Pests and plant diseases

Ways to fight the onion fly


Growing a large, beautiful and healthy onion is not an easy task. It is necessary not only to properly care for him, but also to deal with pests. The most malicious of them is considered the onion fly. A seemingly harmless insect is capable of destroying the onion crop.

Pest control measures

All varieties of onions are damaged by pests such as the onion fly and the onion hoverfly. Do not disdain, and garlic, happy eating spicy flesh, gnawing tulip bulbs. To get rid of them, use different methods.

Measures to combat these types of pests are the same, so they can be considered as a common fight against the onion fly. It is known that if nothing is done during the invasion of these pests, then you can be left without a crop of onions and garlic, and this is absolutely not included in the plans of gardeners. Insect pest control includes:

  • agrotechnical methods
  • preventive measures
  • chemical processing
  • folk ways.

All of them are quite effective if used on time and correctly.

Onion fly

It resembles the usual indoor and cabbage fly. Body length - 5-7 mm, color - yellowish-brown. In all other respects, it is not much different from other imagos.

In late April - early May, females begin to lay eggs. They hide them under the lumps of the earth on an onion bed, attach them between the leaves of weeds or in the feathers of a young onion. When the larvae appear, and this is literally a few days, they penetrate the bulb — penetrate through the base of the leaf or bite from the bottom. Small white caterpillars about 10 mm in length more resemble worms and are very voracious. They are absolutely not affected by phytoncides contained in the bulb and frightening other pests. During the season, from 1 to 3 generations of flies develop.

Pest larvae develop about 20 days. During this time, they manage to inflict significant damage to onion plantings. Then they go into the ground for pupation, and the damaged bulbs rot. This can be seen in the yellowing and withering feathers. If you pull out such an onion, it is easy to see the larvae and feel the disgusting putrid odor.

Onion hover

This is also a fly. It can be distinguished from the pest species in question by a bronze color and spots on the upper side of the abdomen. The spots are light, semi-lunar form, arranged in pairs.

The hoverfly larvae look very similar to the larvae of the onion fly, but differ in color - greenish-gray. They eat away the moves in the bulbs, causing the latter to rot and die. The method of laying eggs is the same as for

Agrotechnical control measures

  • Before planting, seed is treated with special preparations or soaked in a strong solution of manganese.
  • Early landing will help reduce the percentage of pest infestation. The earlier the onion is planted, the less it is damaged by the larvae. A very good effect gives landing on peat soils, but they are not everywhere.
  • Timely weeding, combined with loosening, will reduce the number of potential egg laying sites.
  • Plants infected with a fly must be removed from the bed and destroyed along with the larvae. Usually they are burned.
  • Deep autumn digging throws pupae onto the surface of the earth and some of them die during the winter frosts.
  • A good result is given by watering the soil with a 0.2% chlorophos solution. This can be done no later than 20 days before harvesting or using onions for food.

Preventive methods

  • If it is correct to alternate the beds with different vegetable crops, then the risk of infection can be greatly reduced. Get rid of this pest is easy, if you put onions near the carrot beds. It is noticed that the smell of carrots for some reason scares away the considered insect species and it does not lay eggs next to it.
  • If you plant a little mint or valerian near an onion bed, it will also scare away the pest. It is noticed that onions grow well between beds with tomatoes. Onion fly does not touch it, flying around the side.
  • After planting the soil is desirable to mulch. It is good if it is peat, rotted manure or conifer needles. The sharp-smelling needles do not like the fly, and peat and dung are a bad environment for laying eggs.
  • It is not necessary to plant onions in one place, even if it was not infected. Changing the landing site is a good preventive measure that will save not only from the onion fly, but also from bacterial diseases.

Folk remedies

These means concern sparing methods of struggle. They are used for prophylaxis and in cases where pest resettlement is not critical. They are safe and can be used repeatedly without any harm to plants. There are a lot of them.

  • Wood ash. When burning dry branches, cut in the spring, there is always ash. It is collected, sifted and used in the fight against various pests. It is enough just to powder the beds so that the onion fly does not lay eggs. You can make an infusion of ash - 2-3 glasses per bucket of water. It is used for watering at the root. Trace elements contained in the ashes, will serve as additional fertilizer.
  • Vinegar. Tanks with diluted acetic acid are placed along the beds. Vaporizing in the sun, the vinegar emits a sharp odor that repels insects.
  • Tobacco dust. This remedy is also scattered like ash over the beds, dusting the plants. Can be used in a mixture with ashes. For spraying prepare a solution - 200 grams of tobacco dust per 10 liters of water. In order to keep the product well on the feathers of onions, 30 grams of soap can be added to it, it can be liquid. All ingredients are added to boiled water, and then infused for two or three days.
  • Ammonia. A tablespoon of alcohol is diluted in 10 liters of water and watered the beds. A strong smell scares off the pest. The method is used weekly, protecting the respiratory tract mask.
  • Table salt. The use of salt is a moot point, but many amateur gardeners argue that the method is very effective. The usual salt is dissolved in water - 200 grams per 10 liters of water, and watered with a bulb solution under the root. The amount of liquid is exactly such that the earth is soaked to the ground of the bulb. Watering once a week, but not more than three times per season. After 3-4 hours the plants need to be watered with clean water. When using this method, there is a great danger of salting the earth, so it is better to do it by other means.
  • Manganese. A saturated pink solution of manganese is sprinkled on the seed bulbs immediately after planting. After 10 days, the procedure is repeated. The third watering also after 10 days, he must guarantee complete victory over the pest.
  • Kerosene, turpentine or tar. When using these tools, the calculation of a strong smell, which should scare away the fly. Rows are watered, 2-3 times per pest breeding season. The method is doubtful, as it can spoil the soil.
  • Dry mustard. It is mixed with wood ash - 1 part of mustard into 3 parts of ash, and scattered on the beds. Processing is carried out 2-3 times.
  • Marigold. If marigolds are planted next to an onion bed, their smell will protect the planting from the onslaught of pests. The specific aroma of these flowers deters many pests. The marigolds bloom later than the fly begins to lay eggs, therefore it is necessary to plant them with seedlings, which should be taken care of in advance.
  • Dandelions. An infusion of roots and flowers scares off the pest if they spray a garden bed. It is prepared very simply. During the week you need to insist 200 grams of dandelions in 10 liters of water. You can pour the solution under the root. This is a good tool that can always be found next to your site.
  • Soda. Baking soda is mixed with salt and added under the root. It is believed that the mixture is deadly for the larvae, but it makes it difficult to water. Together with the water the mixture will fall into the ground, which will adversely affect it.

It is important to remember that folk remedies only deter the said pest, and not kill it. For the destruction of the pest using insecticides. They do it in extreme cases when it is impossible to cope with the pest otherwise.


