The butterfly flower is loved by many flower growers. In order for the bush to delight its beauty, Phalaenopsis orchid at home requires specific care. The plant epiphyte develops in conditions that are easy to create. Fulfillment of all maintenance requirements will be the key to long-blooming orchids.
Phalaenopsis orchid care for home maintenance
Important for plant development is the creation of conditions for the proper development of the root system. Looking for transparent pots and a special substrate. There are no trifles in the content of the orchid, only the right agricultural technology will create a picturesque indoor garden:
Location for a flower pot - shaded side of the apartment. Direct sunlight and the southern window of the orchid are not suitable. Placement of a plant is possible far from a window, but with illumination. Day length is crucial. Phalaenopsis orchid blooms only when illuminated for at least 12 hours.
Content temperature When caring for orchid phalaenopsis at home depends on the time of year. In summer, when the flower arrows strike with their beauty, the shadow should be 18-25 0 C. At higher temperatures, flowers can quickly begin to crumble. In winter, if flowering is not expected and the plant is resting, coolness is needed, about 15 degrees.
During the rest period, when flower buds are laid, the nighttime temperature should be 4-5 degrees lower than the daytime.
How to water the orchids Phalaenopsis at home? Fleshy roots nourish the plant, but with stagnant moisture, they can rot. The roots should be in the ultra-light substrate and not only supply the plant with nutrients, but also produce chlorophyll under the action of light penetrating through the transparent walls of the vessel. It is important to saturate the substrate with moisture after drying by immersion for 30 minutes. Do not wet the leaves. It is possible to determine whether the soil in the pot has dried by weight, with a moisture indicator, each one finding its own method of control. With a lack of moisture, the plant will drop flowers, with an excess - it will rot.
Microclimate for a flower - butterflies created by all available means. The orchid does not require regular spraying, the accumulation of water in the axils of the leaves can cause rot. Humidity 40-45% is considered optimal for the plant.
Soil for orchid phalaenopsis is selected with the expectation that the plant is an epiphyte. The substrate is made from a mixture of bark of coniferous trees, charcoal, sphagnum moss and shells. The bark is taken from old fallen trees, soft, after boiling. In the lower part, like drainage, pebbles are poured with the addition of bark and coal. Acidity should be 5.5-6.0. To keep the acidic medium in, add a little peat to the substrate, or pour water with acidified lemon juice. But it is better to do the transplant in two or three years and not to use acidulants.
For long-term flowering when taking care of Phalaenopsis orchid, it is not necessary to change the place of the pot and maintain a uniform temperature in the room. Fertilizers for orchids have a specific composition and concentration, they should be used once a month in the recommended amount. Root top dressing for a healthy flower is preferable.
Leaves care is required. It is necessary to rinse them, then wipe, so that there are no drying droplets. If the old lower leaves began to dry, they need to be cut. Also observe the condition of the air roots, removing damaged parts. Place the cut must be covered with coal or cinnamon powder.
How to properly transplant phalaenopsis orchids at home?
Orchid roots are not long, not branched, it is important that there are many of them, and they hold the plant tightly in the soil. Swing bush should not. In order for the root system to be healthy, the orchid needs to be properly transplanted after it has faded.
Stages of transplantation include mandatory operations:
- remove the plant from the container with minimal damage,
- soak a clod of earth and wash it off with a stream of water
- remove the damaged roots, sprinkle the cut sites with coal dust or cinnamon powder,
- cutting dry leaves and arrows need to leave hemp,
- dry the flower 3 hours before planting.
The composition of the soil to boil and leave in water until cool. Filter the solid part, rinse on the sieve with hot water and put to dry to a loose state. Process the drainage composition in the same way. In the center, place the prepared dried plant and sprinkle the roots with the substrate, without bristling the socket along the neck. Pour warm water and let the filtrate drain. The compacted and settled soil is brought to normal level by bedding. There should be no moisture on the leaves and in the sinuses after transplantation.
The transplant operation is necessary in order not to impoverish the mineral supply of food, not to increase the acidity and not to use peat and acidified water, which will poison the plant. You can see the Phalaenopsis orchid transplant at home on the video, which will help not to make mistakes.
Ways to grow orchids at home
Seed orchid phalaenopsis propagated in special conditions. At home, you can get a new copy formed by a bud with air roots formed on the otzvetshayu shooter. This is the easiest way to get a new plant.
There is another, more time consuming method - cutting the faded arrows. Cut off arrows cut into fragments, each of which contains a sleeping kidney. They germinate cuttings in the substrate in a moist environment, and not every cutting will give a new baby.
The block culture method — phalaenopsis orchid breeding at home, as an epiphyte, is applicable on a wooden base if you can create a moist air environment. On a piece of vine, a tree branch attach moss or similar material that holds moisture. On this surface pinch baby Phalaenopsis orchids. In order for the roots in the upper layer to not dry, the environment must be wet.
Diseases and pests of orchids
If orchid care is wrong, pest infestation and plant diseases are inevitable. Non-infectious diseases of orchids arise from improper care, then a weakened plant affects insects and fungal and bacterial diseases. When caring for orchid phalaenopsis at home, the first signal of trouble may be yellowing leaves.
Yellow indicates abnormal temperature of the content, lack of light or moisture. But the worst will be steaming or prolonged overcooling of the plant. Vegetative buds die and the plant dies. Stretched leaves signal a lack of light and become vulnerable.
Viral diseases include all sorts of small spots and mosaics. They are incurable. Therefore, if a specialist diagnoses a viral disease, the plant must be destroyed by burning. Viruses spread insects, and inevitably the disease will pass to other flowers.
Bacterial spotting manifests itself as dark spots, softened with leaves and roots. Sick spots are cut to healthy tissue, burned with iodine, powdered with coal dust. In advanced cases, leaves and roots are treated with fungicides.
Anthracosis, powdery mildew, rust are fungal diseases, are transmitted by spores or with the soil. Preventing these diseases is easier than curing. To do this, ventilate the room, avoid excessive moisture, do not leave water droplets on the leaves. Various rot appear in violation of the temperature regime, especially with the greenhouse effect. A black fungus develops on the sweet secretions of insect pests.
A weakened plant can colonize aphid, mealybug. With proper care, the mealybug will not start. Aphids should be washed off with soapy water. After treatment, wash the leaves with soft water and dry. For the destruction of insects use only recommended preparations for orchids.
Phalaenopsis General Information
In literal translation from the Greek Phalaenopsis sounds like "moth". This is not surprising, because the flowers of this unusual plant are in the form of a flying tropical moth or butterfly. A variety of colors is amazing. Even if you set yourself to collect all the existing colors and shades of orchids in your home, then you will have to spend a lot of time on achieving it. But even one or more phalaenopsis can significantly decorate your home and give you positive emotions from the contemplation of their indescribable beauty.
How to choose Phalaenopsis?
So, you decided to please yourself with the purchase of this beautiful plant. What should be considered when choosing an orchid?
- The plant is desirable to acquire during the flowering period. Then you can choose the color that you like or which is missing in your collection.
- Attention should be paid to the leaves: in a healthy plant, they are dark green, fleshy, with a wax shine. Flowers with damaged, dry or discolored leaves are best left in the store.
- Phalaenopsis roots are green and powerful. If you move a healthy potted flower, the roots will sit tightly in the substrate. If the orchid root system suffers, the roots will be sluggish and mobile.
