Pests and plant diseases

Plant chlorosis: what and how to treat


Chlorosis is a common plant disease. It manifests itself in premature yellowing of the leaves. The causes of chlorosis are different. The disease is harmful and dangerous for decorative indoor and for garden green crops. In order to treat a plant, you must first correctly diagnose the disease.

Probable causes of the disease

Leaf chlorosis is the process of reducing chlorophyll, which at the cellular level provides photosynthesis, i.e. processing of sunlight into plant nutrient. The disease can occur in virtually any herb, shrub or tree. The most prone to chlorosis are:

  • all citrus fruits (especially lemon),
  • azalea,
  • the Rose,
  • ficus
  • gardenia,
  • petunias
  • hibiscus,
  • hydrangea.

Attention! If you grow these cultures, get ready for a periodic struggle with the yellowing leaves.

Violet, plum, apricot have a peculiar immunity to illness. But they also fall into the risk group under certain conditions.

Chlorosis is divided into infectious and non-infectious. The most common symptoms are:

  • young leaves turn yellow, streaks remain green,
  • the sheet plate is reduced in size,
  • the edges of the leaves begin to curl
  • leaves die off

  • flower buds are also deformed and dried,
  • The shoots above are shrinking,
  • roots stop development and die off without treatment.

Variants of how to overcome the disease of an infectious nature

The soil bacterium Polymyxa (through a gardening tool) and insects, such as leaflets, aphids, nematodes, and cicadas, carry the infectious type of leaf chlorosis. Pests and their metabolic products are visible upon careful study of the plant. Fungal organisms leave characteristic growing spore formations on the green. Identified pathogens of chlorosis in the garden - prepare fungicides. Suitable for all permissible culture chemicals.

Preventive disinfection of soil is carried out in the spring using iron or copper sulphate, nitrafen. Prevention site - it is clean and tidy. If cases of infectious chlorosis of the leaves have already been in your area, treat the planting or seed material. Prevent wintering of harmful bacteria on tools, deep in the soil, fallen leaves. Garden tools should be disinfected in the autumn after all the work is completed:

  • clean up
  • pour boiling water
  • rub with alcohol
  • leave stored in a dry place.

Types and causes of non-communicable diseases

Such chlorosis can occur for the following reasons:

  1. Lack of micronutrients in the plant in the soil. It is primarily about iron. Sulfur, magnesium, lime, zinc, and nitrogen are also important.
  2. Mechanical injury of the roots.
  3. Lack of oxygen in the soil thickness. This happens with poor drainage.
  4. Heavy rain or excessively dry weather.
  5. Exposure to low temperatures.
  6. Heredity.

Proper diagnosis of the source of chlorosis is half the battle in treating the disease. The best option is to take the soil for laboratory analysis. Otherwise, you will have to look at the external signs:

  1. The appearance of yellowness on the leaves with green veins. Chlorosis develops from top to bottom. It means that the culture lacks iron. Sometimes this happens when there is an excess of lime in the soil.
  2. The same symptom develops from the bottom up through the plant. This is a sign of magnesium deficiency. This happens in sandy soils.
  3. Along with the main part of the leaf, the veins turn pale. The first due to chlorosis yellow young greens. Symptom of lack of sulfur.
  4. White streaks on the lower leaves. Lightening does not occur from the edge, but from the center. This is a nitrogen deficiency. For example, with the natural oxidation of the soil or excessive fertilization with ashes.
  5. In the spring, light spots appeared on the lower leaves. A sign of zinc deficiency that occurs when the soil is saturated with nitrogen.
  6. Along with the loss of color, growth is slowed down and the ovaries and buds die off. This is how calcium chlorosis is manifested.

Prevention and treatment of non-infectious types of disease

The easiest way to restore plant health is to compensate for the lack of trace elements and organic matter:

  • there is a lot of magnesium and iron in wood ash,
  • a lot of magnesium in the water remaining after washing the cereals,
  • nutrients in a large assortment contained in onion broth,
  • Ferrylene, Micro-Fe, Ferrovit are optimal in case of iron deficient chlorosis of leaves,
  • Mag-Bor, Kalimagneziya, magnesium sulfate, dolomite flour treat magnesium chlorosis,
  • potassium sulphate, azofosk with sulfur, potassium magnesia - sulfuric,
  • nitrogen deficiency is compensated by ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate, carbamide, sodium and calcium nitrate,
  • zinc reserves will replenish superphosphate with zinc and zinc oxide.

Council If the reason for the symptoms has not been identified, experts advise treating the site with fertilizers of universal action: Mortar, Aquarine, Kemira Lux or Universal.

With the same drugs it is useful to carry out prevention of leaf chlorosis. Especially if the symptoms of the disease manifested in the garden in previous years. During operation, strictly follow the dosage and instructions for use of any funds.

How to treat chlorosis

How to help sick green pets? This requires foliar and root dressings with formulations containing iron chelate. It is best to apply spraying on the sheet, since the effect in this case is achieved faster.

You can feed the plants with ready-made preparations that you can find in our market by clicking on this link.

