The queen of gardens and parks rose long and deservedly loved by growers around the world. Decorates this flower and Russian landscapes. Climbing species are ideal for vertical gardening. Is it possible to grow beautiful and healthy roses in Siberia? Planting and care (photos and tips are presented in the article), properly implemented, as well as recommendations for combating diseases will help you to cope with this task.
Variety selection must be conscious
Before you start breeding roses, you should get acquainted with the varieties. Do not rush to purchase. After all, you can purchase seedlings through the Internet, and this greatly expands the range and gives you the opportunity to make a good choice. Examine the varieties, chat with roseboards on the forums, read the relevant blogs. With live communication with flower growers you can learn a lot of valuable information. Beginners in fact do not even always know what requirements plants must meet.
Often in the photographs in the catalogs of shops only the flower is visible. Its smell, shape of the bush, capriciousness in care or unpretentiousness - all this is very important. Does the flowering last for a long time, how friendly is it, do the flowers fade, what do they look like after flowering? Such information is not always available from the seller.
If a separate flower is shown in the photo, but the whole shrub is not shown, this may mean that the plant is not distinguished by abundant flowering or the shrub is unable to boast a decorative form.
Amateur gardeners, who are just starting to master this plant, always have many questions at first, for example: “Is it possible to grow roses in Siberia in the open ground?” Certainly, it is possible. And this is not so difficult as it may seem at first glance. The territory is huge, but severe frosts occur everywhere.
Difficulties in the cultivation of roses in a harsh climate
Beginners can be advised to pay attention to cold-resistant varieties. But growing roses in Siberia in a greenhouse is possible even in the northernmost regions.
In order for an undertaking to succeed, and a noble plant to bestow lush flowering, you need to know and follow some rules. If you assimilate them, but they are not complicated at all, they will not disappoint, and perhaps they will even become a favorite hobby for planting roses in Siberia. The dates of commencement and completion of garden work are related to the ambient temperature and the degree of warming up of the ground. Since in recent years the climate is unstable, this adds new questions on the care of a delicate flower.
For the most part, they all agree in determining the timing of planting, in caring for a safe winter, in the right fertilizer, providing long-term and abundant flowering, and in the fight against disease. As for such varieties as Rambler or Clymer, and these are quite common, unpretentious and well-grown climbing gardeners, planting and care of these species in Siberia is not difficult. However, their cultivation is accompanied by other - pleasant concerns, such as their design in the landscape.
Where to plant
They are light-requiring. Planting roses in Siberia in the fall should be carried out taking into account this feature. By the way, it is noted that if the shrubs are provided with the right care - watering, feeding, etc., then they feel great and bloom even in partial shade.
If you want to decorate a house wall with plants, then roses are not the most suitable choice. Near the house there is a high risk of undesirable temperature changes. On the one hand - the cold air of the street, on the other - the warm wall of the house. Thawing of snow or snow drift, icing during periods of thaw are likely. Such contrasts are detrimental to delicate plants. Even a good illumination of the southern wall may not save the situation. It is not worth planting roses near the walls at all. For them, a well-lit place with penumbra in the center or on the outskirts of the site will be more comfortable. If you really want to decorate the house, then plant bushes at a distance of at least a meter from the southern wall.
Dig a hole about 40x40x40 cm, put the complex fertilizer on the bottom. Roses are very sensitive to soil quality. If it is clay, fluff it up by adding sand, wood ash, humus, a little peat and leaf soil. If the soil is more sandy, then the manure, humus and leaf soil. These components will make it quite nutritious and moderately weighted.
Planting roses in Siberia is not a tricky business, and if you have a plant not grown on a stock, but a rooted plant, you may not be afraid that in the spring, instead of a cultivar, you will have a well-grown wild rose bush at the site. Try to choose the proper-rooted varieties, and in any case, root the neck by not less than 5 cm. It is also not recommended to go deeper, since the rose will release new roots from the grafting site, and it will grow much weaker at the roots.
Half or one third of the prepared soil mixture should be placed on the bottom of the pit, under the roots. Then you should thoroughly moisten the substrate, pouring water into the pit. Before planting, powder the roots with ash and place them neatly and evenly in the pit. Pour the rest of the earth onto the roots from above, trying to tamp well so that there are no large voids between them. Flow heavily again.
How to save seedlings?
Autumn is more suitable for planting and replanting adult roses. Planting and care in Siberia in the spring is the best time for plants obtained from cuttings, as well as for roses sent by mail and overwintered in a cold room at home.