The choice of location and temperature
So you purchased your phalaenopsis and now he needs home care after the store. In order for the flower to be comfortable, you need to choose the right place where it will live and choose the temperature regime, since it directly depends on it whether the orchid will please you with flowering or not.
Phalaenopsis is very fond of light, so you need to keep it in well-lit places, for example, on window sills. But remember that direct sunlight can cause burns on the plant. Therefore, it is better to put them on the east or west side. If the windows in your house are facing south, you can make a regiment, place it near the window and settle the phalaenopsis there.
Regarding the temperature regime there are some features. In order to stimulate the flowering process, it is necessary to create a temperature gradient: in summertime, maintain 24–26 degrees, and in winter, reduce the temperature to 15–17 degrees for a couple of weeks. The flower will withstand 30–32 degrees, but if such numbers hold on for a long time, your phalaenopsis will react to this by dropping its beautiful flowers and withering leaves.
With proper care at home, an orchid-phalaenopsis will delight you with flowering from 3 to 6 months.
Choosing the right substrate and pot
In order for the Phalaenopsis orchid to feel well, care at home must imply a responsible approach to the selection of the pot and the soil in which it will grow.
The substrate is necessary for phalaenopsis to impart a stable upright position, since in nature, the flower is watered with tropical rains and from the same when the diffusion of moisture through the leaves gets nutrients. The roots of phalaenopsis are called airy and should not be permanently in the water. Therefore, especially for them there is a substrate for sale, consisting of bark, which provides constant access of air to the root system of the flower. If there is insufficient humidity in the room, you can add a little peat moss to the substrate, however, the main thing here is not to overdo it, as it will retain water.
It is better to choose a pot transparent, then the state of the substrate and the roots of the plant will always be under your visual control. The size of the pot is important: if it is great for phalaenopsis, the soil will dry out badly, which will eventually lead to rotting of the roots. A too small size of the pot will lead to permanent trauma to the root system. For aesthetics, you can put a transparent pot in a multi-colored flowerpots, although the appearance of a healthy and flourishing orchid will attract all views.
Humidity and watering
In order for the orchid to grow and delight its owner required air humidity in the range of 30−40%. If the air temperature exceeds the comfort for phalaenopsis, the pot with a flower can be put on a tray with wet rubble or pebbles. But do not forget that with excessive moisture, the roots may start to rot.
Watering or Phalaenopsis “bathing” is a kind of ritual, which allows the flower to provide proper care. At your hand should always be separated or rain water. The water temperature for bathing orchids at home should be slightly above room temperature — approximately 26–8 degrees.
In a container filled with prepared water you need to immerse the plant pot for 20–45 minutes for sufficient impregnation of the substrate with moisture. After bathing, put the pot with phalaenopsis on a tray or in-depth plate so that excess moisture can be removed through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Moisture stagnation around phalaenopsis roots should not be allowed.
This ritual should be performed at intervals once a week. But if the temperature in the room where the orchid grows is above 30 degrees - you need to do it 2 times a week.
How to replant phalaenopsis?
Orchid transplanted no more than once every three years. This is best done in the spring. But it may be that the transplant will be needed by the plant immediately after you bring it from the store. It is advisable to do this when the orchid stops blooming.
For transplantation it is better to use a new substrate, but if there is no such possibility, then the old one will do. It needs to be washed, boiled and completely dried.
Phalaenopsis need to extract from the pot, clean the roots from the remnants of the soil. Then his nit is good to see well and if there is, then remove the yellowed leaves and spoiled roots. Slices should be treated with antiseptic. You can handle scissors, which will cut off the unusable parts of the plant.
If there are no holes in the bottom of the pot where you will be replanting the orchid, need to do them yourself. Then a layer of expanded clay is placed on the bottom, which will perform the drainage function. The flower is placed in the center and evenly sprinkled with the substrate, not forgetting that the roots should have access to air.
The conditions under which the orchid will bloom
- Control the humidity of the air in the room where Phalaenopsis lives. If necessary, moisturize, because in summer the humidity is often lowered.
- Adequate lighting is necessary, but not direct sunlight.
- Temperature fluctuations should be minimal, except for lowering it to stimulate the flowering process.
- Try to refrain from moving the orchid pot from place to place.
It is difficult to highlight the main condition, since compliance with all of them in the complex leads to the desired result.
After stopping flowering, Phalaenopsis needs special care. In order for flowers to appear again and again, you need to give the plant a rest. For this, the peduncle is trimmed to the third bud or remains intact. When the orchid is ready to bloom again, it will throw out a new flower spike.
How to propagate home phalaenopsis?
When you realize that home care for orchids is pretty simple, then you may want to try to multiply your pets. Here, too, there is nothing difficult, but you need to be patient.
With careful examination of the peduncle, it is necessary to determine the presence of dormant buds. For her awakening need a temperature range of 24–29 degrees. A sharp object makes a semicircular incision in the area of the base of the scales of the kidney and it is removed using tweezers. A bare bud is treated with cytokine paste and covered with a piece of sphagnum.
In 4–6 weeks one or several cubs can be observed on the plant with two or three tiny leaves. The number of babies depends on how many kidneys you have processed. But it should be remembered that on one plant it is not necessary to process more than one, since it can give all its power to the children, and perish itself.
At the end of 3-4 months, the cubs appear first roots. As soon as they get stronger and reach a length of at least two centimeters, cut a young orchid with a piece of maternal and transplant into a separate pot. Roots must be covered with moss to protect from drying out. If in the room where the young flower will grow, the air humidity is insufficient, you can make a greenhouse from a plastic bag. Further care is the same as for the rest of the phalaenopsis.
Another condition that provides decent care is the right fertilizer, because it is important.
- In order for the plant to easily release new leaves - it is necessary to use complex fertilizers, with a greater proportion of nitrogen in them. But you should know the measure, so as not to overdo it, because the massive growth of leaves prevents flowering. To correct this mistake, feed should be stopped.
- And there are enough leaves. Now you can spur phalaenopsis to bloom, feeding it with fertilizer with a greater content of potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen. Pour the mixture should be up to the moment, until the flowering process begins.
- For phalaenopsis orchids often use ready-made liquid feedings, therefore the need for their independent preparation disappears.
- В летний период следует удобрять растения в среднем два раза в месяц, а в зимний один раз.
Соблюдая несложные условия и руководствуясь правилами ухода за фаленопсисами, you can grow at home a whole conservatory of fabulously beautiful flowers that will not leave anyone indifferent.
Description of Phalaenopsis Orchid
The reason for this popularity is very beautiful appearance of a flower, and also leaving not demanding big diligence, due to the fact that this species is much easier and easier to grow in residential areas compared to other epiphytes. They belong to epiphytes due to the fact that in the environment in most cases they live on the surfaces of trees or rocky rocks.
Phalaenopsis orchid in the wild
For the first time this flower was “discovered” by a German scientist on the island of the Molukksky complex, he noticed it through binoculars, and at first it seemed to him that it was a butterfly because of this, it has the name phalaenopsis, which means "resembling a moth". Today, people engaged in floriculture often use the name “butterfly orchids” for these flowers.
The plant has a lot of species there are about 70 major species , and the hybrid is an incredible amount that cannot be combined into a single catalog, so that it contains all the existing colors and shades that exist today.
There are two types of these flowers.: standard, which can be about a meter long, and miniature, which does not grow more than 30 centimeters.