Like many pests, the onion fly is a small insect in length not exceeding 7 mm. Color gray closer to ashen. Visually, the insect is very similar to an ordinary fly. Its years begin with the establishment of steadily warm weather, that is, the last decade of April or the first of May. Another external marker that gives the farmer a signal to be vigilant is cherry blossom. It is at this time that the insect begins its seasonal development.

A fly may have wings with 2-3 longitudinal streaks or without them. But in any case, the edges are “decorated” with the fringe of their thin long hairs. Segmented belly - 11 parts.


Reproduction occurs through the egg laying, which the female lays nearby onion plants. They are elongated white in color up to 10 mm. Hatching occurs after 3-8 days depending on external conditions. Larvae emerge from the eggs, immediately burrowing into the bulb. Paths of penetration can be different - through the base of the leaf, through the bottom, where the roots grow. Onion fly larvae for the entire period being in this form live inside the bulbs, devouring the internal tissues. Interestingly, if many individuals go out at once, they are kept in a group and critical damage is caused to the plant. During the transitional period from the fixed larva to the imago, there is an intermediate stage of development, when the insect resides in the analogue of the pupa with the rudiments of wings.

The female is very prolific - if necessary, emergency measures are needed.

Important! Sexually mature female lays eggs almost all the time. At one time, the uterus can produce from 5 to 20 eggs. All in all, the onion fly lays 40-60 eggs during the life cycle.

Young stock

In the form of a larva, the insect stays about 3 weeks. After this period, the larva leaves the plant and goes into the ground near the corroded bulb to pupate. This phase lasts 20 days, after which young flies fly out of the pupa. Based on these data, the logical conclusion is actualized that the fight against the onion fly should begin as early as possible. In practice, there are cases when this parasite destroys 100% of the plants on the onion plantation. By the way, he attacks on garlic.

Important! During wintering, the pupal insect is buried in the ground, and the depth can be from 5 to 20 cm.

Signs of pest presence

Know how to deal with onion fly need not only to those who plant onion planting in the open field, but also greenhouses. It affects the pest of onions of the first and second year, as well as the culture of any variety grown under the film. In the planting of the first year the insect sucks the juice from the tender leaves. If the population has multiplied, then on the bed is determined by a large number of leaves that have lost the rottenness, hung, with yellowed ends or twisted spiral. If the parasite is not destroyed in a timely manner, then in the plants of the second year not only the leaves are affected, but also the stalks, as well as the seeds. In the greenhouse, this insect is still moving on cucumbers, which can lead to significant damage to the culture.

Onion Fly Remedies Must Be Targeted at the Larvae

Chemical fight

For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that for summer residents who work in their beds only on weekends, information is more interesting than to process onions from onion flies using high-speed chemicals. The treatment must be made exclusively according to the schemes indicated by the manufacturers on the packages.

The front sight can completely destroy the whole crop.

Attention! The most effective preparations for onion flies, as well as against other garden pests, contain such a component as metronidazole. In its pure form, it has the appearance of a greenish or white crystalline powder.

  • Processing onions with moderately toxic agents will help protect bees and other beneficial insects from death. We are talking about spraying drugs "Intavir" and "Iskra".
  • Aktara is another broad-spectrum insecticide. Differs in an economic expense and duration of protective effect. Possesses a purposeful action against concealed animals or insects living on the lower parts of plants.
  • "Zemlin" - a tool that must be used when planting onions. Made after mixing with sawdust or sand.
  • "Tarantula" - a potent drug that destroys both adults and larvae. Acts very quickly on the acute contact-intestinal principle. The protective effect is provided for 21 days.
  • "Extraflor". The drug is of a biological nature - in fact, we are talking about a solution of tobacco extract. It will destroy the fly and at the same time get an environmentally friendly crop. The protection period is 15 days. It does not accumulate not only in plants, but also in the ground.

Tip! There is an opinion that the pharmacological drug Piperazin can be used to control pests in the beds. The tablets dissolve in water and this solution is used to water the plants. We want to note that this tool does little to help, because it has a completely different purpose.

You have your own opinion about how to process onions from a malicious fly. We would be grateful if you describe your methods to fix this problem.

Pest description

Onion fly (Delia antiqua) similar to the usual housefly. Her body on average reaches a length of 6-7 mm and has a yellowish-gray color. The first flight of this pest occurs in the second half of spring and coincides with the flowering period of dandelion.

Onion fly. Photos from the site

The females of the onion fly lay eggs in groups (7–12 pcs.) On the onion plantation so that future larvae can easily reach the tasty vegetable. They arrange egg-laying both on the onions themselves (between the scales on the part of the heads protruding from their land) and under the lumps of soil between the rows.

After several days, white legless larvae hatch from eggs, reaching length of 10 mm. They are heading straight to the heads of the heads, they are embedded in the pulp of the onion and begin to eat it from the inside.

Onion fly larvae. Photo from

After 2-3 weeks, after eating their fill, they emerge from the bulbs and pupate in the soil at a depth of 15-20 cm. And after another 2-3 weeks, a new generation of harmful flies flies out of these pupae and everything starts in a circle.

In favorable seasons with moderately warm weather and sufficient rainfall, onions can be attacked by 2-3 generations of this pest. With the mass reproduction of the fly in one bulb several dozens of such disgusting worms are found at once. Damaged heads soften, rot and become completely unfit for human consumption.

Bulbs damaged by onion fly larvae. Photo from

Methods of struggle

To combat the onion fly, you can use drugs of chemical origin, such as “Alatar”, “Aktara”, “Sochva”, “Lukhoed” and others.

The simplest and most effective method of dealing with an onion fly is regular dusting of plantings with ordinary ash. Such a product always remains at the disposal of summer residents after burning the branches left over from pruning and various weeds.


Ash plentifully poured into the aisle between the rows on moist soil, and then close up with a hopper. It is enough to carry out such a procedure every 2 weeks and the onion fly will not dare to come closer to the tasty vegetable.

Tobacco dust

Does not tolerate this pest smell of tobacco. To scare off unwanted insects, you can purchase tobacco dust in the store and sprinkle this odorous product between the rows of onions during the season with an interval of 10-14 days.

Tobacco dust. Photo from

It is better to carry out the procedure several hours after the next watering, and then loosen the soil around the plants and close the tobacco dust into the soil using a hand hopper.

A lot of good reviews can be heard from summer residents who have outlived the onion fly from the garden with the help of table salt. This method does work, but it requires caution in its application, since an excessive introduction of salt into the soil can have a detrimental effect on the development of plants.


If you notice the first signs of pest activity in the garden with a bow, or rather, you have removed a couple of rotten bulbs from the ground, go to the kitchen. A faceted glass of table salt needs to be dissolved in a bucket of water and pour on the solution with a solution like a root on the previously moistened soil. After a few hours, it is necessary to wash off the remnants of the salt solution from the above-ground part of the plants, and also to shed plenty of clean water between the rows. This procedure is carried out no more than 1 time per season.