You can start garden work immediately after the snow melts, when a shovel easily enters the ground. This is usually in April. Old bushes can be transplanted in the spring, but it is less advisable than in the fall - a long habituation to a new place can negatively affect flowering, and you think that the bush has degenerated or the place chosen is improper. But cutting in the spring always succeeds perfectly well. Harvest branches in the fall. Cut long shoots, bring them home and disinfect in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Store them in a basement in a sandbox. If there is no basement, then put in the refrigerator, in the compartment for fresh vegetables. To keep the shoots from drying out, wrap them in a damp cloth and then in polyethylene. In the spring they will be fresh and green.
Reproduction by cuttings
In April, when the snow melts, remove the thin upper parts of the shoots, cut the branches into 10-15 cm cuttings with buds on each, soak for 24 hours in water with potassium permanganate and can be planted. To get a guaranteed result, use a root.
To prevent spring frosts from destroying the plants, plant them in a sunny, sheltered from the wind with loose fertile soil. Cover each cutting with a plastic bottle: cut the bottom and use the top with a lid as a mini-greenhouse. Ensure that the ground is constantly wet. After a month, you can begin to air bottle-greenhouses, removing the lid for a while. With this you gradually accustom the plants to the natural atmosphere. Do it very carefully. For the formation of roots need heat, constant temperature, high humidity and lack of movement. Having become accustomed to such conditions and being in the fresh air, the pampered plant can not cope with a difficult adaptation and die.
It is believed that the appearance of the first leaves indicates rooting took place. Do not rush to rejoice. A bottle can only be removed after a couple of months. In addition, this whole year you will have to carefully take care of young plants - shade from the scorching sun, fertilize, prevent soil drying or water stagnation, protect from freezing.
Are there winter-climbing climbing roses? Planting and care in Siberia of many varieties of ramblers and kleymingov does not cause any particular difficulties, since they are characterized as undemanding and hardy. If you are a beginner, then choose your own-rooted variety grown in a local nursery.
I must say that the cultivation of roses in Siberia from cuttings is best possible with the Rambler. The most well-established varieties in the harsh climate include dorothy perkins, bobby james, and excelsa. Cutting can be practiced throughout the summer. For cuttings, twigs are drawn from the third quarter of the lash, the one near the end. Chopsticks are about the size of a pencil. Rooting in a greenhouse occurs within a month.
Ramblera are very convenient plants for decorating small areas. Their whips grow to five meters, they are very flexible and plastic. They twist around the support in a clockwise direction, trying to lay the branch horizontally. This technique stimulates the growth of new flowering shoots of roses. Planting and care in Siberia variety "rambler" suitable for beginner gardeners. Its flowers are small, terry, gathered in lush inflorescences, which are very densely covered with the whole bush. Flowering, though once, but very abundant, lasts almost a month. To make the flowers longer decorate your garden, with the beginning of flowering, stop feeding and watch the soil moistening under the bush.
Variety with fragrant flowers
Many gardeners appreciate musky roses. Planting and care in Siberia of this variety will be successful if you choose for them a place with loose neutral soil, well protected from cold winds and sufficiently illuminated. Traditional musky roses exude a strong aroma of amber. It does not come from the petals, as is the case with other varieties, but from the stamens, so even wilted flowers continue to smell sweet. However, they do not always have such a bright aroma. Many hybrids are more decorative than older varieties, but are odorless. Musk roses let out flexible whips up to 2,5 meters long. This allows you to use them to design arbors and arches. The best grades are mozart and ballerina.
Miniature climbing rose
Another charming example of climbing roses is the pirouette variety. Since its branches do not grow more than one and a half meters, it is often planted as a scrub - a single bush. Small flowers slightly apricot shades are collected in a brush. Reveal very amicably and so plentifully that foliage is not visible behind them. Flowering long. The aroma is gentle, pleasant, sweet, though weak. "Pirouette", almost does not suffer from powdery mildew and black spot, which often overcome roses. Planting and care in Siberia for this variety is also convenient because it refers to cold-resistant. A small shelter, however, is still needed.
It can be said monumental climbing roses. Planting and care in Siberia for this variety may be complicated by difficulties with shelter. Compared with ramblers, whose lashes reach five meters in length, climber pads are just babies. Their shoots do not outgrow the 2-meter mark. However, they are very thick and do not bend as easily as miniature ramblers. Twisting such an escape around a pillar or arch is very difficult. If you start a branch vertically up, it will bloom only at the upper end. Flowers are formed very abundantly, if the branch is located horizontally. In the flower garden they have a fan on the fences, grates. Thus, the growth of new flowering shoots is stimulated. If you want the roses to bloom as long as possible, then with the setting of the buds, stop feeding, and water in daily weather in dry weather. And climers are blooming luxuriously! Large fragrant flowers adorn the bush for almost a month, and for the remontant ones, twice a season. The best varieties are “elf”, “rosanna”, “pink cloud” and “pierre de ronsard”.
Shelter for the winter
How to save roses in Siberia in winter? Planting and care, watering and weeding, feeding and pest control - everything that you did in spring, summer and autumn may be in vain, and next year you will have to start all over again, including the search for a good, reliable bush if your bush has broken frost.