The main signs of chlorosis

Young leaves begin to turn yellow quicklywhile leaving bright green streaks,

  • Sheet size decreases,
  • You can watch the sheet plate quickly curl and lose its natural shape,
  • Frequent abscission of leaves and flowers during flowering,
  • The shape of flowers and buds is changing,
  • The development of the root system is worsening, in some cases the roots may die off completely or partially,
  • Quickly dry the upper parts of the shoots.

Plants that are most likely to suffer from chlorosis

The disease may have a very selective nature. Some types of plants may never be affected by this disease, others are constantly ill. So, for example, violets, can withstand the disease for the rest of their lives, a gardener may never notice his marks on his plantings.

But there are also plant species.which are most susceptible to the disease:

Having on the site of some of these plants, you need to constantly be alert and try to inspect their leaves and stems from time to time. Best if seen the very initial stages of the disease, it will help to deal with it faster and easier

Prevention of chlorosis

In order to minimize the risk of disease in plants, it is possible to carry out continuous preventive measures. For example:

Choosing the right substrate for plants.

The quality of the soil has an important role in the life of any flower or tree. It should be primarily light and have good moisture permeability. If the soil is too dense or heavy, it can become alkalized. This will cause chlorosis.

Monitor soil reaction

It is important to observe the acidity of the soil. Plants that are prone to chlorosis grow, as a rule, in acidified soil. If acidity begins to rise, the development of the disease cannot be avoided. It is necessary to constantly dilute the composition of the soil with various useful components.

From time to time, water the plants with acidified water.

In the opposite case, if the acidity of the soil is too low, it is necessary to try to fix it with improvised methods. For this, the method is well suited. watering plants with a little acidic water. It can be prepared by adding a small amount of citric acid. It is enough to water the planting once a week with a similar solution.

Treatment of chlorosis with special preparations

If the plants are already sick, according to the preventive measures will not give any result, it is necessary to proceed to treatment. First, it is recommended to try to change the soil, adding to its composition the required number of different elements. After that, you need to choose drugs that will help asthenia cope with this disease.

Such drugs as:

  • Ferovit,
  • Agricola - helps to cope with the strong yellowing of the leaves,
  • Ferrylene,
  • Iron chelate,
  • Antichlorosis

The action of all these medicines is aimed at eliminating the causes of chlorosis. Treatment is usually carried out by spraying the leaves with an aqueous solution of these substances. Within a day after the procedures, you can notice the first small improvements.

You can also use these drugs to irrigate the soil in which the plants are located, this also has a positive effect, but it will begin to manifest no sooner than after a week, so you have to be patient and wait a bit.

Preparing the medicine yourself

You can try to cook Chelate iron independently at home. It is not difficult. To prepare the solution will require:

One liter of boiled water, pre-cooled to room temperature,

Four grams of citric acid, you can use the most common powder, which is sold in stores,

Two and a half grams of vitriol,

All the ingredients are mixed, the resulting solution can be watered or sprayed the leaves and stems of plants.

It is possible to store the cooked iron chelate for no more than two weeks, then its beneficial properties are lost forever.

I have long wanted to grow different plants in the country. Usually I only had flowers, but I wanted something more. Having selected several species of fruit plants and planted them, I was faced with such a problem as chlorosis of plants. The leaves of my plantings quickly turned yellow and spoiled. I was advised to use special solutions, spray from time to time the leaves and plants in general. Very pleased that this procedure helped.

Leaf chlorosis is a real attack for the gardener. When I had just started planting plants on the plot I did not know what measures to take and how to fight it. Of course, when some experience appeared, it became much easier. I learned how to properly prepare the soil before planting, and by most significantly protecting the plants from being able to pick up this unpleasant sore. I want to say that it is necessary to constantly be alert and when there is a suspicion that chlorosis starts to develop emergency measures.

Found on their site plants that are sick with leaf chlorosis. My husband and I read a lot of literature on how to properly treat them. Fed with drugs that have improved the condition of our plantings. I want to say that chlorosis is not such a difficult condition, you can cope with it if you try.

Leaf chlorosis (photo gallery of plants with identified developmental disorders)

Chlorosis is not a deadly disease, and if you see its appearance in time, you can successfully cure a diseased plant by taking certain actions. But for this you need to know what caused this disease, and what methods of protection should be applied in each case.

The most common causes of chlorosis:

  1. Lack of nutrition of trace elements and minerals. This is probably the very reason that occurs most often. Plants usually lack elements such as iron, zinc, magnesium, lime, sulfur and some others.
  2. Infection. The plant can become sick with chlorosis and because of the infection, which he brought insects, flying from a diseased plant to a healthy one. It can be spores of fungi, microorganisms, various viruses.
  3. Conditions of care and landing. Sometimes chlorosis occurs due to damage to the root system of crops, lack of drainage, poor soil conditions and other growth defects.
  4. Hereditary chlorosis.

In order to carry out the correct treatment, it is necessary to determine the true cause of the disease, which is rather difficult to do.

How to find out which microelement is missing in culture?

There are many types of chlorosis, each of them is caused by the lack of one or another element in the plant nutrition, but which one exactly? This moment can be accurately determined only by making special analyzes in the laboratory, which is not possible for an ordinary gardener. Therefore, in order to determine what the culture lacks, they are guided by external signs.