Phalaenopsis bloom 2-3 times a year for 2-3 months. The color of flowers is very diverse, from white to dark purple. Orchids have rounded roots in diameter up to half a centimeter, leaves are firm, smooth and leathery in green.
A very difficult decision is to choose a substrate for orchids, since the conditions under which the plant is kept at home are very different from natural ones. And as we already know, their natural habitat is tropical forests, the climate of which is almost impossible to display at home.
Ready substrate for orchids Phalaenopsis
The main component used in the Phalaenopsis substrate is the bark. At the bottom of the pot should be placed pieces of bark of medium size, and in the middle and above - small. In order for the bark to hold the water, before transplanting, it must be soaked for a couple of days for impregnation, after it is drained and rinsed with clean water. Also, if the humidity in the room is lowered, sphagnum moss is added along with the bark, mixing them together. Another important is the absence of peat in the substrate.
To ensure that the condition of the substrate and the roots of the orchid are under your visual control, the pot must be chosen transparent. Equally important is the size of the pot.
A very good indicator of the presence or absence of moisture is the color of the roots. If the roots are green or light green, then you do not need to water the orchid, and if their color changes to light gray, this is a signal for watering.. It is not necessary to pity the water when watering, pour the amount of water at which the roots will turn green. Watering time also comes when the substrate dries out and the pot becomes light. Another signal of dryness of the flower may be a listless leaf.
Dry and brown Phalaenopsis orchid roots indicate insufficient watering
Always consider the temperature of the water, it should not be cold or hot, only at room temperature. Water hardness is also important, it is better to use boiled or rainy.
Over time, the owners of orchids get used to the features of watering and do it without much effort and problems.
For a suitable development and systematic flowering of orchids, lighting is one of the main factors. Considering the change of seasons in our habitats, it is very difficult to provide uniform, suitable lighting for the plant. therefore throughout the year it is desirable to change the location of flowers: in winter and autumn it is better to place them on the southern and western windows, and in spring and summer - on the eastern and light northern ones.
If there is not enough light, use artificial light.
If the orchid does not receive sufficient illumination through the window, it is necessary to use lamps of artificial light, which can be, for example, special fitolamps. Continuing to use them is not recommended, but only in the evening from 6 to 10 pm.
The temperature regime for phalaenopsis should not be changed due to the change of season and weather conditions.
If the difference between night and day temperature does not exceed 5 degrees - Phalaenopsis will consistently give new flower buds.
Phalaenopsis that grow at home, not very demanding of high humidity. Humidity from 40 to 70% is perfect for them.. On hot days in the summer, as well as during heating in the house, this indicator may be lower, and this can lead to the fact that the growth of the plant stops, the flowers and buds dry up, and the leaves turn yellow.
In this case, you need to increase the humidity of the air with the help of humidifiers. You can also use a container with water or wet clay, which is poured into a large tray, covered with a lattice and installed under the pots of orchids.
To feed the roots, a special orchid feed is used. This procedure should be carried out during flowering. In summer, the frequency of feeding - 2 times a month, in winter - 1 time per month.
The feeding procedure depends on the selected fertilizer, it can be root and foliar.
Brief description of cultivation
- Bloom. May bloom at any time, the duration of flowering 2-6 months.
- Illumination. It needs scattered bright light (eastern, western and northeast windows are suitable) or in small penumbra.
- Temperature. The maximum allowable temperature is about 42 degrees, and the minimum is 12 degrees. A comfortable flower at a temperature of - from 15 to 25 degrees.
- Watering. This procedure is carried out after the substrate in the pot dries completely.
- Air humidity. From 30 to 40 percent, while in the room should be good ventilation.
- Fertilizer. Once a week with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer.
- Rest period. Not very pronounced.
- Transfer. When the soil mixture is sour and compacted, as a rule, 1 time in 2-4 years.
- Breeding. Vegetative (side shoots).
- Harmful insects. Mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, scythes, slugs.
- Diseases. Fusarium, rust, anthracnose, spotted, black, brown, gray and root rot.
Features orchids phalaenopsis
To grow phalaenopsis orchid in room conditions, you need to know some of the features, because such a plant is unusual to middle latitudes. In the wild, such a flower prefers to grow in wet plains and mountain forests, while growing on trees, therefore it needs a special microclimate, and it will have to be created artificially in a room. The most important features of such an orchid:
- The substrate and the container in which the orchid is located are needed only for support.
- The root system must be airborne, and it needs light.
- The roots of such a plant are green, in the wild they extract rainwater and moisture from the atmosphere, and they take nutrients from tree bark. They are directly involved in photosynthesis, in this regard, they need a sufficient amount of light.
- This plant still has aerial roots, they branch out and look for nutrients. In this regard, we must constantly monitor that they do not fall into the nearby flower pot.
The rosette consists of succulent sheet plates, which are placed in two rows. Curved peduncles rather long. The inflorescences of racemes are composed of butterfly flowers. Flowers can be painted in a variety of colors, for example: in lilac, yellow, red, purple, white, green, brown, etc. Often, the lip of a flower is clearly visible against the background of tiger, striped, monotonous or mesh petals, as it has a contrasting color . This type of orchid is monopodial, which means that it does not form a bulb. This flower does not have a distinct rest period. Flowering is observed twice a year (in spring and autumn), but with very good care, they can bloom 3 times in 1 year.
Orchid Phalaenopsis care at home
To grow phalaenopsis orchid in room conditions, you need to find the most suitable place for it, find the right mode of fertilizing, watering and temperature, and still need to protect the flower from various diseases and harmful insects.
To place a flower pot, it is recommended to choose a window of east, west or northeast orientation. In the case when it is necessary to put it on the window sill, located in the southern part of the room, then the pot is placed on the table, which stands near the window closed by a curtain, due to which a slight shading is created. If the direct rays of the sun fall on the phalaenopsis, then burns will appear on the surface of the flowers and foliage, which are outwardly similar to spots. So that the bush does not grow tilted in one direction, it should be rotated 180 degrees once every 15–20 days. However, during the formation of the buds of the bush do not bother.
The plant blooms in a shaded place at a temperature of 18 to 25 degrees, while the bush can stand for a short time in the heat (up to 42 degrees) or in coolness (not less than 12 degrees). However, it should not be abused, it is better if the bush will be at a favorable temperature for it (from 15 to 25 degrees).
Humidity should not be too high (from 30 to 40 percent), and the room should be well ventilated. If the humidity is lower, the foliage will lose its turgor, and the flowers will begin to fly around. To prevent this, a pot of orchids should be put on a tray filled with wet pebbles. At excessively high humidity on the roots may appear rot, and spots on the foliage. Experts do not advise to moisten the orchid from the sprayer even in very strong heat, because the liquid flows into the leafy sinuses and into the core, and because of this, it can cause rot. And even when liquid evaporates from the surface of the bush, burns can form on it.
Feed the plant should be during irrigation, with the full complex fertilizer Kemira-Lux added to the liquid (1 liter of water 1 gram). Periodic feedings 1 time in half a month. Top dressing can be carried out 1 time in 7 days, however in this case concentration of a nutritious mix should be less weak. Feed the plant should always after watering.