It will help to scare a malicious wormwood out of an onion bed. This odorous weed grows throughout the entire territory of our country, so it will not be difficult to get it.


Freshly stalks of wormwood can be simply laid out between rows of onions and periodically replaced with new ones as they wither. And you can make a “slaughter” infusion from them. To do this, take 1-1.5 kg of fresh branches of wormwood, crushed, pour 10 liters of water and infuse for 2-3 days. Полученный настой процеживают и обильно проливают им луковую плантацию из лейки. В качестве профилактики появления мухи процедуру проводят раз в 10-14 дней.

Среди огородников пользуется большой популярностью такой метод борьбы с мухой, как смешанная посадка лука и моркови. In this case, it turns out mutually beneficial cooperation of these vegetables: the carrot with its aroma deters the onion fly, and the smell of the onion does not bring the carrot fly closer.

Onion fly scares off the smell of carrots

I also tried to plant these vegetables alternately - pests and the truth was not. But I did not like this approach for another reason. A couple of weeks before the onions are harvested, it is necessary to completely stop its watering, so that the heads are dosed out in dry soil, and the moisture-loving carrot could not withstand such a test.

Therefore, I have slightly improved the method. Onions and carrots are also planted close to each other, but now I alternate them not through a line, but I divide a bed along and on each side, soot 3-4 long lines of each vegetable. The effect is the same, but now I can safely continue to water the carrot half of the garden in July without fear of wetting the onions.

The same effect on an annoying fly is produced by fragrant tagagetes (marigolds) planted near onions. For planting on a garden bed, low-growing varieties of this ornamental plant are more suitable.


They are sown around the perimeter of an onion plantation, but an even greater effect can be achieved if, at the stage of planting a seed plant, to allocate transverse grooves inside the bed for the seeds of marigolds. They can be alternated every 2-3 lines of onions.

Pine needles

Onion fly does not tolerate the aroma of pine needles. Moreover, it is not only the smell of fresh needles that frightens her off, but also the smell of coniferous litter. In order to prevent the onion fly from laying eggs next to the vegetable, it is good to mulch the garden bed with pine litter immediately after germination.

Pine litter

No less effect can be achieved if at an interval of 10-12 days plentifully spill onions between rows of infusion with infusion of young pine twigs. For its preparation, a 1/3 bucket is filled with crushed pine branches, filled with water and left to stand for 3-4 days under a lid. After this infusion filter and after the next watering the beds shed this odorous medicine between the rows of onions.

Young pine branches

The following substances do not quite correspond to the concept of absolutely eco-friendly - after all, they were created by man, and for other purposes. But these tools are not dangerous and have been tested by thousands of summer residents.

Everybody knows that naphthalene, with which we fight the home moth, can help out in the garden in the fight against the onion fly. Today, this product with a bright smell is most often sold in the form of balls. This packaging is convenient when used at home, but for use in the garden they must be crushed.


The powder obtained from 8-10 naphthalene balls should be mixed with ½ buckets of sand and sprinkled with onion plantation with this mixture. The procedure should be carried out every 7-10 days during the flight and laying of a dangerous pest.

Scare the dirty fly from the onion smell of kerosene. To do this, you need to pour 200 ml of kerosene into ½ bucket of sand and mix the contents thoroughly. It is necessary to act in rubber gloves, otherwise it will be difficult to rid the hands of the smell of this “fragrant” potion.

Kerosene. Photo from

If you put such a mixture in the inter-row of an onion every 10-12 days, the pest will not risk approaching the vegetable and on a cannon shot. By the way, one should not be afraid that the onion will suffer from such a means - the smell of kerosene is not transmitted to the heads and does not affect the quality of the crop.


Another effective tool in the fight against onion fly - ammonia. This medicine is in the pharmacy penny, and brings great benefits.

Ammonia. Photo from

To get rid of the pest that has already appeared, it is necessary to water the planting with a solution prepared from 3 tbs. With an interval of 4-5 days. spoons of ammonia and 10 liters of water. For the prevention of onions damage by fly larvae, it is enough to carry out such a procedure every 10-12 days. But it is worth remembering that ammonia will act as a nitrogen fertilizing plant, so these activities need to be completed before mid-June.

Onion fly only at first glance seems to be an invincible garden pest. If you systematically apply the above methods on an onion bed and alternate them during the growing season of the vegetable, the fly will have nothing else to do but move to other lands - away from your “fragrant” vegetable garden.

Pest biology

Let us find out what an onion fly is in order to understand how to fight it. This is a two-winged insect from the family of flower flies. Its body gray in length ranges from five and a half to seven millimeters. The life cycle of a fly with a complete transformation.

Reference! Insects with complete transformation go through the following stages of development: egg, larva, pupa, imago.

As it happens in many species of insects, the feeding of imagoes and larvae is divided according to the food object. If adult insects feed exclusively on pollen from flowering plants, their voracious children prefer bulbs of lily cultures. And most often affected onions, whose juicy scales are mostly eaten by the larvae.

In addition to the turnip onions, the pest of the onion fly can affect such daylilies:

  • tulips
  • leek,
  • garlic,
  • chives
  • batun,
  • and others.
Larvae in onion feather

Overflowing in the depth of the soil, up to 20 centimeters, the larvae of the onion fly with spring warming are selected outside of their puparia and turn into adult insects. Biologists point out that fly flies coincide in time with the flowering of dandelions, apples, cherries, elderberries or maple.

Reference! Puparium is a false cocoon of some species of flies, in which an insect hibernates ready to fly.

First, the flies gain strength by feeding on pollen, and then the female lays eggs on the soil near the seedlings of the bulbous plants, as well as on dry scales of bulbs, feathers or leaf sinuses. Each female is able to lay up to fifty eggs, and the duration of spring summer can last up to one and a half months. So, to determine exactly when your plants may be infected with fly larvae is difficult.

The egg is incubated for 3-9 days depending on the ambient temperature, after which the hatched larvae penetrate the inside of the bulb. Moreover, their penetration paths are different:

  • under the scales near the exit of the pen,
  • through the bottom.

In any case, the larvae, having made their way inside, begin to feed hard, eating the bulb from the inside.

Struck onion

The larva stage of an onion fly lasts from ten to twenty days. During this time, an insect can kill more than one plant, since, eating one bulb, the larva will not fail to move to the nearest of the neighboring ones.

After this, pupation of the larva occurs, and it turns into a pupa. In this generation, the onion fly also lives for 10–20 days, after which a new transformation into an adult insect occurs. Begins the so-called July years of onion flies.

Reference! In the southern regions even 3-4 generations of flies per season can occur.