In general, for any type of chlorosis, symptoms such as shrinking of the plant, a noticeable slowdown in its development, clotting of the leaves, dying of the bark on the trunks of shrubs, and the dying off of new shoots from the culture appear. The state of the “green brothers” must be constantly monitored in order not to miss the initial moment of the disease and correct the situation.

What plants are most susceptible to nutrient deficiencies?

The answer to this question is unequivocal - absolutely everything. The lack of any trace element in the diet immediately affects the growth and development of the plant. And it concerns both domestic crops and those growing on open ground. Still, there are plants that are most susceptible to nutrient deficiencies, which, if not to take emergency measures, may die from chlorosis.

Those most susceptible to chlorosis are:

  • At home - varieties of flowers such as hibiscus, various types of citrus, azaleas, rubber plants, gardenias.
  • Under natural conditions, these are fruitful shrubs, such as raspberries and currants, trees - pear and apple trees, flowers - petunias and roses. As for vegetables, cucumbers and tomatoes are the most capricious in this area, and strawberries and grapes are among the berries.

How to prevent chlorosis?

The nature of chlorosis is different. But in any case, to prevent this disease in plants, it is necessary to take certain measures. And here everything comes down to the proper preparation for planting and timely optimal care of the planted crops. To prevent chlorosis, you need to know its type and carry out certain actions. But it does not hurt to hold all the preventive measures.

Chlorosis is divided into:

  • Non-infectious. This type of chlorosis is associated precisely with the lack of trace elements in a plant of one type or another. If it is impossible to find out exactly which element is lacking in the crop, then use ready-made complex fertilizers. In them, the combination of trace elements is balanced. It is possible to distinguish such drugs as Florist Micro, Uniflor Micro, Zdraven.
  • Infectious. In this case, special attention should be paid to such a process as decontamination, and of all - the soil, tools, seeds. As a precautionary measure of the disease in the soil before planting, it is desirable to add biofungicides. They are also used for the treatment of planting material, increasing its stability.

But garden tools should be rinsed with boiling water or wiped with a cloth moistened with alcohol. Also at risk of infection with infectious chlorosis and pests - vectors of infection. Protection against them is carried out with the use of plant repellents and, as we have said many times, with the help of increasing plant immunity.

General recommendations for the application of dressings

When carrying out the “treatment” of cultures infected with chlorosis with the help of solutions, fertilizing, fertilizers, etc., one should always observe the recommended amount and dosage indicated on the package and not go beyond this. After all, an overabundance of any element, like its deficiency, can also lead to dire consequences for culture.

If it is not known exactly which element is lacking in culture, it is best to start using low-dose complex fertilizers, which contain the main nutrient elements, the shortage of which occurs in plants most often. Bio-master, Mortar, Universal, Akvarin - these are some of the popular complex feedings. But most of all we trust Uniflor fertilizers - they gradually give away minerals, without contaminating the soil with salts. Yes, and then they were refused, but more on that later.

It is not at all necessary to resort to store-based drugs - plant nutrition can also be effectively carried out with handy tools that are rich in essential trace elements. For example, the ash generated from burning wood (namely wood, straw, leaves, and not any plastic) is very good as a feed for flowers, because it contains a sufficient amount of magnesium, iron, phosphorus. The ashes are either mixed with the soil when the plant is planted / transplanted, or the top layer of soil is sprinkled with ashes.

As for irrigation, for these purposes, the following home-made solutions have proven themselves well:

  1. One tbsp of ash per liter of water.
  2. Water, which washed cereals.
  3. Onion peel, boiled in water, and infused for 2 hours.

But, even when treating chlorosis with the help of such seemingly harmless means, one should do it in dosage, observing the plant's response to feeding. It is clear that after seeing the chlorotic signs on the plant, the first reaction of the beginning gardener will be an attempt to save the seedling.

But try to look wider: most likely, due attention was not paid to soil fertility in your site, excess salts have accumulated in it, and urgent measures are needed not to treat the plants, but to improve the soil microflora. Then our project “ECO Garden for All” will help you in finding information on how to restore the soil and introduce the principles of organic farming on your plot. (Oh, it smacks of a little self-praise. But what to do? Should we save the site, and let it be our joint efforts, eh?)

The full recovery of the culture after the treatment can be observed only when new young green leaves appear on the plants, not spoiled by a white, yellow, orange color. Well, the previously damaged leaves, of course, will not be painted again. We hope, according to the proposed photos and descriptions, it will now be easier for you to determine what caused the chlorosis of the leaves of your plants.

Leaf chlorosis in home plants: causes

It should be said that this disease develops gradually. Therefore, its beginning is very easy to miss. This is the "deceit" of the disease: it sneaks up on the sly. If the florist does not take any measures, gradually the situation is aggravated, and the signs become more and more noticeable. The disease can occur for the following reasons:

  • Genetic disorders
  • Pathological processes occurring inside the plant at the cellular level,
  • Unsuitable acid-base soil balance,
  • Poverty of the soil in the pot,
  • A diseased or weakened plant does not absorb iron well from the soil.

Finding out the reason for which the flower is sick, you need to immediately begin treatment. If the disease is not treated, the root system will gradually begin to break down and deform, and then any treatment will be powerless.