Cover the roses after the first frost, on a dry day. This is important because the shelter of wet bushes will create an unfavorable microclimate and the development of fungal infections. The shoots are removed from the supports and gently laid out on the ground. If you bend down the thick branches of the climber, then use the forks to dig up the ground. So it will be easier to turn the bush. No need to spread it on the ground quite low. Let it rise a little. Your goal is to dress the plants in a fur coat. Very well in the conditions of severe winters, non-woven materials such as lutrasila have proven themselves. Take the thickest and fold in several layers. Shrubs should be covered with a continuous veil, and not separate fragments. Along the perimeter, press down with bricks.
What begins the cultivation of roses in Siberia? Spring is the time when people buy new and open old bushes. Remove the shelter should be in several stages. First they air, then they open up, increasing time, and, finally, they completely take off. This is done in order to accustom flowers to new conditions. After removing the covering material, browse the whip and cut off the damaged or dead to healthy tissue. At this time, it is very convenient to loosen the ground around the rose and select the roots of weeds.
Do some special dressings require roses in Siberia? Planting and care in this region is somewhat more laborious than in Europe, but this is only associated with protection against freezing in winter. The rest is the same. In the spring, plants require a large amount of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Roses are very dependent on the microbiological composition of the soil and sensitively react to the lack of one or another element. As for the acidity, the weak acid (pH 5.6) will be just right for them. From mid-July, nitrogen fertilizing, enhancing the growth of shoots, should be stopped. Otherwise, by the winter there will be many young fragile shoots on the bushes that will not withstand the difficult winter - the affected tissues of the young shoots will become a breeding ground for infections that can provoke the death of the whole plant.
If there is an opportunity to feed the rose with manure, then make it in the spring, and it will repay you with excellent growth and flowering. Dumped manure and mullein - the best fertilizer for roses. Manure is a supplier of nitrogen, and the necessary potassium and phosphorus are in wood ash. In addition, for the proper growth and development of plants need calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, manganese and copper. Therefore, do not neglect the complex mineral fertilizers.
In September, it is recommended to add superphosphate or potassium nitrate under bushes for the last time.
Diseases and pests
It's time to find out how roses are sick. Planting and care in Siberia of these delicate plants are not very difficult, but the harsh climate weakens the immune properties of roses, and they can start to hurt. The most common diseases of climbing roses are black spot and powdery mildew.
This trouble is not as terrible as it seems, although it spoils the appearance of the bushes. Occurs most often in the second half of summer. The leaves are covered with black spots, then turn yellow and fall off. It starts from the bottom of the bush and gradually rises. In severe cases, it leads to the complete subsidence of the entire foliage. At the onset of the disease, it is enough to cut off the affected leaves and burn, and spray the bush with a weak solution of mullein (for one part of the mullein - 20 parts of water). Two or three procedures is enough. If a mullein was not found, buy drugs containing penconazole, triazole or mancozeb in the store. This could be Topaz, Profit, Skor, or Ridomil Gold.
The disease often affects roses growing in a greenhouse. In climbing roses, it occurs as a result of blooming as a result of too abundant watering in cool weather. It affects young parts. They are covered with a white mealy coating. Spraying the bushes with infusion of wood ash in this case is very effective. First you need to remove the affected leaves, buds and shoots, cutting them to healthy tissue. All this should be burned so that the pathogenic microflora does not resume activity. Cleaned bushes should be sprayed with a solution of ash, and after two hours wash it with clean water. For severe lesions, use of triazole containing drugs - “Scor” and “Topaz”.
What kind of roses should I choose for Siberia?
The climate features of Siberia are late spring, a small number of warm days, a severe winter, and strong Siberian frosts. Such conditions can withstand only zoned plants in a regional climate. therefore The first rule for gardeners is to purchase seedlings in local nurseries..
The basis for breeding frost-resistant varieties of roses for Siberia are Canadian and some hybrid varieties.
It is much easier to take root and endurance differ roses, grafted on the wild rose. It is characterized by strong immunity to disease, the ability to adapt to any conditions and quickly recover from damage by cold.
A good feature should be a scion. The best indicators in all respects show Canadian breeding varieties., derived from the climate of this country, similar to the conditions of Siberia. Roses for planting in Siberia should have high rates of frost resistance, resistance to diseases and pests.
Зимостойкость зависит не только от характеристики растения, но и от усилий садовода — правильный уход в течение сезона, регулярная подкормка минералами, правильная подготовка к зиме.
Особенности посадки роз
Поскольку в Сибири весна поздняя, грунт часто не успевает прогреваться до комфортной для корней температуры, их рекомендуется сажать на южной стороне участка. Для предупреждения выгорания бутонов желательно, чтобы растения находились в тени в часы самой активности солнца.
