windy and sunny part of the garden.
    • If a bush planted on a permanent place has buds, then it is better to remove them (except for 2-3 pieces to assess beauty) so that it will root better.

    Care after landing for rhododendron

    In the first year after planting or transplanting a sapling, needs regular watering. It is especially important to often water and spray in the heat from April to August, because the seedling has a small root ball and it dries quickly.

    Every 2-3 days water with 4-6 liters of water, and spray preferably every day.

    There is no urgent need for top dressing, timely watering is much more important, but preferably after rooting (15-20 days after planting) to make a complex mineral fertilizer. Use 30% of the recommended doses for an adult plant.

    The compositions of fertilizing are given in the article on the care of the plant - see at the bottom of the page.

    In the fall, be sure to silence and cover for the winter with spruce or covering material (lutrasil, agrofibre). Hammer the poles along the perimeter of the bush and wrap them around them.

    When is it best to plant rhododendron? Spring or autumn?

    Experts believe that it is optimal to plant a "rose tree" in the spring (April - mid May) and in the fall (September - mid November). In this case, a categorical ban on planting and transplanting only for the flowering period and two weeks after it.

    In the Moscow region, Siberia, the Central zone, the Leningrad region and in the Urals (cold winters), plant the rhododendron in the spring better, so that the plant will adapt and successfully overwinter by autumn.

    Deciduous species are also best planted in spring before flowering and leaf blooming, as “autumn” seedlings often die in the first winter.

    Reproduction by cuttings

    Reproduction by cuttings is a rather complicated method, since new growth buds are formed only a year or two later. Nevertheless, many gardeners actively use it and achieve noticeable results in this field. For rooting should take a healthy escape, always with the "heel" otherwise all efforts will come to naught.

    As the substrate is used peat with a low degree of decomposition. To create a favorable microclimate planting capacity with a handle installed in a transparent container with a tight-fitting lid. Depending on the variety, roots are formed after 2 - 6 months, but it is possible to plant a plant at a new place no earlier than a year later.

    Care and planting of rhododendrons in Siberia, photo

    Most residents of the northern regions believe that planting and caring for rhododendrons in Siberia is not possible. However, photos taken by florist practicing the cultivation of these beauties, say the opposite. Lovers of luxurious, lush flowering plants are quite able to grow them on their site.

    Rhododendron bush in Siberia

    What should I look for when growing rhododendrons in Siberia? First and foremost, of course, you should pay attention to winter-hardy varieties that can tolerate severe cold.

    It is best to give preference to plants that have been adapted in the region, the so-called zoned specimens. Ideal if the sapling was sown from seeds ripened in the same area. This suggests that the plant is quite suitable for existence in this climate.

    Buying a plant in a local nursery is the best option. After all, here experienced staff will be able to provide you with the most useful information, tell you about the existing difficulties and how to overcome them.

    See how the rhododendrons are cared for and planted in Siberia, photos provided by local residents.

    In the conditions of the northern climate, planting is carried out only in the spring, as with a later planting the plant will not have time to take root.

    The best varieties for cultivation in Siberia

    Daursky

    Evergreen shrub capable of growing up to 2 m, in a more favorable climate there are instances of 4 meters in height. Flowering lasting for about 3 weeks. The color of the petals is pink with a mixture of purple tones. It has a high degree of winter hardiness.

    Ledebura or maral

    Maral in the Altai

    Natural habitat

    Semi-leaf variety, adapted for cultivation in the northern areas. The leaves are oblong, small, not exceeding 30 mm in length. The lower surface of the leaf plate has a more intense color and is covered with the smallest scales, the upper one is absolutely smooth. The flowering period begins in late April and lasts until June. Flowers are bright pink.

    Slippenbach

    Slippenbach in Japan

    Natural habitat

    Spreading shrub. The leaves are rather large, reaching 10 cm in length and 5 in width. The color of the petals, depending on the variety, varies from pastel pink to glowing orange.

    Care and planting of rhododendrons in the Urals

    Care and planting of rhododendrons in the Urals is not much different from growing it in Siberia. Just like in Siberia, the following species take root here:

    However, it is advisable to buy zoned seedlings in the Urals, this will allow the plants to adapt as quickly as possible at the dacha. At first, in winter, plants are required to be carefully sheltered, even if the degree of their frost resistance corresponds to a given climatic zone.. After all, flower buds freeze out the fastest, and it will be a shame if the plant does not bloom after a harsh winter.

    Care and planting of rhododendrons in the Urals should not frighten beginner gardeners, because many Siberians have already achieved stunning progress in this seemingly impossible work.

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