Signs of defeat

The fight against the onion fly should begin immediately if the following signs of damage appear:

  • the tips of the onion feathers first turn white, then turn yellow and dry,
  • observed a general inhibition of onion plants,
  • there was an unpleasant putrid odor near the onion beds.

If you notice something similar, you need to pull out a few plants and consider them more attentively; the fly larva is easy to see with the naked eye, because it is quite large - up to one centimeter in length, looks like an ordinary medium-sized maggot.

Such an anomaly may also indicate defeat onion fly

Useful activities

Second in turn, but not least, how to deal with onion fly folk remedies, let's call the method of combined planting. Almost every gardener knows that carrots and onions affect each other beneficially, each of the crops scares away the pest of its neighbor: a carrot fly and onion carrots. In addition to carrots, other umbrella or celery crops can be planted with onions in this quality:

  • leaf and root parsley,
  • parsnip,
  • all kinds of celery.

Not bad feels bow and next door to solanaceous cultures. Especially pests do not like the sharp smell of tomato leaf and potato tops. One of the good defenders for plants are marigolds, which generally should be satellites of almost all plants damaged by insects.

The third type of prophylaxis is sprinkling between the rows of wood ash. This method also has a second positive component - enrichment of the soil with nutrients, primarily so necessary potassium.

Another important point in the cultivation of any crop - mulching plantings. A thick layer of organic material on the soil simply will not let the fly fly to the soil or shoots of your onions, which means that there will be no egg-laying with all the details.

A great way to prevent is spraying onion planting repellent stocky infusions. Such prophylactic preparations against onion flies are:

  • tomato leaves,
  • tobacco dust,
  • sagebrush,
  • valerian,
  • mint and lemon balm,
  • needles.

Tip! Tobacco dust and ash can be powdered plants after rain or watering.

Bad advice

Supporters of organic farming categorically do not recommend digging the soil, and in all articles on how to get rid of onion flies, chilly is almost the main preventive measure. And the authors rewrite this advice from article to article, justifying it by saying that when digging, the larvae would appear on the surface and die. Here are some objections:

  1. The onion fly larvae winter too shallowly from 5 to 20 centimeters, and the soil freezes to this depth in almost all regions of the country.
  2. What prevents the larva from digging again, or is it necessary to dig on the eve of freezing?
  3. Perennial bows grow in one place without digging for several seasons. Following the logic of "kopalschikov" these bows should not exist at all, since the pests should simply live under their roots, and in the spring eat up what they have not eaten since autumn.

Another harmful advice than to cultivate the land of onion flies in the fall or during the growing season is saline. And it is advised to carry out a threefold treatment. Initially, 300 grams per bucket of water, then - 450, and at the end of 600. What will happen to soil microorganisms in this case is not hard to guess. Salt as the strongest conservative will destroy the entire microscopic life of your vegetable garden. Therefore, the treatment of onions with salt from onion flies is undoubtedly harmful advice.

Pest Control

What are the methods of dealing with onion flies, if, after all, it has penetrated your beds and the defeat of the bulbs has already begun? Here, too, they advise in two ways: there are truly biological folk remedies, and there are also such that it would be better to mention. But let's be objective and mention both points of view. Let's start, as before, with good advice.

Birch tar from the onion fly can be applied in two cases: pre-sowing soaking of the bulbs before planting and processing of the crops 10-14 days after full germination. In the second case, liquid soap is added to the solution for better adhesion. The composition of the drug:

  • water - 10 liters,
  • tar - 1 tablespoon,
  • liquid soap - 20 grams.
If necessary, re-treatment should be carried out no earlier than two weeks.

Ash content

Good help from onion flies such a composition, completely destroying the larvae:

  • ash from burnt tree branches or dry weeds - 200 grams,
  • tobacco dust - 1 tsp,
  • ground hot pepper - 1 teaspoon.

Spit the onion spacing with this dry mixture if there are signs of pest damage. But the composition can be used as a prophylactic agent.

Brutal ways

Here we will describe to you those methods that can be applied on another planet, and it’s better not to foul your own site. As the destroyers of onion flies, you can use various chemical means, both industrial production and "folk". Although they can only be called folk quotation marks, for they are directed against nature.

We will not advertise poisons that are clogging up our planet, let us just say that they are mainly used by large producers of vegetables that do not care about people's health. They probably will not eat onions after chemical treatments.

To folk include a way to get rid of onion flies with ammonia. As if among people, ammonia appears in barrels by itself, and is not a product of the chemical industry. We present to you, to enhance education, and this is useful, as someone thinks the recipe:

  • a bucket of water,
  • three drops of iodine
  • drop of potassium permanganate,
  • boric acid - half a teaspoon,
  • ammonia - one tablespoon.

Mix this powerful drug, go to the garden, and water on each plant in a circle of solution. Mother Earth will say “Thank you” to you!

There are quite a few ways to control pests with truly folk remedies available to every gardener. This and various plant extracts, and the combined planting, and mulching. Do not foul your soil chemistry, because our descendants still live on it, and enjoy its benefits.

Next, we present you an instructive video on the use of birch tar as a means of combating onion flies.

What smells can scare away the pest

Not even all gardeners know what to do if an onion fly has appeared, how to fight it. It turns out that, like many insect parasites, the pest does not like unpleasant odors. In this case, the smell of carrots and tomatoes is repulsive. Many housewives planted onions, alternating it with carrots, and a garden bed with tomatoes smashed nearby.

The effect of such landings, as they say, on the face - there is neither an onion fly, nor a carrot, so joint planting in this case will only benefit. The feedback from experienced gardeners about the joint cultivation of vegetables, in most cases, is positive.

Spraying onions with strongly smelling broths of mint, valerian or pine needles will be effective. For plants, these decoctions are absolutely safe.

Another popular method of struggle is tobacco dust. This tool is sold in retail outlets for gardeners. It can be scattered between the rows of onions or spray the plants with a solution (the proportions are indicated on the package). Another way is to combine landings. The carrot growing next to the onion repels insects, and at the same time the onion prevents pests from spoiling the carrot crop.

The same mutual assistance is characteristic when planting onions with the following crops:

  • parsnip,
  • parsley leaf and root,
  • celery.

Pests and solanaceous crops, especially tomatoes and potatoes, are also effectively deterred. Nearby also are the great benefits of marigolds, which are recommended to be planted with all vulnerable to pests vegetables.

Another way to prevent the development of parasites is to regularly sprinkle ashes between the rows. This allows not only to scare away the onion fly, but also provides the bulbs with the nutrients they need, such as potassium.

For this fit:

Ashes or tobacco dust can also sprinkle the plants. It is best to do after the rain so that the useful remedy will remain on their surface for a long time. After the onion is planted and the growth begins, its feathers are treated with saline.

This method of prevention should be used very carefully to prevent salinization of the earth.