Для климата Сибири характерны холодные северные и западные ветра. Поэтому с этих направлений у розария должна быть защита. These can be walls of buildings, plants with a thick crown, gazebos or a hedge. So that the wind barrier does not shade the roses much, they are planted in some distance.
For the rose garden, if possible, select elevated areas.. In such places, the soil does not have time to freeze to critical temperatures and quickly thaws. This means that the roots will grow faster in spring, less likely to rot due to excessive moisture.
The planting season of roses in Siberia begins in May, when the ground warms up to 10 degrees
In Siberia, roses are recommended to plant in the spring. Event plan in the period from May 15 to June 15. At the same time, the air temperature should not be lower than + 10 ° С. The shoots of plants planted later than these dates do not have time to mature, which becomes the cause of death in the very first winter season.
The rest of the planting of roses in Siberia differs little from warmer regions. A planting pit is formed in the previously dug-out area for plants (50x50x50x) and the substrate is prepared. To do this, on a piece of film are mixed components.:
- humus 3 parts
- peat 2 parts
- weathered clay part 1,
- river sand 1 part,
- wood ash 400 g
Minerals add superphosphate minerals 300 g and potassium sulfate 30 g.
The roots of the seedling, longer than 20 cm, are cut and immersed in a growth stimulator for 3-4 hours. Rose is planted with the depth of the grafting site: for climbing roses by 10 cm, and for spray roses by 7 cm.
During planting at the bottom of the pit form a hill on which to establish a seedling and straighten the roots. After powdering the roots and sealing the circle of the barrel, 10 liters of warm water are poured over. After that, the spud bush to a height of 10-15 cm, the soil under the bush mulch with peat or humus. At first, after planting, seedlings should be protected from direct sunlight.
Basics of Siberian roses care
The roots of roses penetrate deeply enough. Therefore, plants do not require frequent watering. It is enough to hold it once every 3-5 days depending on the weather.. At the same time, the earthen room should be completely wetted, the rate is determined by the size of the bush from 10 to 20 liters.
Stop watering roses in mid-August
In the first year after planting, plants do not need additional feedings. In subsequent seasons, it is important to regularly feed the roses.:
- in early spring: aqueous solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g / 10 l),
- after 15 days repeated fertilizer ammonium nitrate, watering infusion of mullein (1:10), 4 liters for each bush,
- at the beginning of budding solution of calcium nitrate (1 tbsp. l. / 10 l),
- a week after that helpful foliar top dressing: solutions of double superphosphate, potassium nitrate, infusion of mullein or ash, macro elements to choose from,
- before flowering solutions of potassium magnesia or potassium humate,
- after flowering and sanitary pruning mineral complexes with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus (1 tablespoon l / 10 l),
- at the beginning of August a solution of organic matter, after 2 weeks of potassium-phosphorus complexes, and a week later with potassium sulfate.
- in September kalimagnezii.
In August, the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers is completely stopped.
The rest is seasonal care consists of regular weeding and loosening of the stem, forming and sanitary pruning. To prevent diseases in the spring and autumn, the bushes are sprayed with fungicidal solutions.
Spring pruning of roses grown in the Siberian region is carried out after the land is completely thawed (in May)
To stimulate the aging of shoots, watering is stopped from August. In the third decade of September, when the weather is dry, water recharge irrigation is carried out. The rate of water for one bush 40-50 l. Moistened in the deep layers of the soil slowly freezes and thaws, retains heat longer.
During this period, the loosening of the stem circle and the forming trim are stopped. This is to prevent the growth of new shoots.
Before the shelter, all the leaves and petioles of plants are removed, the undripe shoots are cut.
Before the cold weather is below 0 ° C, the shoots of roses are tied with twine and bent to the ground.. It is important to avoid contact of the branches with the soil, which leads to rotting of the stems, therefore they are fixed with the help of a wire hook.
Cover the roses as close as possible to the onset of frost to prevent debate.
On top of the prepared shrub set wooden shields in the form of a roof, securing them with pegs. The ends should be closed only after setting the temperature below -7 ° C. A thick polyethylene film is laid on top of the shelter and fixed.
The main cause of damage to roses in the winter - the effect of moisture on the plant. Therefore, arrangements for the shelter of roses are carried out only in dry weather, and in winter they prevent the air inside the shields from humidifying. To do this, with long thaws, the ends of the shelter need to be opened slightly.
Despite the capriciousness of the plants, gardeners admit that the cultivation of roses in Siberia allows you to create a special atmosphere in the garden. Only the first 2 years are considered especially difficult. As they grow older, getting the right care roses, they become much sturdier and do not require close attention.