What is the danger of this disease

Many novice growers believe that this disease does not deserve special attention, because it is not an infection. However, this is just a common misconception. In fact, the disease is much more dangerous than infections, fungi and parasites. The main danger of this disease is as follows:

  • A plant deficient in iron slows growth. It can not normally grow and develop,
  • Weakened, it soon ceases to bloom,
  • A room flower weakened by the disease becomes more susceptible to infectious diseases,
  • The disease adversely affects the general condition of the flowers.

Any gardener should know the main features of this dangerous disease. Read about the main symptoms can be on the Internet and in specialized literature for amateur growers. There you can also find photos of leaves, flowers and stems of indoor flowers affected by the disease. Symptoms of the disease are visually similar to the symptoms of other diseases, however, there are significant differences.

Chlorophyll synthesis is a vital process for any flower. If this process is disturbed, it begins to suffer. It is chlorophyll that gives the stalks and leaves of flowers a green color. Chlorophyll is necessary for respiration, nutrition, growth and development. Its value can be compared with the value of blood for a person. In this regard, any diseases of indoor plants that violate the synthesis of chlorophyll must be promptly treated. If the problem is resolved in a timely manner, the plant will safely recover and the symptoms of a dangerous disease will gradually disappear. But this should be done as quickly as possible. Otherwise, you can be late.

Signs of chlorosis

Chlorosis is not a fatal disease, it can be easily cured if you see characteristic symptoms in time.

Diseased culture is easily identified by the following features:

  • leaves decrease in size,
  • young leaves turn yellow, only veins remain green,
  • the edges of the sheet plate are twisted,
  • the shape of flowers and buds changes,
  • development of the root system is deteriorating,
  • apical shoots dry out.

Causes of development

If time to notice the manifestations of chlorosis, the plant can be successfully cured. To do this, you must know the causes of the disease, and they may be as follows:

  1. Insufficient amount of minerals and trace elements in the diet. Most often in the soil is not enough iron, zinc, magnesium, sulfur, lime.
  2. Infection brought by insects, fungal spores, various viruses and microorganisms.
  3. Damage to the root system, poor soil condition, lack of drainage and other germination defects.
  4. Hereditary chlorosis.

Types of disease

There are many types of leaf chlorosis, the difference of which is reflected in the lack of a certain element in the plant nutrition. To determine which microelement is missing, you should focus on external signs.

  1. Iron chlorosis. The most common type of chlorosis is iron deficiency. Characterized by yellowing sheet plate. The color of the veins remains saturated and bright. First of all young shoots are affected. The cause of this disease may be limestone soil.
  2. Magnesium chlorosis occurs with an insufficient amount of magnesium, for example, due to sandy soil type. The disease manifests itself in the same way as if there is a shortage of iron, but it is not the young leaves that suffer, but the mature ones. Symptoms in this case are similar to mosaic disease. Leaves gradually begin to change color. First, the edges are affected, then the whole plate. Greens often acquire an orange or red hue.
  3. Sulfur chlorosis can occur from a lack of sulfur in the diet. In this case, the veins of the leaves turn yellow or turn white. Then the color of the whole sheet changes.
  4. Nitrogen chlorosis. The first signs are whitened streaks of the lower leaves. Further, the discoloration systematically captures the entire leaf plate, starting from the middle. Lower leaves wither and fall. Lack of nitrogen can cause excessive ash deposition or increased acidity. The reason may be the introduction into the soil has not yet decayed organic matter.
  5. Zinc chlorosis. This disease manifests itself in the form of spots, initially spreading on the lower row of leaves. Most often, the plant is exposed to the disease in the spring due to excess nitrogen in the soil.
  6. Calcium chlorosis causes plant growth to stop, flowers, buds and ovaries to fall off. Tomatoes appear “tip rot” in the form of round necrotic spots.

Plants susceptible to chlorosis

All plants are susceptible to nutrient deficiencies. This applies to domestic crops, and those that grow on the open field, and even aquarium. But some plants are the most susceptible and, if they do not take emergency measures, they can die from chlorosis.

Most prone to disease:

  • hydrangea,
  • hibiscus,
  • various citrus fruits
  • ficuses
  • azalea,
  • gardenia,
  • primrose,
  • raspberry and currant,
  • apple and pear,
  • roses,
  • petunias
  • tomatoes,
  • cucumbers,
  • grapes
  • Strawberry.

Homemade iron chelate

Easy to make iron chelate do it yourself at home in two folk ways:

  1. Dilute 10 g of vitriol in 1 liter of water (not to be confused with copper). Add 20 g of ascorbic acid. Spray and water chlorine plants with this solution.
  2. In one liter of water dilute half a teaspoon of citric acid. Add 2.5 g of ferrous sulfate. It turns out a light orange liquid containing a complex salt of ferrous iron. This solution is used for spraying and watering plants.

Shelf life of homemade iron chelate is 2 weeks.

One of the unconventional and very common methods of dealing with chlorosis in the home is instillation of rusty nails in a plant pot. Here the main thing - the presence of rust.

It is always better to be proactive in order to prevent illness through timely feeding and quality care.