It is allowed to spray the beds no more than three times a year. The concentration of the solution depends on the "age" of the onion:

  • for the first spraying, when the sprouts are about 5 cm long, use a solution at a concentration of one third of a package of salt per bucket of water,
  • the second spraying is performed in two weeks, for this you need to take half of the packaging, dissolved in a bucket of water,
  • the third is three weeks after the second. The recommended concentration is two thirds of the package per bucket of water.

Already mentioned the beneficial properties of ash, not only as a feed onion, but also a means of preventing damage by pests. In addition, it is useful to use manure, which also repels bulbous flies. It can be used not only in pure form, but also mixed with ash and tobacco dust.

To achieve the maximum effect, ground hot pepper is also added to this mixture. Manure without additives contribute to the soil before sowing onion crops. Peat can be used together. Do not use a mixture of these fertilizers.

They do not have an absolute destructive effect on the larvae of onion flies, but can reduce their number by 3-4 times.

The main thing is that this method, in contrast to the use of chemicals, is not only harmless to onions, but also contributes to its growth. Nitrogen fertilizers, especially ammonium carbonate, are also effective in preventing the growth of insect pests. At the same time, they will give the bulbs the substances necessary for their growth, they will help to fight with Medvedka and such diseases as powdery mildew. The onion fly is the trouble of all gardeners.

The defeat of the bulbs by pests is often easier to prevent than to deal with the larvae. In addition, it will be impossible to restore the integrity of the bulbs after getting rid of worms.

Preventive measures and insecticides

Под профилактикой появления и распространения насекомых-паразитов, в том числе и луковой мухи, понимается создание для них среды, в которой они не смогут жить и размножаться. Прежде всего, необходимо заняться осмотром посадочного материала.

Выбранные здоровые луковицы необходимо обработать перед высадкой в грунт. Сделать это можно двумя способами:

  • Hot water - the onion is dipped in hot water (approximately 50 ° C) for 15 minutes, then it is well dried and planted,
  • Potassium permanganate - the solution is prepared in a proportion of 1 g / l of water. Onion is aged in the solution for 30 minutes, after drying it is ready for planting.

It is worth noting that the processing of onions before planting is an important and necessary step in the cultivation of vegetables, if you want to grow a rich harvest. Unfortunately, many gardeners do not want to mess with the planting, and simply plant in the ground, dooming their plantings to a guaranteed low yield.

Deep digging of the soil at the landing site in the fall will also help to get rid of the larvae of the onion fly.

The pest survives winter at a depth of no more than 20 cm, which means that when digging, all the larvae will move to the surface, where they will die at the first frost. Another important rule - be sure to remove the remains of the crop from the beds, so for the onion fly there will be no favorable breeding ground.

I got an onion fly in the garden, how to fight it? - often hear the sellers of gardening shops. In this case, you will definitely recommend a drug like Basudin. 30 g of this product must be mixed with 0.5 liters of sand (can be replaced with sawdust) and poured into the ground. This should be done at the end of spring.

Do not forget, if you grow onions on greens, some drugs cannot be used for processing. Fighting an onion fly is much easier if you understand how to do it! This will not take much time and energy from you, but in the fall you will definitely feel the result!
Source: ","

How to deal with annoying insects

When the bulb has become soft and your crop has lost its appearance. Planting material disappears and you do not understand what to do? Such signs are similar to the activity of the onion fly known to us. It is necessary to take timely measures in order not to lose the entire crop.

Many farmers are wondering how to deal with an onion fly. If you are faced with the manifestations of its activities, then you need to figure out how to get rid of onion flies. The fight against onion fly should not be delayed. The pest outwardly resembles an ordinary fly of smaller size, yellow color. Onion fly is dangerous for onion harvest.

From the onion fly, the threat increases in that it lays its offspring. During the time the problem is not fixed, it will double and even triple.

Organic products are used against onion flies, as are fertilizers. If you decide to grow on your land plot, then fertilizing before planting and after should be exclusively from organic products. Treatment and prevention of seeding is also based on organic fertilizer.

The main thunderstorm for onion flies is a strong smell that allows you to fight it. Effective protection solution of ammonia, which is poured over the onion beds. This is an excellent tool to help deal with it. The onion pest dies if three large spoons of ammonia are dissolved in ten liters of water.

It is necessary to fight off the onion flies because it comes back. If you are afraid that liquid ammonia adversely affects the sowing, then you are mistaken. Ammonia on the contrary feeds your landing with useful substances.

Many gardeners lose part of the crop because of the onion fly and wonder: how to deal with it? Tracking down this fly is not easy, it is difficult to fight it, because the life of an onion fly, unlike ants, is hidden from humans. How to deal with onion fly, is it possible to cope with it?

This is such a pest, against which only the system of several events acts.

None of the funds does not give an absolute guarantee, only the cumulative effect effectively. It is very important to follow a number of agrotechnical rules. Sometimes popular methods are useful. Finally, there are special chemicals.

What is an onion fly

Damage is caused by groups of small larvae (the length of each is from half a centimeter to a centimeter). These small whitish worms feed on the fleshy, juicy tissue of the underground parts (heads, “legs”) of some garden plants of the bulbous family — onions (including black seeds), shallots (family), leek, perennial schnitta, as well as garlic, decorative onions and tulips.

Insects can be seen if you pull out an unhealthy plant and carefully examine its root neck and bulb (from the inside and from the bottom). Before you begin to fight the pest, you need to understand in particular its biological cycle.

In the climatic conditions of the middle zone, these flies (the first generation) fly out in the spring, when the ground warms up well, buds of the malicious dandelion weed and such berry bushes like cherry and cherry blossom.

Females immediately begin to make egg-laying and produce 5-6 dozen eggs in a month, hiding their clusters under pieces of earth on onion ridges. No later than a week later, the larvae hatch and infiltrate into underground onion tissues for feeding.

The heads deteriorate, rot, the above-ground part turns yellow, falls. Plants lag behind in development, quite often perish.

Three weeks later, the “freeloaders” go deeper into the ground and turn into pupae, from which the second generation flies fly out in July, then the third one can have time to be born. Thus, taking into account the brood, over the summer, the descendants of just three individuals are able to make up an army of several thousand hungry mouths.

Common methods of struggle

No, there is not always the possibility or desire to use alcohol, for this there are other ways of dealing with a pest:

  1. Saline.
  2. Tobacco dust.
  3. Laundry soap.
  4. Ash.
  5. Decoctions of herbs.
  6. Ammonia.
  7. Drug metronidazole.

If the onion is already gaining growth, the treatment is carried out with a solution of salt. Three times during the season, the area is treated with salt. The third part of the pack is dissolved in ten liters of water, when the shoots have reached eight centimeters.

This is an effective way, but it does not always allow other crops to be planted on this site after the onion has been harvested. The onion fly is excreted in salt, but you risk worsening the condition of the soil. Therefore, salt is better to say: "no." If you dilute two hundred grams of tobacco dust in ten liters of water, then the onion fly will go away.