The queen of gardens and parks rose long and deservedly loved by growers around the world. Decorates this flower and Russian landscapes. Climbing species are ideal for vertical gardening. Is it possible to grow beautiful and healthy roses in Siberia? Planting and care (photos and tips are presented in the article), properly implemented, as well as recommendations for combating diseases will help you to cope with this task.
What varieties of roses to choose for cultivation in Siberia
In the conditions of Siberia, only frost-resistant varieties of roses survive., bred in local nurseries, and even vaccinated varieties are amenable to cultivation, the rootstock of which is rosehip, as the most cold-tolerant plant.
The varieties of roses, which are most often found in the summer cottages of Siberian gardeners:
- "Burgund" - hybrid tea rose variety,
- "New Dawn", "Amadeus", "llse Krohn Superior", "Rosarium Uetersen" - climbing varieties,
- "Cinderella", "Red Eden Rose", "Bremer Stadtmuzikanten" - varieties of scrubs,
- "Leonardo da Vinci", "Midsummer", "Lions Rose", "Aspirin" - varieties - floribunda,
- “Gartnerfreude”, “Ice Meidiland”, “Bonica”, “Knirps” - ground cover roses,
- The varieties Harkness, Gillot and Ostinok can tolerate the Siberian climatic conditions, but they need special care, careful shelter, falling asleep with snow, high-quality feeding, etc. beginners to start growing roses of these varieties in Siberia is not recommended.
1 Description, types and varieties
The rose is the generalized name of all representatives of this flower ruler, belonging to the genus of rose hips. In the process of growth, they form bushes, which differ in height depending on the species. Some do not exceed 30 cm, others can reach 2.5 m. According to the type of shoots are divided into uterine and one-year. The standard classification is also not applicable to the shape of the leaves, it all depends on the type.
The appearance, color and size of flowers vary. There are buds from 2–3 cm in diameter to 15–20 cm (with the number of petals from 5 to 100). The color scheme is striking in its diversity, there are red, white, yellow, pink, black and even blue. The pride of breeders are roses, changing their color during flowering. There is a conditional division of varieties into classes. This helps to properly navigate and select the most appropriate option. Emphasis is placed not only on decorative indicators, but also on the place of intended cultivation - in the country, in the open field or at home.
Common varieties of roses, often used in garden design, depending on the group affiliation:
- Floribunda - Aprikola, Aspirin-Rose, Bengali, Black Forest Rose, Crescendo, Debut, Gebruder Grimm, Hermann-Hesse-Rose, Intarsia, Isarperle, Kosmos, Innocencia, Schone Koblenzerin.
- Ground Cover Roses - Bluhwunder 08, Heidetraum, Sedana, Mirato, Schneeflocke, Stadt Rom, Mirato, Schneeflocke, Sorrento, Stadt Rom.
- Scrubs - Comedy, Goldspatz, Flashlight, La Rose de Molinard, Larissa, Medley Pink, Pink Swany, Shining Light, Yellow Meilove.
- Hybrid tea roses - Elbflorenz, Grande Amore, Eliza, La Perla, Pink Paradise, Schloss Ippenburg, Souvenir de Baden-Baden.
- Clouds of large flowers - Golden Gate, Hella, Jasmina, Kir Royal, Laguna.
The main groups of varieties of garden roses:
Grow a rose in Siberia - is it possible?
Siberian regions are known for their harsh climate. Warm days do not last long. Spring ends late, and the ground has time to freeze over the winter. Then begins the ice drift, which is accompanied by a flood. Snow is melting, snowdrops bloom in some places. Residents can feast on wild garlic - its collection in Siberia is seasonal, because by the end of spring the stems become hard and lose their juice and flavor, and the foliage is not recommended to be eaten at all. The grass begins to grow, buds grow in the trees. The landscape changes from bright white to green, summer days begin. They do not last long, however, because of the contrast, the summer seems rather hot.
In the spring the leaves fall, in October the first snow falls. On the November streets are drifts that do not melt until next spring. And yet, the climate of Siberia is much milder than in the northern regions of our country. A lot of snow falls, which protects the soil from deep freezing. Planting is best done in the spring - the soil has already thawed, and summer should be enough to acclimatize and gain strength. It remains only to seriously grow and provide proper care throughout the entire period.
Choosing varieties for the Siberian climate
For such conditions, special varieties of roses are bred.adapted to growing in a harsh climate. In the first place are saplings that are grown in Siberian nurseries, and in the second place are saplings from Canada, since this country has similarities in climate. But unfortunately, Canadian roses are very often forged, so purchase should be made only from trusted suppliers. Another option to choose from is grafted roses. This plant is more resistant to weather and is much easier to tolerate harsh climate. As the root for vaccination usually take dogrose, and he, as you know, is much tougher than a varietal rose.
There are seven most preferred types of roses for Siberian florist:
- Korolev Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth).
- Rosarium Utersen (Rosarium Uetersen).