It is necessary to water a flower only after the substrate dries out completely, however it should not be dry for a long time. When growing a plant in a transparent pot, the disappearance of moisture from the walls is a signal for watering. If the plant does not have enough water, then the color of green roots becomes more pale. In the case when the pot is opaque, it will be necessary to scoop the soil mixture to check how much it has dried. During irrigation, it is impossible for water to fall on the foliage, so it needs to be poured directly into the soil mixture or used the lower irrigation method; for this, the pot is immersed in a container filled with water, and the substrate must be soaked with liquid through the holes intended for drainage.
Irrigation water should be soft and clean, it should be passed through a filter, and then boiled. Also distilled water is suitable for this purpose. 1 time in 4 weeks the plant will need to arrange a shower or instead it can be washed under a tap. Then the bush is very well wiped. It is impossible to over-wet a flower, because its foliage will begin to wither, and the growth point is likely to rot. This can lead to regrowth of the lateral shoot, but in the worst case it will lead to the destruction of the bush.
When is this orchid transplanted? This is done if it has grown in the same soil mixture and container for 2 or 3 years. As a rule, during this time, caking of the dough mixture occurs, its souring, as a result, it becomes unsuitable for cultivation, so the substrate must be replaced. More transplantation may be needed when the root system begins to branch very strongly and grows through the drainage holes. This procedure is carried out when the bush ottsvetet.
If phalaenopsis is completely healthy and is grown in the substrate of a large fraction, then it is carefully transferred to a larger new pot, at the bottom of which there is a good drainage layer. The voids in the pot are filled with a new substrate, while its composition should include the bark of the middle and small fraction, and sphagnum should be added to it. The store has a ready-made substrate for orchids, but it can be made with your own hands; for this, a good drainage layer is made from small pieces of foam or from expanded clay, then the crust of the middle fraction is poured, and then the small fraction is to be combined with crushed sphagnum . It is necessary to take into account that while the bark is dry, it passes the liquid relatively quickly. In this regard, before the preparation of the substrate, the bark should be thoroughly washed, then it is left for 2 days in water in order for it to swell. Then the bark should be washed again with clean water.
After the bush blooms, you need to watch the old arrow for some time. If the arrow becomes faded and yellow, then it must be cut off. However, if the arrow is juicy and green, then it is likely that after a couple of months of rest, flower buds form on it. It should be borne in mind that the new arrow, before it will bookmark flower buds, will have to grow. In the event that the old arrow is excessively long, it is necessary to shorten it, while at the same time it should be cut 10 mm higher than the developed kidney. It should be borne in mind that the higher pruned peduncle, the fewer flowers formed on the side arrow. However, the peduncle cannot be cut below the third kidney, otherwise the plant will not bloom for a relatively long time.
The Phalaenopsis orchid is able to bloom at any time of the year, the condition of the bush and the conditions for its cultivation have a significant influence on this. Duration of flowering varies from 2 to 6 months. As a rule, the bush blooms twice in 1 year, but sometimes it blooms the third time over the course of 1 year. In diameter, the flowers reach 2–15 centimeters, while there may be 3–40 of them on 1 peduncle. The number of flowers formed is influenced by the degree of branching of the peduncle and how favorable the growing conditions for such a plant are. Sometimes the length of the peduncle can reach about 100 cm, while it can accommodate about 100 pieces of fairly large flowers. The flowers have a delicate smell and a variety of colors: from single yellow, red, white or purple to a variety of variations of specks, specks and veins on the main background.
3 months after the end of flowering orchid should bloom again. However, in some cases, the bush can actively grow, but the flowering does not occur. What to do to phalaenopsis bloom? First you need to understand why the bush does not bloom. Possible reasons:
- Very poor lighting. Provide the plant with normal light and it will have to bloom.
- Orchid overnourished with nitrogen. We must wait until all the nitrogen is recycled orchid, while at this time it should be fed only phosphorus.
- The bush is very tired, and so that he regained his strength, he would need more time. We must wait for some time, and then stimulate the flowering of the orchid.
In order to stimulate flowering, use the method of insufficient watering using the tool "Ovary" or "Bud." It is also recommended to lower the night temperature, as a result the difference between the temperatures during the day and at night should be at least 6–8 degrees. Due to a sharp change in temperature, flowering is stimulated.
As a rule, at the end of flowering the old arrow begins to dry, and therefore it is removed. However, in some cases, the arrows do not dry, and their color remains green, in which case it will be necessary to decide what to do:
- leave flower spike:
- cut the spike to the height of a fork,
- remove flower spike completely.
In the case when the flower spike was cut, it can be lowered into the water if desired, and after a while a baby can form on it. If the old arrow was left on the bush, then after some time lateral branches form on it, and then flowers form on them, however, it should be noted that in this case the flowering will not be very lush compared to what is observed on new peduncles.
Breeding phalaenopsis kids
There are orchids for which the rhizome division method is used for reproduction, but this method is not suitable for phalaenopsis. In the wild, the reproduction of such a plant occurs new shoots and seeds. However, it cannot be propagated by seeds under room conditions.
The easiest way to propagate such a flower in a vegetative way, for this cut side shoots, grown on the peduncle or at the base of the rosette of leaves. Cut escape only after flowering has ended, and the bush will rest for 1-2 months.Only those shoots are jigged, in which 2 leaf plates are formed, and the length of the air roots should be about 50 mm. However, you should not allow the outgrowth of children, as this will negatively affect the state of the parent outlet. After separation, the baby should be left for 24 hours to dry, and then it is planted in a substrate consisting of fines bark, while at the same time it is necessary to make a mini-teplichka over the shoot, where the temperature should be from 22 to 25 degrees.
The lateral processes in the bush are formed very rarely and only when there are irregularities in the care of the flower. In this regard, if the bush does not give the kids, the awakening of the sleeping buds can be caused artificially. To do this, at the base of the peduncle, which has faded, you need to find a sleeping kidney, with a sharp blade you need to make a not very deep semicircular incision of the base of the covering scale, then it is removed with tweezers. Next, the kidney is treated with fresh birch juice or a solution of growth-stimulating agents. At the site of the incision after 1-2 months a sheet rosette consisting of several plates should form, and in 3 months the roots will develop. To speed up this process, you need to put a bag of polyethylene on the bush, the fact is that a humid and warm microclimate contributes to faster growth of children.
You can get the baby using the trimmed peduncle. To begin with, it is necessary to remove the scales from the bud (how to do this, described in detail above), then dip the 40–70 mm peduncle into the solution of the complex mineral fertilizer (0.005%). The peduncle should be placed in a mini-hothouse, and it also provides regular replacement of water.
Phalaenopsis Diseases and Their Treatment
Orchid phalaenopsis can get non-infectious and infectious diseases. It should be borne in mind that such a flower can get sick only if it is improperly looked after.
Most often, this orchid suffers from a fungal disease such as fusarium. The bush first affects the root system, after which the disease spreads to the whole plant. Most often, the disease begins to develop in the event that there is an excess of moisture. The affected bush can not be cured, therefore it should be burned. However, other rot (for example: brown, gray, black and root), and also anthracnose, rust and blotchiness in some cases can be cured by spraying a solution of a fungicidal preparation (Topsin-M, Fundazol, etc.), you will need 2 treatments with a break of 1 , 5 weeks.
Often enough, the orchid has urticaria. In a diseased plant, lesions of the leaf plates are observed, which at an early stage is manifested by large spots, reaching a diameter of 20–30 mm in diameter. The cause of the development of the disease can be increased humidity, excessively low air temperature and poor ventilation in the room. It is enough to start properly caring for the flower, and he will recover.