Water should be hot and the dust solution should brew for a couple of days. Effective methods of struggle is kerosene. Kerosene is diluted in water and also provides fertilizing of kerosene in the infected area three times. Kerosene is an excellent method of pest control. Ammonia is also effective, as a method to save the crop.

The presence of ammonia allows you to get rid of the larvae of the pest. Therefore, ammonia is recommended for use. There are cases when using metronidazole and insecticides as a top dressing.

Insecticides - chemicals from the group of pesticides to kill insects. The best fight is prevention. So you should work the soil before planting, inspect and wash the seeds before planting and process the sevok before transferring to the site.

Also, before watering and during the recommended treatment of soil and onions. If you do not have time to treat the culture, it is necessary to prevent its infection by preventing it. This is one of the most problematic pests for all varieties of plants. There are many problems in the fight and its removal.

Agrotechnical events

There are several techniques to prevent or reduce the harm of onion flies. So you can fight it without toxic chemicals.

  • It is very important at the end of the season to carefully destroy plant residues.
  • Infected areas in the autumn must be deeply dug up into clods to freeze.
  • If possible, observe remote crop rotation.
  • It is believed that the combined planting of onions and carrots can disorient the flies.
  • Acquire onions for planting need in safe places.
  • Suspicious bulbs can be held for 15 minutes before planting in a large volume (to cool down more slowly) of hot water (+50 degrees).
  • A proven, very effective prophylactic, perhaps an earlier disembarkation of sevka. Apparently, the dense tissues of the strengthened plants better resist the aggressors.
  • At the beginning of the growing season, you can fill the beds with a layer of mulch (such as peat), and after the flowering of the cherry it is removed and disposed of.
  • Having found an infected plant, it must be immediately carefully removed (with a part of the soil) and destroyed.
  • In beds with perennial bows, pests can arrange real headquarters. Such plantings are useful to regularly update to eliminate pests of permanent shelter.

Home methods

Many gardeners prefer to deal with the larvae on the onions with saline. A kilogram of salt (food) salt is diluted in 20 liters of water and shed from the watering can (or sprayed) the ground between the rows: the first time when the buds bloom on cherry, then repeat twice a month and a half.

The bad thing is that the earth is clogged with chlorine and sodium.

    It is believed that insecticidal properties has a weekly infusion of dandelion rhizomes (200 grams per bucket of boiling water). They are poured onions and garlic twice a month.

Use of insecticide chemicals

In critical situations, it is permissible to deal with a malicious pest with permitted pesticides. In this case, it is necessary to observe the following prerequisite: do not use a feather on a feather (greens) with the planted landings! Two groups of pesticide preparations are recommended.

  • Spraying agents that poison an adult fly. This is Aktar and Alatar. Do not spray near flowering plants!
    1. Aktar is diluted in water (for 10 liters take 1 g of powder or 1 ml of liquid) and sprayed planting no more than twice per season. Heads of onions and garlic can be broken in with food not earlier than in a week.
    2. Alatar (10 ml) is dissolved in ten liters of water and treated beds 1-2 times. The waiting time for food consumption is at least three weeks.
  • Means containing a substance that is poisonous to the larvae.

Zemlin (powder) or the fly-eater (granules) are poured, lightly patching, on top of the beds when planting bulbs.

Consume products can be only two months - this is the waiting time. Some gardeners sprayed planting onions with solutions of Creolin or Pugacha (tar with creolin). This should not be done, since Creolin is a very harmful carcinogen.
Source: ","

Save the crop from the pest - the main task of the gardener

Onion fly is one of the most dangerous pests. Its appearance on the onion bed is fraught with the risk of the partial or complete destruction of the crop. How to deal with onion fly in the garden? Before declaring an open war to her and one by one to test ways of dealing with a dangerous insect, it is important to understand how exactly the seemingly harmless onion fly inflicts such tremendous harm on a valuable plant.

Onion flies are distinguished from other species of flies by relatively small sizes - only 5-10 millimeters in length. This difference allows not only to hide from predators, but also to freely settle inside the plant, for a long time remaining unnoticed even by the most responsible gardeners.

Habitats and signs of appearance

The onion fly settles in gardens and beds in April and May, that is, at the end of spring, during the flowering of dandelion and cherry. The insect immediately lays its eggs in fertile soil. Dried onion scales, weeds, or remnants of the past harvest also often become a haven for small pests.

After some time, the larvae resemble tiny white worms. The habitat of these larvae is onion pulp. Large colonies of onion fly larvae can spoil the entire crop, settling and eating the bulbs, thereby damaging them.

The bulbs become soft, unsuitable for food, rotting from the rain, destroyed by fungus and emit an unpleasant smell. Shoots quickly turn yellow and dry.

The greatest threat is the onion fly, the larvae of which eat not only onions, but also leeks, chives, garlic and onion flowers. Based on the foregoing, it is possible to identify a number of basic features by which it is possible to determine the appearance of an onion fly in the garden:

  • Soft or rotting bulbs.
  • Yellowed or cracked onion feathers.
  • Characteristic odor emanating from the plant.
  • Fully dried or rotted plants.

Just a few weeks it takes the larvae of onion flies to become pupae and in the shortest possible time to form a new generation of pests ready to destroy the crop and to lay the larvae. If you do not destroy the onion fly at this stage, you can later lose most of the valuable crop.

We use folk remedies in the fight against the fly

How to deal with an onion fly in the garden with the help of old proven tools? In addition to the need for prevention, it is often necessary to immediately get rid of the onion fly that has already settled on the plant. Experienced summer residents for several years in a row have been actively using many popular methods of fighting the onion fly.

Talking about how to get rid of the pest, they often agree in judgment, unanimously approving a well-known method of spraying plants with infusions whose scent scares onion flies. One of the most popular methods of control is the spraying of beds with solutions of fragrant herbs.

For this purpose, perfect solutions of peppermint, valerian, pine needles or wormwood.

This way of dealing with the onion fly is not only effective, but also harmless to the plants, so you can use the spraying as often as you like the owner of the garden bed. Another not less effective way to get rid of the onion fly from the beds is ammonia.

Three spoons of alcohol dissolve in a bucket of water, and the resulting solution is carefully watered the beds three times at monthly intervals. This periodicity is due to the fact that in the summer of an onion fly can only live on a bed three times. In addition, ammonia is not only harmless, but also useful for onions. In its composition there is nitrogen, necessary for onions to synthesize vegetable protein, active growth and prevent yellowing of feathers.

    Manure and peat will not destroy the larvae of the onion fly completely, but will reduce their number threefold or even fourfold.

Two hundred grams of roots are infused in ten liters of water for seven days, after which the beds are carefully watered at intervals of two weeks. According to the adherents of this method, the onion fly, frightened off by a spicy smell, leaves the beds in a matter of days.