- Westerland (Westerland).
- New Dawn (New Dawn).
- William Shakespeare (William Sheakespeare 2000).
- Golden Celebration.
Chippendale - Spray Plant, from 80 to 120 cm in height, and in width reaches up to 100 centimeters. Terry inflorescences, where the diameter of a single bud is 8–13 cm, its color is bright orange. This variety is recommended to be planted in a huge flowerbed in the last rows.
Queen Elizabeth - subspecies of bush varieties. Reach a height of 230-250 centimeters. Flowers have the form in the form of a glass, visually terry, in pink color. Its width is 9–11 cm in width. In a flowerbed, the plant looks very neat and compact, so that it can be planted in small flowerbeds.
The variety William Shakespeare 2000 is one of the best types of red roses, it is bred by modern breeders. It grows in the form of a volume bush, whose height is from 100 to 120 cm. Its characteristic difference isthat young shoots bloom quickly. Brushes with flowering hold on the rose for 15 days or more. Terry flowers with a pleasant aroma have a red, rich color that gradually turns into purple. This variety is suitable for single beds.
Attention: when buying, be sure to specify the number “2000” in the name, as varieties without it have a weak immunity to infections.
The Golodín Celebreischen bush is spherical (120 cm wide) and reaches a height of 120–150 cm. The flower itself in a yellow-honey color reaches a large size. Its diameter is 14–16 cm. It has a pronounced and pleasant spicy aroma. Its feature is the rapid growth of shoots. This variety will look great on mixed curb beds..
New Dawn because of its unpretentiousness can grow in various conditions. This is a woven variety, plant height can be about five meters. For this type it is better to use a supporting support. Flowering is very long, starting from mid-June and continuing until late autumn. The bud's color is delicate, light pink, and up to 8 centimeters in volume. It is convenient to plant such a bush near a tree so that the branches hang loosely; in this form, the buds of the plant are best revealed and become lush. When buying, it is worthwhile to clarify the variety variety, as there are single-flowering bushes in the first days of summer.
Variety Westerland visually has a high volume bush form (1.5 m wide and 2 m high). The rose awakens in early spring, its flowering continues continuously throughout the warm period. An interesting phenomenon is the smooth transition of the color of the flower, depending on the season: from orange to pink. Buds, with a pleasant, bright floral aroma, reach up to 10 cm in diameter. Westerland is used in both bush form and in the wicker version. Looks beautiful in a lonely landing and is beautiful for its continuous flowering of buds. It is considered the most picky variety.
Very lush look Rosarium Hutersen is a climbing rose. Its width is about 200 cm, and its height is 250–300 cm. Ideal variety for spacious flower beds. A flower with a volume makhra, whose diameter is 12 cm. The condition for the bloom is the climate, the colder the weather conditions, the smaller the flower. The color is bright pink, with inviting and attractive pleasant smell. Cultivation of this type does not require much effort to care, because this climbing rose is not afraid of frost and winds.
Place to land on the site
In Siberia, there are quite a few sunny days all year round, and spring comes in late terms. Therefore, the place for planting roses is better to choose on the south side of the site. In a very open space, do not make a flower bed, but rather choose an area with a small shady shelter (somewhere under a tree). The ground should be with a slight elevation. (root rot from accumulated moisture may develop below). Fences, dense plantings, gazebos and other natural obstacles serve as protection from strong winds. Competent site selection is also part of good care.
Basic landing rules
In Siberia, the flowers are best planted in spring, in early May, when the soil warms up to about +10 degrees Celsius. The ideal time for planting roses coincides with the flowering time of dandelions. The first step is planting grafted bushes, as the root of the wild rose is not afraid of unforeseen frosts. Roses with own root it is best to plant from the middle of May, but you shouldn’t be late either, because during the summer period the plant root will not have time to harden and such a bush will not survive the winter.
The landing itself is practically the same as in other regions. The beautiful beauty of the garden prefers a slightly acidic soil, with a huge part of the humus. In the excavated pit, to further warm the root system, need to put manure (horse), and then lightly sprinkle on top of the soil.
Note: Do not plant plants.on openmanure, the root can burn!
Ideal soil for roses
The quality of the soil should be worried in advance.. The following ratio is the perfect composition:
- one piece of clay
- one piece of sand
- two parts of peat,
- three pieces of humus,
- half of the wood ash.
Good quality mail ensures quick and painless development of the plant!
During the landing should perform the following points:
- Pit for landing make a depth of about half a meter.
- Ready to dip the root in an aqueous solution, diluted with growth stimulant (leave for 4 hours).
- View the roots and cut longer than 20 cm - this process improves the lateral growth of new roots.
- Paraffin, which is above the ground, remove and cut branches to green.
- Bury the plant in depth.
These general guidelines are relevant to any variety.