Phalaenopsis falls ill with botrytis also with excessive air humidity and poor ventilation, and flowers are affected. First, spots of a dark brown color are formed on the surface of the petals, and then they wither. If the room temperature increases, the disease will develop more slowly. In addition, we must try to improve the ventilation in the room, and treat the bush with a bactericidal agent.
The development of noncommunicable diseases occurs for several reasons: excessive illumination, uneven watering, the use of pesticides, improper feeding. At the patient specimen, the tips of the leaf plates begin to dry up, the roots die off, and other orchid tissues are also affected, and various spots develop. Try to find and eliminate the cause, because of which the bush is sick, and you will have a chance to save it. However, we must bear in mind that it is very difficult to reanimate such a plant.
A spider mite appears on a flower only if the humidity in the room is very low. To understand that such a pest has appeared on the bush can be done by the presence of a silver-colored spider web on the foliage. If there is a little of such a pest on a plant, then you can get rid of it by treatment with soapy water, which also helps to remove aphids and cherries from the orchid. If there are a lot of ticks on a bush, then for their destruction it is necessary to use a solution of an acaricidal preparation.
Even on phalaenopsis, thrips can settle, which infect flowers and leafy plates, specks of brown color are formed on their surface. In order to get rid of such a pest, treatment with a systemic insecticide will be required (for example: Aktellik, Izatrin or Khostavik), however, experts recommend using Fitoverm for this purpose, which is less toxic.
If bumps have formed on the surface of the leaf plates, then this is a sign that scythos have settled on the plant. Such a pest sucks the juice from the flower, and it gradually fades. To get rid of such a harmful insect can be exactly the same as the worm, for this the orchid will need to be treated twice with soapy water with a break of 7 days.
The greatest harm to the flower is caused by slugs. Since this pest has a relatively large size, it is able to embrace the shoots, flowers and foliage of a plant in a short time. To catch such a gastropod, on the surface of the substrate it is necessary to spread a cucumber or carrot, cut into pieces, then you have to wait until the slug crawls out from the shelter, after which it can be removed. If it is not possible to get rid of such a pest with the help of baits, it is possible to treat the bush with an insecticidal preparation such as mezurol or metaldehyde.
Phalaenopsis differs from other orchids in that it is fairly simple to grow. If everything is done correctly and the plant is provided with proper care, then it will grow strong and healthy, and no pest or disease will be intimidated. This plant in urban conditions with proper care is capable of growing and blooming for many years, delighting everyone with its beautiful flowers. The main thing is to remember that the orchid remains healthy and blossoms in a timely manner, it should ensure the proper watering and temperature, sufficient illumination and timely feeding.
Phalaenopsis Orchid: home care
For normal development and flowering, the plant needs very good and long-lasting (at least 12 hours) coverage during the day. If you plan to grow phalaenopsis on a windowsill, then preference should be given to the east, north-east or west windows. Northern and southern windows are not very suitable for this indoor flower. The first give little light, and will need artificial lighting. By placing the plant on the window sill of a south window, you risk exposing it to the effects of scorching sunlight. In this case, the flower must be protected from them or put it not on the window sill, but near the window, on a table or stand so as to avoid direct sunlight. To ensure that the plant develops evenly and does not look “one-sided”, periodically (about once every 10 days) turn it relative to the light source. The exception is the period of bud formation. At this time, the flower is not recommended to touch.
Watering and humidity
Phalaenopsis should be watered regularly and abundantly. But! The usual rules and techniques of watering applied to other indoor plants, for orchids are not suitable. It is possible to water phalaenopsis only after complete drying of the soil. This rule should be observed strictly! Especially if the plant is kept in relatively cool conditions. Waterlogging of the soil, combined with low temperature, is destructive for the plant! Although overdrying is also very undesirable, it is better to slightly dry the soil in the pot than to allow excess moisture. Determining the need for watering Phalaenopsis is usually not difficult. The traditional orchid pot is transparent, and through its walls one can clearly see whether there is enough moisture or it's time to water.
When watering especially should beware of water entering the leaf bosoms. To completely eliminate this danger and to achieve full and uniform wetting of the substrate in a pot with phalaenopsis, use the method of irrigation - “immersion”. With this watering, the plant pot is dipped in a container with water so that the water level is slightly below the top level of the pot, and water saturation occurs through the drainage holes.
For irrigation, use only well-settled, and even better - filtered or boiled water. Sometimes watered and distilled water.
Maintaining the necessary humidity (optimally at the level of 30-40%), a necessary and very important condition for keeping phalaenopsis at home. At the same time it is extremely undesirable to spray it! Water will inevitably run down the leaves in the sinuses and the heart of the plant, which is fraught with decay. Therefore, it is better to use another method of air humidification. As an example - to put a pot with an orchid in a tray with wet clay. You can periodically wash the phalaenopsis under a warm shower, but after that you must wipe the leaves dry and do not immediately put the flower on a bright place. Until the leaves are completely dry, let them stand a little in the penumbra.
For fertilizing phalaenopsis is best to use specialized fertilizers. A good result is the use of Kemira fertilizer in concentration - a gram of fertilizer per liter of water. Phalaenopsis feeds this solution after watering twice a month. If the concentration of fertilizers is reduced by half, then it can be fertilized after each watering (once a week).
This procedure applies mainly to the arrows - flower stalks, after flowering. How to cut it, he will tell you himself. Do not cut the arrow immediately after flowering. Wait a while. If the phalaenopsis peduncle began to dry completely, it means that it has outlived its own, and it can be safely cut off all. But if he stayed green, it means that he is still able to give flowers. If the arrow has grown too long, then it can be shortened to the desired kidney, leaving about an inch of the arrow above it. It is not advisable to cut it too low. Leave at least three buds. Otherwise, the next flowering will have to wait a long time.
It is believed that every two to three years the soil substrate for phalaenopsis should be changed. During this time, it becomes unusable (sour, clotted). But if the substrate was made correctly and efficiently, then this may not happen. The need for phalaenopsis transplantation may be caused rather by a strong growth of the roots when the pot becomes small for them. To determine this is very simple. The roots in the pot strongly intertwine, branch, pass through the drainage holes. The technology of correct orchid transplantation is not very simple and worthy of a separate article. But in most cases it will be enough to transfer to a larger pot with the addition of fresh soil. As for the soil substrate for phalaenopsis, then only an experienced florist, who is beginning to use the prepared substrate, can correctly make it up.
Unlike some other members of the orchid family, the reproduction of phalaenopsis at home by seed and root division is excluded. Only the vegetative method remains - lateral shoots. Shoots usually appear at the root of the rosette or peduncle. It sounds paradoxical, but the natural occurrence of such shoots indicates improper care for phalaenopsis. This means that in most cases, shoots for breeding can not wait. But there is a solution. Their appearance can be caused artificially.
To do this, on the old peduncle (at its base), select a sleeping bud and remove the covering scale from it. To make the scales easier to remove, at its base, carefully make a semicircular incision along the contour of the kidney. After that, remove the scale with tweezers. Treat the kidney with a stimulant (Heteroauxin, Epin, Kornevin, etc.). Good result gives processing natural birch sap or aloe juice. On top of the arrow you can wear a PE package to create greenhouse conditions. If everything is done correctly, then in a couple of months there will be leaves, and in another month and roots.