One more method of struggle chosen by summer residents is the salt solution.

This method is also recommended by the author of the channel “evgen sta”. The recipe is simple and is available to absolutely any gardener: a glass of salt per ten liters of water. The resulting solution must be carefully water the plants affected by the onion flies - for each of them it is desirable to spend at least a glass of saline.

However, after spraying or watering, the soil is salted, and other crops subsequently grow much worse.

In order to avoid or at least stop the salting, it is recommended to repeat it the next day after watering, but to use not salt water, but plain water. Adding ash to the kidney helps prevent the onion fly.

One of the most simplified ways of dealing with an onion fly is a soap solution.

Fifty grams of ordinary laundry soap must be dissolved in ten liters of water, then spray the beds with the resulting mixture. The smell of soap acts on the onion fly in the same way as the smell of dandelion and other odorous herbs - forcing the pest to leave the beds.

Chemistry Against Onion Flies

For those who are not accustomed to trusting folk remedies, there are many chemical products that are simpler to use. Despite the fact that the use of chemistry, including insecticides, is often more expensive, and overdose can lead to chemical poisoning of the entire crop, many gardeners and summer residents boldly use "industrial" means of fighting the onion fly.

The costs and risks in this case are justified by one hundred percent efficiency.

    One of the most common means of fighting an onion fly is ordinary tobacco dust, which can be bought at any specialty store.

It can also be bought in a specialty store. Despite the fact that such a tool will cost more, the effect of it will be truly impressive - the onion fly will leave the beds in the shortest possible time. Ash must be used in a ratio of from two hundred to two hundred and fifty grams per ten liters of water.

Carbon ammonium salt is well suited in the event that the appearance of an onion fly was not immediately noticed.

This fertilizer will destroy the larvae deposited by pests, and the nitrogen contained in it will contribute to the synthesis of plant protein and, as a consequence, the active growth of the plant.

In the above specialized stores you can also find all sorts of insecticides that help in the fight against the onion fly.

They are sold most often in the form of tablets or powder, which must be dissolved in warm water, then watered or sprayed on the plants. When using them, it is important to strictly follow the instructions and carefully dose the chemicals.

Следует также помнить, что слишком частое использование инсектицидов ведёт к их накапливанию в почве на грядках. Оттуда они поглощаются самим растением и накапливаются в луковицах и перьях, делая их несъедобными и вредными для здоровья.

При выращивании лука их присутствие не столь необходимо, однако многие дачники помимо огорода содержат ещё и сад или цветник, а цветы без опыления растут гораздо хуже. Summarizing, we can say that getting rid of the onion fly is quite difficult and energy-intensive, but the end justifies the means.

Even without noticing the appearance of a pest in the first few weeks, it is possible to prevent rotting and destruction of the crop, destroy the harmful larvae and drive the parasite out of the beds. Having spent several hours, days, or even weeks fighting an onion fly, the gardener will in the end be sure to receive a rich harvest as a reward, which is doubly valuable and fully justifies the efforts made.


Since the struggle with the onion fly is a long and energy-consuming process, where it is more reasonable to resort to various methods of preventing its appearance. To prevent the onion flies from emerging in the garden, it is important to follow a few simple tips to help protect a valuable crop.

Before planting, check seedlings for integrity and damage. If there are traces of decay and decomposition on the seedlings on the seedlings, they should not be planted in any case.

Such signs indicate the presence in the seedlings of larvae of onion flies, survived the winter or just recently settled inside the plant. It is best to destroy them, throw them away or burn them. Proven, healthy seedlings, even if among them were several soft and rotted, which had to be thrown away, it is quite possible to plant without fear of the presence of onion fly larvae in them. Healthy and whole bulbs must be carefully processed.

This can be done in two ways: with hot water or potassium permanganate. When treating with hot water, it is necessary to immerse the seedlings in water at a temperature of 50 ° C and leave for 10-15 minutes, then dry well and only then land in the ground.

This method allows you to destroy the larvae of onion flies, if they are already inside the plant, and for some time to make the bow "unfit" for insects.

    Potassium permanganate is prepared at the rate of "one teaspoon of manganese per bucket of water."

It would be much more effective to apply crop rotation, growing onions in one area no more than once every four years. For the rest of the time, it is possible to plant tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage in the same area, and plant onions as far as possible.

By digging up a lot in the fall, you can significantly reduce the risk of an onion fly in the garden.

The fact is that most of the larvae of the small pest spend the winter in the ground near their favorite food. Like tiny worms, they settle in fertile soil at a depth of no more than twenty centimeters.

In the process of digging the larvae are transferred to the surface and die from the cold.

After the entire crop has been harvested, it is necessary to remove all post-harvest residues.

For onion flies, they can become exactly the same food as ordinary plants, with the only difference being that they cannot serve as food for quite a long time, as a result of which the insect will certainly migrate to fresh onions, carefully grown by a human hand.

Onion fly can not stand the smell of carrots. Pests that settle on carrots, including carrots, also cannot stand the smell of onions, so it is better to plant them nearby, close to each other.

However, some gardeners claim that this method is ineffective. According to them, the onion fly has adapted to such conditions and freely reproduces even in the closest neighborhood with carrots.

Other plants that produce an odor that cannot be tolerated by an onion fly are tomato, wild rosemary and wild lamb. Any spicy smells for onion flies are intolerable. However, in this case the same problem arises as in the case of carrots - this method of prevention and control of the onion fly does not help everyone.
Source: ""

Processing plants and soil

Ways to fight a malicious insect are varied and simple:

  • Repellent is saline. In 10 liters of water dilute 300 g of salt. Pour the solution on young feathers of onions After a few hours, spill the plant with plain water. The procedure is repeated every 10 days.
  • Good will help the land composition of wood ash, tobacco dust and black pepper.

It is better to do in both periods of the flight of onion flies and egg laying. Need to mix 1 tsp. pepper + 1 tsp. tobacco dust + 200 g of ash. The mixture sypyat between beds and loosened to a shallow depth.

  • The peat substrate will protect the plant from the onion fly. They water the soil or spray the plants. Processing of peat land before landing, significantly reduce the number of larvae.
  • A well-known remedy for onion flies is a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. They watered the beds every 10 days.
  • You can also process onions from onion flies using infusion of dandelions. Take 10 liters of water + 200 gr. flower root. After weekly infusion, water the bulbous once every 2 weeks.
  • A proven popular method of struggle is the treatment of onions with ammonia. Ammonia is an insect repellent.

    Water composition should not be more than 1 time per week. Ammonia acts detrimental to the garden predator due to its odorous pairs.