English and tea varieties best take root if the place of grafting prikopat 8 cm, and not as usual - 5 cm. Roses vyushki even deeper, 13-15 cm. With such a landing of roses, in the winter they need less shelter.
Planted bush should be straightened, so that all the branches go upand there were no intersections with each other.
The plant should be tucked about 15 cm tall. Such a process is necessary so that water from the root system is maintained for the longest time. But also the ground protects the plant from the sun's rays. In very cold places of the North for salvation from frosts, the root is covered with lutrasil.
When and how to plant roses at the dacha at the Siberian latitudes
The climatic conditions of Siberia are as follows - late spring and short summer - it is important not to delay with the planting of rose bushesThe planting season starts from mid-May and lasts a month. The soil for planting roses should warm up to 10 ° C, an indicator of its sufficient warming up is the flowering of dandelions, if late, then the seedlings of roses will not have time to get stronger in the summer and freeze in winter.
When growing roses in Siberia, for their safe growth, the correct choice of landing site is of great importance. Rose bushes are better planted in elevated areas of the garden area, where the soil warms more, then the roots will quickly wake up in the spring. It is better to have a rose garden in the south side of the garden, there is more sun and less wind, however, the plants planted in the open area will burn out in direct sunlight, to avoid this, place the rose garden in the lace shadow of the uncommon “neighbors”.
The wind (north and west) can harm not only rose seedlings, but also adult plants. Стены строений, живые изгороди, беседки — все это подойдет для защиты колючих красавиц от холодного ветра, однако, не должно создаваться препятствие свободной циркуляции воздуха и прогреванию участка, отведенного под выращивание роз, солнечными лучами.
Советы садоводов по посадке роз:
- розы хорошо растут в слегка кислых или нейтральных почвах с высоким содержанием гумуса,
- a landing pit for a rose is recommended to be prepared in the autumn, and in the spring a prepared pit is poured over with water,
- in the hole for the rose they form a mound of soil and nutrient mixture, on which the roots of the seedling are carefully distributed,
- too long roots (over 20 cm) are removed,
- protective paraffin from the aerial part of the rose is removed, then the seedling is filled with soil so that the root neck of the bush is located 7-8 cm below the soil level,
- climbing varieties of roses, deepen by 12-15 cm,
- varieties of roses with high frost resistance can be less carefully covered for the winter, and watering should be carried out directly after planting the seedling,
- You need to pile up the plant to a height of 15 cm to slow the evaporation of water.
How to water and fertilize roses grown in the Siberian region
In the summer, watering grown roses produce 1-2 times a week., the ground should be well saturated with moisture (poured 10-20 liters of water), frequent and fractional irrigation contributes to the appearance of surface roots, they are sensitive to frost. When watering, the water should not fall on the leaves, so as not to provoke their burns and do not expose the plant to fungal diseases. Stop watering roses in mid-August, but remember that in October, before the "wintering", the soil should be sufficiently moistened.
The first fertilizer for roses is applied as soon as the snow melts.. Nitrogenous fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea) are used to fertilize roses grown in Siberia, and nitrogen fertilization is stopped from mid-July to prepare the plant for winter. During the growing season, roses are fed with micronutrients, calcium nitrate solution 1 time in 10-15 days. In rainy and cool weather they spray the plants.
In the first year, the root system of rose seedlings is actively developing and they do not need additional feeding.
When roses are cut in Siberia
Pruning roses in Siberian gardeners produce differently, some believe that pruning is necessary twice a year: in spring and autumn, others tend to spring pruning, explaining that in the fall pruning exposes the plant not only to stress, but also contributes to infection of the rose through the slice .
Spring pruning of roses grown in the Siberian region is carried out after the land is completely thawed (in May): dry, broken, sprouting and growing shoots inside the bush are removed. After that, the plant spud to protect against strong spring frosts. In order to avoid thickening of the bush, you need to pay attention to the location of the upper bud, it should be directed outward, on an adult plant it will be enough to leave up to 5 shoots.
How to prepare roses for the Siberian winter
Strong plants better tolerate Siberian frosts, therefore, the right care of roses is of paramount importance: do not pour and do not overdry the soil, timely feed up the rose garden with nitrogenous and organic fertilizers from the moment of discovery until the cessation of watering!
Cover the roses as close as possible to the onset of frost to prevent debate. with a stable snowy winter. As additional protection against low temperatures, more snow is piled on sheltered roses. As an artificial covering material, different types of greenhouses made of polyethylene film are used, in any case, the bushes must first be covered with spruce or cardboard and roofing material. Based on the experience of gardeners in Siberia, it is not recommended to use sawdust and small chips for shelter, since this material can snuff out at temperature differences, thereby destroying the whole bush.