I take iron chelate in ampoules, liquid and dilute it in a 0.5-liter bottle, pour it into a spray bottle and process the plants when there is no sun. Effectively enough

I added vermiculite to the soil with microelements that kill chlorosis. The plant can not replant, it is enough to remove the top layer of soil and add soil with vermiculite. Ferite-containing iron, feed the plant under the root. I personally used ferovit and very pleased with the result.

I can tell from my own experience how I treated passiflora. After making a complex of fertilizers with a high nitrogen content, he noticed that the leaves on the plant began to curl. Poured a complex solution with: manganese -4.2%, iron-8.14%, copper-0.5%, boron-1.6%, zinc -1.0% cobalt-0.2%, molybdenum -0 ,one%. Improvements were noticeable after a day. On the leaves almost lost chlorotic stains, they turned around.


  • 1. Listen to the article (soon)
  • 2. Description
  • 3. Treatment
    • 3.1. Control measures
    • 3.2. Prevention
  • 4. Fight
    • 4.1. On tomatoes
    • 4.2. On cucumbers
  • 5. Treatment on fruit crops
    • 5.1. On grapes
    • 5.2. On raspberry
    • 5.3. On strawberry
    • 5.4. On an apple tree
    • 5.5. On peach
  • 6. Fight on flowers
    • 6.1. On hydrangeas
    • 6.2. On petunias
    • 6.3. On roses
  • 7. Preparations
  • 8. Folk remedies

Chlorosis disease - description

The characteristic signs of this disease are:

  • - premature yellowing of young leaves, despite the fact that their veins remain green,
  • - the manifestation of small-leaved: new leaves grow smaller,
  • - twisting the edges of the sheet plate,
  • - fall of leaves and flowers,
  • - drying of the tips of the shoots,
  • - changing the shape of buds and flowers,
  • - deterioration of the root system, and in advanced cases, even the death of the roots.

The causes of chlorosis may be several. Exists infectious chlorosis caused by fungi, viruses and other microorganisms. Its carriers are pests. Functional, or non-infectious chlorosis of plants can occur when violations of the technology of cultivation, as well as as a result of adverse climatic or soil conditions. Such, for example, as a deficiency in the soil of iron, magnesium, zinc, sulfur, lime, nitrogen, proteins, or the acidity level of the soil, at which the roots are not able to absorb the minerals they need. Non-infectious chlorosis can also be caused by poor soil drainage, which causes the roots of the plant to become soggy, as well as damage to the roots, the cramped root system, or exposure to sulfur dioxide.

Chlorosis can occur as a mutation and is inherited, which is often used to develop variegated forms of ornamental plants.

Chlorosis Control Measures

In the treatment of non-infectious chlorosis, the missing elements are introduced into the zone located in close proximity to the roots of the plant. They also use foliar fertilizers, that is, spraying the sick specimens with micronutrient solutions on the leaves or injecting them into the trunks and branches with the help of an injection. How to treat chlorosis? With a lack of iron in the soil, the plant is treated with Ferovit, Ferrilen, Micro-Fe or Iron Chelate. If there is a lack of magnesium in the soil, dolomite flour, magnesium sulfate and the drug Mag-Bor will help to correct the situation. Kalimagnesia, Azofoska with sulfur, potassium sulfate and Diammofoska with sulfur are used for sulfur chlorine - as you can see, these preparations include not only sulfur, but also nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium and sodium (we warn you that it is impossible to make nitrogen-containing fertilizers during the flowering period) . A shortage of zinc in the soil can be eliminated by adding zinc sulphate, zinc oxide and superphosphate with zinc, and the plant’s calcium chlorosis can be saved by adding crushed eggshell, wood ash, and quicklime to the soil. You should know that nitrate nitrogen enhances the flow of calcium in plant tissue, and ammonia reduces.

Infectious chlorosis is incurable, that is, there is no cure for it, so the diseased specimen will have to be destroyed as soon as possible, until the bacteria have moved to neighboring plants.

Chlorosis disease - prevention

Mineral and organic supplements are used to prevent chlorosis. If you do not know which element is missing in the soil, you can use complex fertilizers containing all the necessary substances: Kemiro Lux, Florist Micro, Uniflora Micro and others.

In order for plants not to get sick with viral chlorosis, it is necessary to disinfect garden tools before and after their use with boiling or technical alcohol, to decontaminate the soil before sowing or planting, as well as planting and planting materials with fungicide solutions. And, of course, requires constant pest control.