  • The persistent smell of kerosene, turpentine will scare off the annoying pest. They can cultivate the land between the rows.
  • Use of chemicals

    How to deal with onion fly with the help of chemicals known to almost all gardeners and gardeners. There are fast and reliable methods of dealing with it, and quite safe if you protect crops with these methods strictly according to the instructions, in compliance with the dosages prescribed by the manufacturer.

    Such methods of struggle will help to forget about the annoying pest once and for all.

    1. The insect will not start if the root crop is treated with the toxic drug "Intavir". Plus it is that it is safe for other living beings.
    2. Protect planting onions and garlic can be a powerful drug "Tarantula".

    Why the larvae and adults will die very quickly. Over the next 3 weeks, the tool will prevent infection by new insects.

  • The fight against the fly is possible with the use of the Zemlin solution. He will scare her away during the landing. The tool is mixed with sand and sawdust.
  • How to process onions yet? The strongest insecticide for watering onions from an onion fly is “Dimethoat”. It penetrates deep into the plant and kills the pests living inside. This is a very powerful crop protection from onion flies.
  • Attention! When using synthetic insecticides, it is necessary to strictly observe the processing scheme and the exact amount of the drug in order not to harm the plant and to protect itself from poisoning with toxic substances.

    How to detect an onion fly in the garden

    The onion fly itself is invisible and very similar to the usual one, therefore the gardener does not pay any attention to it for the time being. This insect, 6-8 mm long, differs only in ashy color, which often allows it to remain unnoticed against the background of dried soil.

    It is unrealistic to see the eggs or newborn larvae of the onion fly, until they penetrate the body of the bulb and grow up. But when worms become visible to the eye, it may be too late to save the crop. Onions, struck by an onion fly, rot, dry, turn yellow and are not suitable for further cultivation or storage.

    On a note! Onion plants, damaged by an onion fly, produce an unpleasant smell of rotting, which is especially felt when the soil next to them is loosened.

    Onion leaves, affected by onion fly

    How to deal with the onion fly on the garden, if you can not see it, but it is very difficult to distinguish it from the harmless one? It is important not to forget about preventive treatments of soil and planting material that will protect your garden from the appearance of this pest.

    What is dangerous pest

    Flies-pests of bulbous plants appear in late April - early May, when cherry and dandelion are blooming. If you look at the photo of an onion fly, you will find that it looks very similar to its counterparts — ordinary house flies: the body is gray, the wings are transparent. Dacha insect pests are distinguished from representatives of the domestic species by their small size (6-7 mm).

    Adult onion flies do not harm plants directly. The insect larvae that are truly dangerous to onions, garlic and tulips, which hatch from eggs laid by a fly directly on the seedlings of the plants or into the nearby soil. For a month, one adult onion pest can lay up to 60 eggs. The larvae feed on the bulbs and leave large cavities in them. In addition, these harmful worms can move and fall into the adjacent plant. It is a mistake to think that danger only threatens popular onions. A fly can lay eggs in leek, and in chives, and in shallot.

    Affected plant bulbs begin to rot, leaves dry and turn yellow. If you do not start the fight against the pest in time, there is a risk of losing most of the crop.

    In addition, the larvae, which will not be removed in time from onion or garlic beds, go deep into the soil for the winter. This means that in the next garden season your plot will again be subject to the pests of these insects.

    Pest Control Measures

    How to deal with onion fly? If you decide to immediately resort to aggressive chemicals, take your time.

    It is not recommended to protect garlic and onions from onion flies with the help of various pesticides, since the consumption of such vegetables can greatly affect health.

    It is better to use several safe and time-tested ways to combat this malicious pest:

    1. Observe preventive measures. In the autumn, be sure to dig up the beds and remove all weeds and plant residues. Where possible, sow onions early. Carrots planted next door will be a good defense for him, since flies cannot stand its smell. Try to periodically change the place of disembarkation of onions (garlic), do not sow it every year on the same bed.
    2. Onions intended for planting, you must first hold in a solution of potassium permanganate.
    3. Before the departure of flies, it is necessary to process onions and garlic with natural deterring agents. The most famous of them is a mixture of tobacco dust and wood ash (in a 1: 1 ratio). It will also be effective infusions of valerian, pine needles, mint or fir.
    4. If preventive control measures fail to produce proper results and the bulbs are affected by the larvae, it is necessary to remove damaged plants from the soil as soon as possible. This will prevent the formation of a new generation of pests.
    5. A solution of manganese (potassium permanganate) - an excellent remedy against onion flies. Water the beds with affected plants 1 time in 10 days. To achieve the desired effect, prepare a saturated solution of potassium permanganate (be guided by the color, it should be dark pink).
    6. Watering plants with saline is another known way to get rid of a pest. It is necessary to stir 1,5 glasses of table salt in 10 l of water. The resulting mixture is poured onions and garlic already at the appearance of the first green shoots. After a few hours, be sure to produce watering the beds with clean water. The whole procedure is repeated several times with an interval of 10 days. This method, however, has a significant drawback: salt can adversely affect the composition of the soil, so be prepared for the fact that after such a "treatment" you will have to restore the balance of nutrients of the earth.

    Fighting an onion fly is easy if you know what measures to take to get rid of the pest. Do not forget that it is always easier to prevent the appearance of insect larvae than to look for ways to get rid of them. Therefore, do not be lazy to carefully cultivate the soil not only after planting, but also at the end of the harvest.

    What to do if the winged wound up in the house

    If an onion fly started up in the house, how to fight it? Insect often appears on the onions growing in the apartment. How to get rid of onion flies and protect planting tell below:

    • before planting onions on the windowsill or on the balcony it is necessary to treat the soil with special solutions,
    • good plant near tomato seedlings, why the front sight will not be delighted,
    • to enclose from all sides the home-garden with fragrant herbs: needles, fir, mint, tansy,
    • you can water the plants with a solution of ash and tobacco,
    • the smell of camphor, common around the house, has a detrimental effect on insects,
    • maintaining cleanliness and order in the house will help prevent the appearance of uninvited guests and allow you to keep the harvest intact.

    Preparations from onion flies

    If the struggle with onion fly folk remedies did not bring results, then it is time to move on to chemical preparations.

    Important! Onions and garlic, like other green crops, accumulate insecticides when used incorrectly or too abundantly and may become unsuitable for human consumption. Therefore, carefully read the instructions and follow it strictly.

    In garden stores, choosing how to treat the beds from the onion flies, pay attention to such drugs as Aktara, Alatar, Borey, Break, Karate Zeon, Moeoed, Terradoks, etc. All of them are used during the growing season and may require repeated processing.

    Important! Insecticides can not be used on the onions grown on the feather, and it is also important to remember that they do not have a selective effect and can destroy not only insect pests, but also garden pollinators.

    As you can see, there are many means of fighting the onion fly, and most of them are quite accessible and effective. Therefore, do not let the insidious pest destroy your harvest, but act proactively.