Regardless of whether the shoots appeared in a natural way or are artificially grown, do not allow them to grow much, this process takes place to the detriment of the mother plant. For separation, it is enough that the process has a pair of leaflets and air roots (approximately 5 cm in length). Before rooting, separate the baby a little dry (enough days). Planting Phalaenopsis baby is best in the same substrate as for an adult orchid, but a smaller fraction. That is, if the pieces of bark are too large, chop them. After planting, create greenhouse conditions for the seedling. To do this, you can put it in minitplichku or cover with a transparent cap. The temperature for successful rooting + 22-25 degrees.
If phalaenopsis does not bloom
The most common cause is a lack of light, but there may be others.
The break between the blooms of an orchid lasts about three months, this time is usually enough to rest the plant. But it happens that the term has come, and flowering does not occur. However, the leaves are developing well, growing young. The reason may be incorrectly chosen fertilizers. For flowering, fertilizers with a high phosphorus content are necessary, and if it contains predominantly nitrogen, the leaves will mainly develop to the detriment of the formation of flower buds.
Phalaenopsis does not flow in time and for a simpler reason - the previous flowering took too much power and, therefore, a longer period is needed for recovery.
What should I do in these cases? First of all, provide good lighting (if it is insufficient) and analyze the care of falenopsis. Do you do everything right? Flowering can and stimulate. For this purpose, special preparations are used (for example, “Bud”). But the most effective way is natural. Average daily temperature drops orchids not only do not harm, but also contribute to the formation of buds. If at night the temperature of the content will be less than 6 degrees below daytime, this will very well stimulate flowering. For obvious reasons, this method is most effective in the cold season.
Phalaenopsis orchid care video after purchase
Phalaenopsis orchid transplantation should be timely, often and for no apparent reason, this procedure does not make sense, and what is worse, it can also harm the plant. The frequency of transplanting a flower should not exceed 1 every two to three years.
An important condition for transplantation is to follow the sequence of stages of transplantation. The first thing to do is get a flower from the pot. To do this without disturbing the integrity of the flower, you need to slightly mash the pot, if this does not help, then you need to cut the pot, remove the flower and put it in a bowl or other convenient container. Thereafter wash the root system and cut the damaged parts of the rootsand also remove the remnants of the old substrate. Do not forget about the disinfection of the instrument, which removes unwanted root areas, and the disinfection of cut-off sites. It is recommended to remove not only unnecessary patches of roots, but also yellow leaves, and dry peduncles.
Step by step instructions for transplanting Phalaenopsis orchids
After the operations and making sure that there is no water remaining on the flower, we leave it to dry. Drying time depends on the air temperature, but it is best to do it at night.
The latest orchid transplant procedure it will be placed in a pot with a new soil and the first watering after transplanting.
First you need prepare the soil from a mixture of moss and barkwhich should not be important in order to avoid mold. Cut off the top of the orchid with a few sheets and roots and place it in a pot with prepared soil. The tool that is used to cut, must be sterile, and the cuts must be treated with ash.
Video on the reproduction of Phalaenopsis orchid by dividing the bush
To properly trim the orchid, you need to adhere to some rules. Be sure to make sure that the flower is completely dried and yellowed, if you cut it earlier, new flowers will not appear soon, as it will take time to recover. It should be removed so that a small stump is left at the base.
If on the flower stalk, before it has withered, there are buds from which new flowers or babies may appear in the future, then cut it a couple of centimeters higher than these formations. The stem, which has no buds and is completely damaged, is completely removed. After that, it is desirable to transplant the plant.
Homeland and the spread of orchids
In the distant Malayan archipelago, the mysterious Phillipines, full of the wonders of Australia, extraordinary plants grow in great variety, isolated by botanists into a separate genus "phalaenopsis" of the orchid family. Flowers of orchids - a real miracle of nature. Фаленопсисы завораживают формой и цветовой гаммой лепестков. Венчики напоминают лица гномов и мордашки животных, крошечных эльфов, танцующих фей, сказочных насекомых, волшебных птиц из страны счастья «Оз».From the richest palette, colored petals in different colors (white, gently pink, blue and cream, red and purple, monophonic and with various patterns) it is impossible to look away. With its extraordinary beauty, orchids have won the hearts of people around the world.
The unusual orchids
Yes! Orchids are a mystery. Everything in them is unusual, ranging from the requirements for the substrate, and ending with the methods of reproduction. Phalaenopsis do not require highly fertile soils, but are content with ordinary garbage: shredded bark of trees, pieces of foam, rotten knots. Instead of a special flower pot, the usual wicker basket is sufficient. High ability to use the conditions of habitats to create their own comfort made the orchid family the most common on earth. They have several thousand species of naturally growing forms, many varieties and hybrids created by breeders.
Biological features of phalaenopsis
Phalaenopsis in Russian means butterfly orchid (moth orchid). Differs from other genera in the absence of branching. A single, tall stem, growing in length from 10 to 100 cm or more, forms a tall peduncle, ending in an inflorescence, on which unusual flowers gradually bloom for several months a year. It belongs to the group of flowering and fragrant plants. Flowering lasts up to 3 months or more. Every year a leaf rosette at the base of the stem is replenished with 1-2 large dark green leaves. The plant is light and moisture-loving, but prefers a moderate substrate moistening. Phalaenopsis remembers well the conditions of life in its homeland and requires the observance of habitual life support factors. Therefore, receiving a gift or buying an orchid, you need to adapt it to the home living conditions.
What is the adaptation of orchids to home conditions
Like all flowering plants, phalaenopsis is sick and affected by pests, it is difficult to get used to the new factors of life. The wilting of the flowers, the drying of the buds is a natural reaction of the Phalaenopsis to new environmental conditions. There is an adaptation. How to help the plant to quickly adapt to new living conditions? In order not to transfer pests and diseases to other plants of a home flower garden, phalaenopsis should be carefully inspected and quarantined for 10-15 days, creating the most optimal conditions for living in a new place (heat, humidity, lighting). Before placing in quarantine, the plant is carefully inspected.
Orchid inspection: what to look for
- If, when viewed through a transparent pot or other container, a whitish mold is visible on the substrate, it is a fungus. The plant is subject to immediate transplantation to another substrate. In other cases, with a transfer you can not rush.
- The roots must be green, some of them may be located outside the substrate. This is normally functioning aerial roots.
- The flowers in the inflorescences should be closed and have the shape of a round bud due to tightly divided sepals and corolla petals.
- The appearance of fresh green tips on the roots - evidence that the adaptation was successful and the plant can be placed in an environment of other indoor cultures.
- If during the inspection the substrate is excessively wet, which may be due to the absence or a small number of drainage holes at the bottom and side walls of the pot, you need to carefully make additional holes without removing the flower from the container.
- If the phalaenopsis looks healthy after quarantine, it is not necessary to transfer it to a new substrate.
- Placing Phalaenopsis in the home flower garden, you need to temporarily pritenit flower from excessive flow of bright light.
At home, you can grow terrestrial and epiphytic phalaenopsis species. For normal development, phalaenopsis requires an acidic substrate. For terrestrial forms of orchids, they buy ready-made or independently prepare a special substrate, which consists of the following components in different ratios: • high peat (pH = 4-5 units), • heather land (pH = 5.5 units), • rotted coniferous litter or coniferous sawdust, • sand, • baking powder (cut leaves of beech, oak, pieces of moss or foam, perlite, agrovermiculite) and other additives that create an acidic environment with pH = 4.5-5.8 to 6.0 units. Epiphytic phalaenopsis species can be grown on a substrate of crushed pine or coniferous bark with a particle size of not more than 1-2 cm.