Tomato chlorosis

If tomatoes grow and develop too slowly, and their leaves turn yellow, curl and fall, the thought immediately comes to mind that tomatoes lack moisture, but this may be the first signs of non-infectious chlorosis. Determine which element is missing plants, you can on these symptoms:

  • - if there is a shortage of nitrogen, the growth of the bushes is limited, the shoots quickly woody, the old leaves first brighten and then turn yellow, the fruits ripen quickly, but they are much smaller than usual,
  • - if the tomatoes lack Phosphorus, the growth of the bushes also slows down, the main shoot becomes thinner, the leaves form small, with a violet shade and with curved edges. Then comes the necrosis of the leaf plate, and the leaves fall,
  • - due to the shortage of KALIA, the edges of old leaves look like burnt, then the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and after them the chlorosis affects the younger leaves. Brown-black streaks appear inside the fruit,
  • - Calcium deficiency in the soil first appears on the upper leaves: they turn yellow, young leaves are deformed, dotted necrotic areas appear on them, which gradually merge. Fruits are affected by top rot,
  • - when there is a shortage of CU, and this usually happens when growing tomatoes on peaty soils, old leaves turn white, new leaves grow small, shoots weaken, underdeveloped flowers crumble,
  • - BORON deficiency can cause the dying off of growth points, the formation of a large number of stepsons, which leads to an abnormal bushiness of tomatoes. Dry areas are formed on fruits
  • - from the lack of MAGNESIA on the old leaves appear yellow-green spots, which gradually turn gray, and then turn brown. The leaves dry and fall off, the stalks dry out, the fruits become shallow and ripen before time.

To cure tomato chlorosis, you need to determine what element they lack, and bring it into the soil or process the tomatoes on the leaves with a solution containing the necessary element.

If chlorosis is of viral origin, immediately remove the affected bushes, burn them, and spill the place where they grew, with a solution of a fungicide or potassium permanganate.

Chlorosis cucumbers

Chlorosis of cucumber leaves is manifested by yellowing of the vein and the edges of the leaf plate, and this does not necessarily arise from a lack of iron in the soil. It is difficult to determine the cause independently, and even harder to get rid of it, especially since it may take a lot of time. And the harvest will not wait. Therefore, it is easier to prevent chlorosis. How to do it? Two weeks before sowing or planting seedlings, it is necessary to add plant humus to the soil: first, it contains all the nutrients that cucumbers need, and second, it will transform all the elements necessary for the plant to a soluble form, third, to humus, unlike mineral fertilizers, there is nothing that could harm cucumbers. Compost in large quantities is applied to the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm, after which the bed is watered, allowed to stand for a few days, and then cucumbers are planted.

Chlorosis grapes

Chlorosis on grapes is called pale numbness: as a result of the development of the disease, the plant's ability to produce photosynthesis decreases, growth slows down and yield sharply decreases. The cause of non-infectious chlorosis can be primarily the alkaline reaction of the soil, due to which the plant's roots are unable to absorb iron, although, in addition to carbonate chlorosis, zinc, magnesium, copper, sulfur or manganese chlorosis can develop on the grapes. The development of the disease contributes to the accumulation of hydrogen sulfide in the soil, which often happens on impermeable heavy soils, especially in rainy and cold weather.

Infectious form of chlorosis (otherwise it is called yellow mosaic) is caused by nematode parasite worms, but this incurable disease is not so common on grapes.

Signs of chlorosis of the leaves on the grapes are located between the veins of spots of various shades of yellow - from lemon to cream. Old leaves become discolored, young ones become acrid-yellow and cease to develop, the leaves gradually dry up, fall off, the internodes on the new shoots develop shortened, the berries in clusters are small, and the winter hardiness of the shrub generally decreases. The symptoms of chlorosis on grapes are especially noticeable in spring and late summer.. To make sure that you are dealing with non-infectious chlorosis, apply a grid or other pattern with iron chelate on a bleached sheet plate, and in a day it will appear on a pale sheet in bright green.

Non-infectious chlorosis of grapes is treated with a whole range of activities. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to grow pale-resistant grape varieties, such as Muscatel, Cabernet, Saint-Laurent, Elbing, Pinot Meunier, Trollinger, Riesling, Traminer, Pinot Noir, Limberger and others. Самым нестойким к хлорозу сортом является сорт Сильванер. В целом, европейские сорта винограда более устойчивы к болезни, чем американские.If you want to significantly reduce the likelihood of chlorosis in your vineyard, sow clover, alfalfa or sideratny cereals around the bushes, which improve the chemical composition of the soil.

If, despite the preventive measures taken, the disease still manifested itself, the black vitriol from chlorosis as top dressing and spraying the grapes with iron salts on the leaves will help restore photosynthesis, but will not solve the problem to the end. In addition to weekly spraying, it is imperative to increase the ventilation and drainage of the soil: dig the ground between the rows and cover it with mulch. Eliminate the groundiness of the soil by ferrous sulfate and potassium sulfate. Lime chlorosis is treated with preparations that contain iron in chelated form, ammonium sulphate is introduced into the soil, and the bushes are sprayed with a solution of sulfuric acid. In the spring under each bush make a pound of iron vitriol. And do not forget about potash-phosphorus fertilizer and foliar treatment of the bushes with microelements - manganese, zinc and other substances necessary for the plant.

If your grapes hit the yellow mosaic, then sick bushes need to be dug up and destroyed as soon as possible, because the crop is minimal and the risk of infection by the virus of neighboring plants is very high. As a preventive measure, treat the soil and grapes during flowering with iron sulfate.

Raspberry chlorosis

Raspberry chlorosis is also infectious and physiological, caused by a lack of elements or a state of the soil, in which the roots cannot even absorb the substances that are in it. To provoke the development of a non-parasitic form can, for example, by pouring cold water on a raspberries.