How to open a rose
They take shelter from roses gradually, towards the end of March, when the snow begins to melt, especially if the snow was used as a cover so that the roses did not freeze. Melting snow carries with it excess moisture, which provokes the development of fungus. If your flowers wintered under a special shelter, as they melt, the snow becomes denser, becomes heavier, and can break the greenhouse and damage the seedlings. Still need to remember that roses, waking up, require fresh air. And if you start to open plants too late, they can simply suffocate.
Perhaps growing roses in Siberia and caring for them is troublesome, but all your efforts will pay off a hundredfold when you, while walking in the garden, enjoy the beauty and aroma of the queen of flowers.
When to plant roses
When is it better to plant roses in spring or autumn? Planting roses in open ground in Siberia is possible in both spring and autumn, but practicing gardeners prefer to plant this plant in spring. This is explained by the fact that for a successful wintering the plant must be strong, it is good to take root and be sure to go to the resting stage. Since the calendar autumn and the actual are often very different, it is not always possible to calculate the timing of planting a rose in the fall so that the plant does not actively start growing, throwing all its energy on forcing new branches. Such plants do not have time to ripen to the onset of low temperatures and automatically fall into the risk group.
Selection and preparation of landing sites
Any variety of roses, even the most patient for weather conditions, requires proper selection of a place when planting.
When planning the location of the rose bush on the site, preference should be given to the place, the maximum time during the day illuminated by the sun. If possible, protection from cold northern winds should be foreseen, the location of the plant on the south side of any buildings or low trees, bushes creating windscreen, but not shading the planting, will be a good location.
The rose is able to grow on almost any soil, with the exception of strongly acidic, sandy and heavy clay, but prefers light, well-fertilized, slightly acidic. At the same time, the plant is sensitive to the height of groundwater and marshiness, in such conditions, roses do not survive well, are ill, do not winter well.
In areas where the groundwater level is less than 1 meter, the terrain is warm in spring or autumn, planting roses in raised ridges is a good solution. Such planting will save the roots of the shrub from fading and rotting, and will provide a faster warming of the soil in the spring and slightly extend the short Siberian summer.
For spring planting the pit is better to prepare in advance, even in the fall. The size of the pit depends on the size of the plant’s root system, on average 50x50x50 cm. Since, under favorable conditions, many varieties of roses grow in one place for more than 25 years, it is better to fill the pit with nutrient soil, as well as planting fruit trees, providing the plant with a safety margin. A mixture of topsoil (humus), ready-made compost, rotted manure, sand, and wood ash is placed on the bottom of the landing pit.
Planting roses in Siberia
In spring, the planting of roses begins at the signal of nature itself - knowledgeable gardeners begin it from the period of dandelion flowering, and finish no later than mid-June. A later planting may not allow the plant to go through a period of growing wood, which is necessary for successful wintering.
Before planting, it is necessary to examine the sapling of a rose, and if it has had a time, the roots have lost turgor, it should be soaked in room temperature water for several hours. Damaged, too thin, as well as excessively long roots (more than 25 cm) plants need to be cut, after which it is useful to dip them in a clay mash for healing and better survival. The chatterbox, which is also used to treat the damaged bark of fruit trees, is made of clay and a mullein solution (2: 1), adding microbiological fertilizers or the results of the life of a vermifery gives a good effect.
If the roots of the roses were cut, it is recommended to shorten the plant stems to maintain a balance between the aerial and subsurface parts of the plant.
The planting pit for roses, prepared in the fall, is shed by water; a mound is formed from the nutrient mixture and the soil, onto which the plant roots are neatly distributed. The seedling is filled with soil with the expectation that the grafting site or the root neck of the rose is located 5 - 7 cm below ground level. After planting, plant spud earth, mature compost, moss 10-15 cm, protecting it from drying out. If the weather is sunny, for the first week - two plants it is useful to shade, as the young shoots develop, the shading is removed.
In Siberia, the care of roses includes watering, feeding, pruning and winterizing in accordance with the requirements of the variety.
During the growing season, the rose is demanding on soil moisture, but does not tolerate waterlogging. In the dry season, watering roses in the summer, held every 3-5 days, with a volume of 1-2 buckets. Frequent watering is gradually unfavorable for the plant, since it provokes the formation of surface roots that are easily damaged by frost in winter.
In the first year of the seedling's life, there is no need in top dressing - in the search for nutrients, the roots develop more actively, capturing space. In the future, spend up to 6 dressings per season. Among nitrogen fertilizers, manure and tinctures from it can be recommended, from phosphorus-potash fertilizers - wood ash, tinctures of freshly mown herbs. In cool, cloudy weather, the absorption of nutrients by the root system is reduced, at this time foliar dressings are more effective, spraying nettle tinctures, medicinal herbs, and microbiological fertilizers on the leaf.
Preparing the plant for wintering is reduced to autumn pruning and shelter roses. Detailed information about the autumn activities in the next article.