Air humidity requirement
Under natural conditions, phalaenopsis grows under a canopy of moist forest, therefore, in their home flower garden, they prefer an increased humidity of the environment, which should be close to 60-80%. If it is impossible to create such conditions of air humidity in an apartment or other living room (office), then the orchid is placed in a special greenhouse-terrarium.
Methods of watering orchids
Proper watering orchids
- It is more practical to water Phalaenopsis through a tray, lowering the flower for 5-10 minutes in a container with prepared water,
- can be watered in the usual way from a watering can,
- you can not often spray orchid. It is better to wipe the leaves of the plant with a soft, damp cloth or a cotton pad.
Recognizing Dracula among other orchids is the easiest ...
In the apartment and other official premises phalaenopsis better to have on the western and eastern windows or next to the stands. Insufficient illumination on the northern windows or in dimly lit office premises creates conditions for the rapid growth of the orchid's vegetative mass and very modest flowering. In order for phalaenopsis to bring joy with long flowering, it needs artificial lighting with a lack of lighting. For additional lighting, phytolamps, LED and other lamps are used.
• maintaining the summer temperature within +25 .. + 30 * C and humidity of 60-80%, • in the summer months daily spraying the leaves, • to create the necessary humidity using humidifiers. Plants are placed on pallets with wet claydite, • winter temperatures in the room are not lower than + 15 * C, • on cloudy days, additional lighting is necessary, • lowering of night temperatures promotes the formation of flower buds. • Faded orchids with cut flower stalks are very sensitive to temperature differences. The rest period at a temperature of +8 .. + 10 * C without drafts and bright lighting.
Phalaenopsis orchid transplant
Phalaenopsis transplantation into a large capacity is carried out in 2 years, following certain rules:
- the plant from the old container is released by transfer. Old capacity is cut or broken so as not to damage aerial roots,
- the liberated plant, together with a lump of substrate, is transferred to a new container. Carefully add a new substrate around the flower,
- the transplanted plant is moderately watered and placed in the light part of the room, using shading in the first days,
- After transplantation, Phalaenopsis is fed after 3-4 weeks.
Top dressing phalaenopsis
Top dressing Phalaenopsis spend root and foliar way. All types of dressings are carried out according to the recommendations. In each phase of development, special fertilizers are used to promote the active growth of the vegetative mass, the onset of flowering and its duration.
- Phalaenopsis cannot be fertilized during dormancy,
- can not be fertilized within 3-4 weeks after transplantation,
- It is not recommended to feed sick and weakened plants,
- Do not use root dressing during flowering,
- with foliar feeding, the nutrient solution is not allowed to reach the flowers and buds of the plant.
Root top dressing
We can recommend mineral fertilizers for root dressings:
- in the period of active development of the above-ground mass and roots of “Mr.-Color-Universal”,
- during the laying of peduncles and budding “Mr.-color Orchid”,
- during the flowering period to increase the duration of flowering and color intensity "Bona forte».
Recommended fertilizers for soil dressings can be replaced by others - Roson, Kemira-luxury, Greenworld.
Rules for root dressing:
• Before the root dressing plants must be watered, • To prevent the nutrient solution from getting on the leaves and flowers, feeding is carried out through the pan. Pour nutrient solution and immerse in it for 15-20 minutes a container with a plant. Then allow to drain the excess solution from the container through the drainage and side holes. Tolerate the plant in a warm place. The solution from the pan is drained.
Extra root top dressings use:
- During the period of active growth of the root system, so as not to burn the young roots with a nutrient solution,
- With a damaged rhizome,
- With a strong weakening of plants due to lack of nutrition or imbalance of nutrients entering the plants.
For foliar fertilizing can be recommended:
- universal fertilizer "Doctor FOLI starter" in the period of growing vegetative mass,
- it is better to use “Doctor FOLI - Orchid” when laying the peduncles, in the phase of budding and flowering.
Planting and caring for phalaenopsis (briefly)
- Bloom: at any time from 2 to 6 months.
- Lighting: bright diffused light (windows of western, eastern or northeast orientation) or light penumbra.
- Temperature: maximum - 42 ˚C, minimum - 12 C, comfortable - within 15-25.
- Watering: after complete drying of the soil.
- Air humidity: 30-40% with good ventilation.
- Top dressing: a solution of complete mineral fertilizer weekly.
- Rest period: not pronounced.
- Transfer: as souring and caking of the substrate, about once every 2-4 years.
- Breeding: vegetatively (side shoots).
- Pests: mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, scutes, slugs.
- Diseases: Fusarium, rust, anthracnose, blotch, black, brown, gray and root rot.
Phalaenopsis Orchid - growing features
Any plant has its own preferences, and such a rare flower in our latitudes is even more so. The peculiarities of growing phalaenopsis are due to the fact that they come from moist mountain and lowland forests, where they grow on trees, therefore they require a microclimate, which in our dwellings must be created artificially. Here are some features of phalaenopsis:
- - the pot and soil in which phalaenopsis grows, it is required almost exclusively as a support,
- - Phalaenopsis roots must be in the air and in the light,
- - Phalaenopsis roots are green, in nature they receive moisture and rainwater from the atmosphere, and food - from the bark of the trees on which the flower grows. The roots are involved in photosynthesis, so they must be exposed to light,
- - besides the usual roots Phalaenopsis has air roots, branching in a constant search for food, so make sure that they do not climb into the adjacent pots.
Juicy leaves of phalaenopsis, located in two rows, form a rosette. Peduncles long, curved, butterfly flowers gathered in racemes. The variety of colors is amazing: purple, lilac, white, yellow, green and red, brown. Often the lip of the flower stands out against the background of the petals (monophonic, tiger, mesh or striped) in contrasting colors. Phalaenopsis, as vandas and dendrobiums, are monopodal orchids, that is, they do not form a bulb.
The most pleasant feature of phalaenopsis is that they do not have a pronounced rest period: their flowers bloom twice a year - in spring and autumn, although persistent flower growers achieve three flowering blooms.
How to care for phalaenopsis.
Phalaenopsis care consists in choosing a place for a flower, in properly organized watering, fertilizing, temperature control and protection from pests and diseases. It is best to place the phalaenopsis pot on the west, east or northeast window sill. If this is not possible, and you have to put an orchid on the south side, put it on a table near the window, behind a curtain that creates a light shadow - direct sunlight leaves burns on the plant that look like spots on the leaves and flowers of phalaenopsis. Every 2-3 weeks, turn the plant 180º so that it does not lean in one direction. But during the formation of buds better plant does not disturb.
Phalaenopsis blooms in penumbra at a temperature of 18-25 ºC, and the plant can endure some time and a higher temperature, up to 35 and even up to 42 ºC, and lower - up to 12 ºC. But do not try the power of phalaenopsis, try to keep the temperature within 15-25 ºC.
Humidity is needed 30-40 percent, while you need good ventilation of the room. With insufficient moisture, the leaves lose their turgor, and the flowers fall off. To avoid such trouble, place the plant on a pallet with wet pebbles. Too high humidity can cause rotting of the orchid roots and stains on the leaves. Spraying phalaenopsis is undesirable even in very hot pores, as water flows into the core and into the leaf axils, which can lead to plant rot. In addition, evaporating from the surface of the leaves, moisture can cause them to burn.