Signs of chlorosis on raspberries are the same as on other cultures: light or yellow spots appear on the leaves, which, increasing in size, cover the entire leaf plate and move to the plant shoots. Bushes affected by viral chlorosis, immediately destroyed. To prevent the virus from appearing in your raspberry jam, you should take preventive measures: plant healthy and disease-resistant planting materials, regularly weed and loosen the aisles, apply fertilizer to the soil, dry the wet areas and process the raspberry jam in a timely manner against sucking insects that are carriers of the viral infection. Before blooming buds, raspberry bushes are sprayed from aphids with a 3% solution of Nitrafen, and before flowering, and no less than 45 days before harvest, with a solution of Methylmercaptophos prepared in accordance with the instructions.

The physiological nature of raspberry chlorosis is carried out by determining its cause: if the humidity is too high, they reduce the watering of raspberries, and if alkalinization is done, plaster is applied to the soil at the rate of 100-120 g per m². Raspberries are watered with water heated by the sun, and fertilizers in chlorosis are mainly nitrogen-containing. From the fresh manure as a fertilizer it is better to refuse at all, potash fertilizers should be applied in the minimum dosage. An effective measure against non-infectious chlorosis of raspberries is the introduction into the soil of forest litter, humus, compost or peat, as well as watering the raspberries with a solution of bird droppings, for which 1 part of the litter is dissolved in 10-12 parts of water.

Strawberry chlorosis

Garden strawberry appears on strawberries for the same reasons and is manifested in the same way as on raspberries. For the prevention and treatment of non-infectious chlorosis, which has arisen due to iron deficiency, strawberries are treated with preparations of organic live farming: Chelatin or Ferovit. Approximate consumption of the drug - 12 ml per bucket of water. Water the bushes need to root. Leaves strawberries treated with a solution of iron sulfate. Watering and treatment with iron-containing drugs begin as soon as symptoms of chlorosis are detected.

Most often, chlorosis occurs after liming the soil, especially if you contributed too much. Or if the soil contains a large amount of copper, which is an antagonist of iron. To make sure that the cause of chlorosis is iron deficiency, draw some number or letter Chelate iron on the yellowed piece of paper, and if the diagnosis is correct, the drawing will appear in bright green color in a day.

It is pointless and even harmful to treat infectious chlorosis: you will waste time, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring plants during these days. The main sign of a viral yellow mosaic, in addition to yellowing of leaves and shoots, is the formation of too short internodes. When new leaves and sprouts appear without yellowing signs, it may seem to you that the disease has left your plants, but do not be deceived by it: there is no recovery from viral chlorosis.

Chlorosis Apple

Chlorosis of trees in symptoms almost does not differ from chlorosis of fruit and berry or garden plants: the same pale or yellow spots on the leaves, while the veins on the leaf plates remain green, then the dying off of the tips of the leaves begins. As in the case of other plants, the cause of non-infectious chlorosis of apple trees is most often the lack of iron in the soil or the condition of the soil in which the roots of the tree cannot absorb this element. However, in order not to be mistaken, it is better to check the list of signs:

  • - If the leaves turn yellow from the top of the shoots, this is really due to iron deficiency. In this case, an apple tree in two or three doses at intervals of 10-12 days is sprayed on the leaves with iron chelate or Ferovit, Agregol and Brexil preparations, and the soil composition is improved with iron vitriol: watering the pristvolny circle with a 100 g solution of vitriol in a bucket of water. With a strong fast, you can make injections of the trunks with iron sulfate, drill small holes in them, pour the medicine into the holes and seal the holes with cement,
  • - if faded leaves appear in the lower part of the branches, then the cause of chlorosis is nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers will help to solve the problem, and best of all organic fertilizers, for example, mullein solution: 5 kg of rotted cow manure are added to the tree trunk circle,
  • - yellowing of the leaves of young apples in the middle part of the shoots is due to a lack of potassium. The problem can be solved by adding potassium sulphate to the stem at the rate of 25 g of fertilizer per 1 m²,
  • - a clear yellowing of the plate between the green veins and the presence of a necrotic border and dark points on the leaves is a symptom of a lack of manganese and magnesium. It is necessary to add dolomite flour and wood ash under the apple tree, and treat the tree with a solution of manganese sulphate (0.05%) and magnesium sulphate (150 g per bucket of water),
  • - General yellowing of the crown of the apple tree indicates a lack of sulfur and oxygen in the roots of the tree. The lack of sulfur is compensated for by the introduction into the soil of gypsum, ammonium sulfate, magnesium or potassium, Ammophoska, manure or humus. With regard to poor aeration of the roots, frequent loosening of the soil in the tree circle and mulching the surface around the tree with organic material can help.

The cause of chlorosis is evident only at the initial stage of the disease.and when the disease spreads throughout the tree, it will be very difficult to determine the cause of chlorosis.

Viral chlorosis in trees can be in the form of a mosaic or chlorotic ring spot - two diseases caused by different pathogens. With mosaic chloroticity is manifested not only on the leaves, but also on the shoots and on the fruits, and it looks like clearly pronounced spots and stripes. Fruiting is delayed, the harvest is almost halved.

Ring spots characterized by dot yellowing of the leaves. Small spots, losing the green pigment, form rings both on the leaves and on the fruits. The leaves are deformed, the growth of the apple tree slows down, the shoots are shortened, the trunk does not thicken, the hardiness of the tree is greatly reduced.

It should be said that viral diseases, which often affect plum, cherry and raspberry, are rarely developed in apple trees.

Peach chlorosis

Peach is very sensitive to iron deficiency, so chlorosis often affects it. At first, peach leaves are made yellow-green, then chlorotic signs appear even on the leaf streaks, and the disease covers the entire crown, causing premature leaf fall and death of the tips of the shoots. The trees affected by chlorosis lose frost resistance, and the following year shoots are poorly formed and suffer from kametetecheniem: bark rupture occurs, cracks form, glue starts to stand out, branches dry out, the growth does not appear. Glue capsules should be removed with a sharp sterile knife, and the wounds should be cleaned, disinfected with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, rubbed with sorrel leaves (food or horse) and covered with a mixture of clay with a fresh mullein (1: 1) or just clay.

It is necessary to fight directly with chlorosis, that is, with a deficiency in the soil of iron, using the same methods as for apple disease.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Chlorosis of garden hydrangea occurs primarily because of a lack of iron in the soil. If no measures are taken, the plant begins to weaken as a result of a metabolic disorder, its leaves turn yellow and brighten, although the veins remain green. It is desirable to take measures against chlorosis even before he declares himself, it’s not for nothing that disease prevention is the key to the health of both people and plants. If hydrangea shows signs of chlorosis, it is necessary to immediately treat it with leaves with iron chelate or Agrecol, Micro Fe, Brexil, Ferovit, and Ferrilen. If the disease has gone far, iron-containing drugs contribute under the root. A good effect in the treatment of hydrangea from chlorosis gives two-three times a day watered the plant's circle with a solution of 40 g of potassium nitrate or iron sulphate in 1 liter of water.

Petunium chlorosis

The signs of chlorosis in petunia are the same as in any other plant: the leaves begin to turn yellow, while the veins remain green, the edges of the leaves curl, the leaves fall, and the new ones develop small, the flowers change shape, the roots of the shoots begin to die off . At the first symptoms, start adding citric acid to the water for irrigation (half a teaspoon of acid per 1 liter of water), but if there are no changes for the better, add half a teaspoon of iron sulphate to the solution. This composition is watered the soil, and not the petunia itself, until new leaves start to develop healthy. To speed up the healing process, remove all buds from petunia until they have opened. Instead of iron vitriol, you can use other preparations containing iron. Some gardeners also recommend spraying the plant on the leaves, but this advice causes suspicion: petunia does not even tolerate raindrops, so what about the solution of trace elements?

If chlorosis is viral, you have to say goodbye to petunias.

Rose chlorosis

Even yellowing of the leaves and bright green veins on them are a sign of chlorosis in roses. If you did not overdo the last season with chemical fertilizers under the roses, then most likely the reason for such changes in iron deficiency. What is interesting: one of the two bushes growing alongside one may lack iron, while the neighboring one feels great.

Chlorosis treatment should be started in spring, before the growing season: a mullein or humus and a missing element are introduced into the soil under the bushes. In the future, roses affected by chlorosis are not fed with nitrogen fertilizers, they are watered very poorly and foliar fertilizers are administered by complex fertilizers in cloudy weather until the plant recovers. During this period, do not do radical anti-aging pruning bush.

Drugs for chlorosis

We offer you a brief description of the drugs with which you can cure non-infectious chlorosis.

  • Iron chelate - microfertilizer, which is a chelated iron, which allows plants to fully absorb this element,
  • Chelatin - microfertilizer, in which iron is contained in chelated form. Used for foliar treatment and root dressings in the fight against chlorosis,
  • Ferovit - a universal stimulator of photosynthesis and respiration of plants, used for the prevention, treatment and protection against indoor chlorosis, fruit and ornamental crops and containing a highly concentrated solution of iron chelate,
  • Brexil - A series of meso-and microelements and their compounds in the chelate complex, specially designed for the treatment and prevention of chlorosis with foliar supplements. The series includes drugs such as Brexil Ca (with calcium), Brexyl Mg (magnesium), Brexil Mn (manganese), Brexyl Fe (iron) and so on,
  • inkstone - sulphate of iron-II, antiseptic, fungicide of contact action and at the same time microfertilizer containing chelated iron,
  • Orton Micro-Fe - universal microfertilizer for foliar feeding of garden and horticultural crops, containing basic trace elements and iron in chelate form, eliminating the manifestation of chlorosis and contributing to increasing plant resistance to adverse environmental conditions and diseases,
  • Ferilin (Ferrilen) - universal chelate fertilizer for foliar fertilizing of vegetable, fruit and berry, ornamental crops and flowers, which improves the synthesis of chlorophyll by plants,
  • Agrecol - a multicomponent mineral concentrated fertilizer for indoor, balcony and garden plants with symptoms of chlorosis on the background of iron deficiency.

Folk remedies to combat chlorosis

Folk remedies for the treatment and prevention of chlorosis are not yet known. Although ... There is one clever way to improve the health of a plant suffering from iron deficiency in the soil: rusty nails are buried under a bush. It is argued that this technique helps even when scientific methods are useless.