Top dressing phalaenopsis carried out by watering by adding to the water the full complex fertilizer Kemira-Lux at the rate of 1g per liter twice a month. You can feed the orchid weekly, but then the concentration of fertilizer must be reduced. Feeding is poured only on the wet substrate.
How to water Phalaenopsis.
Phalaenopsis watering is carried out after the soil is completely dry, but it should not be dry for a long time. If you grow phalaenopsis in a transparent container, then the signal that it is time to water the orchid is the lack of moisture on the walls of the pot. In addition, due to lack of moisture, the green roots of the flower are made lighter. If the container is opaque, you will have to scrape the substrate to determine how deeply it dries. Do not water the orchid over the leaves, water the substrate, or use the lower-watering method of the orchid — immerse the pot in a container with water to saturate the substrate with moisture through the drainage holes. Water for watering Phalaenopsis should be soft and clean: it is not enough to filter the water, it needs to be boiled. Or use distilled water for irrigation. Once a month Phalaenopsis likes to take a shower or wash under a tap, after which the plant should be wiped dry. Avoid overfilling phalaenopsis, otherwise its leaves will become sluggish and may rot the growing point. At best, the orchid will have a side shoot, at worst - the plant will die.
How to transplant phalaenopsis.
When is phalaenopsis transplanted? When the plant is in the same pot and in the same substrate for 2-3 years. Usually, by this time, the substrate cracks, sours and becomes unusable, therefore, its replacement is required. If you pay attention to the strong branching of the roots and their germination through the drainage holes, this is also a sign that it is time to repot the phalaenopsis orchid. This should be done after flowering. If your orchid is unhealthy and planted in the substrate of a large fraction, then it can be carefully transferred to a new, large container with a drainage layer and filled with fresh substrate, the main component of which is the bark of the small and medium fraction. In addition, sphagnum moss is a substrate for phalaenopsis. You can buy a ready-made substrate, and you can buy components and carefully prepare the mixture for your overseas beauty: put a drainage of expanded clay or foam pieces, then the bark of the middle fraction, then the fines mixed with chopped moss on the bottom of the pot. Keep in mind that dry bark quickly passes water, so before you make a substrate out of it, you need to rinse it and leave it for a couple of days in the water to swell, then rinse the bark again in clean water.
How to cut phalaenopsis.
If phalaenopsis has faded, watch for a while how the old arrow behaves. If it began to turn yellow and fade, then remove it without regret, but if it is still green and juicy, then, most likely, after two months of rest, flower buds will appear on it again. The new arrow should still grow, and only then lay the buds and give flowers. If the old arrow is too long, shorten it by cutting 1 cm above the developed bud. By the way, the lower you cut the peduncle, the more flowers will be on the side arrow. In any case, you do not need to trim the peduncle below the third bud: you will have to wait a long time for flowering on the shortened arrow.
Blooming orchids phalaenopsis.
These plants can bloom at any time of the year, and depending on the general condition of the orchid and the conditions in which it is contained, flowering can last from two months to six months. Phalaenopsis usually bloom twice a year, but sometimes a third bloom happens within one year. Flowers ranging in size from 2 cm to 15 cm in diameter are located on the peduncle in an amount of from three to forty pieces. How many flowers will be on the arrow depends primarily on how branched the flower spike and how comfortable for the orchid are the conditions created by you. Some orchids have a peduncle up to 1 m in length, which houses up to hundreds of large flowers! The delicate scent of phalaenopsis flowers is just as attractive as their color variety: from plain white, yellow, purple, red to different variations of specks, spots and veins on the main background.
Почему фаленопсис не цветет.
Если с момента прошлого цветения прошло три месяца, значит, наступило время фаленопсису цвести опять. But there are cases when the leaves grow, and phalaenopsis does not bloom and does not bloom. How to make phalaenopsis bloom? First you need to find out the reasons for this behavior of the orchid. And the reasons may be:
- - insufficient lighting (eliminate the cause and wait for flowering),
- - the plant is overfed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers (you will have to wait until the nitrogen is processed by the plant, at this time you apply only phosphorus as a top-dressing),
- - the plant is simply tired, and it needs a longer period for recuperation (wait a bit, and then stimulate the flowering of phalaenopsis).
Stimulate the flowering of phalaenopsis insufficient watering using the drug "ovary" or "Bud." In addition, it would be nice to reduce the night temperature so that the difference between day and night temperatures becomes at least 6–8 degrees. Such sudden drops will make the orchid bloom.
Phalaenopsis after flowering.
Usually, after flowering, the faded arrow dries out, and it is cut. But sometimes the peduncle continues to be green, and here you have to decide how to proceed. You can:
- - do not touch the peduncle,
- - trim the peduncle to the height of the branching,
- - prune the green spike in general.
If you cut the green peduncle, put it in the water, and it is likely that it will baby. If you did not cut off the old arrow, then side branches may appear on it, on which flowers will appear over time, but flowering will not be as abundant as on new peduncles.
In addition to diseases, phalaenopsis and pests are debilitated. For example, a small insect such as a mealybug is the cause of yellowing and falling leaves. It is destroyed by treating the leaves and stems with an aqueous solution of soap.
Spider mite, which affects any plant with insufficient air humidity, can also harm phalaenopsis. The tick expresses its presence by a silver spider web on the leaves, as if it had been pricked with a needle. If you find a spider mite at the very beginning of the occupation of the plant, you can remove it, like an aphid and worm, with soapy water, but if it has gone far and the pest has firmly settled on your orchid, you will have to use acaricides to fight it.
Sometimes thrips infect phalaenopsis leaves and flowers, covering them with brown spots. You have to fight them with an aktellik or another systemic insecticide (hostakvik, izatrinom), but it is best to use a less toxic fitoderm.
If you find tubercles on the leaves of phalaenopsis, be aware that your flower was chosen by shchitovki, which will suck the juice from the orchid, as a result of which it will begin to wilt. Do the same with the shields as you would do with the b heart: twice a week with a soap solution.
Phalaenopsis gets the worst from slugs, since these rather large creatures simply eat leaves, stalks and even orchid flowers. Put a few pieces of carrot or cucumber on the ground and wait until the slug appears to drag off the vegetable, and remove it from the flower. If you cannot physically assemble slugs, use insecticides like metaldehyde or mezurol.
Despite the aforementioned troubles, phalaenopsis are among the least problematic orchids, which, with proper care, are rarely subjected to insect raids or infection by some kind of disease. As a rule, they live and bloom in the conditions of a city apartment happily for the joy of a caring owner and enjoy themselves. The main thing to learn is the happy owner of an orchid: balanced watering of phalaenopsis, sufficient illumination, verified temperature conditions and timely feeding will make his orchid not only a beautiful flowering plant, but also completely invulnerable to pests and diseases.
Rules for foliar fertilizing
- Fine spray with a nutrient solution carefully sprayed both sides of the leaflets,
- foliar dressing is carried out in the morning, in the evening or in cloudy weather,
- root and foliar feeding cannot be carried out simultaneously,
- Do not allow the nutrient solution to reach the growth point of the orchid. The plant may die due to rotting and dying points of growth. These fertilizers are advisory in nature and can be replaced by more modern drugs.